How to feed new corn snake?!

[tjb606]

Hello!

I just recently acquired a new 4-month-old corn snake. This is my first snake, and I was hoping someone could help me with how to go about feeding. I have fresh frozen pinkie mice for him. I also wanted to feed him a tub and not in his tank to reduce biting when getting him out of the tank.
Should I feed him in the tank for the first few feedings and then transition him to a tub? Or should I go ahead and pick him out of the tank and into the tub to feed him from the beginning? If so, how long should I leave him in his tub before putting him back into his tank?
Any information and help is appreciated. Thank you!

PS. I am sure he will try and bite the first few go arounds, so any young corn snake handling tricks and tips are always welcome!

[Tsubaki]

You should not feed him in a tub, it's not needed and might only cause stress. Moving an animal that just ate is dangerous, and the easiest way to get bitten. Also, you might end up conditioning the animal that being taken out of the tank, means they get food. It makes no difference, it's just more dangerous. To try and condition the animal that feeding time and other times are indeed different.. Make sure feeding time is actually different from other times: feed at a certain time of day, don't touch the snake when you're planning to feed it, don't hang around or change a waterbowl or anything while its dinnertime... If you plan on getting it out touch the snake first with a hook or a twig or whatever, just to show it's not feeding time. Many snakes don't even need the touching with objects anymore after a while, they can tell the difference.

[craigafrechette]

If you don't want to get bit, feed inside the enclosure. Feeding tubs are old school and proven counter productive over time.

Feeding tubs...
A) increase your chances of being bitten. Moving a snake still in feed mode can be more challenging than you might think

B) moving the animal = stress. Stress leads to refusals.

C) moving the animal = stress. Stress leads to regurgitation.

There is literally zero benefit to feeding in a seperate feeding tub.

I've never once been bitten by any of my snakes INSIDE their enclosures, and they are all fed INSIDE their enclosures. I've been tagged plenty of times outside the enclosure though...

[Herpin' Man]

Here's how I suggest feeding the snake:
- First, as the others have indicated, feed it inside its enclosure
- The rodent should be fully thawed to a temperature of around 90f, more or less. Warmer than room temp, definitely, but not too hot.
- Using a tong or forceps, and without disturbing or moving the snake, jiggle the mouse in front of it to entice a strike. Individual snakes respond to different methods. If the snake doesn't immediately grab the mouse, try touching the mouse to it's neck, pressing it gently against the snakes mouth, etc.
- If the snake does not eat, report back here for advice on more hard core feeding techniques. I doubt that a well started corn snake will give you much trouble, though.
- Don't handle the snake until it is eating regularly and reliably. Disturb it as little as possible.

[craigafrechette]

Here's how I suggest feeding the snake:
- First, as the others have indicated, feed it inside its enclosure
- The rodent should be fully thawed to a temperature of around 90f, more or less. Warmer than room temp, definitely, but not too hot.
- Using a tong or forceps, and without disturbing or moving the snake, jiggle the mouse in front of it to entice a strike. Individual snakes respond to different methods. If the snake doesn't immediately grab the mouse, try touching the mouse to it's neck, pressing it gently against the snakes mouth, etc.
- If the snake does not eat, report back here for advice on more hard core feeding techniques. I doubt that a well started corn snake will give you much trouble, though.
- Don't handle the snake until it is eating regularly and reliably. Disturb it as little as possible.


I agree for the most part. But in my experience touching the snake with the prey usually leads to a refusal. They know it's there. They smell it, if it's warm enough they sense it. No need to put it right in there face.

[Herpin' Man]

I agree for the most part. But in my experience touching the snake with the prey usually leads to a refusal. They know it's there. They smell it, if it's warm enough they sense it. No need to put it right in there face.

You might be surprised at how often a touch elicits a strike from a reluctant feeder. I've had little snakes that seemingly ignored the mouse, but when I touch it to their nose, open their mouth and take it. With others, touching the mouse to their neck has been especially effective.
Each snake may respond to a slightly different stimulus, so the keeper sometimes has to try different things in order to get them feeding.

[chairman]

I've had snakes that want you to wiggle the mouse in order for them to want to strike. Others want the mouse perfectly still. Others want you to place the mouse with a light amount of pressure immediately against their snout. Others just want the mouse left in there with the lights off, plenty of privacy.

I would recommend picking an approach that you would prefer and try it. Give it a couple weeks, one feeding attempt per week. If it doesn't work then try another approach. I have always found corns to be good eaters, I wouldn't expect too many problems.