View Full Version : How can I make my 120 gallon aquarium a sealed top?
Guitaris70
09-24-18, 06:58 PM
I want to get a ball python and put it into my 120 gallon glass aquarium. Is there any good recommendations for a top? 60"L x 18"W 26"H are the dimensions but it has a break in the top where it would probably need two separate tops?
JustAnotherOne1
09-30-18, 07:39 PM
That should be more than enough room and you should be fine. I asked my local pet store for how big of an enclosure room for an adult female ball python and they said at least a 60 gallon. I'd go with screen tops and not glass because I don't wanna accidently drop the glass plates meant for fish on a snake. Do take account that it will be harder to sustain the temperature in a glass aquarium for obvious reasons. I'd just insulate the whole tank with reflective foil bubble wrap the same kind of foil bubble wrap used for roof insulation to keep the temperature sustained and then throw a wall paper or 3D background of some sort. I'm gonna use a 90 gal I have that was used for fish also. The insulation worked well in holding the water temperature for the south american cichlids. I'm betting it will be the same for a terrarium. Maybe double insulate outside and inside now. Hope this helps.
toddnbecka
10-01-18, 05:25 PM
Pegboard would be the least expensive material to use, just cut to fit inside the tank rims. To help hold in humidity get a couple pieces of styrofoam board (I found sheets of it at the Dollar Tree store), peel the paper off both sides, and attach it to the inside of the pegboard with zip ties. Just leave enough of the pegboard uncovered to provide good ventilation. Use the 12"-18" Tera tie downs to secure the tops, and you're all set.
I just did that on a 40gallon breeder tank and a similar but different setup to a large octagon display that top opens. The tank I used thin plywood sealed in enamel like I've done on enclosure bases but the more typical melamine or pegboard and various other sealing options will work. We built it as 2 halves with short front, back, and end pieces attached to the top piece to keep it from sliding on the tank rim. Then latched the 2 halves in the center so flip the latch and they slide one direction away from each other or lift one half off. Since I used solid board rather than pegboard we drilled a 2" vent on the hot side and then multiple 1" vents on the cool side with screen door mesh over them.
The octagon display has heavy steel panels with large vent holes so I cut corrugated plastic to the shape of each triangle panel. Right now I have it attached with velcro as removable rather than glued on. The coro is lighter, easier to work worth than wood, and already waterproof so given I had a frame to put it on I decided to go with that. It can be shaped to anything and vent holes cut infinitely with a small razor blade. Far faster and simpler than measuring, cutting, and sealing wood but flexible and hard to fasten down securely against large snakes if you don't put it on a frame.
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