Mustangrde1
04-02-04, 10:54 AM
Yes much of this is old articles I wrote with some new stuff thrown in.
I have been thinking lately that people are always asking questions or wanting help before they get in to Hots. Instead of sending them to a million threads on websites I thought perhaps with some of the great articles that have been written by members we could put them all in one neat thread for all to see. So Come on guys and gals paste your good stuff here for a single community resource for all.
Before you purchase a first hot.
When you think about keeping hots what leads you to this? Did you just watch someone on TV go out and grab one? Did you see one in a magazine? Were you just at a zoo or animal exhibit?
If you just watched someone on TV handling one and think you can probably do the same because it did not look very hard, keep in mind there are tricks these showmen use to create safety. Such as chilling the snake in a cooler first or possibly using a venomous {animals that has had its venom glands removed} maybe even injecting the animal with low doses of a sedative. An animal handler on the TV has a film crew and safety crew standing by at all times in case of emergency. You will not have that luxury in your own house working with a venomous reptile. You will not be able to chill the animal before doing simple maintenance of the animal nor will you be able to use a sedative to put it to sleep before working with it. If you keep these Highly Dangerous reptiles you must be able to work with them truly hot.
If you were thumbing through a magazine and found some very beautiful pictures remember this was more then likely done by a professional photographer looking for the right pose the right light the right backdrop and setting. The photographer possibly was a trained handler and knew proper use of handling equipment, so they could manipulate the animal with safety and patients to get the right perfect shot on film.
Were you just at a Zoo? The animals in Zoo collections are babied and pampered beyond belief they have an entire staff of highly trained biologist, scientist, dietitians and handlers working with them daily to be certain all their needs are met.
All the above are persons who have training to some degree with venomous reptiles and understand the risk in working with them and take some degree of precautions before handling/working with these animals. Understanding the animal and its reaction in a circumstance is very important in any species you work with. More so however when dealing with any species that has the potential to disfigure you or worse kill you. Face it a corn snake or ball python is not likely to kill you or force surgeons to open you up to relieve swelling from a bite causing you to have a permanent disfiguring scar or a bite that goes necrotic and eats away part of your flesh. Yes, this can and if the right species bites you will happen.
All that said before you even get a hot you should invest in a quality secure cage for the animal something that can be locked and is escape proof. Glass aquariums with screen tops can be modified yes but have very obvious dangers large fangs can make it through the screen and give you a very nasty surprise. How will you safely open the lid? What precautions need you take to find the animals location? Plastic tubs are good but a misplaced finger under the lid will get you bit as well. Some of these are not very see through so how will you find the animal before opening? Commercial plastic cages with sliding glass or lift up glass are preferred for your safety but again they have draw backs such as lips usually above the slider where snakes can hide and surprise you. If you have a very elaborate set up how will you verify exactly where the animal is hiding? These are all things you need to take in to consideration when thinking about caging and the species you will keep. Snakes love to hide and you need to be able to find them and probing around with your hand is probably not the best idea.
Watering is part of daily maintenance and you need to think about how you can do it safely. Using an oil funnel is great to keep you a safe distance but how do you get the bowl out for cleaning? Feeding is another issue where you may possibly come in to contact with Mr. Fangs. Will you feed live or prekilled? Live has the potential to harm or kill your animal if left in and the animal doesn't feed. A large rat can kill or wound a snake. Prekilled is great to prevent that but if the animal doesn't feed then you need to remove the prey or if it regurges. How will you safely remove it?
Some species when small need to be fed by using long hemostats. Do you have the patience to sit there and tease feed the animal till it eats? Do you have the stomach to brain a pinkie to get the animal to feed? Even in the best captive born animals this may need to be done. Import animals are another all together different monster. Imports can come in severely dehydrated and loaded with parasites. How will you clean these animals up? Do you have the medical knowledge to do it? Do you know what drugs can be safely used to treat them? If not do you know of a vet that will take a hot under his care? Can you overcome the stress they have already been put under and get them to even feed? Do you have a source for natural types of prey remember not all feed on rodents.
Cage cleaning is always a fun time. How do you plan to get in the cage and clean it safely? Reptiles do defecate and it needs to be cleaned up and if you ever seen a cobra tank it¡¦s a full cage cleaning and the animal needs to come out. How will you remove the animal? Where will you put it? How will you secure it after it¡¦s removed? How will you get it back in after the cage is clean?
OK say your heart is set on getting one ask yourself all this and be honest with yourself {Can You Give It ALL Its Needs} if the answer is NO do not get it. When you take on the responsibility of having an animal YOU are responsible for doing everything in your power to insure its health and well being while in your care. Do you honestly have the knowledge and comfort level within yourself to work with these animals safely? Are you getting a venomous to show off to friends and family or tell your friends and family I have a Cobras or Mamba or Rattler etc. If so then do not get one SHOWING OFF gets you dead or others.
For your first hot you need to take in to consideration the availability of antivenom! If you¡¦re in California for example what's the odds of them having antivenom for a species not native to that area? Keep an animal you know is native to your area at least if you get bit you have a piece of mind that you can be treated properly. Do you know what hospital has AV. and have you talked to the doctors or staff to find out if they know how to treat the bite? Do you have a protocol for a bite? What numbers do you have for contacts in the event of a bite? If your hospital does not carry AV. where are they and you going to get it?
Now you have been given a few questions to answer. If you decide to proceed you must take financial needs in to the equation now. Cage cost $50.00 to $600.00 substrate cost $3.00 to $20.00 water bowl cost $1.00 to $20.00 Lighting $15.00 to $50.00 food cost per year $65.00 to $208.00 that figure is for 1 small mouse at $1.25 to a large rat at $4.00 a week keep in mind its in my opinion a very low number Snake $35.00 to $2000.00. Those are all minimal cost numbers I didn't not factor in even for Hooks, Tongs, Tubes, Hemostats, electric bill or water bill. Some states require permits so add on that cost. The food bill reminds me if you have snakes with very high metabolism you better triple that cost.
The best advice is not to buy a venomous on impulse or because you want to show off. Do yourself a favor find an experience hot keeper in your area and get trained to handle the species you wish to own. Learn proper safety tool usage. Take the time to research the animal¡¦s natural habitat and climatic conditions it lives in. Be prepared to provide the animal with to the best of your ability everything it needs to live a full and stress free life in captivity.
There are a lot of question above to think hard and long venomous reptiles should never be taken lightly and I am not going to give the answers these are things every person who reads this and is thinking about getting in to hots needs to research and answer themselves. Maybe in doing so it will dissuade some and make some better and more prepared for that first hot.
Training is something I always stress and believe whole heartedly in.
Many things arise that only someone with hands on experience and years of knowledge of a species can truly help you prepare for. The knowledge of the experienced keeper past on to the pupil is just as valuable as every hook or tong or tube. More important as it can prepare you for the unforeseen signs of an eminent strike or at very least the warning signs.
With training in mind.
Welcome to Hot Elementary School
Kindergarten: This is your beginning in hot keeping - Day One of training for keeping of venomous reptiles when you get acquainted with the tools of the trade. The snake hooks come in all shapes and sizes from little collapsible that are no more than 6 inches to massive python hooks up to 8 feet long. Snake probes that look like your mothers knitting needless. Snake tubes, plastic tubes for placing snakes in for safe handling that look more suitable for holding paper towels or toilet paper then putting snakes in. Tongs for grabbing snakes that make you think you're picking up trash in a park rather then picking up snakes. If you thought on day one you would be handling the animals, think again. You have to be good at the tools of the trade and comfortable with them on nonvenomous snakes before getting close to the real animals.
First Grade: Your trainer says, "Are you ready for some fun today?" Your eyes are bright and bulging starring at the hot room, and dreams of working with venomous snakes are bouncing through your head. Your teacher tells you that the ball python cages are dirty and need cleaning as do all the other nonvenomous animals. Your heart sinks and your nose curls as you realize that this is not going to be a quick deal to work with venomous but a long slow process where you will be putting in your dues.
Your teacher walks out with you and says that every cage needs to be cleaned and every animal needs to be treated as though it were HOT. You must use the proper tools to safely remove them out of the cage and place them in a safety container. Then you must clean the cages and replace the animal using the same safety procedures. At this point you're thinking, "I am this guy's slave just for cleaning cages and am never going to get to handle the venomous I want to."
Second Grade: After several weeks of working under the supervision of your trainer cleaning ball python cages, you hear him / her say OK today we work with the hots. Your heart stops, your eyes bulge and you think, "Finally I get to work with them." He walks toward the hot room, you hot on his heels and he stops you at the door and says you stand here. He then walks in and opens a cobra's cage. You are thinking all right my turn's coming, and he says here go clean this cage and repaper it.
