10 things newbies need to know.

[BoidKeeper]

After 2 years or so of being on the site I decided it might be a good idea if we posted a list of things that answer some of the most common questions we get.
So here goes with 10 things off the top of my head.

10. Heat Rocks suck, they burn reptiles.

9. Don't stick your heat pad to the bottom of a glass tank. It's there for life in most cases and when the herp out grows the tank you have to get a new heat pad when that one could have done.

8. Yes, you need UV light for your diurnal lizards.

7. Boas and Pythons only defecate about once every 4 meals or once a month or when they shed.

6. Don't house more then one herp per cage unless attempting to breed.

5. Research, research, research.

4. Although your local vet does not specialize in exotics they can still help. They have contacts and resources.

3. Buy CAPTIVE BRED!

2. The corn snake is the best first herp.

1. Ball Pythons are picky eaters at the best of times and do not eat for extended periods of time in the winter. Get over it or get a corn.

Anyone else have any I've missed?
Cheers,
Trevor

[bidden]

Well I have a couple modifications to that....

Leopard gecko's are the best first herp :)

and what's the problem with housing a couple female gecko's together(same species) if the correct cage size is offered???

Great advies for newbies.

edit: don't you think it's a little biased towards snakes??? :confused:

[DragnDrop]

No ... your snakes, geckos, lizards, turtles and torts will NOT grow only as large as their enclosures.

Just because Mother Nature can do the mixed species thing, doesn't mean you can. She has many more years experience and a bigger enclosure to work with than you have.

[BoidKeeper]

I give the nod to corns over Leo's only because corns eat once a week F/T mice. Much eaiser then keeping live bugs around and buying expensive vitamins.
Cheers,
Trevor
PS
Tape should never ever be used inside you cage for any reason.

[Dom]

good advise except for the boas and pythons Gp only about after every 4 meals.. man sorry but I totally disagre..

Some yes but majority goes after 1 or 2 meals.. Especially big snakes.. or big meals

[drewlowe]

Research, Research, oh and more research. # 5 great one...

Quarintine, and fecals, Find a vet that takes herps in your area before you get your herp.

Don't take in rescues if you can't provide the care needed.

Make sure your enclosure is escape proof, before your snake escapes.

[Vengeance]

Hides on both the Warm and the Cool side are a must.

[wyz]

Great post man !

- If you build an enclosure, have it checked by 1 or 2 other herpers before you put your animal in it.
Even if you planned your project very well, there's allways something you overlooked or that you should improove.

- No you don't have to buy 10$ light bulbs.. normal soft white often do the trick

- A plant bulb or fluorescent DOESN'T emit UVB.

- It's not because the guy at the pet store says it's good,,, that it's true even if he really seems to know what he's talking about :)

- Herps don't get lonely.

- Mealworms or superworms aren't known to eat your lizards inside.

WYZ

[mykee]

Vengeance, two hides are not a must, one hide isn't even a must really. I have 10+ big adults in underbed rubbermaids with no hides, they live fine.
I'll add to your list Trevor;
#1. Use common sense, weird thing is common sense isn't all that common anymore.

[daver676]

Originally posted by DragnDrop
No ... your snakes, geckos, lizards, turtles and torts will NOT grow only as large as their enclosures.

Definately a good one.

I'd also mention the fact that reptile DO require veterinary care occationally. Locate a good veterinarian, then make sur eyou can afford ($) to take your new herp there.

[sapphire_moon]

Just becasue it's in a pet store, doesn't mean you can't find the same thing at.....*wal-mart, home depot, lowes, dollar store, or any other store* for a much MUCH cheaper price.

If you don't feel comfortable with the herp vet you chose, try to find another one.
And if the herp vet you do chose gets rude or upset that you ask to see his or her credentials for treating reptiles, Find another vet.

[Jeff_Favelle]

Great post!

I agree with everything except #8. Monitors are diurnal. Its been PROVEN that UV light does jack for them:

http://www.varanus.net/faq/housing.htm#3.11

[Big Mike]

#15...

Just because you (or someone you know) has been doing it that way for years with no problems...does not make it right.

[HeatherK]

Don't buy a reptile on impulse.

[UpscaleBoas]

one more for the list

#?) ssnakess.com has a search function for post so please try it before you post about how best to put down the mouse.

lol....i see a new thread for this all the time.

[Ontario_herper]

Mykee... I was wondering what species you find do not need a hide? I'm not talking about species or animals that appear fine without a hide. But what species do you know of that will not hide or would not benefit from a hide?

Thanks

[mykee]

Many of my ball pythons that I have in my underbed racks do not have a hide, and they shed, eat and drink just as well as my other adults who do have hides. I think you should re-read my post again, I didn't say they wouldn't benefit from a hide, I said that a hide is not a "must".

[Cruciform]

Re: not using tape.

How do you secure the temperature probe to the bottom of the container?

[Scales Zoo]

#16

Everything on this list, including this one, are just opinions. There aren't many "facts" when it comes to reptile care. Many different approaches have worked for people in the past. Keep an open mind and never be afraid to learn, and change your beleifs.

