Help! New Dumeril's wont leave cool side of the cage

[Sm_Banks]

I picked up a Dumeril's Boa at a reptile show on Sunday. I got him home and got his cage ready. I put him in and he explored a little bit. He then attempted to coil up in his water bowl. He hasn't moved from that spot since then. I don't want him to get too cold, but seeing as he is new I don't want to reach in and move him before he is settled in. Thanks in advance!

[Andy_G]

Just make sure you have proper temps available and let him figure it out. They've been thermoregulating for thousands of years without our intervention and they truly know better than us.

[Sm_Banks]

Thank you Andy, I was just worried about him because he has been on the cool side for almost two days straight.

[eminart]

What Andy said. All you need to do is provide him with the correct choices. He'll do the rest.

[GyGbeetle]

A lot of my boas sit for days on the cold side of their enclosure, and they are all healthy. I just figured they weren't the sharpest tools in the shed. They have a warm side too, but some prefer to be on the cold side more often. Like the rest said, I wouldn't worry too much about it, unless they are soaking in their water dish for a couple of days, because that could mean mites. Came home from a show with mites; didn't even have an animal. Found out when one of my baby boas was soaking in her water dish for a couple of days

[Andy_G]

In addition to the above posts: Snakes will also soak when they don't feel safe anywhere else in the enclosure...they think they're hidden away. Most species will not be seen using the hot/warm side unless digesting or gravid, so it's not uncommon for a new addition that hasn't been fed yet to remain on the cooler end.

[Sm_Banks]

I just brought him home from the show and all he has been doing is sitting in his water bowl. I hope he just doesn't feel safe instead of mites. His cage is right by my BP's cage and the last thing I need is a mite infestation. Andy, I offered food a couple hours after I put him in the cage and he has a big hide log, he refused to eat and go in the log. I did bake the log before I put it in so the log couldn't have given him mites.

I just checked the water bowl and saw about 300 little black dots swirling around at the bottom of the bowl. I think that confirms the mite theory. Any suggestions on how I kill them?

[Andy_G]

It's best to always leave new acquisitions alone for 5 to 7 days before offering food. Lots of people don't, but they run the risk of their brand new addition regurgitating or becoming stressed. I wouldn't worry about it not eating.

Mites arew awful. Snake mites are only present on snakes so your snake didn't catch them from the log nor would it have if you hadn't baked it. They would have been present on him when you purchased him if they're in that great of numbers already. Definitely use the search function on our forums to find out more about mite treatment. The two most popular and safest methods for irradication of mites are nix and PAM (not to cooking spray). You'll have to treat all the snakes that you own.

[GyGbeetle]

http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/general-discussion/107873-way-mite-prevention-treatment-informative-thread.html

You can also find this link by searching in the forums. This was a literal life-saver

[Sm_Banks]

Thank You everyone, I have started Reptisafe treatments as that was the only thing that was easily accessible and somewhat cheap. I will try to keep you all updated as their condition progresses.