First post, first Python zero experience

[Traaaaavis]

So as the title says this is my first Python (and snake altogether) and I guess you could say I adopted it. A buddy of my didn't want the responsibility anymore so I said I'd take him. I don't know really much as stated above but I've wanted one for a while now. He gave me a pretty dirty tank with a water dish in it and that's it. Apparently it has a heating pad under the bedding,which I plan on swapping out with new stuff asap. I believe he's neglected the snake for a month or so and I'm curious on what I should do. Any and all advice is welcome and greatly appreciated. Do I clean the tank inside and out? Should I feed it right away? I read somewhere that I should try and handle him for about a week? Any thoughts on that. Have patience with me as I am a new Python owner. Thanks in advance.

[Minkness]

Welcome! And congrats on your new buddy.

Cleaning the tank should definitely happen. You can try to offer food once he's all set up again, but don't be surprised if he doesn't take it. If it's still a young snake or small, try again in 7 days. If he's larger, wait 14 days before offering again. Handling should only be attempted after 3 consecutive successful feedings take place.

Good luck and keep us updated! Also, we always love pics around here, so don't be shy to show him off!

[Traaaaavis]

Sweet thanks for the reply!
My friend said he's 3 years old. Looks about 3.5 ft long. Also he said I need to get him something to go under and hide.

My question is, should I go right away and buy bedding and something for him to hide under and like a big branch to go up on and complete his tank tonight. He literally dropped off the empty tank and the snake in a box to me at work.

Also does it matter what side the light goes on or do I put it in the middle?

I tried browsing a little but didn't see any "Python care for dummies" threads.



Sorry if I sound like a noob but I am so.....

[Traaaaavis]

Sweet thanks for the reply!
My friend said he's 3 years old. Looks about 3.5 ft long. Also he said I need to get him something to go under and hide.

My question is, should I go right away and buy bedding and something for him to hide under and like a big branch to go up on and complete his tank tonight. He literally dropped off the empty tank and the snake in a box to me at work.

Also does it matter what side the light goes on or do I put it in the middle?

I tried browsing a little but didn't see any "Python care for dummies" threads.



Sorry if I sound like a noob but I am so.....

[RAD House]

First things first what kind of python do you have? There is a pretty good chance it is a ball python, but you know what they say about assuming. If this is the case the lamp may be unnecessary, unless the heat pad is too small. How big is the tank you received? Definitely clean the crap out the tank with reptile safe cleaner and get new bedding. Make sure you do not get pine or cedar bedding. Other things you will need right away are two cover objects he can hide under completely, a thermometer, and a thermostat to control the heat pad. You need to put a hide at each end, one over the heater and one on the cool side. The thermostat is a must so you do not burn the snake. Next you have answer my questions for us to help you more thoroughly.

[RAD House]

Also until you have a thermostat the snake is safer with all heat sources unplugged.

[EL Ziggy]

Welcome and best wishes Travis. Like Meso said, do you know what type of python it is? You can use Google to find basic care sheets on most snakes and there's lots of experienced keepers here that can help as well. I wouldn't feed or handle the snake until you get the husbandry dialed in. Do you have a thermostat to regulate the temps on your heat source? If not, don't use the heat mat just yet. Please share a picture of your snake and setup when you can.

[REM955]

Welcome.
Everyone starts somewhere.

I saw in your other post you have a ball python. I know nothing of them. I can only ramble off the basics.

First off is HEAT. Two things are needed for this:
Heat source: Ceramic Light Bulb shining down (no exp on this) or an under the tank heater (UTH). I use a radiant heat panel, but it is a bit pricey. At least mine was.
Thermostat: No, you CANNOT just plug the heat source into the wall. You get burns and worse from that.
With these two, you create a temperature gradient and a hot spot. It all depends on what species you have. For mine, I have a range of 90 high to 80 low w/ a hotspot of 94~ that never gets used.

Next, hides. Preferably two that they can cram themselves into. One for each side of the gradient.

Lighting, placement not a big deal. Mine is in the center. It is plugged into a wall socket with a 24 hour timer. I got mine as 7:30am to 8:30am.