Back to cage cleaner you go. All day long you repeat this procedure watching him over and over again removing the animals himself you wish to work with and handing you the cage to clean. This goes on for several weeks with you watching him handling. You are thinking, "Why did I even want to learn from this guy," or "Why do I even want to be here if I can't handle the snakes myself. I am just a cage cleaner for this person but hey, at least I get to see the snakes."
Third Grade: Finally after several months of cage cleaning you walk in and he says, "Sit down, we need to talk." You are wondering what is going on what have I done wrong my teacher looks so serious and is wanting to have a sit down, there goes my training, I have pissed him off or something. He says, "OK Joe/Jane. What have you learned in the last few months?" You pause and think, you say well I have learned how to use tongs and hooks so many times cleaning cages that they are like an appendage of my own body. I have learned how to get the snakes out of their cages without getting bit. I can smell a dirty tank at 50 paces or a regurge at 100 yards.
Your trainer says, "OK have you been bit since you started using the tools here or at home?" You think No, I no longer just reach in to a cage without thinking.
Your trainer asks, "Are your own cages kept cleaner now?" You think yes they are I can now smell them when they are dirty and IM more alert to cleaning them on site also.
Your trainer asks, "Do you just open cages now without looking first?" You stop and think no, I now look for the animal in all cages before opening. Congratulations Mr. Cage Cleaner - without your knowledge your trainer broke the bad habits that could have gotten you killed. You now look before opening a cage. You now use the proper tools for handling. You now pay more attention to what you are about to do instead of just reaching in and grabbing the animal.
Your keeper says, "OK today we need to sex some animals. Today you get some hands on training." You¡¦re thinking to yourself hot dog I get to get some animals out and probe them and handle them. As you and your trainer walk towards the door he stops you again and says wait here. He walks in the room and opens up an Eastern diamondback's cage and hooks the animal out. You're thinking that it's very dangerous for two people to be in the room he is going to bring it out here for me to work with. As you watch in disbelief as he manipulates it in to a tube and then picks it up and says, "OK go ahead and probe it".
Fourth Grade: Well, now you are at least getting to touch the venomous reptiles even though you have probably probed many snakes of your own. You watch your trainer get out many snakes for probing. You see him carefully open the boxes/cages they are in, being sure to keep his body parts away from the strike range of the animals. You watch him take his time with the animals to manipulate them into the tubes. After doing this for some time he says to you OK come in the room. You are thinking, "OK now I'm going to what sweep the floor mop it maybe or get clean some of the empty cages. After all I am The Great Cage Cleaner." You're thinking, "Man, I have been doing this for 4 months now and the closest I get is to their poop or the poop shoot." When out of the blue your trainer says OK open that box up over there it's all yours.
Your eyes light up, your heart jumps a beat, you're thinking, "Finally I GET TO GET ONE OUT." You go over to the box and open it up as your trainer says how did the bite on your finger feel because you stuck your fingers under the lid when opening. You look at him and say "I did not get bit." He says look in the box and you see its empty except for a plastic snake and your thinking "What the hell." You look at your trainer and realize he fooled you! Or did he? He said how did the bite feel and you realize that you did put your fingers under the lid and had it been real you would have been bitten. You let your emotion and anxiousness get you in trouble. You realize that had it been real you would now be on your way to the hospital. You just received a very valuable lesson in never getting ahead of yourself because you¡¦re so eager to see or work with an animal. The animal is not going anyplace so there is never a reason for you not to take things slow and meticulous with deliberate actions and purpose.
Fifth Grade: You¡¦re come in after that major eye opening experience and are wondering what is going to be next. I really blew it with that cage opening I could have been bit. I didn't look first to see where the animal was. I didn't use proper technique in opening the cage. I was too excited about getting to work with the animal and broke every rule I had learned. You trainer looks at you and says what are you thinking about as he sees your thinking hard. You tell him and he says, "You are now starting to show the maturity and thought needed to see your own mistakes so you do not make them again." He tells you not to dwell on your mistakes but to learn from them now when they don't kill you.
He says OK, let¡¦s go back in the room. He points to a box and says it needs to be cleaned. You go over and look inside and see what appears to be a live snake in it, but the box is too cloudy to tell which species so you place it on a counter and pop the lid so it's still on but never opened. You then reach for a small hook and open it. You had on your mind the disaster from before and do not want to risk it again especially knowing there is a live snake in this box! As you use the hook to open the box lid you see what appears to be Lataste's Viper "Vipera latastei". You are in heaven - finally I get to work with a hot even if it's just the repetition of taking the animal out and placing it in a safety holding container to clean the cage. You reach in with the hook carefully remove the viper and place it in the hold container. You go about cleaning the cage and changing the water. Then you replace the snake in the container and put the lid back on. As you do it you feel a sharp pain and realize you had your fingers under the lip of the lid and have been bit.
You turn in a state of shock and look at your trainer and tell him you just got bit. He looks at you in a funny glare and says, "You were so excited to have been working with the animal you forgot that placing a lid on is just as dangerous as taking one off. Fortunately what you thought to be the Lataste's Viper was just a very nice Solomon's Island Ground Boa, Candoia ssp. One though that looks very similar to the deadly Lataste's Viper Vipera latastei."
Another important lesson learned today in patience and attentiveness. One that caused some pain and blood this time but at least it wasn't fatal.
Sixth Grade: You have learned now how to clean cages. You have learned from your mistakes that not being patient and not thinking ahead can be painful if not downright deadly. You need to look back over these last six months or so and think to yourself, is it worth it to proceed? Do I really want to work with animals that can with one mistake take my life or disfigure me? At this point in your training you have learned much, you realize there is more to keeping venomous reptiles then just sticking them in a cage and throwing in food once in a while. After reflection of what you have seen and learned you still want to proceed with your training. You know there is no substitute for safety and awareness of your surroundings and that you must always maintain a calm and collected train of thought about what your doing, never letting emotions dictate how you handle or work with the animals. Just like in School you have to learn, sometimes learning is not fun and sometimes it is.
Looking back over your grade school introduction to venomous reptiles, you have learned the very basics of which you probably already had some knowledge. How to use a hook, how to use tongs, how to use tubes, how to clean cages. But now your trainer has forced you to use the tools more than you ever would have for your own collection of nonvenomous reptiles. He/She has taught you safety through repetition. Having a hook in your hand is now just an extension of your own hand. You are so comfortable with a hook or tong that is second nature. Your nose has developed into a sharply tuned crap smeller. Your eyes have become safety tools for noticing things out of place or out of the ordinary. Your brain now thinks about all places in a cage an animal can use to hide from sight before you open it. Safety is always on your mind. You have learned all these things but more importantly you have developed a more mature understanding of the animals and yourself. Congratulations - the elementary levels have been learned.
The Middle School
Seventh Grade: Today you walk in and your trainer says it's time for you to get to know the hot room. He says, "Go on in and I will be there in a moment". You have learned from the past that training is never as simple as that. You open the door and look in and see on the floor a box that looks like a lid was popped open. What do you do? The box could have had a snake in it and now it's out! You err on the side of caution and tell your trainer about what you just observed. He says, "Good, I'm glad you didn't go in the room although I did place it there to see your reaction." So now the two of you go in and he says, "Today we go over the basics of a hot room."
First thing is to make certain all cages are of a locking nature or secured to prevent escapes. The room itself should be completely escape proof with a locking door and any vents should be screened to prevent escape. You should know where all tools you need are located at all times and the floor kept clear of debris as well as the counter tops. All the cages should be properly marked and labeled as to what species are in them. An emergency protocol book should be handy and all emergency numbers posted. Emergency lighting set up in case of a power outage. Your trainer asks you to familiarize yourself with everything in the room. He then hands you the protocol book for you to see what's in it. A list of all species that is kept is list in this book along with the species is where they are from what their habitat is, their prey, and importantly the type of antivenin needed in case of a bite along with where to obtain it. All the phone numbers of other keepers in your area are listed as well as Miami Dade Fire Rescue and Poison Control. There are also papers in their on treatment for bites for each of the species kept. You notice a "DNR"order Do Not Resuscitate order and a living will. Also is the keeper¡¦s full medical records. All of these things are important to have in this book in the event of a bite. They will help the hospital in better treating a bite when it occurs.
My own DNR/LIVING WILL specifically states that I do not wish to be saved if I cannot live a high quality of life after a bite. I spelled out very specifically what I felt was quality of life. I do not wish to be a vegetable or burden on my spouse. I also states in there that only my wife and my best friend who is also a qualified paramedic and one of the finest snake keepers are to make any and all decisions on my medical care and wishes in the event I am not capable of making them. I know many hospitals are not qualified due to lack of understanding of snake bites to make these important determinations. And felt that it is best to leave those decisions in the qualified hands of people who understand venomous reptiles and what occurs post bite.
