Some "captain obvious" questions

[Artemis]

Well, let me first preface my questions by saying that while I am verging on purchasing my first snake, I am not stranger to keeping exotic animals. For many years now, I have kept fishtanks, currently maintaining several, including my prized saltwater reef tank. I have also kept a number of other animals, including lizards, birds, dogs, cats and insects. I do understand the commitment, necessary attention to detail, and importance of being properly informed when it comes to keeping exotic animals.

So, given those things, I have been reading all I can find on pythons and snakes in general. A lot of the information is VERY conflicting, so I must turn to the voice of experience (i.e. you all =) to give me the accurate answers.

1. Speed- How fast can pythons (specifically the Ball Python) actually go. I am the kind of person who would want to socialize the snake and occasionally cart him around the house with me, perhaps even venturing outdoors for some fresh air if it is warm enough. But, if pythons are too quick, then that might be a bad idea. Thoughts on this?

2. Housing size- Being a fish enthusiast, I have a number of empty tanks in varying sizes. The smallest being a standard 10g tank, the largest being a 55g tank. If I bought a hatchling, my intention would be to merely switch his living environments they were outgrown, ultimately housing him in the 55 at adult size. Some articles I have read insist that this is too large, while others feel it is the minimum requirement for a full grown ball python (4' - 5') Is it better to err on the smaller or larger end?

3a. Feeding- Make way for Captain obvious here. Feeding seems to be the one thing you can find the most information about. I have determined that I will feed my snake outside of his enclosure, providing he will take food that way. I agree with the logic behind it, and I do want to try to minimize my risk of being bitten. However, most people who remove their snakes for feeding place them in a box or container, from what I have seen often with no lid. Then they use some measly 8 inch tongs to give the snake its meal. ( I have also decided on pre-killed food, which is readily available at my supplier). So the question part is, if a snake is in "feeding frenzy" mode, and in the box where he is typically fed, then what stops him from lunging at you and biting you when you approach with the food? I guess in my mind, a set of 8 inch tongs dont really offer much comfort.

3b. Once the snake is finished eating, how long do you wait before removing him from his "feeding area" and returning him to his enclosure? I know you are not supposed to handle snakes for a day or so after feeding them. But I dont want to go to return him to his cage and have him think he should be striking at his second course. Should I use a snake hook?

4. Security- I have found in my quest for info a number of sites that detail the accidents, deaths and injuries associated with snake ownership. In terms of the python, it is typically the larger pythons (reticulated and burmese) that everyone seems to get themselves in trouble with, but having both a child and 3 cats, I fear that if the python were ever to get out (in the night when we are all asleep) that my cats would be dead meat and my chil d would be at risk. So, needless to say, ensuring the python stays in his enclosure would be my responsibility. How strong are pythons, and have any of you ever had an escape from what you thought was an escape proof enclosure?

4. Bites- While I understand that your snake should not be biting you unless its your own fault, I suspect I wont be able to get through the lifetime of a snake without it ever happening. So how bad is it, painwise? I would worry that i might injure the snake, or myself further, our of sheer reaction, though being the tattoo queen, and having had children, I can say with no uncertainty that I have a pretty high pain threshold. Also, how does one go about getting the snake to let go. I have read everything from pressure just below its head, to dropping whiskey at the bite site near its lips, to allowing it to hang there and let gravity help you out. Tell me all your "old sailor" bite stories!! =)

Thanks for all your help. I am enjoying reading the other threads and learning as much as I can. Sorry for the "Captain Obvious" questions, but I would rather hear all your thoughts on this stuff than learn the hard way =). I know that they are long and verbose and stuff- sorry, I just write that way. Hopefully a couple of you will still wade through them for me.

Thanks

Artemis

[JonD]

I always feed in the enclosure, there is no way I want a snake to think that everytime I bring he/she out it's feeding time. ;)

[Artemis]

Wow, yeah see that makes sense too. Unless the only time you would bring it out would be to feed. I think the logic behind feeding OUT of the enclosures was similar, you dont want the snake to think that its getting fed when you are really just opening the lid to take it out.

It is true that care sheets dispute this as well, just like the whole live vs. prekilled thing.

Have you ever been struck at when you opened the top? I know the hand washing and not smelling like food thing is probably a pretty big key, too. So that aside, have you any problems taking out your python?

Thanks for responding =)

Artemis

[Drew S]

I always feed in the enclosure also. I just figure that moving them out, feeding, and then putting them back in only gives added stress.

I've never been bitten by any of my ball pythons, or any of my snakes for that matter (except hatchlings, which don't count) while feeding this way.

As long as you don't smell like a mouse, then a bite from a feeding response isn't likely to happen. Taking them out to feed just gives them extra chances to tag you. Especially when moving them back into their enclosure when they're in feeding mode.

But, when it comes down to it, it's best to do whatever makes you the most comfortable.

And as for pain, a BP bite isn't anything to worry about. I've been bit by other peoples before and it's just like a cat scratch, and rarely bleeds much...just little pin holes.

[Artemis]

Thanks thats all very good to know. Feeding them in the enclosure certianly gets bonus points for being easier. Thanks for the input.

What about speed and house size?

