Ball Python not eating

[sheldon]

We've had this snake for awhile now and the past 5 times she's ate, we've had to force-feed her. We've tried both live and frozen/thawed mice, nothing seems to work.
We know they're prone to not eat for sometime, but we're looking for any suggestions to help.

Thanks.

[HetForHuman]

well some more info will deffinitly help us help you

like when was the last time it ate?
have you only tried mice? or have you tried rats?

how long was it before you ended up force feeding it?

[sheldon]

Well, she ate just now, but the time between varies since we try small baby mice.Never tried rats.
She's a young snake and way behind in growth.
She's never willingly ate for us, since we've bought her.

[casacrow]

I would make sure she has a hide and that you leave her alone for awhile before feeding. If rats and mice don't work, as a last resort you could scent them with a gerbil. Balls go crazy for gerbils.

[mikemcguire]

I would stop force feeding for know. Not knowing any of the circumstances, i would have to say first off put her in the cage/aquarium or what have you and make sure there is a hide. Secondly make sure the temps are right, not to hot and not to cold. This goes for night and day. Then leave the snake be for a week, some people say two. After the week is up, try to feed it. If it doesnt eat, wait another week without handleing it and try again. If it doesnt eat again, wait another week without handleing it and try again.

Like I said i dont know the circumstances or what you have done already, but these are some of the critical elements that should be taken care of/tried before you force feed anymore. Besides, force feeding can be stressful for the snake, that should only be used as a last resort.

Good Luck man

Mike

[foman]

Force feeding can make the snake afraid of eating, snakes can go amazingly long without eating. I would take the advice of mikemcguire in the above post and go from there.

[daver676]

I hate it when people say baby snakes can go a while without eating. Exactly how long is ' a while ' in your mind?? Keep in mind this is not an adult.

I had the same problem with my baby ball. The problem with my snake was I had the enclosure in a high traffic area. Temps were fine, and she had warm, middle, and cold hides. I put the enclosure in a quiet, out of the way place in the house, and didn't handle the snake for about a week. The next time I fed her, she ate on her own. I've also started feeding larger prey items. I feed mice that are slightly larger than the thickest part of my snake. It leaves a good lump, but not a "beer bottle" lump.

Also don't force feed, but ASSIST feed. Just put the prey, head first, into the snakes mouth, don't try to force it down the snake's throat. Be very gentle when opening the mouth. I use a q-tip with the ends cut off. I've had to assist feed a few times, and once the prey was in the snake's mouth, the snake did the rest.

There are lots of feeding tricks you can try. Put the warm DEAD prey item in a paper bag, then put the snake in and staple it shut. Yes, give the snake some air holes. Put the bag back in the enclosure overnight. This didn't work for me, but has for many others. Search the web for some more tips. There are plenty. Keep us updated on your situation.

Good Luck

Dave

[snakehunter]

have you tried larger prey, these snakes can take sizable meals some times thats what it happens to be, i had to stop thinking on human terms and start thinking like a snake, go to the vet get a check up, it couldvt hurt.

[Derrick]

Just for example my 4 month old jungle carpets went 5 weeks after i recieved them before they ate. sometimes it just takes time. My corns also went 3 weeks before they settled in and ate they were 2-3 months old

[sapphire_moon]

don't forget try braining, dipping the head in hot water, make sure the mouse/rat is hot enough (but not to hot), try the paper bag method or put in a small rubbermaid (with air holes) put the rubber maid in the enclosure (just in case the snake gets out s/he can't get out of the enclosure) and put the lid on the enclosure, try scenting, try smaller prey, try larger prey, you don't want to get your bp hooked on a food item that costs 4-8 dollars (usd) a pop, so personaly I would stay away from trying gerbils and such......

Use force feeding if s/he has lost lots of weight, or appears sick. If s/he has lost a lot of weight or appears sick take the snake and a fecal to the vet.....Use force feeding as a LAST ATTEMPT only.