Now that you have done all this your trainer says, "We have a few cages need attention today." He pulls out some boxes and says, "OK your turn." You look around and see the animal at the far end of the cage and pop the lid and use a hook to lift it. Inside you see a small copperhead. You use your hook to remove the snake and place it in a secure container and clean its cage and water it and place a small hopper in. You then replace the snake and using the hook to slide the lid back on and push it down to secure it. You move on to the next cage and the next cage the same way checking each one first. Finally you're working with venomous species. Though they are small and relatively harmless copperheads at least you now getting hands on training. You are deep in concentration of what you're doing when you hear a crash from behind after you just put the last box away. What do you do?
As you turn you realize that the rack holding the black mambas just fell! 12 baby black mambas just hit the ground. Scary prospect isn't it? At this point instinct should hopefully take over. You grab a hook alongside your trainer and look to be certain all the containers are still intact and no shoestrings of death got out. Yes, it was nerve wracking but all is OK and no escapes happened. This is a very valuable lesson in calm and taking in what happened what needs to be done and how important it is that when working in a hot room to know your surroundings and tool placement and where other persons are. Inside that room your life and that of any person in it is in your hands.
Eighth Grade: A joyful time! Many new specimens have just arrived and they need to be unpacked. Unlike when you're at home and get in new animals these are venomous and deadly. So no reaching in with your hands. Your trainer explains to you that when you open each crate you must be very careful as snakes might have escaped their bags. You open each box up and carefully with a hook move bags around to insure no escapes. Your trainer then uses a pair of tongs to carefully remove each bag and place it on a counter top. He tells you to prepare cages and fill a trash can with some water. You ask him why the trash can with water. He explains these animals need to soak and get rehydrated. After preparing the trash can and cages he pulls the bag flat with a pair of hemostats and places a hook securely between the knot and the snake and unties the bag. Then with the bag untied he uses two hemostats to pick up the bag and place it in the trash can to allow the animal to go directly in. Wow, a Cobra. After letting the animal soak it's time to put it in the cage and put him away. Remember to label the cage so you know it's a cobra or whatever species.
On to the next bag - it's obviously a heavy bodied animal that is huffing and puffing. You watch your trainer perform the same procedure with the hemostats and hook, then see the bag jump and two very large fangs blow through the bag. You realize that had a part of anyone's body been on it they would now be envenomated by a viper. After the shock of what has happened your trainer dumps it in the trash can to soak and you see this outstanding Gaboon Viper. It should settle in how deadly this animal is and what would have happened had it bitten you through the bag. Though bags offer some protection a snake can and will bite through one and unfortunately people have been bit during this very dangerous time of unpacking animals.
Ninth Grade: After the day before and the mental and visual lessons you just learned, with the knowledge someday you will be the one having to do these exact same procedures as yourself, you ask yourself again, "Is it worth it to keep venomous?"
Today the animals are going to be medicated and inspected for external parasites and quarantined from the general population. This is a very dangerous day as you know that oral medications mean dealing with the business end of the animals. You and your trainer are in the room and he/she is getting out the animals for proper medications to be administered. You watch as he pins a cobra and inserts a tube in its mouth as it chomps down on the tube and venom starts flowing his fingers only inches from those fangs and a sure bite with one slip. He/She moves on to the Gaboon viper pinning the head and as he lifts the snake it bites down, sending its own fangs through its bottom jaw. The fangs miss his finger by millimeters. This is one of the nasty things a viper can do and improper placement of a finger will get you bit as sure as the sun rises in the east.
One hundred percent concentration is needed for dealing with animals on this level and an understanding of proper handling. It should be said that unless it is absolutely needed NEVER handle a venomous reptiles with your hands.
Quarantine time! Many people have asked me about quarantines, so I thought I would share what works for me. Hope it helps. This is the method I have found to work best for the safety of myself and well being of my animals. Remember a new animal that is not QUARANTINED can bring in unwanted pests and diseases that can be fatal to your entire collection. Remember NEVER under any circumstances place a new arrival in the general population of your other animals. This is very tempting for most people to due but the contagiousness of certain viruses that reptiles can spread to one another it can prove fatal to not only the carrier species but also other species in your collection. Also if an animal has external parasites such as mites or ticks these parasites do have legs and will travel to other members of your collection thus infesting the entire collection.
First thing I want to say is remember to wash your hands before and after you handle the new arrival for both your protection and the protection of the animal. I always clean my hands with an antibacterial soap first then rinse with water then re-rinse with Alcohol. I also use surgical gloves for handling the new arrival.
Step 1 Arrival. Inspect the container the animal has arrived in for mites, ticks and any other external parasites. If any external parasites are present in the container it is safe to assume they are definitely on the animal. At this point I would take the animal out and put it directly in to a plastic container and throw out all the packaging material in an outside trash can. Also spray the trash can with some type of bug spray that is formulated to be nontoxic to snakes. After the container has been disposed of I would take the snake and run warm water over it, rubbing the animal as to remove as many parasites as possible. After thoroughly rinsing the animal place it in clean bag and begin setting up its container.
For an animal that has been confirmed to have parasites I suggest using a product such as "Provent A Mite". This can be purchased online or at a pet shop that specializes in reptiles. I have found it best to spray the entire container and lid and allow to set for 10 minutes. Then place clean newspaper in the bottom and lightly spray again. Allow 10 more minutes to pass then place the water bowl and reptile in.
Step 2 Inspection. Inspect the animal for any crust around the cloacae and mucus around the mouth. If any crust or mucus is found it can be a sign of health problems. At this point it is best to get the animal directly to a vet for treatment. BE SURE TO KEEP ALL MEDICAL RECORDS. I will explain why later.
Step 3 Vet visit. Place the snake in a new clean bag and take to a veterinarian. Do this regardless if the animal looks healthy upon arrival. There can be problems that only a vet can detect through diagnostic tests or his knowledge of reptiles.
Step 4 Housing. After the vet has given the snake a clean bill of health take the animal and put it in a sterile plastic box with paper for substrate. Again I still recommend using the "Provent o Mite" just in case the animal had parasitic eggs that were missed.
Step 5 Feeding. On the 7th day feed the animal. I advise waiting the 7 days as to allow the animal to acclimate and adjust to its new environment and settle from any stresses the animal may have had. Feedings will of course vary on animal and species so a best rule is to use your knowledge of the species you are working with.
Step 6 Vet Checkup. On the 30th day take the snake to the Vet for another health check. Again keep all records of these transactions. Remember you must clean the tank and water bowl every day of the quarantine period. I always use the 90 day quarantine method for safety and health of my collection. I suggest using a dishwasher for the cleaning of the quarantine tank, water bowl and food dish. I understand this seams to be an extreme amount of work and detail but if you have a large collection the cost of not being careful in monetary value can be in the thousands of dollars. Now think of the psychological impact on you and your family at the loss of a pet. In my opinion the cost and time taken to protect both you and your animal is well worth it in the long run. Keeping in mind these animals can lead a long and productive life if taken care of properly from day one.
Now as to why keep all vet records. It is sad to say but there are dishonest persons in the business of selling reptiles. If you do acquire an animal that has ANY problems immediately e-mail the person you purchased the animal from. Keep all records of E-mails from the original agreement to purchase to any problems you have had. If the person is reputable they should be willing to help you with the cost of your vet bill or credit you to purchases in the future. Keep in mind that just because they have a Terms of Service "TOS" does not mean you do not have recourse. Many states now have laws regarding selling animals not in good health. These are known as Lemon Laws and are enforceable. However in all fairness reptiles if not cared for can have health issues surface very rapidly at no fault of the seller. If you have a vet check immediately it will prevent most problems you may have if there are any signs of ill health. Again the same applies to pet shops if that is where you purchased from, despite some of them trying to tell you they have a NO refund or Health guarantee there are some legal precedents that you can use in certain states if they sold you a lemon. Also pet store employees are for the most part there to play with the animals and in many cases have little or no practical knowledge. Do your research first and do not let them tell you falsehoods or myths.
Reptiles if not cared for properly can and will go down hill fast. It is your obligation to them to know everything possible before even purchasing one. You must be able to also properly care for the animal once you have received it.
High School
Tenth Grade: Wow it's been 8 months of learning and seeing things that should make you stop and think a few hundred times if it's worth it to keep venomous reptiles. At this point you should be able to clean cages and work the tools like they have always been part of your body. You should have an instinct about you that warns of danger where the average person would not see it. You have developed a sense of awareness of your surroundings and a calm about you and deliberate action when working with the animals. You should be working now with the species you wish to own and reading about them constantly. Contacting other keepers and asking questions about the animal/animals. Your trainer should be instructing you on the fine points of the husbandry of the species.
