View Full Version : Reptile basics RHP help
GyGbeetle
03-23-17, 12:40 AM
Just setup our 6'x2'x18" boaphile with a 120watt RHP. Roof mounted. Reptitherm 500R thermostat (I am NOT liking this product), and we can't seem to get the hide above 80 degrees, which sits underneath the RHP. Probes are on top of the panel. This is for my albino Burmese Python. Any suggestions please?
GyGbeetle
03-23-17, 12:42 AM
We are moving the probe closer to the ground. Thoughts?
Aaron_S
03-23-17, 09:06 AM
What do you mean you can't get the hide above 80? Inside the hide or on top of it?
Sometimes probe placement is a reason why it's not reading right. I've never used those panels so I don't have any tips. Move it about and see what happens.
GyGbeetle
03-23-17, 09:18 AM
I cannot get the temps inside the hide above 80. RHPs are attached; can't really move them around. We moved the thermostat probe from on top of the heat panel, to the bottom of the enclosure, hoping that the temp gauge won't prematurely cut off the thermostat regulator. As of this morning, the hide temp was 82 and above the hide temp was 88.
I really need tips and advice from those familiar with RHP, as these function different from UTH and CHE units. Do people tend to use more than 1 heat source in these larger enclosures? Where is probe placement for best results?
I'm real close to buying the 160 watt model, so these tread has a strong interest for me... I'll be damned if I can find it, but I thought I read the probe had to be within 6 inches of the panel... You would think, that you would want it, where ever the basking area is; but the basking area has to be within 2 feet of the panel: I think??? Did it come with any instructions? Are you sure your thermostat is compatible? Although I don't know way it wouldn't be... You should be able to give them a call so they can talk you through this... Keep us posted...
I hate to say this but you might have to jump to the 160 watt... Here is their recommendations ... I wouldn't panic just yet...
If your cage falls into the 2'x4' or 2'x6' range you will want to upgrade to the 80 watt panel. The 120 watt panel is for generally for larger cages 2'x6' or larger, open air enclosures or cool room temperatures. The 160 watt panel is intended for 6' and 8' cages. When in doubt you can move to the next higher wattage, just make sure you use that thermostat!
A 6 foot cage is on the border between the 120 watt to the 160 watt...
afsgr88
03-23-17, 10:12 AM
Why don't you put a heat pad beneath the hide? I do that and it works, even though my burm doesn't hide xD
GyGbeetle
03-23-17, 01:28 PM
We have an extra heat pad. I think that's what we will do. The cage is really big and it could be that it's just not able to generate enough heat.
Just got temp for the tank and it's 93 over her hide, and still around 81 inside the hide. I think we may do the heat pad underneath. Her actual body is 85 right now (breeder recommended to temp gun her body).
We will see how it all goes
Aaron_S
03-23-17, 06:41 PM
Why would you temp gun the body since that fluctuates all the time?
I would remove the hide entirely and see what the surface gets to consider the snake won't be using a hide forever
Large snakes eventually go without.
trailblazer295
03-23-17, 06:54 PM
Where in the hide are you reading your temperature? What material is the hide? What is the ground temp outside of the hide?
Large snakes eventually go without.
I did not know that... Is that because their not afraid?
Where does a 200lb. snake sleep? Anywhere he wants! haha... :yes:
GyGbeetle
03-23-17, 08:22 PM
Where in the hide are you reading your temperature? What material is the hide? What is the ground temp outside of the hide?
I'm reading on the bedding under the hide. Hide is plastic. Outside of hide temps are the same.
bigsnakegirl785
03-23-17, 09:45 PM
The temp inside the hide is irrelevant so long as the air temp is correct. I keep my probes as close to the ground as I can while also keeping it out of reach of the snake.
Even adult giants will use hides, I would vote leaving them in if you'd like to provide them. I have noticed no evidence of it causing aggression or anything else people have claimed in the past, adding a little security or a way for the snake to get out of any lighting will do nothing but help make them comfortable.