[BurmBaroness]

What are the temps on ethe warm side and the cool side? Also, this time of yr is when they go on fast, so that is NOT abnormal. Only if the snake is losing noticeable weight should you force feed, or even assist feed. Forcing a snake to eat stresses them out alot, and can also turn them off food even more. I have a baby BP, who is about 4-5 months old, he is going into his winter fast now, but he has always been a good eater. However, if the mouse is too small, ie same or a little bigger than his girth, he will not touch it. THere are all sorts of tricks, but I question temps first, and whether or not the snake is in a high traffic area. Also, if it's being handled, it should not be handled at all except for necessary cleaning, then right back in. Only after 3 successful feeds should handling resume. I have had quite a few BP's, some good eaters, some needing one trick or another, but I have never had to force/assist feed any of them. Temps should be 92 warm side, 82-83 cool side. if it's not hot enough, the snake will refuse food, because it knows it won't get warm enough to digest its meal. no snake wants a bellyful of rotting food it can't digest.

[HetForHuman]

Originally posted by BurmBaroness
What are the temps on ethe warm side and the cool side? Also, this time of yr is when they go on fast, so that is NOT abnormal. Only if the snake is losing noticeable weight should you force feed, or even assist feed. Forcing a snake to eat stresses them out alot, and can also turn them off food even more. I have a baby BP, who is about 4-5 months old, he is going into his winter fast now, but he has always been a good eater. However, if the mouse is too small, ie same or a little bigger than his girth, he will not touch it. THere are all sorts of tricks, but I question temps first, and whether or not the snake is in a high traffic area. Also, if it's being handled, it should not be handled at all except for necessary cleaning, then right back in. Only after 3 successful feeds should handling resume. I have had quite a few BP's, some good eaters, some needing one trick or another, but I have never had to force/assist feed any of them. Temps should be 92 warm side, 82-83 cool side. if it's not hot enough, the snake will refuse food, because it knows it won't get warm enough to digest its meal. no snake wants a bellyful of rotting food it can't digest.

Very good post, i agree totally.

[TannimBP]

Any suggestions on how to warm up a F/T small adult rat nice a warm WITHOUT the guts exploding when struck at??

[sheldon]

We thank you for your suggestions. I'm positive the temperature is ok, checked that recently. We don't "force feed" her we help her with it gently.
She ate a small mouse last night and earlier today she brought it up. We're starting to notice a loss in weight, not too serious, just want to keep her from getting any worse.
We have never had a hide for her, so we're going to try that and leave her for a bit.

[Colin Friesen]

sheldon wish ya all the best. Thier's some awsome advice here.


Tannimbp, try defrosting the prey items slower. ie: Don't use boiling or "super" hot water. Tannim ya might have better luck with people responding to your posts if ya start your own thread.

Colin

[Derrick]

Originally posted by sheldon
We have never had a hide for her, so we're going to try that and leave her for a bit.

oooo 2 hide are a must one warm side one cool. Snakes like to feel secure.

[TannimBP]

Okay got NO boiling the water then drunking the F/T rat in a bag in the water for 5-10 minutes OKay Slow is better Thanx for the help just starting using F/T so trying to figure out best way to get them warm enough for her. Is it wrong/bad to cook the mouse for Her?

[Derrick]

a bag seems like a bit of a hassle. I defrost mine ine one of those glad tupper ware deals in the fridge overnight the add some warm water to it right before feeding. then you can just toss it in the dishwasher and do it all again next week:). It doesnt have to be super warm. think body temp. I also make sure it goes on the heated side so it maintains the warmth if they dont go for it right away

[daver676]

Originally posted by sheldon

We have never had a hide for her, so we're going to try that and leave her for a bit.

Also try reading a care sheet. No offense, but this information is in every ball python care sheet. They NEED a place to hide.

I would also recommend a visit to the vet, and take a fecal sample to be analyzed. Significant weight loss could mean parasites. The regurge is also a concern.

[BurmBaroness]

If the snake has regurged, leave it alone for 2 weeks. Do NOT feed again for at least 10 days. Multiple regurge can kill a snake, their bodies cannot handle the stress. If you force fed her last night, and she didn't want to eat, that could be cause of regurge. Also, I would highly suspect parasites. I second going to the vet, and take a fecal sample in a baggie with you.