Eleventh Grade: Time to start the homework. Setting up your hot room, getting your cages ready. With the cage don't skimp out and get cheap you have spent almost a year of your life now studying and learning about the animal. With so much time already dedicated to this get them a nice cage. Take the time to set it up nice with hidden hide boxes water dishes lighting and LOCKS, be sure to get your emergency protocol set up and start contacting local hospitals and find a doctor who will be willing to treat you if you're bitten with knowledge. Take the time to set an appointment with him and give him a copy of your protocol book and discuss it fully and always keep him updated on what species you keep. Inform the local fire department as well in case they are ever needed. It is also a good idea to meet your local police officers and let them know as well. Some may ask why your telling them but if a 911 call goes out many times police respond or if you're out of town and your house is broken into they will be responding. If the criminals have let out a venomous reptile you don't want the officer to get bit. Being responsible is a major part of hot keeping and that extends to person who may have to enter your house in an emergency.
The Senior Graduation
Now is the time to look back one last time and reflect on everything you have seen and the inherent dangers of working with venomous snakes. Ask yourself one last time, is it worth it? After 1 year and accumulating 1000 hours of training (as per Florida's permitting system) it is time to get you permit. You need to have documented proof of one full year at least with dates and times of area/areas you received your training. You need to have documented proof of 1000 hours minimum to accompany that year signed off by your trainer. You must have two letters of recommendation as well and be able to provide proof and knowledge in the care, feeding, handling and husbandry. All this has to be in triplicate and sent to Tallahassee for review. After they review it they forward on to their field officers for an inspection of your premises. If all goes well you will now be mailed your venomous reptile license.
This is by no way meant to be a training guide for anyone. It is merely some of what a person might go through if they wish to obtain a venomous reptile. Proper training is crucial for safety. I used the school mentality as it is a simple way to keep tabs of a process.
And Yet another example.
Elementary School, We start out with corn snakes and ball pythons. Simple good starter animals so we keep them a few months then decide they are ready to go to Middle school.
Middle School, we get the small to medium size Boas and Pythons. Again we keep them for a while and do ok with a little higher degree of difficultly on to high school.
High school, we get retics maybe a chondro python or emerald tree boa. OK higher degree of difficulty and learning and we keep them for a time and think ok now its time to graduate I can handle a hot. All sounds good right!! NOT EVEN CLOSE
Think about it you now have a collection of from 6 to whatever and must meet their needs and requirements first off! Or did you just pawn them off or sell them off so you can get your next species to work in your education and graduation.
OK now we go into the Venomous Keepers. Just the inherent danger that is obvious with those wonderful fangs should make you stop and think long and hard about it. The keepers I have spoke to in most cases gave it a great deal of thought before deciding they wanted to keep. You need to have a great deal of patience. Imagine a large rattler, gaboon, cobra that is high spirited not responding to what YOU want, not riding a hook or coming out of its cage for cleaning or a million other things. What are you going to do, reach in and grab it like you would a cornsnake or ball python because you're getting frustrated????
You need to have a great deal of understanding. You need to recognize when an animal is not capable or willing to be worked with. That only comes from time and knowledge of a species. At that time, walk away. NOTHING is worth your life. With that understanding also comes the needs for its health and longevity and quality of life in your care. Such as its natural habitat, temps, humidity, levels, prey. All of which have to be right. Some species are prey specific or require special dietary needs.
You need to have constant awareness. If you walk in a non-venomous room and an escape has occurred you find it and catch it, simple. Now you walk in a HOT room and find an escape has occurred. Not only do you need to stop in your tracks, you need to get safety equipment out and then slowly and methodically find and recapture the escaped animal. This can be very tricky especially if you have a spitting cobra or a very large species of viper. Imagine for a minute a large 6 foot spitting cobra in a tight corner of a room behind something fired up and ready to spit. Or try to get a 6 foot rattler or a 9 foot bushmaster coiled and ready to strike with a range of 4 to 5 feet or more if it uses its body to push off increasing its strike range.
OK you walk in the room and everything is safe and secure but you need to open a cage for cleaning or shoe box with a neonate in it. No big deal for a non-venomous, open the cage / box clean it and you're out no worries. But with a hot if it's aggressive in a cage it might come out after you and you better not panic. You need to open the shoe box - better watch your fingers. I know of a few keepers who were bitten opening shoe boxes.
You need to have good knowledge of PROPER handling. Handling DOES NOT MEAN BY HAND. The proper tools needed to properly manipulate these animals for your and their safety is a must and this can only be done after you have mastered everything above and received training from a qualified handler. How do you get patience? This is something you either have or don't. You know if you are or are not. If you don't have any, then don't get hots - it is very much required. My Eastern diamondback is normally very difficult to work with and once he is out does not want to go back in the cage. It may take me 15 minutes or more to finally get him back in. Being patient and calm with him is an absolute must. So ask yourself what would you do in that situation.
How do you get an understanding of these animals? Reading, talking to other keepers, e-mailing zoos and other keepers train with keepers that have the animals you want to have. Awareness is something you either have or don't have. Now for caging. You can keep a boa or corn or python in really just about anything and I have had escapes. With venomous you need to have locking secure cages completely escape proof to the best of your ability. I won't knock any cages as I have kept venomous in everything from Vision to all glass. You should have a lock on all cages and glass with screen tops are very dangerous especially for vipers. Modifications are needed to make these type more secure.
The room they are kept in should be maintained as escape proof. Vents sealed or screened inside and out. Doors should have a stop at the bottom that hits the door itself from the floor as to allow no room to get under and doors should have locks to prevent unwanted entry. Base boards should be caulked to the floor. Windows should be screened inside and out if possible. This should also include in the worst case scenario and you perish who will come get your animals. If it was not for my wife being a hot keeper also I would want to be sure they go to a facility or person whom I know will give them the care they deserve.
You need to have a source for antivenom for the species you want to keep or at least know where the nearest location that has it is. You should have an emergency contact and protocol book in the room with you to be taken to the hospital with you. Contact local doctors near you to find one that has experience with snake bites and go speak to him and be honest with him as to what you will keep and if he would be willing to help you in the event of a bite. Having a specialist or doctor that you know and knows your wishes can save you a lot of time in the event of a bite. Keep a living will in your protocol book with your specific wishes.
Getting trained. I know it¡¦s hard to find someone as a rule but patience and persistence pays off. That said, once you find a keeper willing to train you talk to him and watch him work with animals and see if you feel safe around him. If you don't, find another. Don't stick with him so you can say I am trained now. Remember you can adopt his bad habits if you're not careful or try something you see him do and that's not always safe. I love saying "God made reptiles Midwest made tongs."
Last thing. Keep non venomous and aggressive species for a year. Every time you get bit put "I COULD HAVE DIED TODAY" put the time and date and post it where you see it every day. At the end of the year see how many times that year you could have died. If you're a parent write "TODAY I COULD HAVE DIED AND LEFT MY KIDS WITHOUT A PARENT." Yes I know I will catch flack for that but as a parent it's something I thought about.
I don't want to discourage anyone from keeping hots if it is in their heart to do so. But I would like people to realize it is not a graduating experience or for a novice. These are wonderful beautiful animals to work with if everything is done right and safely.
Ok if you have read all that you either are a gluten for punishment or want more ļ
You may be asking yourself where do I find someone to train me? Your local Herp society is a great starting place. I would say even if you do not keep hots or even want to keep hots join one of these groups as the information and sharing of information will only make you a better keeper. When approaching a venomous keeper for potential training they may be very hesitant to aid you as they take their hobby very serious and the liability risk is high. It would first be a good idea to get to know them and let them get to know you first. In time they may be more comfortable with you asking to be trained.
As with all animals proper caging and husbandry is a must. Before just purchasing a hot discuss it with your trainer and other members of the community. Ask around about what it needs to survive and what its habits are in captivity. I have learned great things from non-venomous keepers that aid in hot keeping so do not discount anyone.
The community is a great resource and one where ego should never take place in and correction should be standard. We are dealing with living animals. We have chosen to take these animals in to our care and thus they are our responsibility. It is our obligation and duty to do anything within our power to make certain they live a full life in our care.
With such long life spans before you purchase an animal of any type be sure you can supply it with all its needs. Buying one and then deciding you do not want it after a short time and releasing it in to the wild is detrimental to the animal and the natural ecology. If you are not willing to keep any animal though its natural life span do not get it. If you are wishing to Buy and sell animals you must be prepared for the fact that you may be stuck with an animal a long time before it sells. With that in mind you must be prepared to care for its needs.
We are judged by our piers and more so by the public. When an attack happens with a Venomous or Large Constrictor it always seams to get blown out of control in the press. As many people have fears of reptiles already and hate them in some cases we must do everything in our power limit these unfortunate events from occurring. In that education is a key role to this. How can we educate not only members of our own hobby but the general public as well? Something I all too often think about as my belief if that if people were informed about the degree many reptile keepers husbandry and safe housing it would reduce the general populations worries and concerns. Doing educational presentations at Fairs, Expos, Schools, Community events are possibly the best way to get information out to the general public.
