THanks

[doobie]

hey guys thanks.. for writing back >> hes doing ok and has been eating a little .. but yea i guess he has to get used to everything.. his basking spot is 110 and then theres a 90deggree spot like not far from it .. also his cool area is 80-85 .. it goes down to about 75 degrees at night but he has an under tank heater under his hide log were he goes under at night.. also i have done alot of research and i know they get to about 5 feet 6 feet .. iv had lizards before but this is my first monitor.. and i dont think hes sick i think hes just scared lol .. ill let u guys know more...
Thanks

[SHvar]

"also i have done alot of research and i know they get to about 5 feet 6 feet .. iv had lizards before but this is my first monitor"

Interesting, youve never researched anything on basking spots, temps or anything else but youve done alot of research and know how big they can get. First, they grow from 4-7ft and are very strong animals and escape artists. They eat alot when healthy, and grow very fast. Now as for basking spots the surface of the basking spot should have an area that is from 130-165+ degrees, that hot spot should be at least big enough to put their Snout To Vent length in it or larger. Ambient temps or air temps, this is the temp that needs to range from 86 or around at the basking spot to 68-75 at the far end of the cage, this is called a temp gradient, its needed to properly thermoregulate as the animal needs to heat up and cool down when it wants to, therefore leading to why monitors owners etc use 24/7 basking lights (no timers etc), besides it gets your temps set right until a major climate change like summer comes, and allows the animal (most importantly) to be able to bask and live on its schedule not on our schedules from day/ night drops. I keep all of my monitors and my bearded dragons in very very similar conditions. Next, and very importantly you will need a digable substrate that holds moisture and allows the monitor to prevent moisture loss, and to assist in thermoregulation, ie deep dirt, monitors love to dig. When they are small and questionable health or appetite its good to keep them in something with a bit less depth to it but still offer hide spots to escape the heat as light doesnt bother them. They also need a constant supply of clean drinking water, soaking water can help if the animal enjoys doing so but if kept in a proper substrate with depth etc doesnt need a soaking dish.
As for foods they are best and cheapest fed on whole animals such as rodents, chickens, quails, roaches, crickets etc, with insects being dusted with a good quality calcium supplement and being fed as with other foods a good healthy diet.
This is some of the basic info that should be found by a little research and questioning. Daniel Bennet has a good book on monitor care in captivity even if its about bosc monitors its the best on all species in captivity, Rob Fausts nile monitor book is a good one, and King and Greens is good to understand the needs and reasons for some of those things from their biology.
Of course anytime some people have time to answer specific questions for you its good also help understand these wonderful animals.

[doobie]

Originally posted by SHvar
"also i have done alot of research and i know they get to about 5 feet 6 feet .. iv had lizards before but this is my first monitor"

Interesting, youve never researched anything on basking spots, temps or anything else but youve done alot of research and know how big they can get. First, they grow from 4-7ft and are very strong animals and escape artists. They eat alot when healthy, and grow very fast. Now as for basking spots the surface of the basking spot should have an area that is from 130-165+ degrees, that hot spot should be at least big enough to put their Snout To Vent length in it or larger. Ambient temps or air temps, this is the temp that needs to range from 86 or around at the basking spot to 68-75 at the far end of the cage, this is called a temp gradient, its needed to properly thermoregulate as the animal needs to heat up and cool down when it wants to, therefore leading to why monitors owners etc use 24/7 basking lights (no timers etc), besides it gets your temps set right until a major climate change like summer comes, and allows the animal (most importantly) to be able to bask and live on its schedule not on our schedules from day/ night drops. I keep all of my monitors and my bearded dragons in very very similar conditions. Next, and very importantly you will need a digable substrate that holds moisture and allows the monitor to prevent moisture loss, and to assist in thermoregulation, ie deep dirt, monitors love to dig. When they are small and questionable health or appetite its good to keep them in something with a bit less depth to it but still offer hide spots to escape the heat as light doesnt bother them. They also need a constant supply of clean drinking water, soaking water can help if the animal enjoys doing so but if kept in a proper substrate with depth etc doesnt need a soaking dish.
As for foods they are best and cheapest fed on whole animals such as rodents, chickens, quails, roaches, crickets etc, with insects being dusted with a good quality calcium supplement and being fed as with other foods a good healthy diet.
This is some of the basic info that should be found by a little research and questioning. Daniel Bennet has a good book on monitor care in captivity even if its about bosc monitors its the best on all species in captivity, Rob Fausts nile monitor book is a good one, and King and Greens is good to understand the needs and reasons for some of those things from their biology.
Of course anytime some people have time to answer specific questions for you its good also help understand these wonderful animals. True .. thanks .. hes a baby now though..

[Bartman]

great info shvar!

Id also suggest reading a great book by ravi thakoordyal and daniel bennet called The Savannah Monitor Lizard. Its a great read, and has tons of info on both wild and "domesticated" sav's. Very realiable info

[reptiguy123]

And don't worry about the light being on all the time... with their burrows, they won't be able to see the light-the heat is the important thing.