I see Jeff mentioned the Monitors. I had not realized it was "proven" either - but I won't get nit picky this time. Actually, I thought the whole lizard / uv thing was under a lot of debate, not just for nocturnal lizards.

Ryan

[Katt]

Not all posters on internet forums are experts. Don't believe everything you read.

[AHLizards]

Not to many lizards benefit at all from pet-store UV sources. Unless of course you have it 3 inches from the lizard.... Supplementation and a varied diet... thats what ya need :)

[beth wallbank]

the one that gets me, is reptiles are NOT camels. They DO need water to survive.

[Ontario_herper]

Mykee... Your snakes may do fine with no hide. But from the sound of your post you seem to agree that they would benfit from one? So then why do some of your snakes not have one?

[Linds]

- The "expert" at the pet store is WRONG 95% of the time
- The way animals are kept in pet stores is almost always the WRONG way

Originally posted by Ontario_herper
I was wondering what species you find do not need a hide? I'm not talking about species or animals that appear fine without a hide. But what species do you know of that will not hide or would not benefit from a hide?


Ok, it was addressed to Mykee, but I can answer this one as well. True most snakes don't *need* a hide, and will do fine without them, many will still use one if given. Personally, most of my snakes don't get added hides because they do just fine hiding under substrate (be it Carefresh, newspaper, or whatnot) if they want to. I have a fwe snakes that do not make use of hides at all when they have been offered. My female Jamaican Boa sits in her perches day and night, only coming down when there is a rat on the ground, male on the other hand would rather hide than climb. My old ETB never used hides. He had an access hole under his water dish. Found him there once and scared me...lol :eek: Either way though, hides are definitely not a must in most cases for any species, as they can obviously thrive without them, but this is not to say they don't have their place either.

[sketchy4]

good idea Trevor!

[Oliverian]

Don't buy a reptile on impulse.

Lol! I'm more of a 'see a picture of something, research it, and then buy it when i'm not expecting to'.

Like, at a reptile show. I research a lot of animals and don't plan on getting any of them, but oops, just got another one. I think many of us are guilty of this one. ;)

And a must-know for all newbies....
DO NOT thaw out frozen rodents in a microwave... It's not pretty.

-TammyR

[BoidKeeper]

Not sure what number we're at but it should have been in the top ten anyway.
Burms, Retics, Rocks do not make a good first snake. They some of the largest sankes on the planet and will need very large enclosures that will cost very large amounts of money to build. The will also need a ton of food including pigs some day.
So please don't get one with the intention of selling it for twice what you paid for it when it gets too big.
Trevor

[lostwithin]

Ha Ha , does anyone on here feed pigs?? Even too the largest of there pythons?? Just wondering, I mean I’ve heard people say it before as in "they get big enough too eat pigs" but normally from people who are against keeping these large animals and misleading others (no accusation intended at all too you Trevor) just wondering if anybody does it. Biggest I’ve ever seen used were large rabbits. I agree with the rest of the post they are some of the largest (actually I believe they hold the records?) and are definitely not for beginners, but Pigs I believe is a bit of over kill used for scare tactics most of the time. If I’m wrong please correct me.
Also as for the best first herp I would have too say Balls are the best (snake wise), much less flighty then any corns I’ve seen, Leo’s are nice as well, but require more cleaning, and crickets, but defiantly one of the top beginner herps as well.
Devon

[Bearded AL]

This is a great idea and I think it should be kept up top of the forums ,another I think would be good is if you have a question and can not find the answer anywhere in the search please dont be afraid to ask .You cant get an answer if you dont ask and most people here will give you there opinion on your subject as people do things different ,and will try and help when they can
Just my two cents.

[BoidKeeper]

Have you ever disected a pig in high school? Not much smaller then a full grown dwarf rabbit. People should be discourage from buying these animal.
I said Corns are the best first herp, so by default that would mean they are also the best first snake.
What makes a ball better then a corn? Hey I think I feel a new thread coming on.
Cheers,
Trevor

[Linds]

I don't think you can say any one herp is the best first herp. There are a multitude of reptiles out there that match a corns hardiness, manageability, and often have better temperaments. Not everyone likes corns, and it can actually be injurious so recommend them in an end-all be-all manner. You don't want someone to be stuck with something they don't like simply because they are under the belief it is the best thing for them to start with, neither party wins in that situation.

[BoidKeeper]

In my not so humble opinion I believe that a corn snake fits all the criteria that is important to consider when wanting to get a first pet reptile. They don't have to like it for it to be the best first herp. I might like Hondas but that does mean they are the best choice for me if I've never been on a motor bike before.
Are there other snakes that meet that same criteria to varying, degrees sure. However, in my opinion none equal the corn as best first choice for a first time herp keeper.
So, yes I guess I can say it.:p
Cheers,
Trevor

[Big Mike]

#27

Get a good thermometer and measure the temperature on the floor of the enclosure (for terrestrial snakes). Just having a thermometer stuck on the side of a tank is not good enough.

[crazyboy]

make sure you control youre heating device with either a thermostat or a dimmer.

Tanks don't always make the best enclosure.

[Cruciform]

#257 If your herp has a strong feeding response, never handle it in the nude.

[Matt.B]

lol
especially if you are a exited man! :)
Matt