Good luck and happy herping
I have been thinking lately that people are always asking questions or wanting help before they get in to Hots. Instead of sending them to a million threads on websites I thought perhaps with some of the great articles that have been written by members we could put them all in one neat thread for all to see. So Come on guys and gals paste your good stuff here for a single community resource for all.
Before you purchase a first hot.
When you think about keeping hots what leads you to this? Did you just watch someone on TV go out and grab one? Did you see one in a magazine? Were you just at a zoo or animal exhibit?
If you just watched someone on TV handling one and think you can probably do the same because it did not look very hard, keep in mind there are tricks these showmen use to create safety. Such as chilling the snake in a cooler first or possibly using a venomous {animals that has had its venom glands removed} maybe even injecting the animal with low doses of a sedative. An animal handler on the TV has a film crew and safety crew standing by at all times in case of emergency. You will not have that luxury in your own house working with a venomous reptile. You will not be able to chill the animal before doing simple maintenance of the animal nor will you be able to use a sedative to put it to sleep before working with it. If you keep these Highly Dangerous reptiles you must be able to work with them truly hot.
If you were thumbing through a magazine and found some very beautiful pictures remember this was more then likely done by a professional photographer looking for the right pose the right light the right backdrop and setting. The photographer possibly was a trained handler and knew proper use of handling equipment, so they could manipulate the animal with safety and patients to get the right perfect shot on film.
Were you just at a Zoo? The animals in Zoo collections are babied and pampered beyond belief they have an entire staff of highly trained biologist, scientist, dietitians and handlers working with them daily to be certain all their needs are met.
All the above are persons who have training to some degree with venomous reptiles and understand the risk in working with them and take some degree of precautions before handling/working with these animals. Understanding the animal and its reaction in a circumstance is very important in any species you work with. More so however when dealing with any species that has the potential to disfigure you or worse kill you. Face it a corn snake or ball python is not likely to kill you or force surgeons to open you up to relieve swelling from a bite causing you to have a permanent disfiguring scar or a bite that goes necrotic and eats away part of your flesh. Yes, this can and if the right species bites you will happen.
All that said before you even get a hot you should invest in a quality secure cage for the animal something that can be locked and is escape proof. Glass aquariums with screen tops can be modified yes but have very obvious dangers large fangs can make it through the screen and give you a very nasty surprise. How will you safely open the lid? What precautions need you take to find the animals location? Plastic tubs are good but a misplaced finger under the lid will get you bit as well. Some of these are not very see through so how will you find the animal before opening? Commercial plastic cages with sliding glass or lift up glass are preferred for your safety but again they have draw backs such as lips usually above the slider where snakes can hide and surprise you. If you have a very elaborate set up how will you verify exactly where the animal is hiding? These are all things you need to take in to consideration when thinking about caging and the species you will keep. Snakes love to hide and you need to be able to find them and probing around with your hand is probably not the best idea.
Watering is part of daily maintenance and you need to think about how you can do it safely. Using an oil funnel is great to keep you a safe distance but how do you get the bowl out for cleaning? Feeding is another issue where you may possibly come in to contact with Mr. Fangs. Will you feed live or prekilled? Live has the potential to harm or kill your animal if left in and the animal doesn't feed. A large rat can kill or wound a snake. Prekilled is great to prevent that but if the animal doesn't feed then you need to remove the prey or if it regurges. How will you safely remove it?
Some species when small need to be fed by using long hemostats. Do you have the patience to sit there and tease feed the animal till it eats? Do you have the stomach to brain a pinkie to get the animal to feed? Even in the best captive born animals this may need to be done. Import animals are another all together different monster. Imports can come in severely dehydrated and loaded with parasites. How will you clean these animals up? Do you have the medical knowledge to do it? Do you know what drugs can be safely used to treat them? If not do you know of a vet that will take a hot under his care? Can you overcome the stress they have already been put under and get them to even feed? Do you have a source for natural types of prey remember not all feed on rodents.
Cage cleaning is always a fun time. How do you plan to get in the cage and clean it safely? Reptiles do defecate and it needs to be cleaned up and if you ever seen a cobra tank it¡¦s a full cage cleaning and the animal needs to come out. How will you remove the animal? Where will you put it? How will you secure it after it¡¦s removed? How will you get it back in after the cage is clean?
OK say your heart is set on getting one ask yourself all this and be honest with yourself {Can You Give It ALL Its Needs} if the answer is NO do not get it. When you take on the responsibility of having an animal YOU are responsible for doing everything in your power to insure its health and well being while in your care. Do you honestly have the knowledge and comfort level within yourself to work with these animals safely? Are you getting a venomous to show off to friends and family or tell your friends and family I have a Cobras or Mamba or Rattler etc. If so then do not get one SHOWING OFF gets you dead or others.
For your first hot you need to take in to consideration the availability of antivenom! If you¡¦re in California for example what's the odds of them having antivenom for a species not native to that area? Keep an animal you know is native to your area at least if you get bit you have a piece of mind that you can be treated properly. Do you know what hospital has AV. and have you talked to the doctors or staff to find out if they know how to treat the bite? Do you have a protocol for a bite? What numbers do you have for contacts in the event of a bite? If your hospital does not carry AV. where are they and you going to get it?
Now you have been given a few questions to answer. If you decide to proceed you must take financial needs in to the equation now. Cage cost $50.00 to $600.00 substrate cost $3.00 to $20.00 water bowl cost $1.00 to $20.00 Lighting $15.00 to $50.00 food cost per year $65.00 to $208.00 that figure is for 1 small mouse at $1.25 to a large rat at $4.00 a week keep in mind its in my opinion a very low number Snake $35.00 to $2000.00. Those are all minimal cost numbers I didn't not factor in even for Hooks, Tongs, Tubes, Hemostats, electric bill or water bill. Some states require permits so add on that cost. The food bill reminds me if you have snakes with very high metabolism you better triple that cost.
The best advice is not to buy a venomous on impulse or because you want to show off. Do yourself a favor find an experience hot keeper in your area and get trained to handle the species you wish to own. Learn proper safety tool usage. Take the time to research the animal¡¦s natural habitat and climatic conditions it lives in. Be prepared to provide the animal with to the best of your ability everything it needs to live a full and stress free life in captivity.
There are a lot of question above to think hard and long venomous reptiles should never be taken lightly and I am not going to give the answers these are things every person who reads this and is thinking about getting in to hots needs to research and answer themselves. Maybe in doing so it will dissuade some and make some better and more prepared for that first hot.
Training is something I always stress and believe whole heartedly in.
Many things arise that only someone with hands on experience and years of knowledge of a species can truly help you prepare for. The knowledge of the experienced keeper past on to the pupil is just as valuable as every hook or tong or tube. More important as it can prepare you for the unforeseen signs of an eminent strike or at very least the warning signs.
With training in mind.
Welcome to Hot Elementary School
Kindergarten: This is your beginning in hot keeping - Day One of training for keeping of venomous reptiles when you get acquainted with the tools of the trade. The snake hooks come in all shapes and sizes from little collapsible that are no more than 6 inches to massive python hooks up to 8 feet long. Snake probes that look like your mothers knitting needless. Snake tubes, plastic tubes for placing snakes in for safe handling that look more suitable for holding paper towels or toilet paper then putting snakes in. Tongs for grabbing snakes that make you think you're picking up trash in a park rather then picking up snakes. If you thought on day one you would be handling the animals, think again. You have to be good at the tools of the trade and comfortable with them on nonvenomous snakes before getting close to the real animals.
First Grade: Your trainer says, "Are you ready for some fun today?" Your eyes are bright and bulging starring at the hot room, and dreams of working with venomous snakes are bouncing through your head. Your teacher tells you that the ball python cages are dirty and need cleaning as do all the other nonvenomous animals. Your heart sinks and your nose curls as you realize that this is not going to be a quick deal to work with venomous but a long slow process where you will be putting in your dues.
Your teacher walks out with you and says that every cage needs to be cleaned and every animal needs to be treated as though it were HOT. You must use the proper tools to safely remove them out of the cage and place them in a safety container. Then you must clean the cages and replace the animal using the same safety procedures. At this point you're thinking, "I am this guy's slave just for cleaning cages and am never going to get to handle the venomous I want to."
Second Grade: After several weeks of working under the supervision of your trainer cleaning ball python cages, you hear him / her say OK today we work with the hots. Your heart stops, your eyes bulge and you think, "Finally I get to work with them." He walks toward the hot room, you hot on his heels and he stops you at the door and says you stand here. He then walks in and opens a cobra's cage. You are thinking all right my turn's coming, and he says here go clean this cage and repaper it.
