General Questions

[UserNameIsValid]

Hey guys, my girlfriend wants to get a beardie and I just want to know the basics. How big of an enclosure do they need, how often do you feed them, what specific veggies, fruits, and insects are best for them, and my biggest hangup is, do they brumate? If they do, will keeping their heat the same prevent this? And who should I buy the beardie from?

[SnakeyJay]

I don't keep beardie's unfortunately... Hopefully someone will be along soon to give you some advice.

[dannybgoode]

4x2x2 viv, they need high uv (t5 12% is considered the minimum these days). They work really well in a sandy bioactive viv. They need to be able to get within 6-8" of the uv source (no closer) and a basking spot around 40-45c.

Usual requirements on being able to thermoregulate AND photoregulate-that is to be able to get away from the uv source also.

I keep a Timon lepidus (way more interesting than a bearded imo :)-see my 'Meet Julius' general lizard forum for more details) and their care is similar. I use an Arcadia D5 uv light which is compact but very powerful so it allows very high uv at one end of the viv and much less at the other.

You would normally have the highest uv concentration at the basking spot also so the lizard gets max uv whilst basking which is pretty much what would happen in the wild.

Diet is the usually crickets, locusts and roaches together with green veg dusted with a suitable calcium supplement most feeds and a broad spectrum vitamin supplement one or twice a week.

Do not cohabit them and do not breed them. They are thoroughly overbred and most are purchased very cheap and poorly looked after.

Remember the purchase cost of a correct setup will far far exceed the cost of the lizard as will the ongoing electricity bills and food but that is true of most lizards these days.

Also, whilst many become insanely tame they should not be out of the viv for any more than 30 mins at a time really. They need that high uv and heat and letting them chill around the house causes long term harm.

[SnakeyJay]

4x2x2 viv, they need high uv (t5 12% is considered the minimum these days). They work really well in a sandy bioactive viv. They need to be able to get within 6-8" of the uv source (no closer) and a basking spot around 40-45c.

Usual requirements on being able to thermoregulate AND photoregulate-that is to be able to get away from the uv source also.

I keep a Timon lepidus (way more interesting than a bearded imo :)-see my 'Meet Julius' general lizard forum for more details) and their care is similar. I use an Arcadia D5 uv light which is compact but very powerful so it allows very high uv at one end of the viv and much less at the other.

You would normally have the highest uv concentration at the basking spot also so the lizard gets max uv whilst basking which is pretty much what would happen in the wild.

Diet is the usually crickets, locusts and roaches together with green veg dusted with a suitable calcium supplement most feeds and a broad spectrum vitamin supplement one or twice a week.

Do not cohabit them and do not breed them. They are thoroughly overbred and most are purchased very cheap and poorly looked after.

Remember the purchase cost of a correct setup will far far exceed the cost of the lizard as will the ongoing electricity bills and food but that is true of most lizards these days.

Also, whilst many become insanely tame they should not be out of the viv for any more than 30 mins at a time really. They need that high uv and heat and letting them chill around the house causes long term harm.

Cheers mate, I was just commenting to bring attention to the post :)

[UserNameIsValid]

Thanks for the help guys, hoping for some more answers so I can make a definite decision, and dannybgoode, I love the look of jeweled lacertas!

[dannybgoode]

Thanks for the help guys, hoping for some more answers so I can make a definite decision, and dannybgoode, I love the look of jeweled lacertas!

And similar to a bearded in so many ways just much more cool ;)

[nakabaka]

Got a few things to add if this thread is still being watched, as I've bred beardies.

Everything above but here's a few added things. Look up which veggies are bad to feed even its food. Beet tops, spinach, kale, for example. They contain a compound that binds to calcium the lizard ingests in its digestive tract, much like D3 would, thus inhibiting calcium uptake and possibly causing MTB. Bad business. Some bugs are even poisonous, such as fireflies. If you haven't grown it yourself or can't get it "organic" I wouldn't feed it to the lil' guy. THIS paragraph goes for pretty much any lizard.

Have a dubia colony firing off the hook before bringing a beardie home, especially if hatchling. Those guys are like pubescent teenagers on your grocery bill, and having an overage in dubia production will only help you as it will eat 15-20 crickets a day, possibly nearly as many dubia nymphs. Keep in mind its the nymphs you want to feed a hatchling, and with how much it will eat, you still need nymph surplus to grow up and keep the breeding cycle going. Same as feeding the beardie, avoid those foods which will inhibit calcium uptake. What goes into its food will enter it.