From what you're saying about the temps in the enclosure, I do not think a heat pad will be necessary, the temps all seem within order. 82F inside the hide may actually be on the hot side, if it's too warm in a hide the snake may not use them. I'd just leave everything as is unless you start noticing other problems with the temps.
Aaron_S
03-24-17, 08:27 AM
...Even adult giants will use hides, I would vote leaving them in if you'd like to provide them. I have noticed no evidence of it causing aggression or anything else people have claimed in the past, adding a little security or a way for the snake to get out of any lighting will do nothing but help make them comfortable...
Thanks for the criticism without knowing my entire point. I had asked a question about the temps of the surface without the hide, or next to it for a reason.
I didn't say remove the hides entirely at this time. I was going to suggest the same thing as you that the temps would be fine within the hide. If the snake needs to bask it'll climb onto the hide, no big deal.
I have never heard of hides causing aggression with large snakes. I've only looked at as it's a giant snake, who makes hides large enough to fit 15 feet of snake?!
GyGbeetle
03-24-17, 10:13 AM
She hasn't gone into her hide since we moved her. She just stares at us and lifts her head when we walk by. She even tried to unlatch the enclosure, but it's a boaphile; it's locked down like Fort Knox. She finally went to the warm side yesterday. She seems ok; no obvious issues so far, other than her staring at us. There's no light in there at all; that's a project for a later time. We were thinking about doing an LED strip just to provide illumination for us to see her. They don't produce any heat, so I feel more comfortable using that than other lighting sources.
She seems content. I don't. I used to wake up in the middle of the night and just watch her. Can't do that now unless I get up out of bed and lay on the floor (which I admittedly did 2 nights ago)
bigsnakegirl785
03-26-17, 04:50 PM
Thanks for the criticism without knowing my entire point. I had asked a question about the temps of the surface without the hide, or next to it for a reason.
I didn't say remove the hides entirely at this time. I was going to suggest the same thing as you that the temps would be fine within the hide. If the snake needs to bask it'll climb onto the hide, no big deal.
I have never heard of hides causing aggression with large snakes. I've only looked at as it's a giant snake, who makes hides large enough to fit 15 feet of snake?!
The last point is mainly what I was referring to, where you were saying larger snakes go without. Cat litter pans with a larger hole cut into it should fit a decent-sized Burm. Might not fit a 15' Burm, but a big cat litter pan might fit a 15' retic if it isn't obese (not that that's pertinent here). Larger than that, you can go with Sterilite tubs, you might have to paint it though. Plenty of options for an adult giant, if you aren't looking at reptile-specific supplies.
As far as the rest of the suggestion, I assumed OP was already removing the hide to measure temps, but if they aren't then that would definitely be a good step to take.
Hey GyGbeetle.. Did you get the temps dialed using the RBR heat panel?
GyGbeetle
03-28-17, 12:33 PM
Hey GyGbeetle.. Did you get the temps dialed using the RBR heat panel?
It appears the temps and humidity are good. She spends a good amount of time on both sides of the enclosure, and she seems really content. She's at floor level, so the cats can watch her; I'm not really liking that too much. But that isn't a temp issue.
We didn't add belly heat for her; she doesn't seem to need it. Other than that, she's a fairly happy snake from all accounts.
Feeding was VERY interesting though. She was in a tank with slides on the top before. This is the traditional front opening tank. She did her best cobra impression while feeding, and ate on the floor instead of inside her enclosure. We're going to have to find a better routine for feeding that one.
dannybgoode
03-28-17, 12:40 PM
It appears the temps and humidity are good. She spends a good amount of time on both sides of the enclosure, and she seems really content. She's at floor level, so the cats can watch her; I'm not really liking that too much. But that isn't a temp issue.
We didn't add belly heat for her; she doesn't seem to need it. Other than that, she's a fairly happy snake from all accounts.
Feeding was VERY interesting though. She was in a tank with slides on the top before. This is the traditional front opening tank. She did her best cobra impression while feeding, and ate on the floor instead of inside her enclosure. We're going to have to find a better routine for feeding that one.
