Help!! my first blood n also my first snake..

[Katty]

Hi all,
I'm new here n today I also got my first snake... a baby blood python name Spotty.

I have some problems n need help.

Today I brought her home n put her into her tank (17"X12"X12") which have been set up few days ago with a bath tub n a hide out. Over here, our normal room temp is 28C to 30C during the day n 27C to 29C during the nite (average temp).

a) I did not use a heat pat cos the seller told me that our temp here is ok for Spotty. Is it necessary for me to use heat pat??

b) It had been 3 hours since she is in her new home n Spotty has not even move an inch!! Just sitting on the newspaper. Is it normal??

c) She only flick her tongue once when I put her into her home. Is it normal??

d) Told by the seller that she was fed a rat pup 2 days ago n when can I feed her again??

e) The seller told me he can't sex the snake cos is too young but anyway I treat Spotty as a gal :) Is there anyway that I can sex her myself as time goes by(visiblely sex)?? I'm no expert in sexing using the needle thing.

Thanks n appreciate all help.

Just me,
Katty
Asia

[BoidKeeper]

First and foremost the seller should never have sold you that species of snake. In my opinion they are not for beginners. I have 22 snakes and not one blood because I don't want to deal with some of the headaches they come with. My suggestion is take it back and get some else. Even a red tail boa would be a better choice then a blood for a first snake. Or maybe you want to spend more time doing research before buying anything. It sounds to me like this may have been an impulse buy, either way you were not informed enough or misinformed before you bought that snake.
Now enough of the rant time for your questions.

a) Yes absolutely. The snake will want to get warmer then the air temp at some point to help in digestion. Also with out additional heat you run the risk of a respiratory infection.

b) It probably won’t move an inch for two weeks. It just ate and is most likely stressed from the move. A two-week acclamation period should be observed. Don't touch or look at it for two weeks, this is what I do with all new arrivals. Then I try and feed them, and then I don’t touch them again for at least another week.
Also don't forget that snakes mostly sleep all day and only come out at night so the snake may be asleep.

C) Active tongue flicking is always a good sign but this may be normal if the snake is stressed. Give it time to adjust.

D) Wait at least two weeks. Is she taking frozen thawed food?

E) Propping is the best way. Visual is not accurate. Have someone experienced do it.
Good luck,
Trevor

[asphyxia]

Well said Trevor,

I am courious as to what the substrate is

Regards
Brian

[Katty]

Thanks BoidKeeper. For Spotty there is no way I can bring back. I will follow yr advise n hope everything will go well. Spotty as infd by the seller that they feed her live rat pup. But they said she can take thawed food but I dun believed him.

asphyxia, the substrate is newspaper.

Thanks all

[peregrinefalcon]

I think that bloods make great beginner pythons as long as you research your brains out BEFORE getting it. I got a blood as my first snake and he has been doing great since January. I also researched like crazy before getting it so I wouldn't have to make mistakes after I got it and accidentally kill it. Katty, talk to Grant vg about your blood I'm sure he'll be able to help you out. I tried to go to his site to get a link to his care sheet for you but it doesn't seem to be working at the moment. But anyways talk to him and I wish you luck with your new blood! Leave it alone for a while and cover it's tank with a towel so he gets less stressed.
Adam

[Grant vg]

Katty,

Your in a tough position.
Blood pythons are not the easiest snake to keep being a beginner (i still have problems every once in a while.)

Also, chances are, seeing that the guy said he cant sex em at that age, which is ridiculous as well as the fact that you are located close to there native land I would guess its probably not Captive Bred, which means it may have multiple types of internal and/or external parasites.
Something that should be checked by a qualified herp vet.

your temperatures are a bit tricky as well.
If you cant find a cooler room, say in the 78-81 F (26C) degree range i would leave your baby blood at your room temperature.
I have been talking with a few blood keepers in the US, and we have concluded that bloods shouldn't be kept as warm as most ppl have been told to keep them at.
i have found that with hot spots of 90 degree F (32C) dont really get used much. I have switched to 80F (26C) ambient, and 86F(30C) hot spot for babies. For my adults i have done the same and since then, i have seen much more thermoregulation.

Now assuming you cant get the temps any cooler and you are positive those are the correct temps of the enclosure, if i was in your position, i would keep your baby just with your ambient room temp. Many large scale blood breeders keep all there babies in room temp of 86 degrees. And although the best thing to have is a heat gradient, 85-86 degrees ambient with a 90 hot spot would sure make me feel worried about my snake getting a respiratory infection as there isn't much of a cooler place to move too.

Keeping your snake like this temporary shouldn't have any ill effects. but as it grows, i would consider either finding somewhere to house it where you can give it the proper heat gradient or find a new home for it, and possibly look into some sort of desert species of lizard or something else that requires high temperatures.

Im not too knowledgeable on Asian seasons...
Is it these temps year round, or is this the cooler or warmer part of the year?

If this is the hottest it gets there in your part of asia, i would say you could adequately house it like that for the hotter months with just ambient temps, then switch to using a undertank heater on one side for the cooler months. However, this, is just an option, not the most ideal way to keep a blood python.

And yes, my website is not up at the moment, but heres a link to an "in need of an update" caresheet which you can check out right here on ssnakess.com.

Caresheet Link (http://www.ssnakess.com/caresheets/shorttailed/blood.htm)

Hope this has helped,

Grant vg

[Katty]

Hi everyone,
thanks for all the advises.

Over here the temp is very standard thru out the year.

Too bad, there is no herp vet here.

I will try my best to get intouch with experience herp keepers over here for the sexing of Spotty.

As Grant vg said thus I did not add in a heater.