Food, slightly larger than the width of the body. Others can help you better on this than I and it constantly comes under debate there. As I recall, the older the further apart these meals using that same metric.

[Traaaaavis]

Here's the snake. I don't know what stage of shedding he's at but he's shedding a little.

[Traaaaavis]

And the tank. Like I said he dropped it off to me at work and the tank is filthy to me so I'm gonna clean it for sure tonight. The heat pad looks about the size of a sheet of paper. No thermostat

[Minkness]

Honestly, I would dump the bedding and just use some paper towels. Treat him as if he's from a stranger. Also, since he's shedding, try to give him a soak in luke warm water and use a damp cloth to gently rub it off.

[Traaaaavis]

Ok! I'll probably do paper towels temporarily. So get a thermostat, a hide or 2, and clean the tank are my first "to do's"

And I shouldn't try and feed him for a week or so? He said he hasn't eaten in about a month.....

[Minkness]

You can try to feed him once you are all set up. He may take it, he may not. I have had some snakes eat the same day I get them from being shipped. But others have gone on strike for months. Depends on the snake. I always like to offer.

[RAD House]

Yep and then read some ball python care sheets to better understand your animal. Here is a good one:
Ball Python (Python regius) Caresheet (http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-(Python-regius)-Caresheet)
As far as that shed goes it is no doubt a bad one but I would let him settle in for a few days before trying to deal with it. To help get that off soak him in a bath with just enough water to cover his body. The temperature of the water should be room temperature to slightly warmer. Let him sit in there for 30 minutes and the shed should start to come off. It may take more than one soak, but to avoid stressing him I would give him a day or two between soaks. Also as stated if he does not eat for you the first try do not freak out and just try again in 10 to 14 days. Feel free to ask us anymore questions you may have.

[Traaaaavis]

cool thank you guys


i got 2 hides, one on the side with the UTH and one on the other side. a temp probe for the UTH and thats it for now.

ill keep posting progress and pics.

im very excited on my new friend thanks again

[dannybgoode]

A temp probe whilst useful is not as essential as a stat. You MUST get a stat as soon as you possibly can-you are endangering the snake whilst ever you don't have one. I don't know about the States buy second hand stats are always coming up for cheap on Facebook groups and ebay so it needn't be a hide financial outlay.

Keep posting us updates and keep asking questions. There's a wealth of experience on here and we're only too happy to help.

[Minkness]

If a stat is too expensive right now I have heard of people using light dimmers. =)

Just something to think about.

[SnakeyJay]

If a stat is too expensive right now I have heard of people using light dimmers. =)

Just something to think about.

These give a false sense of safety... Get a massive spike in ambient temps and you could have problems...

[Minkness]

And yet, it's better than nothing at all.

[RAD House]

Here is an affordable thermostat.
https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473253932&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+reptile

[dannybgoode]

You also need to ensure the dimmer is of a suitable specification as there is the potential risk of overheating and even fire if the correct one isn't used. When running mains voltages through things it pays to be careful.

Fully paid up radio amateur geek so have an awareness of such things :)

[SnakeyJay]

And yet, it's better than nothing at all.

I didn't say it wasn't better than nothing... I was pointing out an issue before the OP encounters it.... Better it said before rather than afterwards when we see another "burn thread"... :)

[Minkness]

True enough! =D

[Traaaaavis]

yeah i need one of those asap! whats too hot for the UTH?

[Traaaaavis]

nm the care sheets explain that...so basically my probe thermometer was unnecessary and i should have bought a thermostat? i have to go to work and leave him unattended should i unplug the UTH so it doesnt get too hot while im gone?

[Minkness]

Yes, better no heat than excessive heat. Also, you can use a temp gun instead of a probe. Then you don't have to worry about the snake moving the probe. =)

[SnakeyJay]

Yes, better no heat than excessive heat. Also, you can use a temp gun instead of a probe. Then you don't have to worry about the snake moving the probe. =)

Gotta agree, that's something every reptile keeper should have... So much more precise for surface temperatures and you can instantly check the temp of anywhere in the Viv. No need to move the probe and wait for temps to re stabilise :)

[dannybgoode]

nm the care sheets explain that...so basically my probe thermometer was unnecessary and i should have bought a thermostat? i have to go to work and leave him unattended should i unplug the UTH so it doesnt get too hot while im gone?