Artemis

[fredyfidget]

OK.
1. bp's are relitvly slow moving animals but their not a animal to be handled everyday. They stress very easily w/ to much handleing and can cuase feedinng problems. Anyway there nocturnal animals just like most snnakes. There not like a farret or puppy you can walk. Most snakes, to be honest, hate being hanndled they just learn to tolerate it.
2. They could live in a 20- 30 gal. tank minimuim for the rest of there lives. But a 40 or 50 will do just fine.
3. after they eat leave them in ther feeding inclosure for maybe 40- 60 mins. the least. Then put the bp back in it's regular tank and leave him alone for 24-48 hours before handling so food can be properly digested and to prevent regurgitation. If you don't do this your bp might bite you. to the othe rpart of your question; first wash your hands of any rodent scent you might have on your hands. When removing him don't make sudden movements and make sure he can see you coming to pick him up. You could use a hook but i never used one and still haven't gotton bit.lol
4. Ours escaped as a baby but all it did was hide behind the oven. But now to your question, bp are strong for there size. It depends on how big your cats r but i wouldn't really worry about that as long as your bp stays well fed. closee your child's room door if your afraid of them gooing in the room at night. Usually when bp's get out of there cage they usually explore not hunt. Anyway they have terrible vision.
5. I have never really been biten to be honest but i have heard from other people that snakes under three feet don't really break skin and as a hatchlings it is really more like a scratch then a bite.

i hope this helped you. But if you want more and better info. go to clay english red tail boa forum.

[Artemis]

Let me clarify, Fredy, I dont wan't an "accessory snake." Working 70 hours a week, I wouldnt be able to hold it ALL the time. But I would like to take it out enough (and into enough unique locations) that it would be a very calm and sociable snake. I know that will also largely depend on the snake itself, but our local supplier breeds them in-house, and they are handled and carted about regularly by the employees, from a very young age. I would like a snake social enough that I could share it with Children. Thats another thing that has fascinated me in my recent reading, the snakes in schools and the other "educational" snakes. Given that all snakes have teeth and the potential to bite, it amazes me that they can take them into school and let the children hold and touch them, without having to sign somekind of waiver ;) But with my daughter being so young, it would be cool to be able to take my python to her school and help dispel some of the societal fears of snakes kids are brought up with.

Thanks for all the pointers =)

Artemis

[dcboas]

Education is always the best way in any situation.A bp can be a very social snake and a good bonus is that they are slow growers.Most of what you learn is going to come from experience and of course from places like this where you can get first hand advice .

[lostwithin]

Hey, I’ll just do this in point form it'll save allot of senseless babbling,

1. Ball pythons are what I would consider slow animals, (unless they are swimming, a warning incase they do get into water which I wouldn’t suggest), if what your worried about is it taking off one you when you put it down or something, that’s not going too happen. Just make sure there are no cracks around, that’s when you get into trouble, if they can get there head through they will get there bodies in and get jammed into anything once they are in you wont be able too force them out.

2. My big female ball is in a 4' aquarium, probably about 75-100 gallons? I’m not sure what size it is, and I wouldn’t put her in any less, yes she could live in less but she’s over 4' and I believe the bigger the better when it comes too cages, so I'd go with the 55 once its older, good rule of thumb if make a cage at LEAST 1/2 the animals length long bye 1/3 of its length wide. Bigger wont hurt an adult; it may stress out a younger animal.

3. For feeding don’t change enclosures, especially with a ball, I wouldn’t suggest handling the python for at least a day before eating and about 3 days after. (Too avoid problems and regurging). Ball pythons tend too be very shy, and picky eaters. Feeding will be much easier if done in its enclosure just bye placing the food item in front of whatever hides the snakes in. As for not feeling secure while your ball is small you’ll learn how too read them, when they are going too strike food how they do it, you’ll quickly learn there’s nothing too be worried about.

4. Security, well, a ball python isn’t going too kill anyone, not even the nastiest one in the world could kill a person, as for cats, unless they are kittens not even a LARGE adult ball would try too eat one. I would be more concerned on what your cat/s might do too a snake, mine eye my snakes non stop at times, a cat could easily kill a snake. And most of the stories you hear about larger pythons are used for scare tactics it does happen, and a large burm wont hesitate too eat a cat, and is quite capable of killing a full grown man, but so is a dog.

5. Bites, well as for the "old sailor stories" I have none in 6 years of snake keeping I have yet too be bitten, and the last snake I’d be worried about would be my ball, they tend too cower and curl up (hence the name) do almost anything but bite if they feel threatened, and with a feeding there is always a chance, but only if your careless which wont happen while your nervous, but bye the time your ball gets big enough for you too care about bites I doubt you’ll be nervous any more. Just don’t smell like food and move your hand around in front of it at the same time and you should be fine. Feeding in a separate enclosure would also increase the chances of this, I wouldn’t want too be reaching into a cage too pick up a just feed ball while the place still smells of rat. That’s asking for it.

Good luck,
Devon

[Artemis]

thanks Devon, those are very helpful answers! My cats are all big spoiled sissies, and the one room they are not allowed in is my downstairs room, which houses my brand new sectional sofa (I wont declaw them, but I am not handing the sofa too them.) this works out well because I would keep the snake down there, and there is a door at the top of the stairwell where I can keep reptile and kitty safely separate. My cats, with the exception of my one kitty who thinks she is a fisherman, have never killed any of my fish, but are, like all cats, curious!

Thanks again for all the terrific advice!

Artemis

[lostwithin]

Thanks I was glad I could help, and my cats are the same, Only one of mine shows any interest in the reptiles, And he LOVES them His favorite spot is on my ball pythons cage, it has a very solid top he lays on it and watches her moving around all night, the combination of a snake moving around and a heated sleeping spot is a cat magnet.
Devon