Sister's corn snake not eating

[Rebecca]

My sister's corn snake has not eaten for I believe she said a month. She can't afford a vet (long story so NO nitpicking on that) I don't know anything about them. SO PM me with what you need to know to help us figure out what's wrong and I'll PM back the info. Also it's acting normal other then that??

[Zoe]

I think it would be a good idea to post the replies, don't you? That way it might help others!

Anyway, just a month isn't anything to worry about, not yet. How old is the corn snake? What are the temps? Humidity and cage size? Cage substrate? Is the snake defacating? Drinking?

Zoe

[jwsporty]

Hey Rebecca,

If it is any consolation my corn went off food for 11 weeks. Likewise I was stressed out over this, like Zoe said, answer the questions.

I keep mine at cool side (average-72 degrees) and hot side (no higher then 88 degrees, average is around 85), substrate is aspen shavings. Does he have a humidity hide? I have a kingsnake that had a rough shed not too long ago and he went off food as well and likewise it was for a month. Have you tried a smaller food item and tried feeding at different times of the day? Overnight feeds? How about live feeds (I'm not a big fan of this but if the item is a large fuzzy it might work), careful if you put a live hopper in feed tub, watch carefully, if he doesn't take it right away, then take it out of the feed tub. How about lighting, corns do like high UV lighting and my vet recommended I do the same when I had troubles.

If everything is ok then despite your sister's situation you should get him into a vet (just to make sure). Not only did I get my guy eating again after his great escape but it was the perfect time to switch to rats.

[Rebecca]

Ok I just want to say my sister never bought the snake her ex-boyfriend bought it for their son. She's trying to care for an animal she didn't even want in the first place. I just didn't know when I'd check back into the corn snake forum. I have a REALLY bad memory so I figured it'd be safer getting the replies through pm's. Ok I just found out that she does not have a temp thing or a humitiy thing. Her house stays around 73 or so and she has an UTH for it so I'm guessing that the temps are ok. It does not have a UV light but it does get some from the windows in the living room. It's been sheding fine, eyes are bright and clear, and nothing on the tip of the tail or anything. The substrate is I believe spumgium moss (sp?) So only feeds it frozen (thawed at feeding) pinkies. It's not very big but they have had it since late october. It's in a 10g tank, it does not have a humid hide but it does have a bowl big enough for it to soak in, she says it does use it. She does not give it any vitimins though. I told her that, I have some she can use until she gets her own. I have, liquid electrod3ize supplement from exoterra, liquid calcimize conditioner also from exoterra, and also some power calcium. The labels say to add 1 drop per 1fl oz. So are those good for it or no?? As I've said I know NOTHING about snakes. We can't get any live mice here that's why she feeds frozen. Even if we did I don't think either of us could do that to a mouse. She says it has been acting normal only not eating. Well that's all I know for now. If you need more info let me know. I'll do what I can. My nephew says thanks ;)

[jwsporty]

Hey Rebecca,

The vitamins you recommended sound like Gecko stuff, but here, I am at a disadvantage. As I am not into Geckos. I do give my snakes vitamins but what I use is standard Centrum Silver, finely crushed and dissolved in water. 1/2 tablet per 1/4 cup and then I inject it into the food item witha diabetic needle. This was brought to my attention months back that rep vitamins don't have a guaranteed analysis of contents. Where vitamins for human consumption must be higher grade and must be properly reported on the label. The Centrum Silver is used because it dissolves much better then any other vitamins on the market. If all conditions are correct, and although you mentioned that she has a UTH doesn't mean it is setup right, is it thermostat controlled for the proper temp. Even the small 8x8 pads can heat up to over 100 degrees without some form of control. These temps could easily send the little guy off feed. A dimmer switch and a digital thermometer are useful and in my mind necessary items in a snake tank. All my tanks use them. The Spaghnum Moss is what can be used for the humidity hide but I would use it for the main substrate. It is very hard to clean and can harbour bacteria a lot easier as it is designed to hold moisture. I would change to either Aspen shavings or expandable forest bark (which is actually coconut fibre). Otherwise I would still recommend a health check trip to the Vet for the peace of mind and then wait it out. Just keep offering the food.

[Rebecca]

Well your right it is gecko stuff but I figured it'll do untill she can drive the 2hrs to get some snake stuff. I doubt she'll do what you do injecting the food with it. She's pregant and a little sqimish so I don't think she do that. I'll get her to change the substrate though. I don't know if we'll find anything else in town here so untill we can make a trip what else can it be put on??

[vanderkm]

Hi Rebecca,

Aspen shavings would definately be preferable to moss for substrate as they are much easier to clean. Until you are able to get those, paper towels are a good alternative - they don't look as natural, but they are cheap, easy to clean and as long as the snake has a few hide boxes, they will work well, except that you have a UTH. Those tend to get very hot if they are not plugged into a rheostat (dimmer switch) and if the snake is in contact with the glass over that surface it can be over heated, if not actually burned. As JWSporty says, this could be the problem that is causing the snake not to eat. They like to burrow under the substrate and end up directly on the glass, and this is even more likely with paper towels. If you cannot get a dimmer set up, I suggest placing a solid, dense object (like a ceramic floor tile or thin brick) inside the tank to cover the area where the heat pad is. Hard to gauge temp without a thermometer, but you want a surface that just barely feels warm not hot when you touch it. Our snakes tend to regulate themselves to about 83 degrees, and when you consider that human body temp is about 99 degrees, things that feel even slightly warm to our touch will be enough to warm a snake to the appropriate temp. Then put the paper towels over the stone surface - make sure the snake can't touch any hot part of the glass.

In addition to overheating being a possible cause of being off feed, other things to consider include the tendency of snakes to go off feed in the spring in breeding season (suspect your guy is a bit young if still on pinkies), any major change in environment (increased handling, moved tank, being frightened by other pets, etc), being scared by prey animals in the past (sudden prey movements can intimidate small corns) and any generalized disease. I cannot comment on usefulness of vitamins and since you cannot visit a vet, I suggest they modify the tank as above, check the snake over thoroughly for signs of injury, mites or illness before putting him back in the tank and then leave him alone for a week. Provide plenty of hide areas (paper towel tubes work great) and offer a thawed, warmed pinky a week later. You may need to try variations in the amount that it is moved to stimulate him to bite. If he doesn't take it, then I would leave it in front of the hide box he is in, overnight. Sometimes flicking the head of a thawed pinky firmly with your fingernail will be enough to expose some brain tissue and get them more interested (but not for the squeamish!). Some people have had luck dipping the mouse in chicken broth. I find if the head is warmer than the body (feels warm to the touch) and I put it inside the paper towel tube where the snake is, he will feed confident enough to feed. Personally, I would handle the snake only once a week for cleaning the cage until it is feeding again. The little guys can stress readily. You might look for a source of live pinkies because some snakes can be stimulated by the scent of live prey. You might also consider trying a fuzzy mouse - they may have more scent and be more appealing. Beyond that, if you can't get him to a vet for a check-up I think you are left with offering food once a week until he decides to eat. Some of them will fast for long periods of time, but smaller baby corns can't go as long as older ones. I hesitate even to mention it, but in my opinion, force-feeding is not an option without a veterinary exam or assitance of an eperienced herper.

Good luck with him and keep us posted,

mary v.

[Thomas]

If its a male it is probably off its food because its the breeding season, it could last for 2 months

[Rebecca]

Wow thanks for all the help I don't know about my sister but I've learned alot. I will pass all this info on to her and help her setup the tank better. Hopefully this it'll work, although it sound semi-normal for them to fast so we'll see. Thanks agian.