Back to cage cleaner you go. All day long you repeat this procedure watching him over and over again removing the animals himself you wish to work with and handing you the cage to clean. This goes on for several weeks with you watching him handling. You are thinking, "Why did I even want to learn from this guy," or "Why do I even want to be here if I can't handle the snakes myself. I am just a cage cleaner for this person but hey, at least I get to see the snakes."
Third Grade: Finally after several months of cage cleaning you walk in and he says, "Sit down, we need to talk." You are wondering what is going on what have I done wrong my teacher looks so serious and is wanting to have a sit down, there goes my training, I have pissed him off or something. He says, "OK Joe/Jane. What have you learned in the last few months?" You pause and think, you say well I have learned how to use tongs and hooks so many times cleaning cages that they are like an appendage of my own body. I have learned how to get the snakes out of their cages without getting bit. I can smell a dirty tank at 50 paces or a regurge at 100 yards.
Your trainer says, "OK have you been bit since you started using the tools here or at home?" You think No, I no longer just reach in to a cage without thinking.
Your trainer asks, "Are your own cages kept cleaner now?" You think yes they are I can now smell them when they are dirty and IM more alert to cleaning them on site also.
Your trainer asks, "Do you just open cages now without looking first?" You stop and think no, I now look for the animal in all cages before opening. Congratulations Mr. Cage Cleaner - without your knowledge your trainer broke the bad habits that could have gotten you killed. You now look before opening a cage. You now use the proper tools for handling. You now pay more attention to what you are about to do instead of just reaching in and grabbing the animal.
Your keeper says, "OK today we need to sex some animals. Today you get some hands on training." You¡¦re thinking to yourself hot dog I get to get some animals out and probe them and handle them. As you and your trainer walk towards the door he stops you again and says wait here. He walks in the room and opens up an Eastern diamondback's cage and hooks the animal out. You're thinking that it's very dangerous for two people to be in the room he is going to bring it out here for me to work with. As you watch in disbelief as he manipulates it in to a tube and then picks it up and says, "OK go ahead and probe it".
Fourth Grade: Well, now you are at least getting to touch the venomous reptiles even though you have probably probed many snakes of your own. You watch your trainer get out many snakes for probing. You see him carefully open the boxes/cages they are in, being sure to keep his body parts away from the strike range of the animals. You watch him take his time with the animals to manipulate them into the tubes. After doing this for some time he says to you OK come in the room. You are thinking, "OK now I'm going to what sweep the floor mop it maybe or get clean some of the empty cages. After all I am The Great Cage Cleaner." You're thinking, "Man, I have been doing this for 4 months now and the closest I get is to their poop or the poop shoot." When out of the blue your trainer says OK open that box up over there it's all yours.
Your eyes light up, your heart jumps a beat, you're thinking, "Finally I GET TO GET ONE OUT." You go over to the box and open it up as your trainer says how did the bite on your finger feel because you stuck your fingers under the lid when opening. You look at him and say "I did not get bit." He says look in the box and you see its empty except for a plastic snake and your thinking "What the hell." You look at your trainer and realize he fooled you! Or did he? He said how did the bite feel and you realize that you did put your fingers under the lid and had it been real you would have been bitten. You let your emotion and anxiousness get you in trouble. You realize that had it been real you would now be on your way to the hospital. You just received a very valuable lesson in never getting ahead of yourself because you¡¦re so eager to see or work with an animal. The animal is not going anyplace so there is never a reason for you not to take things slow and meticulous with deliberate actions and purpose.
Fifth Grade: You¡¦re come in after that major eye opening experience and are wondering what is going to be next. I really blew it with that cage opening I could have been bit. I didn't look first to see where the animal was. I didn't use proper technique in opening the cage. I was too excited about getting to work with the animal and broke every rule I had learned. You trainer looks at you and says what are you thinking about as he sees your thinking hard. You tell him and he says, "You are now starting to show the maturity and thought needed to see your own mistakes so you do not make them again." He tells you not to dwell on your mistakes but to learn from them now when they don't kill you.
He says OK, let¡¦s go back in the room. He points to a box and says it needs to be cleaned. You go over and look inside and see what appears to be a live snake in it, but the box is too cloudy to tell which species so you place it on a counter and pop the lid so it's still on but never opened. You then reach for a small hook and open it. You had on your mind the disaster from before and do not want to risk it again especially knowing there is a live snake in this box! As you use the hook to open the box lid you see what appears to be Lataste's Viper "Vipera latastei". You are in heaven - finally I get to work with a hot even if it's just the repetition of taking the animal out and placing it in a safety holding container to clean the cage. You reach in with the hook carefully remove the viper and place it in the hold container. You go about cleaning the cage and changing the water. Then you replace the snake in the container and put the lid back on. As you do it you feel a sharp pain and realize you had your fingers under the lip of the lid and have been bit.
You turn in a state of shock and look at your trainer and tell him you just got bit. He looks at you in a funny glare and says, "You were so excited to have been working with the animal you forgot that placing a lid on is just as dangerous as taking one off. Fortunately what you thought to be the Lataste's Viper was just a very nice Solomon's Island Ground Boa, Candoia ssp. One though that looks very similar to the deadly Lataste's Viper Vipera latastei."
Another important lesson learned today in patience and attentiveness. One that caused some pain and blood this time but at least it wasn't fatal.
Sixth Grade: You have learned now how to clean cages. You have learned from your mistakes that not being patient and not thinking ahead can be painful if not downright deadly. You need to look back over these last six months or so and think to yourself, is it worth it to proceed? Do I really want to work with animals that can with one mistake take my life or disfigure me? At this point in your training you have learned much, you realize there is more to keeping venomous reptiles then just sticking them in a cage and throwing in food once in a while. After reflection of what you have seen and learned you still want to proceed with your training. You know there is no substitute for safety and awareness of your surroundings and that you must always maintain a calm and collected train of thought about what your doing, never letting emotions dictate how you handle or work with the animals. Just like in School you have to learn, sometimes learning is not fun and sometimes it is.
Looking back over your grade school introduction to venomous reptiles, you have learned the very basics of which you probably already had some knowledge. How to use a hook, how to use tongs, how to use tubes, how to clean cages. But now your trainer has forced you to use the tools more than you ever would have for your own collection of nonvenomous reptiles. He/She has taught you safety through repetition. Having a hook in your hand is now just an extension of your own hand. You are so comfortable with a hook or tong that is second nature. Your nose has developed into a sharply tuned crap smeller. Your eyes have become safety tools for noticing things out of place or out of the ordinary. Your brain now thinks about all places in a cage an animal can use to hide from sight before you open it. Safety is always on your mind. You have learned all these things but more importantly you have developed a more mature understanding of the animals and yourself. Congratulations - the elementary levels have been learned.
The Middle School
Seventh Grade: Today you walk in and your trainer says it's time for you to get to know the hot room. He says, "Go on in and I will be there in a moment". You have learned from the past that training is never as simple as that. You open the door and look in and see on the floor a box that looks like a lid was popped open. What do you do? The box could have had a snake in it and now it's out! You err on the side of caution and tell your trainer about what you just observed. He says, "Good, I'm glad you didn't go in the room although I did place it there to see your reaction." So now the two of you go in and he says, "Today we go over the basics of a hot room."
First thing is to make certain all cages are of a locking nature or secured to prevent escapes. The room itself should be completely escape proof with a locking door and any vents should be screened to prevent escape. You should know where all tools you need are located at all times and the floor kept clear of debris as well as the counter tops. All the cages should be properly marked and labeled as to what species are in them. An emergency protocol book should be handy and all emergency numbers posted. Emergency lighting set up in case of a power outage. Your trainer asks you to familiarize yourself with everything in the room. He then hands you the protocol book for you to see what's in it. A list of all species that is kept is list in this book along with the species is where they are from what their habitat is, their prey, and importantly the type of antivenin needed in case of a bite along with where to obtain it. All the phone numbers of other keepers in your area are listed as well as Miami Dade Fire Rescue and Poison Control. There are also papers in their on treatment for bites for each of the species kept. You notice a "DNR"order Do Not Resuscitate order and a living will. Also is the keeper¡¦s full medical records. All of these things are important to have in this book in the event of a bite. They will help the hospital in better treating a bite when it occurs.
My own DNR/LIVING WILL specifically states that I do not wish to be saved if I cannot live a high quality of life after a bite. I spelled out very specifically what I felt was quality of life. I do not wish to be a vegetable or burden on my spouse. I also states in there that only my wife and my best friend who is also a qualified paramedic and one of the finest snake keepers are to make any and all decisions on my medical care and wishes in the event I am not capable of making them. I know many hospitals are not qualified due to lack of understanding of snake bites to make these important determinations. And felt that it is best to leave those decisions in the qualified hands of people who understand venomous reptiles and what occurs post bite.