The great thing about radiant heat sources is they do provide a heat by heating up whatever is below them for than object to then radiate IR back up.
It's how nature works afterall-there are very few natural 'belly heaters' other than the ground doing exactly the same with the sun's heat.
Those that do exist tend to to be things like volcanic activity which can be somewhat overpowering for a reptile, well most any animal.
I very rarely use a uth (quarantine tubs only) - Even my C paulsoni in her tiny 1'*1' Viv only has a special nano sized ceramic heat emitted (and I've even sourced a nano uv light for her :) )
I'm glad it's working for you; As I stated I am about ready to buy a Reptile basics RHP 160 watt for Georges cage... How far away did you have to put the probe from the panel to make it work?
RBI panels are crap and have very little penetration power compared to Pro Products panels, save yourself the time and effort and email Bob @
Pro Products (promist@comcast.net). He will go through the room temp, cage type, and make sure the panel is the right size for your application.
I have 20 plus panels at my house and been using them for over 12 years now, my original panel is still white as the day I bought it as well. Great product and tested for safety.
RBI panels are crap and have very little penetration power compared to Pro Products panels, save yourself the time and effort and email Bob @
Pro Products (promist@comcast.net). He will go through the room temp, cage type, and make sure the panel is the right size for your application.
I have 20 plus panels at my house and been using them for over 12 years now, my original panel is still white as the day I bought it as well. Great product and tested for safety.
Can't say much about their web site! Do they have a price list? Are these guys in Canada?
GyGbeetle
03-28-17, 02:29 PM
I'm glad it's working for you; As I stated I am about ready to buy a Reptile basics RHP 160 watt for Georges cage... How far away did you have to put the probe from the panel to make it work?
I think reptile basics vs. pro products are a matter of preference. I know that Animal Plastics works with Reptile Basics to install the RHP into the enclosure for custom builds.
the probe currently is on the wall, about 4-5 inches from the RHP. We didn't get success having it next to the RHP, and having it on the ground was not triggering the thermostat appropriately. But we're going to get a Herpstat soon, and I think those will work much better than the turn dial one currently being used. I would not ever recommend the turn dial thermostats. They suck.
Ya this is the first time I have heard Reptile basics RHP referred to as crap...::sorry:
GyGbeetle
03-28-17, 02:49 PM
Just do your research and make your own assessment. I would talk to both companies with a list of questions too.
"pro products" Ya can't even email them through their site... It's hard for me to have confidence in a company with a site like this... :no:
Some of the biggest scammers with some of the absolute worst products have had very professional looking websites. It means nothing and shouldn't be a reflection on how a business is run nor shoyld it really affect how confident you are in dealing with someone, honestly. Please don't use this as a gauge for business or you may make a bad mistake.
trailblazer295
03-28-17, 04:17 PM
"pro products" Ya can't even email them through their site... It's hard for me to have confidence in a company with a site like this... :no:
The website has email and phone number. I've communicated with Bob both ways. I bought 2 panels a few years ago. I was in need of another panel recently. When I moved houses and then moved cages around I found the hot side wasn't quite as hot as I would like. Talked to Bob and went over everything, got a bigger panel for my biggest cage and moved everything down one cage size and am very happy.
As I've mentioned before they don't list panels and prices on their site because people would order the wrong one and then be unhappy. They make a lot of different sizes of panels.
Well I have to say I don't see that much negatively about Reptile basics RHP and the biggest negative comment came from Bob at pro products... Can't say Bob knows how to conduct business...
trailblazer295
03-28-17, 04:41 PM
Saying his competitors are not safety tested may sound negative but it's a factual statement. Pro products panels are the only panels that are tested and must meet recognized safety standards. It isn't necessary down there but is up here. That doesn't change the fact that one product is UL ULC and CE listed and the other is not tested by anyone. They are made and sold and only in house testing would be done.
It's your choice what you want to use. I know a lot of members use RBI panels without issue. Personally I like when a product is independently tested to strict safety standards.
