Blood python set ups (long)

[Potts]

I have my blood in a 33 gallon tank with 2 zoo med heaters on the bottom of the tank. It also has a 100 watt red zoo med bulb that I keep on during the day. The temp is around 83-84 during the day and drops down to the high 70's at night. I use nature bark and moss in the cage. My blood is still having sheding problems even though I mist the cage (heavy mist) twice a day and I now have two water dishes inside. He is also soaked for an hour a week in a warm bath. I have to say Blood pythons ( or at least mine ) is a royal pain in the ***. I'm always worrying about him. I have owned many boa's and carpet pythons but nothing has got me prepared for this. He is around 2.5-3 feet long and as fat as a pop can in the middle. I have been feeding him 2 med rat pups a week. Is this enough? Its just that he has such a small head compared to his body. He has not had one decent shed since I got him 4 months ago. I always end up soaking him then taking off the skin my self. I'm also now worried that I have too much humitity. Could you all please discribe your blood python set ups, feeding, and the type of substrate that you use? I have been tossing out the nature bark and moss once a week but this is getting expensive as hell. I have been buying the moss/bark at the pet store and the prices are outlandish. Also, he never has regular poops. Sometimes its weeks after he eats. Sorry for the long post, I'm getting so pissed off I'm almost ready to sell him. Thanks for any information. I really appreciate it, Potts:confused:

[chappy]

Hey Potts,

I don't know a whole lot about bloods but I think you may be a little mixed up. From what I do know Bloods need high humidity and I doubt that your snake is having a bad shed because your humidity is too high, it's probably more like hes having the bad shed because your humidity is too low. Maybe you should get something to tell you the humidity in the cage I would say that is pretty important. Also you could cover like 3/4 of the lid on your tank with seran wrap or something to keep the humidity up. I used to have a borneo short tail and I had no probem with humidity, he was kept on paper towel with a bowl of sphagnum moss and a large water dish. I think a lot of high humidity snakes have a problem with RI, so maybe you should look into this.

Maybe you should also look into taking him to the vets if its not pooping proper. If he is WC or something he may have parasites or something, but hopefully not.

Anyway whatever you decide to do good luck and hang in there you shouldn't get rid of a snake just because your having some problems with it you should do your best to get it healthy, its all part of keeping exotic animals.

I hope this helped a bit, but like I said you may not want my advice because I am by no means a blood expert.

Nick

[Linds]

Mine poop every few months... usually when they shed. Bloods/STP's are very infrequent in their movements, as long as everything else is well I wouldn't be concerned at all.

As for your setup, if you can switch to a custom setup or rubbermaid you would have a much easier time. Tanks are a death sentence for humidity loving species. Reason is it is impossible to maintain an adequate humdity level without blocking off the top, and by doing this you are cutting out the airflow. Stagnant air is not good for anyone, and creates a prime environment for mold to grow. Cross-ventilation is key, and is easily maintained by proper placement of holes or vents in rubbermaids or custom enclosures.

Why do you think your humidity is too high? What level is it at? If your snake is having shedding problems it sounds like it may be too low. Humidity guages are just as important as temperature guages. Radio Shack and the like sell digital hygrometer/thermometer combos for around $15.

Do you have a basking spot in his enclosure or is the warmest spot 84? Your blood should have a gradient of 78-88...

I just keep mine on newspaper or papertowel (depends on size... once they reach a certain size they rip up the papertowel pretty bad) in a rubbermaid with a large waterbowl.

As for feeding amount, as long as what you are feeding is the equivalent to the largest part of your snakes girth then you will be fine. Prey size isn't based on the size of a snakes head ;)

Good luck with your little guy, don't give up on a snake just because of their husbandry ;)

[Potts]

Thanks for the reply's. I forgot to mention the humidity level in my post. Dhhuuuuu! I do have a humidity gauge, and its around 70 ish. I always make sure its in the green/blue. My main problem is the snake. I soak it for about an hour or so in warm water and shed aid. When I transfer him back into the aquauirum he just goes under the moss and sits there. He does not try to get the skin off like a normal snake would. I never see him move or explore his cage. I think its time to lube up my *** and take him to the vets. I wont give up on him. Also, I will get a new cage for him. I have a rubber maid container, so should I cut large squares in the sides and duck tape in some screen? What about a light? Linds- You just have a water bowl and paper towels in your cage? How could the humidity be high? It would be nice to to get rid of all this moss and crap. Its a pain to keep clean. Does anyone know of any good books on Bloods? I have over 30 reptile books and not one has over a page on bloods. Thank-you Linds and Chappy for taking the time to respond to my post.

[Grant vg]

Potts,

like linds said, get yourself a large rubbermaid!!
If its not an adult, you should always keep it in a rubbermaid or custom enclosure.

I dont use spagnum in any of my enclosures/rubbermaids for my bloods. Like you said, it really makes a mess...