Now that you have done all this your trainer says, "We have a few cages need attention today." He pulls out some boxes and says, "OK your turn." You look around and see the animal at the far end of the cage and pop the lid and use a hook to lift it. Inside you see a small copperhead. You use your hook to remove the snake and place it in a secure container and clean its cage and water it and place a small hopper in. You then replace the snake and using the hook to slide the lid back on and push it down to secure it. You move on to the next cage and the next cage the same way checking each one first. Finally you're working with venomous species. Though they are small and relatively harmless copperheads at least you now getting hands on training. You are deep in concentration of what you're doing when you hear a crash from behind after you just put the last box away. What do you do?
As you turn you realize that the rack holding the black mambas just fell! 12 baby black mambas just hit the ground. Scary prospect isn't it? At this point instinct should hopefully take over. You grab a hook alongside your trainer and look to be certain all the containers are still intact and no shoestrings of death got out. Yes, it was nerve wracking but all is OK and no escapes happened. This is a very valuable lesson in calm and taking in what happened what needs to be done and how important it is that when working in a hot room to know your surroundings and tool placement and where other persons are. Inside that room your life and that of any person in it is in your hands.
Eighth Grade: A joyful time! Many new specimens have just arrived and they need to be unpacked. Unlike when you're at home and get in new animals these are venomous and deadly. So no reaching in with your hands. Your trainer explains to you that when you open each crate you must be very careful as snakes might have escaped their bags. You open each box up and carefully with a hook move bags around to insure no escapes. Your trainer then uses a pair of tongs to carefully remove each bag and place it on a counter top. He tells you to prepare cages and fill a trash can with some water. You ask him why the trash can with water. He explains these animals need to soak and get rehydrated. After preparing the trash can and cages he pulls the bag flat with a pair of hemostats and places a hook securely between the knot and the snake and unties the bag. Then with the bag untied he uses two hemostats to pick up the bag and place it in the trash can to allow the animal to go directly in. Wow, a Cobra. After letting the animal soak it's time to put it in the cage and put him away. Remember to label the cage so you know it's a cobra or whatever species.
On to the next bag - it's obviously a heavy bodied animal that is huffing and puffing. You watch your trainer perform the same procedure with the hemostats and hook, then see the bag jump and two very large fangs blow through the bag. You realize that had a part of anyone's body been on it they would now be envenomated by a viper. After the shock of what has happened your trainer dumps it in the trash can to soak and you see this outstanding Gaboon Viper. It should settle in how deadly this animal is and what would have happened had it bitten you through the bag. Though bags offer some protection a snake can and will bite through one and unfortunately people have been bit during this very dangerous time of unpacking animals.
Ninth Grade: After the day before and the mental and visual lessons you just learned, with the knowledge someday you will be the one having to do these exact same procedures as yourself, you ask yourself again, "Is it worth it to keep venomous?"
Today the animals are going to be medicated and inspected for external parasites and quarantined from the general population. This is a very dangerous day as you know that oral medications mean dealing with the business end of the animals. You and your trainer are in the room and he/she is getting out the animals for proper medications to be administered. You watch as he pins a cobra and inserts a tube in its mouth as it chomps down on the tube and venom starts flowing his fingers only inches from those fangs and a sure bite with one slip. He/She moves on to the Gaboon viper pinning the head and as he lifts the snake it bites down, sending its own fangs through its bottom jaw. The fangs miss his finger by millimeters. This is one of the nasty things a viper can do and improper placement of a finger will get you bit as sure as the sun rises in the east.
One hundred percent concentration is needed for dealing with animals on this level and an understanding of proper handling. It should be said that unless it is absolutely needed NEVER handle a venomous reptiles with your hands.
Quarantine time! Many people have asked me about quarantines, so I thought I would share what works for me. Hope it helps. This is the method I have found to work best for the safety of myself and well being of my animals. Remember a new animal that is not QUARANTINED can bring in unwanted pests and diseases that can be fatal to your entire collection. Remember NEVER under any circumstances place a new arrival in the general population of your other animals. This is very tempting for most people to due but the contagiousness of certain viruses that reptiles can spread to one another it can prove fatal to not only the carrier species but also other species in your collection. Also if an animal has external parasites such as mites or ticks these parasites do have legs and will travel to other members of your collection thus infesting the entire collection.
First thing I want to say is remember to wash your hands before and after you handle the new arrival for both your protection and the protection of the animal. I always clean my hands with an antibacterial soap first then rinse with water then re-rinse with Alcohol. I also use surgical gloves for handling the new arrival.
Step 1 Arrival. Inspect the container the animal has arrived in for mites, ticks and any other external parasites. If any external parasites are present in the container it is safe to assume they are definitely on the animal. At this point I would take the animal out and put it directly in to a plastic container and throw out all the packaging material in an outside trash can. Also spray the trash can with some type of bug spray that is formulated to be nontoxic to snakes. After the container has been disposed of I would take the snake and run warm water over it, rubbing the animal as to remove as many parasites as possible. After thoroughly rinsing the animal place it in clean bag and begin setting up its container.
For an animal that has been confirmed to have parasites I suggest using a product such as "Provent A Mite". This can be purchased online or at a pet shop that specializes in reptiles. I have found it best to spray the entire container and lid and allow to set for 10 minutes. Then place clean newspaper in the bottom and lightly spray again. Allow 10 more minutes to pass then place the water bowl and reptile in.
Step 2 Inspection. Inspect the animal for any crust around the cloacae and mucus around the mouth. If any crust or mucus is found it can be a sign of health problems. At this point it is best to get the animal directly to a vet for treatment. BE SURE TO KEEP ALL MEDICAL RECORDS. I will explain why later.
Step 3 Vet visit. Place the snake in a new clean bag and take to a veterinarian. Do this regardless if the animal looks healthy upon arrival. There can be problems that only a vet can detect through diagnostic tests or his knowledge of reptiles.
Step 4 Housing. After the vet has given the snake a clean bill of health take the animal and put it in a sterile plastic box with paper for substrate. Again I still recommend using the "Provent o Mite" just in case the animal had parasitic eggs that were missed.
Step 5 Feeding. On the 7th day feed the animal. I advise waiting the 7 days as to allow the animal to acclimate and adjust to its new environment and settle from any stresses the animal may have had. Feedings will of course vary on animal and species so a best rule is to use your knowledge of the species you are working with.
Step 6 Vet Checkup. On the 30th day take the snake to the Vet for another health check. Again keep all records of these transactions. Remember you must clean the tank and water bowl every day of the quarantine period. I always use the 90 day quarantine method for safety and health of my collection. I suggest using a dishwasher for the cleaning of the quarantine tank, water bowl and food dish. I understand this seams to be an extreme amount of work and detail but if you have a large collection the cost of not being careful in monetary value can be in the thousands of dollars. Now think of the psychological impact on you and your family at the loss of a pet. In my opinion the cost and time taken to protect both you and your animal is well worth it in the long run. Keeping in mind these animals can lead a long and productive life if taken care of properly from day one.
Now as to why keep all vet records. It is sad to say but there are dishonest persons in the business of selling reptiles. If you do acquire an animal that has ANY problems immediately e-mail the person you purchased the animal from. Keep all records of E-mails from the original agreement to purchase to any problems you have had. If the person is reputable they should be willing to help you with the cost of your vet bill or credit you to purchases in the future. Keep in mind that just because they have a Terms of Service "TOS" does not mean you do not have recourse. Many states now have laws regarding selling animals not in good health. These are known as Lemon Laws and are enforceable. However in all fairness reptiles if not cared for can have health issues surface very rapidly at no fault of the seller. If you have a vet check immediately it will prevent most problems you may have if there are any signs of ill health. Again the same applies to pet shops if that is where you purchased from, despite some of them trying to tell you they have a NO refund or Health guarantee there are some legal precedents that you can use in certain states if they sold you a lemon. Also pet store employees are for the most part there to play with the animals and in many cases have little or no practical knowledge. Do your research first and do not let them tell you falsehoods or myths.
Reptiles if not cared for properly can and will go down hill fast. It is your obligation to them to know everything possible before even purchasing one. You must be able to also properly care for the animal once you have received it.
High School
Tenth Grade: Wow it's been 8 months of learning and seeing things that should make you stop and think a few hundred times if it's worth it to keep venomous reptiles. At this point you should be able to clean cages and work the tools like they have always been part of your body. You should have an instinct about you that warns of danger where the average person would not see it. You have developed a sense of awareness of your surroundings and a calm about you and deliberate action when working with the animals. You should be working now with the species you wish to own and reading about them constantly. Contacting other keepers and asking questions about the animal/animals. Your trainer should be instructing you on the fine points of the husbandry of the species.