Some of the biggest scammers with some of the absolute worst products have had very professional looking websites. It means nothing and shouldn't be a reflection on how a business is run nor shoyld it really affect how confident you are in dealing with someone, honestly. Please don't use this as a gauge for business or you may make a bad mistake. I don't want to start a debate here, but I don't know how you can say this... A business's web site absolutely should be a reflection of their business... I don't know how he can sell anything with this site... It's like going to your favorite store and see nothing but trash in the window!
Saying his competitors are not safety tested may sound negative but it's a factual statement. Pro products panels are the only panels that are tested and must meet recognized safety standards. It isn't necessary down there but is up here. That doesn't change the fact that one product is UL ULC and CE listed and the other is not tested by anyone. They are made and sold and only in house testing would be done.
It's your choice what you want to use. I know a lot of members use RBI panels without issue. Personally I like when a product is independently tested to strict safety standards. I agree that UL ULC and CE listed is a good thing but it also drives the price up... Reptile basics has been selling panels for 20 years and if they were a big fire problem, they would go away like hoverboard...
I don't want to start a debate here, but I don't know how you can say this... A business's web site absolutely should be a reflection of their business... I don't know how he can sell anything with this site... It's like going to your favorite store and see nothing but trash in the window!
It's not a debate nor will it develop into one I don't think, but I would be happy to explain how exactly I can say this as it's very easy to do so and for me to come to this conclusion. A lot of people in the industry that have been around for a while aren't always tech savvy and don't always see it as an asset to be so. I know of lots of people who don't even have a business page on facebook that I would happily deal with, no hesitation. A webpage does not make a business. Perfect example...about 10 years ago a business here in Canada with a really nice state of the art website and a good name only to new people coming into the hobby scammed some people out of a lot of money by misrepresenting what they were selling. Litigation occured. If you want to rely on how someone builds a website to judge how they conduct business that's just fine Sattva, all I am saying is don't let that be the ONLY thing.
It's not a debate nor will it develop into one I don't think, but I would be happy to explain how exactly I can say this as it's very easy to do so and for me to come to this conclusion. A lot of people in the industry that have been around for a while aren't always tech savvy and don't always see it as an asset to be so. I know of lots of people who don't even have a business page on facebook that I would happily deal with, no hesitation. A webpage does not make a business. Perfect example...about 10 years ago a business here in Canada with a really nice state of the art website and a good name only to new people coming into the hobby scammed some people out of a lot of money by misrepresenting what they were selling. Litigation occured. If you want to rely on how someone builds a website to judge how they conduct business that's just fine Sattva, all I am saying is don't let that be the ONLY thing.
Well you you guys have given me a lot to think about... Does anybody have Bob's email address?
trailblazer295
03-29-17, 06:19 AM
promist@comcast.net
promist@comcast.net
Thanks trailblazer... I'll check him out...
Here is his recommendations for george's new cage...
For this reason, the cage you describe with the specifications given and a room temperature that can get down to 70 degrees, I would recommend our Pro Heat model PH-12, 300 BTU/h, 88 watt, 12" x 24" x 1" panel mounted approximately 6" from one end of the cage and our model PH-3, 222 BTU/h, 65 watt, 12" x 18" x 1" radiant panel mounted about 18" to 24" from the PH-12 panel. They will be able to create a variable basking area and gradual gradient across the cage. Our panels can be controlled with any brand of thermostat to create a desired temperature range. Pro Heat radiant panels are the only panels sold that can be mounted directly to the inside top of the cage against any surface without any risk of damaging the material or ever causing a fire. The cost of the model PH-12 is $114.95 and the PH-3 is $94.95. S&H to the lower 48 would be $22.95 for these two panels.
I'd have to pay almost pay twice as much for the panels and get a thermostat that will handle two... I think I should roll the dice with Reptile basics...:confused:
dannybgoode
03-29-17, 01:36 PM
Personally that sounds like a very considered response from a knowledgeable guy.
I'd pay the money as I don't skimp on the basics that keep my reptiles alive and well although I appreciate it is a chunk of change.
On the other hand you'll have them for years so see it as a long term investment.
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