I hope to post her pix soon.

Thanks again everyone :)

[BoidKeeper]

Katty,

Sorry I did not pay close enough attention to the temps that you posted. You can't go wrong with Grants advice!
Again best of luck,
Trevor

[jpaulson]

I would like to touch on one more aspect of keeping bloods. You said that it had been 3 hours and he has not moved yet. Bloods have extremely low metabolism's, therefore they do not move much. It is not uncommon for them to stay in the same spot for days at a time.

As far as being a beginner snake....they are not.

1. They tend to be nippy as babies, and many will remain aggressive thier whole life, no matter how often you handle them. I have had my adult blood for almost a year now, and he still hisses everytime I pick him up.

2. Humidity--they need lots of it. Be sure to provide a humid box for him--expect him to lay in it alot. Bloods are particularily finicky about only drinking FRESH water, so be sure to change water daily. Weekly soaks or baths are needed as well. Without any of these, expect to be picking each shed off by hand in hundreds of pieces. They also will get constipated as well.

Good luck!!

[Katty]

Thanks,
I will look out for all these.

Just me,
Katty

[Mike177]

I pretty much agree But.
I have seen some cases where bloods have been tamed and farly tolorent to handeling. but now that i think of it yours probly is NOT captive bread so that put the odds of it being tame very much aganst you. I would check with the person you bought it from. by the way where did you buy it? and chances are he might lie. there are a good bit of breaders who will say exactly what you want to hear get your money and get you out the door. if you can i would suggest trying to sell it and get onother snake like a ball python first untill you get the feel for snakes and can "read" them. but good luck and keep us updated!

.............................................Mike. .......................................

[jpaulson]

Bloods can be tamed with constant handling. My male Borneo is a sweet heart, once you get past the hissing everytime you go to get him the first time. My recommendation to you, Katty, is to handle him alot...more than most other species. You will get bit, so I hope that that is not a real concern. Do not be surprised; for thier bulk and how little they move, they can strike with lightning reflexes. Just do not give up...you should be able to have a tame pet with lots of work.

[Katty]

Hi all,
Spotty ate a F/T mice today :) So happy :)

So far she is very tame n hope she will maintain that way :)

[ReptiZone]

all I can add is if you got your baby to eat then you are doing somthing right so keep up the good work

[Katty]

Thanks :p

[Katty]

Yup,
nearly forget something....

After spotty eaten when can I remove her from the feeding container???

Today, she ate the mice n I saw that her "tummy" some where in the middle become fat then I carefully lift her up n put her back to her home. Is a short time after she completely comsume the mice.

Am I doing correcty?? Pls advise. Thanks

Just me,
Katty

[peregrinefalcon]

Why are you using a feeding container, ingestable substrate? If you put the blood on paper towel then you can just feed her in her tank and you won't have to deal with possible regurgitation.
Adam

[Katty]

Hi,
I thought by feeding separately Spotty will not have the idea of opening the cage mean food??

Currently I know some of the ppl in my area r feeding their blood pythons in their own cage thus they become very tigger happy. Always bite until a point that the keepers totally dun handle them at all.

Thanks


Just me,
Katty

[peregrinefalcon]

Well, mine doesn't bite at me. I guess it just depends on your blood's temperment, mine is a puppy-dog and has not even attempted to bite me! I really don't know what to tell you, I guess just wait for more people to respond with their way of feeding.
Adam

[snakelover111]

you shouldn't get a blood for a first snake. id recomend a cornsnake cause bloods get huuuuuuuuge!!!!

[Mike177]

well blods dont exactly get huge. they are large in contrast to there leangh, but moving him to a feeding contaner never hurts. my burm is as sweet a a puppy but i still put her in a feeding contanor just because it never hurts to be safe. and if your blood is alrady some what tame then she probly is captive bread keep up the good work and keep us posted. try to get some pics of your setup and snake so we can further help you. cuz that what ssnakess is all about :-)

[killaclown]

Man i should slapp you .[just a figure of speech] reaserch your snake b4 you buy it,. Whas it the only snake in the store or something?

[Linds]

Originally posted by Katty
I thought by feeding separately Spotty will not have the idea of opening the cage mean food??


I used to utilize feeding containers way back when. Once my collection started growing it became quite inefficient. Having used feeding containers and not used them, both on agressive animals and passive animals... I have noticed aboslutey NO behavioural differences. Agressive animals have still calmed down just fine while being fed in their homes, as well as non-agressive animals have stayed that way. I believe that feeding containers are not necessary and only create undue stress for the animal... as well as when your blood reaches its adult size it will not only be risky for the snake, but it will be risky for you as well. Handling a 30lb animal in feeding mode is NOT safe.

[Potts]

My blood is very tame. He hissed everytime I picked him up for the first month I had him. See if you can find/order Reptiles magazine January 2003 issue. It has a few very good articles on bloods. Make sure temp is in the low to mid 80's and make sure to have a hide box. I really love blood pythons, I have wanted one since a child, just got mine 3-4 months ago. He is tame and eats a frozen rat every monday.

[sydcire]

I have 2 borneos both nippy as hell,but in time they will tame,and with only one snake it is a very good idea to feed in a nother tank or box,this way it doesnt think your food every time you go into the tank,and as long as its a baby it is a fine snake to start with,just do some research on it,at least it will grow with you and you will be able to tell its moods before its full grown,also this way you get to find out what a bite feels like,i mean were not talking a full grown blood here people.Thats my opinion.


Syd

[tightsqueeze]

ok Katty i only have one question ...WHY would you even concider buying a herp when you know there isn't aherp vet in your area???

[killaclown]

Finaly someone sees that she is unfit to keep this animal