Eleventh Grade: Time to start the homework. Setting up your hot room, getting your cages ready. With the cage don't skimp out and get cheap you have spent almost a year of your life now studying and learning about the animal. With so much time already dedicated to this get them a nice cage. Take the time to set it up nice with hidden hide boxes water dishes lighting and LOCKS, be sure to get your emergency protocol set up and start contacting local hospitals and find a doctor who will be willing to treat you if you're bitten with knowledge. Take the time to set an appointment with him and give him a copy of your protocol book and discuss it fully and always keep him updated on what species you keep. Inform the local fire department as well in case they are ever needed. It is also a good idea to meet your local police officers and let them know as well. Some may ask why your telling them but if a 911 call goes out many times police respond or if you're out of town and your house is broken into they will be responding. If the criminals have let out a venomous reptile you don't want the officer to get bit. Being responsible is a major part of hot keeping and that extends to person who may have to enter your house in an emergency.
The Senior Graduation
Now is the time to look back one last time and reflect on everything you have seen and the inherent dangers of working with venomous snakes. Ask yourself one last time, is it worth it? After 1 year and accumulating 1000 hours of training (as per Florida's permitting system) it is time to get you permit. You need to have documented proof of one full year at least with dates and times of area/areas you received your training. You need to have documented proof of 1000 hours minimum to accompany that year signed off by your trainer. You must have two letters of recommendation as well and be able to provide proof and knowledge in the care, feeding, handling and husbandry. All this has to be in triplicate and sent to Tallahassee for review. After they review it they forward on to their field officers for an inspection of your premises. If all goes well you will now be mailed your venomous reptile license.
This is by no way meant to be a training guide for anyone. It is merely some of what a person might go through if they wish to obtain a venomous reptile. Proper training is crucial for safety. I used the school mentality as it is a simple way to keep tabs of a process.
And Yet another example.
Elementary School, We start out with corn snakes and ball pythons. Simple good starter animals so we keep them a few months then decide they are ready to go to Middle school.
Middle School, we get the small to medium size Boas and Pythons. Again we keep them for a while and do ok with a little higher degree of difficultly on to high school.
High school, we get retics maybe a chondro python or emerald tree boa. OK higher degree of difficulty and learning and we keep them for a time and think ok now its time to graduate I can handle a hot. All sounds good right!! NOT EVEN CLOSE
Think about it you now have a collection of from 6 to whatever and must meet their needs and requirements first off! Or did you just pawn them off or sell them off so you can get your next species to work in your education and graduation.
OK now we go into the Venomous Keepers. Just the inherent danger that is obvious with those wonderful fangs should make you stop and think long and hard about it. The keepers I have spoke to in most cases gave it a great deal of thought before deciding they wanted to keep. You need to have a great deal of patience. Imagine a large rattler, gaboon, cobra that is high spirited not responding to what YOU want, not riding a hook or coming out of its cage for cleaning or a million other things. What are you going to do, reach in and grab it like you would a cornsnake or ball python because you're getting frustrated????
You need to have a great deal of understanding. You need to recognize when an animal is not capable or willing to be worked with. That only comes from time and knowledge of a species. At that time, walk away. NOTHING is worth your life. With that understanding also comes the needs for its health and longevity and quality of life in your care. Such as its natural habitat, temps, humidity, levels, prey. All of which have to be right. Some species are prey specific or require special dietary needs.
You need to have constant awareness. If you walk in a non-venomous room and an escape has occurred you find it and catch it, simple. Now you walk in a HOT room and find an escape has occurred. Not only do you need to stop in your tracks, you need to get safety equipment out and then slowly and methodically find and recapture the escaped animal. This can be very tricky especially if you have a spitting cobra or a very large species of viper. Imagine for a minute a large 6 foot spitting cobra in a tight corner of a room behind something fired up and ready to spit. Or try to get a 6 foot rattler or a 9 foot bushmaster coiled and ready to strike with a range of 4 to 5 feet or more if it uses its body to push off increasing its strike range.
OK you walk in the room and everything is safe and secure but you need to open a cage for cleaning or shoe box with a neonate in it. No big deal for a non-venomous, open the cage / box clean it and you're out no worries. But with a hot if it's aggressive in a cage it might come out after you and you better not panic. You need to open the shoe box - better watch your fingers. I know of a few keepers who were bitten opening shoe boxes.
You need to have good knowledge of PROPER handling. Handling DOES NOT MEAN BY HAND. The proper tools needed to properly manipulate these animals for your and their safety is a must and this can only be done after you have mastered everything above and received training from a qualified handler. How do you get patience? This is something you either have or don't. You know if you are or are not. If you don't have any, then don't get hots - it is very much required. My Eastern diamondback is normally very difficult to work with and once he is out does not want to go back in the cage. It may take me 15 minutes or more to finally get him back in. Being patient and calm with him is an absolute must. So ask yourself what would you do in that situation.
How do you get an understanding of these animals? Reading, talking to other keepers, e-mailing zoos and other keepers train with keepers that have the animals you want to have. Awareness is something you either have or don't have. Now for caging. You can keep a boa or corn or python in really just about anything and I have had escapes. With venomous you need to have locking secure cages completely escape proof to the best of your ability. I won't knock any cages as I have kept venomous in everything from Vision to all glass. You should have a lock on all cages and glass with screen tops are very dangerous especially for vipers. Modifications are needed to make these type more secure.
The room they are kept in should be maintained as escape proof. Vents sealed or screened inside and out. Doors should have a stop at the bottom that hits the door itself from the floor as to allow no room to get under and doors should have locks to prevent unwanted entry. Base boards should be caulked to the floor. Windows should be screened inside and out if possible. This should also include in the worst case scenario and you perish who will come get your animals. If it was not for my wife being a hot keeper also I would want to be sure they go to a facility or person whom I know will give them the care they deserve.
You need to have a source for antivenom for the species you want to keep or at least know where the nearest location that has it is. You should have an emergency contact and protocol book in the room with you to be taken to the hospital with you. Contact local doctors near you to find one that has experience with snake bites and go speak to him and be honest with him as to what you will keep and if he would be willing to help you in the event of a bite. Having a specialist or doctor that you know and knows your wishes can save you a lot of time in the event of a bite. Keep a living will in your protocol book with your specific wishes.
Getting trained. I know it¡¦s hard to find someone as a rule but patience and persistence pays off. That said, once you find a keeper willing to train you talk to him and watch him work with animals and see if you feel safe around him. If you don't, find another. Don't stick with him so you can say I am trained now. Remember you can adopt his bad habits if you're not careful or try something you see him do and that's not always safe. I love saying "God made reptiles Midwest made tongs."
Last thing. Keep non venomous and aggressive species for a year. Every time you get bit put "I COULD HAVE DIED TODAY" put the time and date and post it where you see it every day. At the end of the year see how many times that year you could have died. If you're a parent write "TODAY I COULD HAVE DIED AND LEFT MY KIDS WITHOUT A PARENT." Yes I know I will catch flack for that but as a parent it's something I thought about.
I don't want to discourage anyone from keeping hots if it is in their heart to do so. But I would like people to realize it is not a graduating experience or for a novice. These are wonderful beautiful animals to work with if everything is done right and safely.
Ok if you have read all that you either are a gluten for punishment or want more ļ
You may be asking yourself where do I find someone to train me? Your local Herp society is a great starting place. I would say even if you do not keep hots or even want to keep hots join one of these groups as the information and sharing of information will only make you a better keeper. When approaching a venomous keeper for potential training they may be very hesitant to aid you as they take their hobby very serious and the liability risk is high. It would first be a good idea to get to know them and let them get to know you first. In time they may be more comfortable with you asking to be trained.
As with all animals proper caging and husbandry is a must. Before just purchasing a hot discuss it with your trainer and other members of the community. Ask around about what it needs to survive and what its habits are in captivity. I have learned great things from non-venomous keepers that aid in hot keeping so do not discount anyone.
The community is a great resource and one where ego should never take place in and correction should be standard. We are dealing with living animals. We have chosen to take these animals in to our care and thus they are our responsibility. It is our obligation and duty to do anything within our power to make certain they live a full life in our care.
With such long life spans before you purchase an animal of any type be sure you can supply it with all its needs. Buying one and then deciding you do not want it after a short time and releasing it in to the wild is detrimental to the animal and the natural ecology. If you are not willing to keep any animal though its natural life span do not get it. If you are wishing to Buy and sell animals you must be prepared for the fact that you may be stuck with an animal a long time before it sells. With that in mind you must be prepared to care for its needs.
We are judged by our piers and more so by the public. When an attack happens with a Venomous or Large Constrictor it always seams to get blown out of control in the press. As many people have fears of reptiles already and hate them in some cases we must do everything in our power limit these unfortunate events from occurring. In that education is a key role to this. How can we educate not only members of our own hobby but the general public as well? Something I all too often think about as my belief if that if people were informed about the degree many reptile keepers husbandry and safe housing it would reduce the general populations worries and concerns. Doing educational presentations at Fairs, Expos, Schools, Community events are possibly the best way to get information out to the general public.
Good luck and happy herping