Red Bulbs for retics?!?

[jay's reptiles]

I tried looking around online. But all i found were Bps and red bulbs. So i was wondering if i could use infrared heating bulb for my Retic when she is older. Because i'm building her a 9ft enclosure. Would she be able to see the light coming from the bulb?

[EL Ziggy]

I use IR heat bulbs for several snakes and they don't seem to have any issues with them. I'll be switching to radiant heat panels as my heat source soon and will use red led lights for night viewing.

[bigsnakegirl785]

It's best to avoid visible light if you can, or turn them off at night. Plus, in my experience, red bulbs last maybe 2-3 months, and at almost $20 a pop, it gets expensive. I would advise using a CHE instead. They're a tad bit more expensive, but should last you a min of 3 years, and 6-10+ years if you use a pulse-proportional thermostat. No visible light, either, so you can leave it on 24/7. RHPs are another good option, but depending on your set up, I've found them to dry the enclosure out more than a CHE does. Creates a very nice belly heat and raises ambients fairly well, though.

[dannybgoode]

Big fan of che'so but you need to make sure that there's no way the snake can touch the bulb. They get ferociously hot.

I've measured the fl surface of one, whilst under stat control, at near 250c/500f. They are not to be messed with.

Brilliantly effective though.

I like rhp's as they are more compact than a Che but they are more expensive. That said I may move over to them when I upgrade all my vivs.

Make sure your thermostat is suitably rated and go for a higher wattage che than you actually need as it will be under less load.

[jay's reptiles]

It's best to avoid visible light if you can, or turn them off at night. Plus, in my experience, red bulbs last maybe 2-3 months, and at almost $20 a pop, it gets expensive. I would advise using a CHE instead. They're a tad bit more expensive, but should last you a min of 3 years, and 6-10+ years if you use a pulse-proportional thermostat. No visible light, either, so you can leave it on 24/7. RHPs are another good option, but depending on your set up, I've found them to dry the enclosure out more than a CHE does. Creates a very nice belly heat and raises ambients fairly well, though.

I was thinking buy an CHE. What wattage do you suggest? Like to reach 90-92 hot side.

[bigsnakegirl785]

I was thinking buy an CHE. What wattage do you suggest? Like to reach 90-92 hot side.

Couldn't really tell you, it depends on the size of your set up, the height you're trying to heat, and the room temperature. I'd just test out different wattages. You want one a slight bit higher than you need so it works less to heat the space, and the thermostat will regulate it so it doesn't get too hot for the enclosure. I'm using 100 watts in my 6'x2'x3's but if the room temp falls below 80-85F the CHE can't keep up. When the room temp is below 75F the enclosure falls below 80F. If I plan on keeping these permanently, I'll probably have to almost double the wattage, and that's with 120 watt RHPs heating the other end. Works well in the summer, not so much in the winter. If the room they were in wasn't so drafty, the space heater could keep it warm easily but there's bubbles of cold throughout the room.

[Hank]

Couldn't really tell you, it depends on the size of your set up, the height you're trying to heat, and the room temperature. I'd just test out different wattages. You want one a slight bit higher than you need so it works less to heat the space, and the thermostat will regulate it so it doesn't get too hot for the enclosure. I'm using 100 watts in my 6'x2'x3's but if the room temp falls below 80-85F the CHE can't keep up. When the room temp is below 75F the enclosure falls below 80F. If I plan on keeping these permanently, I'll probably have to almost double the wattage, and that's with 120 watt RHPs heating the other end. Works well in the summer, not so much in the winter. If the room they were in wasn't so drafty, the space heater could keep it warm easily but there's bubbles of cold throughout the room.

I have found it desirable to use a 150 Watt CHE that is "dialed in" to approximately 50% power using a standard light dimmer. Once you get the temps set right with the dimmer you will be utilizing the 150 Watt unit at ~ half power which will provide two benefits. The CHE will last damn near forever as it is coasting at half the designed use, and for the winter months it is easy to crank it up a bit. As you will not find the exact wattage bulbs (heat and light), it is nice to have that adjustability...

[dannybgoode]

I have found it desirable to use a 150 Watt CHE that is "dialed in" to approximately 50% power using a standard light dimmer. Once you get the temps set right with the dimmer you will be utilizing the 150 Watt unit at ~ half power which will provide two benefits. The CHE will last damn near forever as it is coasting at half the designed use, and for the winter months it is easy to crank it up a bit. As you will not find the exact wattage bulbs (heat and light), it is nice to have that adjustability...

Given the massive heat output of che's I'd NEVER user one without a proper thermostat. Far too greater risk imo. If these things go nuclear they could fry most reptiles.

Also one controlled with a pulse proportional stat will last far longer as well as being far safer.

[trailblazer295]

You could try looking at exo terras website, I found their charts to be quite accurate in terms of distance and measured temps at X distance for each wattage. A 100w wasn't enough for my hot spot and the temps I was getting matched within a degree or two what the chart said. Had to bump up to 150w and that's in a exo terra.

Worth noting as that this is based on regular house temps 71-78f. If you heat your reptile room then that will change. I prefer to have airflow and fresh air moving through my reptile room (just a room in the house) than stagnant.

[bigsnakegirl785]

Agreed, with Hydrofarm thermostats going for ~$30 there's no reason not to choose a thermostat over a dimmer or rheostat. Too much room for error since neither dimmers nor rheostats control the temperature, it is 100% up to the keeper to constantly monitor it, which means the enclosure could be too warm or cold at any given time. I'd honestly rather spend the few hundred bucks getting a Herpstat or VE than risk my animal's health with a dimmer or rheostat, save that for non-heat lighting.