It's good to have a thermometer as well to monitor the parameters as well so it's not wasted money by any means.

As you get on you'll acquire a few bits and bobs. Up front some feeding tongues/tweezers are a good idea, a temperature gun as already mentioned and the stat.

Don't need more than that to go with what you've already got...

[REM955]

Here is an affordable thermostat.
https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473253932&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+reptile

I have this book marked. I was actually thinking about grabbing it just to test it. Got here before me.

[Traaaaavis]

yep bought that termostat. primed it itll be here friday. also a humidity gauge. hes was chillin under the hide on the cold side for most of the night and came out for a bit to check out the rest of his tank. im pretty excited!

[SnakeyJay]

yep bought that termostat. primed it itll be here friday. also a humidity gauge. hes was chillin under the hide on the cold side for most of the night and came out for a bit to check out the rest of his tank. im pretty excited!

Happy days then, he'll be sorted soon and it sounds like he's in good hands anyway... :)

[Traaaaavis]

Ok so my roommate and I are having a debate about the heat lamp I have. On the care sheets I've read it talks about the overhead lamps for heat right? If I have the UTH I don't necessarily need the lamp correct? He's under the impression that the lamp needs to be on all day for heat. Let me add he's not a snake owner but he has chameleons and goes to our local serpantarium and he keeps going back too "why would they always have lights on their pythons?" I'm guessing cause they don't have UTHs..... Can someone reassure me about the heat? The tank should be around 80ish and the UTH side around 90 right?

[Andy_G]

The serpentarium has animals on display. It's very hard to do that without lights. :)

If you can achieve and maintain proper ambient temps without a light, then don't use one because it will sap humidity from the enclosure.

[Traaaaavis]

That's what I said! I said there are lights because they are selling the snakes haha

[RAD House]

Yep a snake that is nocturnal does not have need for uvb light like your friends diurnal chameleons do.

[nakabaka]

Just read through this thread and see they're suggesting things like thermostats and such. I didn't notice this mentioned, but I personally can't go without my IR (infra-red) temp gun. Just point it at the surface, holding it right at the surface you're measuring a temp on so you get less ambient reading as possible, and it gives you an idea of how well your thermostat is working (usually; I've had thermostats be faulty from the factory once or twice). Plus its fun to zap things around the house with it, if you're a bit of a nerd.

[Traaaaavis]

I'm go an try and feed him today. The previous owner said he was feeding him Small to medium rats not mice. Should I stick with that diet or what do you guys think? Also should I just feed him in his enclosure or what? Remember I'm new to this and browsing forums has some answers but not exactly to my questions.

[Traaaaavis]

Also I know you guys recommended leaving him alone for a bit to get used to his new setting but the previous owner (I talked to him a bit about the snake yesterday) said he should be ok cause it's the same tank and what not.... Any thoughts on that? I was gonna try and pick him up yesterday and he was a bit skiddish as I would gentle touch his back. It kind of startled me as I'm a new snake owner so I didn't pick him up. Do you think it was because he was kind of neglected before I got him or are they mostly like that?

[dannybgoode]

How long have you had him. Sorry you may have said before. I'd wait a good 2 weeks before trying to feed.

Also note bp's are notorious for not eating for weeks if not months at a time so don't be too alarmed if he doesn't take the prey.

[Traaaaavis]

This is my 3rd day. Same tank just new bedding and 2 new hides. Previous owner said he hasn't eaten in a month.

[EL Ziggy]

I'd get the temps and humidity dialed in and let the snake acclimate for a week before offering food. Waiting a few extra days to feed him won't hurt at all and will probably reduce the chances of a refusal.

[Traaaaavis]

Ok cool. Humidity gauge and thermostat will be here tomorrow morning. I'll wait til next week for food. And stick with rats?

