WC BP argh.

[GreenNeutron]

Ok. So I was silly and accepted a female ball python from someone... (didnt really pay anything but shipping and for an enclosure identical to Orion's more or less) but I'm thinking that may have been too much. :confused: She's wild caught, has several scars, but they all look pretty old. According to the person that gave her to me, she's eaten 5 times since Dec. (2 mice 3 rats) all live, multi-colored and at night. She hasn't eaten in about a month though. (I guess that's not really all that long.) I'm guessing she's a fairly newly wild caught critter because she seems quite scared of people. :( I'm kindof worried that I'm in over my head, but I figured I'd give it a go, because no one else is going to want a snake like this.
So... basically I'm wondering if anyone has any advice for dealing with wild caughts who've probably only had bad experiences with people and are reluctant to feed. Other than keeping them in a small closet where they never see people or something. :(

Thanks,
Melissa

[mykee]

Melissa, I also had the misfortune of acquiring an older WC female. Although she is dog-tame, she is a reluctant feeder at 12 yrs. of age and only 2300g. What I would recommend is to immediately give her a hide if you haven't already. In my linited experience with this particular WC girl is to lay a f/t hot rat on top of her, in her hide overnight, and 1/3 times she'll eat it. 1/3 is better than 0/3 but still not the eating rate I'd like to see. Good luck, and keep us posted.

[GreenNeutron]

Yeah... the thing is, according to the dude that had her before me, she's never eaten anything f/t. I don't know if it's because he never offered it, or if she just won't eat it. Do you suggest that I try feeding live/restrained first just to get something in her or what?
I have no idea how old she is, she weighs probably 750 grams or so though, and appears to be rather thin for her length, like I can pretty clearly see her spine just looking at her. (At least compared to Orion, and the nice fat girls that Jeff is always teasing us with.) I've taken her to the vet who confirmed that the dude who gave her to me did indeed treat her for parasites and stuff.

Her cage is a fairly small one because I didn't want to overwhelm her, papertowel substrate so I can watch for any troubles, a water dish big enough to soak in with a built in hide under it, and two cardboard box hides. It's 90-92 in the basking spot, 84 ambient temp. I let the temps drop during the night to 87 and 80.

I think I am going to try the f/t rat though, because that way I can leave her alone with it. With how completely scared of people she is, I can see how she wouldn't want to eat something with me standing over her. That's probably why she stopped eating for that dude in the first place.

*shrugs* anyone with more suggestions? I'd be happy to take them!

[mykee]

Your cage setup along with temps sounds perfect. I would give the live restrained a try (I'm biased though, I feed most of my balls live restrained) If everything else fails, why not, that might be a good starting point. WC are just a pain in the a$$ in my opinion, and not worth the trouble half of the time.

[Leviathan]

I know this may sound wierd but try putting her above or at eye sight level if you can. Go in at night when she's out but don't move around too much. Just let her get used to you being in the room. Also, go into her cage as little as possible. If she's adjusting to a new territory she's not going to want you in it. When I have snakes that are shy that's what I do and they normally calm down within couple weeks. When I have snakes that are being agressive I do the opposite and that works really well for them. My husband laughed at me the first time I thought of this but it has worked for 3 or 4 of our snakes. Anything is worth a try when it comes to the well being of your animals :) Good Luck, Alecia

[GreenNeutron]

So, would you recommend that I put her up higher and then just leave her alone basically for a couple of weeks, just maybe look in once and a while to check her water and temps; then after that try offering her some food and she might be calm enough to take it? I'll admit that I had her on the floor before, and it just occurred to me that she could probably feel vibrations of people walking all over this floor (like even in other rooms.).
I actually put her rubbermaid on the top shelf of my closet, and since I'm only 5' I'm going to have to use a chair to check on her now... but she definitely shouldnt be as intimidated anymore.

(I've heard about using this method on parrots before, but didn't think to use it on a terrestrial snake!)

[Piers]

I've bought cbb yearlings from people I know and have had them go off feed or feed off and on. I may take the better part of a year to get it eating. I sugest just try one food type ie rats, keep it as you have now,maybe a bigger rubber maid with hide boxs at both ends to give it a choice.
As for the food I'd leave a live rat in for a few hours or even over night unrestrained with food and water for the rat. if the snake has a hide and the rat feels "safe" things will be ok. try it for a few hours at night once a week or so and if you feel confident extend the time the rat is in the cage,remember food and water for the rat and try this not more than once a week. more than that will be too stressfull for the snake.
Also increase the humidity and have hides that the snake comes out of from the top so they can look dow on the pray, this works i don't know why(old trick).
Piers

[David Kwok]

I find that WC animals will respond better to feeding if they are wormed. This can be achieved by taking it to a vet and giving it a shot, by doing it manually through the mouth, or by aquiring some reptile worming formula online or at a pet store that can be added to the drinking water. After worming your animal leave it alone and do not look at it or touch it for a week or two and leave it with water which has electrolyte in it. I would make it extra strong. Then try to feed.

Good Luck

Dave

[mykee]

Dave, would you also suggest the worming for a LTC (12+years)?

[David Kwok]

Sure why not? I have heard ppl worming their snakes once a year.

Dave

[mykee]

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

[Leviathan]

It's kind of the same as for birds except birds are the opposite. Parrots are smart and they will bite and get aggresive if they are 'Higher than you'. I don't think this is a 100% gaurenteed thing for snakes but it has worked for all of mine.