Buy a big 4' rubbermaid and use several layers of paper towel as its substrate. have two hides on either end and a waterbowl in the middle.
just drill 2 groups of 10 or 15 holes on the width sides of the rubbermaid and that should provide enough ventilation. No need to go the wire route.

have a UTH on one side preferably controlled to have a hot spot of 88 or so like linds said.
I would think 2 UTH's and 100 w heat lamp is way to many heating appliances for 1 33 gallon tank (most likely the problem for bad sheds).
Get yourself a digital thermometer AND hygrometer. they come in 2 in 1 sorta deal. and get those temps and humidity checked ASAP.
lay the thermometer/hygrometer unit and or probe on the bottom of the cage on either end when you think your temps/humidity have stabalized ( a day or so)
Get the proper temps and humidity and go from there....
.
Sounds like your using those little circular plastic temp readers, which in my mind are a waste of money.
Get yourself the real deal as this isn't a species you want to take any chances with.

When its time to shed, you dont NEED to have a humidity box if you dont want. just spray more!
Keep the humidity up to 85% for a week. and right as it ends its opaque stage of the process and regains its normal colour before it sheds. soak him every other day for an hour till he sheds.
and whenever im spraying the enclosure, i always spray the snake in shed everytime And i cant remember the last time i didn't have a complete shed.

There arn't any books on bloods. Dont know why, but theres none.
I wouldn't be surprised if one becomes available in the next couple of years by the barkers though.

dont give up, just tweak your set up!!

Goodluck!!

Gvg

[Potts]

Ok thanks Grant! I will get on that today. What about a day/night peroid? Thats the only real reason I have the heat lamp. Do you spray the paper towels when you mist or just the snake? Thanks again for everyones input. I tried using just the underground heaters and the tank was only in the 70's, I kinda need the heat lamp to get into the 80's. I do have my temp and humidity gauges at snake level. I will buy some better digital ones A.S.A.P. Thanks again too everyone who took the time to reply to my post. I will try my best with little guy, Potts

[BOAS_N_PYTHONS]

GRANT VG:

Great advice and help.

POTTS:

Listen to him he knows his bloods and I pretty much followed the same method on my old blood.

http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/2330medusa_mrbp_-_517.jpg

Cya

[Grant vg]

Potts,

When in shed, spray the snake daily as well as the paper towel.
if you spray twice daily, you dont need to "soak" the paper towel, but get it lightly damp.
Snakes dont need artificial day /night periods. the sun in your room is good enough for them. infact they probably prefer the dim light, as bloods arn't usually sunning themselfs under bright light in there natural habitat.

*** for your temps...
I dont see any possible way that your heater only gets up to 70 degrees.
if you place your hand on the tank/rubbermaid floor where the heat source is under. And if you feel heat....its above 70 degrees.
i think 75 is room temperature in most places. All of my heat pads and heat tape heat well over 110 degrees through 5/8 inch melamine without a thermostat. so i dont see how you could have two on, and it only be 70 degrees.

When you get your digital thermometer/hygrometer.
Which if you can, get a unit with a probe. This is usually called a indoor/outdoor digital thermometer and Hygrometer.
As the probe is usually put outside, say in like a household.

the unit itself, will measure humidity AND Temperature of the surrounding area of the unit, take the probe, and put it underneath the paper towel right in the middle of the hot spot.
have the unit on the cool side.
that way you get an ACCURATE reading of the hot spot. an ACCURATE reading of the cool side, and an accurate reading of the ambient humidity.

These digital thermometers usually come with some sort of clip, or sticky stuff, which enables you to place it on the side of the rubbermaid/enclosure, so the snake doesn't get feces on it.

Some thermometers have 2-3 different screens on it, ach for there respective temperature or humidity reading. Others you may have to switch an indoor/outdoor switch to get the different temps.
This however, can be annoying.
Spend the extra 10-15 bucks and pay 30 bucks for a good tri-screened thermometer.
I think tempminder makes a good one.
Check your local hardware stores/home depot/radio shack and you shouldn't neccesarrily get the first one you see.
As you'll always find a better quality/priced one at your second or third store that will fit your needs. :D
Or if your a BALLER, get the radio shack set that have the LCD display unit which you can keep anywhere in your house, and it shows the readings off of the unit inside the cage. I think these work up to 100-300 meters apart.
I just use em cause im lazy though. but they have alarms, etc... that will let you know if things rise or drop below certain temp or humidity levels.

Anyways,
enough rambling.
Let us know how it goes.

Tony, thanks for the nice compliments. :)

Grant vg

[Potts]

Ahhh! thanks again Grant for the info. I have good news, soaked the blood (kamaula) for 2 hours in warm water and he had a huge crap! For temputures I have been going by the heat temp strip that is around 3.5 inches from the bottom of the cage stuck on the back wall. I have around two inches of reptile bark on the bottom and around another inch of moss. I now have him in a large plastic container. I have plenty of holes in the side and bought a new bottom heater for it. I'm also heating the whole room with a ceramic heater. Gonna soak him for an hour a day untill the shed's improve as well. Thanks agiain for everyones support and advice. As I rambled in my introduction I have wanted a blood since I was 8, twenty years. So this is a dream come true for me. I will keep everyone up dated and post some pics of him finally. Take care all, Potts:}