[EL Ziggy]

If he's eating rats that's a good thing and you'll definitely want to keep him on rats. You can offer other prey items once he's eating consistently for you if you like.

[Traaaaavis]

Cool thanks. Appreciate the help everyone id rather ask these basic questions then guess what to do.

[dannybgoode]

Cool thanks. Appreciate the help everyone id rather ask these basic questions then guess what to do.

Keep asking! No one minds answering particularly when it's clear you want to learn and give your snake the best possible cars.

[SnakeyJay]

Keep asking! No one minds answering particularly when it's clear you want to learn and give your snake the best possible cars.

Hahah... Now I'm imagining a Royal/ball driving a car! 😂

[dannybgoode]

Hahah... Now I'm imagining a Royal/ball driving a car! 😂

I refer you to the autocorrect joke... :p

[SnakeyJay]

I refer you to the autocorrect joke... :p

Hahaha fair

[Traaaaavis]

Alright so I got my stat goin and humidity gauge in there. I decided to try and feed him today. He ate that rat so fast!! Haha I think he already likes his new home.

What's the key for humidity just spray water with a squirt bottle as necessary? I keep checkin the gauge and it keeps going down to about 40% should be around 50% right?

[Traaaaavis]

Here's his set up. I haven't had to use the lamp yet. Ambient temp is a steady 80ish all day. Probably have to during winter time when outside temps get lower.

[Traaaaavis]

Tank is 36x17x12 I believe

[RAD House]

Well done.

[Tsubaki]

Looks like a nice setup!

[dannybgoode]

Don't get too hung up on humidity. That said if you do want to keep it higher for longer then you need a substrate that holds moisture and you need to keep that sprayed.

The trick is to make sure it's holding moisture but is not constantly properly wet as a soggy substrates is likely to cause an RI. Personally except for specialist species (a GTP for eg) I think people often cause more harm by having the humidity too high than too low.

A humidity hide (suitable sized plastic food container with an entrance hole cut in it and some damp sphagnum moss in it) can be added when the snake is in shed or left in all the time. Just check it regularly to make sure a) the moss is still damp and b) that the snake hasn't deficated in there-typical place for them to go!.

Nice looking set up you've created though. Keep up the good work and you'll be rewarded with many years of happy snake ownership.

[Traaaaavis]

i forgot my password for so long but finally figured it out. a little update my python is doin good! he eats well and he lets me pick him up whenever. its cool! i do have a question tho now, we're in the winter months and my house doesn't stay too warm is it ok to leave my red light on all the time or should i turn it off at night or during the day or anything. its just a heat sorce correct? or will that bother him having a light all the time?

[dannybgoode]

i forgot my password for so long but finally figured it out. a little update my python is doin good! he eats well and he lets me pick him up whenever. its cool! i do have a question tho now, we're in the winter months and my house doesn't stay too warm is it ok to leave my red light on all the time or should i turn it off at night or during the day or anything. its just a heat sorce correct? or will that bother him having a light all the time?

Good to hear the snake is doing well. Well done on a good job. The snake will require heat at night but a red bulb may disturb it. Swap the bulb out for a ceramic heat bulb (also called a ceramic heat emitter)-that would work well for your setup.

[Andy_G]

The idea behind the red bulbs is that they can't see it...has there been research to disprove this Danny? You know I dislike bulbs just as you dislike uth's so I really do just want to know. :)

[RAD House]

I am with Danny on this one. They may not be able to see the red bulb, but they definitely can not see a che. The che seems to heat much more efficiently to.

[dannybgoode]

The idea behind the red bulbs is that they can't see it...has there been research to disprove this Danny? You know I dislike bulbs just as you dislike uth's so I really do just want to know. :)

I believe there has yes. I will try to find some papers. That said there is research to show that near visible infrared is a better source of heat (IR-A) than far infrared (IR-C) as it penetrates deeper in to muscle.

Therefore a basking bulb is a better choice during the day but not so good at night. For my lizard I therfore use a bulb as he does not need heat at night but as my snakes do I runeed a Che on them but when I get my monster vivs I'll set up a day/night combo of basking bulb/che.