im new please help lol

[amythyst626]

hello.
im 27 new snake mom to a baby ball python about 4 months old
we purchased from Petco and of course battled mites and over came it lesson learned!

well my husband and I would like to give her the best of the best. we want to become experts we want the best of the absolute best. so I have purchased a beautiful solid wood china cabnet with glass doors and im hoping to turn it into an amazing habitat for her. I would please request some advice (I know they hide constantly so I wouldn't even need something so fancy but I don't care I want fancy! my medusa must have fancy!)


we please ask for your recommendations for:

the best heat lamps
heat mats
subsrate
plants and
hides :D
PLEASEEEEEEEEEEE
we want the best for our little noodle

[ClockwerkBonnet]

Welcome to the forum! I'm hoping the mites will go away soon.

Generally speaking, snakes don't need UVB lighting, but providing it won't hurt your little ball python. Just remember that balls are nocturnal and only need their light on for 12 hours.
As for the heat mats, undertank heaters will provide a gradient on one end of the cage for the snake. In case you're wondering what I mean by that, it gives your ball a place to warm up when it needs to. To keep track of how hot the area is, you'll need a thermometer, which you can also find at Petco. The warm end of the glass china needs to be 88-96 degrees Fahrenheit, while the other end needs to be 78-80 degrees.
Ball pythons need humidity levels of 50-60% in order to shed the right way, so you'll need to mist the cage to maintain those numbers. To keep track of the amount, a hygrometer (it's similar to a thermometer, but it measures humidity) can be used so you know if more humidity is needed. Of course, that's easier said than done since wood can be negatively affected by vast amounts of humidity.
Cypress mulch is recommended because it maintains humidity of its own, but the same cannot be same for cedar shavings. They contain harmful oils that are unhealthy for the snake. You must also avoid pine shavings because they are very dusty, and exposure to them will result in respiratory problems.
If there's enough room in the china, you can put a hide box on each end of the enclosure. Just make sure there's at least one because ball pythons are secretive little noodles, and they will become stressed when hides are not provided. Also make sure that the snake can fit through the openings.
Feed the ball python a rat that is no larger in circumference than the snake at its largest every week. In your case, that would probably mean starting out with a rat pup or at least a growing mouse. Don't leave the snake alone with a live rodent, however, as the rodent can injure the snake.
Snakes can sometimes go on hunger strikes, which are times when they refuse food.
If yours begins going on one, don't panic. Unless it's ill or stressed, it will eat again later on.
Unfortunately, I don't know much about the live foliage that's recommended for a ball python. However, you can buy artificial branches and plants if you like.
If possible, look for a herp vet so that when you see that something's wrong with your snake, you can take it to the vet and have it checked on.
I understand that this is more information than you requested, but I had to provide it all to ensure the best for your little noodle. :-)

[craigafrechette]

Hi and welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of snake keeping!!

Sorry to hear about your battle with mites. For your NEXT snake, you'll know to go through a reputable breeder and not deal with corporate big box stores who see animals as inventory and not living things.
Like you said, lesson learned...

Now on to the enclosure: if it's a China cabinet, it's probably taller than deep. Which is no good for a BP or any terrestrial species. Floor space is far more important than height for terrestrial species.
The height may also make it super difficult to maintain proper temps and humidity.
It's not impossible, but far from ideal, especially for beginners.

Your best bet is to buy a PVC enclosure that is made for snakes. Animal Plastics has the best reputation, but others are available and can be found via a web search for "pvc snake enclosures" or something similar.

Many of the PVC enclosures are stackable and make fantastic displays while being designed for snakes, so practical as well.

I'm in the research/shopping stages right now, myself. Time to upgrade from glass and make room for more snakes!! I've considered turning an old bureau or dry bar into an enclosure or stack, but for the amount of work it would take it's just not worth it. It's a lot of work to make, and to maintain. You have to consider sealing it, revealing it every so often, figuring out proper ventilation, how to heat through the wood or cut out a section and add plexi to place a UTH or RHP, etc...etc...etc...
Soooo...I'm going to let the pros who've already worked out all those kinks handle it. It's a lot harder than it seems. I've got years of experience with keeping snakes and a few years of carpentry under my belt and I'm not ready to build my own that will be properly functional.
Could I do It? Heck yeah. But would it be what's best for the animal?? Probably not, and that's what's most important....

Moving on:
THERMOSTAT: VERY IMPORTANT!!! ALL heat sources regulated by a thermostat to prevent dangerous heat spikes which can cause serious burns or worse to your snake!!
Jumpstart or Big Apple work fine, but HerpStat is best by far.

Thermometer: Accurite indoor/outdoor thermometer/hygrometer combo. Found at Wal-Mart for $10 Each. I have two in every enclosure

Substrate: I use a blend of Eco Earth and Repti-bark. I have for years. I have to adjust the ratio seasonally for best humidity control. Also great for odor control and looks great

Heat lamps: ditch them for RHPs (radiant heat panel). They won't dry out humidity.
For lighting, many LED options are available. But remember BPs don't need light and prefer dark. The lights are there for us. If left on too long they can stress the snake which can lead to food refusals and other illnesses

Hides: you will need at least two, and many people suggest using identical hides so the snake doesnt choose security over proper temp regulation. I suggest anything snug fitting with one opening. Cave style hides work well. I use those and the box style ones from Reptile Basics. Avoid half logs and anything hollow (skulls, trees,etc..). Half log hides don't offer the security BPs crave and the decorative ones can be nightmares WHEN (not IF) the snake finds its way in and gets stuck.

Plants: dollar stores and craft stores (or craft sections in Wal-Mart, etc..) can be gold mines. But be VERY careful to inspect them thoroughly for sharp edges or wires that the snake can get snagged on. I've seen some horror stories through the years.

Also: VERY IMPORTANT: never use tape or anything similar inside the enclosure. They can get stuck to it and lose scales and sometimes skin. They can also get into it and break spines, etc...

Anyway, I hope this helps!!! Feel free to ask any questions you may have.