[dannybgoode]

@bsg-quite agree. One area I don't skimp on is equipment-particularly thermostats.

Both my lizard and boa have fully programmable digital stats (around $120 each and give the option of multiple temperature points throughout the day, high/low temperature alarms, lighting control etc) and the carpet currently has a quality but manual pulse proportional.

In due course he too will have the same digital stat. Each set up has cost many times more than the animal but hey-they'll hopefully live for 20 years plus so the outlay is well worth it.

[trailblazer295]

If you're handy with wiring there are other thermostat options out there. Personally I prefer Ranco controls.

[dannybgoode]

If you're handy with wiring there are other thermostat options out there. Personally I prefer Ranco controls.

There's some very natty diy thermostat projects I've seen.

These are popular here in uk:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00E0JNDD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_85?ie=UTF8&qid=1474087379&sr=8-85&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thermostat+controller

I could knock something up but to be honest for the reliability and back up of the manufacturer I just buy a known unit.

We have a company here in the UK called Microclimate who design and manufacturer their products here and their customer service is brilliant and they have a 5 year warranty on their kit so I just buy that.

Bit lazy I know as I'm sure there's a killer Raspberry Pi project in there somewhere!

[trailblazer295]

There's some very natty diy thermostat projects I've seen.

These are popular here in uk:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00E0JNDD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_85?ie=UTF8&qid=1474087379&sr=8-85&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thermostat+controller

I could knock something up but to be honest for the reliability and back up of the manufacturer I just buy a known unit.

We have a company here in the UK called Microclimate who design and manufacturer their products here and their customer service is brilliant and they have a 5 year warranty on their kit so I just buy that.

Bit lazy I know as I'm sure there's a killer Raspberry Pi project in there somewhere!

I have seen prewired ranco controls online. I just bought them locally from a supplier and wired it myself. They are UL and ULC tested as they have to be by law here.

[Hank]

Agreed, with Hydrofarm thermostats going for ~$30 there's no reason not to choose a thermostat over a dimmer or rheostat. Too much room for error since neither dimmers nor rheostats control the temperature, it is 100% up to the keeper to constantly monitor it, which means the enclosure could be too warm or cold at any given time. I'd honestly rather spend the few hundred bucks getting a Herpstat or VE than risk my animal's health with a dimmer or rheostat, save that for non-heat lighting.


It is best to not speak of what YOU are not familiar with. That Is EXACTLY how dimmers(electronic control) and rheostats(variable resistor) operate, by varying the voltage which results in a temperature/light change of the controlled device. I feel most confident relying on a dimmer, while a thermostat set-up will either fail in an ON OR OFF state, depending on the relay configuration, a dimer provides a constant voltage output WITHOUT the hysteresis swing(look it up), of a thermostat control. AND, to be smart, isn't it OUR responsibility to be 100% aware of our pets surroundings? ALL the time?? If you like to spend lots of $ to improve your "feel good quotient", then go for it.

[dannybgoode]

I am an M0 radio amateur ( equivalent to an Extra class ham in your neck of the woods) so have a very sound knowledge of electronics.

A rheostat does not control the temperature in the same way a thermostat does as it does not take any account of changes in ambient room temperature-it will apply x watts to the heating device regardless of whether the ambient temp is 0c or 100c.

This can (and does) cause overheating whereas a proper thermostat will compensate accordingly.

Further a rheostat applies constant power to the device being heated whereas a pulse proportional stat sends on/off pulses to the device being heated (hence why they're not desirable on a light emitting bulb) and controls the temperature by varying the length of the on pulses. This is a far more efficient method of temperature control as no electricity is 'wasted' so to speak and is by far the best method of controlling a ceramic element (you are correct in that non pulse thermostats work in a similar manner to a rheostat-indeed they contain a rheostat-but as per my earlier point they compensate for changes to ambient temps).

All thermostats I have ever come across will only fail in the off position and as for hysteresis (I don't need to look it up but thanks for the offer) your rheostat set up taking into account my point about ambient air temps will over a 24 hour period create a far larger temperature than a proper thermostat so is a total non issue.

Yes, a rheostat is better than no temperature control but it is no substitute for a proper thermostat either and to suggest otherwise highlights your lack of knowledge not mine.

[bigsnakegirl785]

It is best to not speak of what YOU are not familiar with. That Is EXACTLY how dimmers(electronic control) and rheostats(variable resistor) operate, by varying the voltage which results in a temperature/light change of the controlled device. I feel most confident relying on a dimmer, while a thermostat set-up will either fail in an ON OR OFF state, depending on the relay configuration, a dimer provides a constant voltage output WITHOUT the hysteresis swing(look it up), of a thermostat control. AND, to be smart, isn't it OUR responsibility to be 100% aware of our pets surroundings? ALL the time?? If you like to spend lots of $ to improve your "feel good quotient", then go for it.

Sure, they control the voltage, but they don't read the temperature and adjust the voltage accordingly. That is up to YOU. So, no, they don't control the temperature. YOU control the temperature.

Herpstats actually have a fail proof in them that will cause them to shut off should they fail, and the part responsible is replaceable and they sell the parts. So not entirely true.

That's what thermometers and temp guns are for. To double check that the thermostat is working correctly.

I'd really rather not go to work one day with the dimmer set for morning temps and then when it gets up into the upper 80's having the heat STILL running and find out my animals have overheated because the heat was still running in such a warm room and they had no way to escape because - the temperature was not being controlled. The heat sources would still put out heat, the heat gets trapped in the enclosures, and the temps continue to rise because - hey enclosures trap in heat! Even thought the dimmer is controlling the voltage the heating element will continue to put off heat no matter the ambient temps.

Sorry, but I'm not putting my animals' lives at risk like that.