About dubia roaches. Best darn feeder insect I've ever used. Doesn't bite, doesn't stink, doesn't make noise, if one gets out it'll just be filet migon for a spider even if it's preggers, extremely easy and cheap to maintain. Most expensive part will be the roaches. I like having about 13 females per male, and a 2nd box for the nymphs/juveniles as I clean their tubs out. Do not go cheap and just go ahead and buy the egg crates for their tubs, and don't forget the packing tape. You can find how-to's on YouTube.

If you can't get those sexy 12% UVB bulbs, go with a pair of 10% bulbs. Won't hurt one bit. Set up for its adult enclosure from the get-go and feed it in a smaller box. 40g breeder is absolute MINIMUM for adult, with footprint over height (have very LOW height if at all possible). He will use the footprint to move around, plus the shorter height means less wattage needed on your basking light for ample temps, and more UVB will penetrate to the floor of your enclosure.

Hope this helps anyone interested.

Oh, one correction to the above. Do NOT use sandy substrate. That might impact them as they have a habit of "testing" stuff to see if it's edible. Use reptile carpet, even over newspaper. Best thing you can put in there as a beardie substrate. Also, put a stone slate in there too. Not a tile, but a slate piece. It'll help with their claws.

[dannybgoode]

Got a few things to add if this thread is still being watched, as I've bred beardies.

Everything above but here's a few added things. Look up which veggies are bad to feed even its food. Beet tops, spinach, kale, for example. They contain a compound that binds to calcium the lizard ingests in its digestive tract, much like D3 would, thus inhibiting calcium uptake and possibly causing MTB. Bad business. Some bugs are even poisonous, such as fireflies. If you haven't grown it yourself or can't get it "organic" I wouldn't feed it to the lil' guy. THIS paragraph goes for pretty much any lizard.

Have a dubia colony firing off the hook before bringing a beardie home, especially if hatchling. Those guys are like pubescent teenagers on your grocery bill, and having an overage in dubia production will only help you as it will eat 15-20 crickets a day, possibly nearly as many dubia nymphs. Keep in mind its the nymphs you want to feed a hatchling, and with how much it will eat, you still need nymph surplus to grow up and keep the breeding cycle going. Same as feeding the beardie, avoid those foods which will inhibit calcium uptake. What goes into its food will enter it.

About dubia roaches. Best darn feeder insect I've ever used. Doesn't bite, doesn't stink, doesn't make noise, if one gets out it'll just be filet migon for a spider even if it's preggers, extremely easy and cheap to maintain. Most expensive part will be the roaches. I like having about 13 females per male, and a 2nd box for the nymphs/juveniles as I clean their tubs out. Do not go cheap and just go ahead and buy the egg crates for their tubs, and don't forget the packing tape. You can find how-to's on YouTube.

If you can't get those sexy 12% UVB bulbs, go with a pair of 10% bulbs. Won't hurt one bit. Set up for its adult enclosure from the get-go and feed it in a smaller box. 40g breeder is absolute MINIMUM for adult, with footprint over height (have very LOW height if at all possible). He will use the footprint to move around, plus the shorter height means less wattage needed on your basking light for ample temps, and more UVB will penetrate to the floor of your enclosure.

Hope this helps anyone interested.

Oh, one correction to the above. Do NOT use sandy substrate. That might impact them as they have a habit of "testing" stuff to see if it's edible. Use reptile carpet, even over newspaper. Best thing you can put in there as a beardie substrate. Also, put a stone slate in there too. Not a tile, but a slate piece. It'll help with their claws.

Out of interest why not a sandy substrate? I don't mean just sand but a reasonable sand content to an overall mix of a nice bioactive substrate. All other husbandry being good and the animal in good health then imo this is the way to go over any carpet or newspapers.

They ingest dirt in the wild after all...

[UserNameIsValid]

@Nakabaka, great info! Thanks for your input! Do they always brumate though? Or will keeping the heat even year round prevent this?

[dannybgoode]

Still disagree with the substrate. By all means look at the pros and cons but these days with the other tools at our disposal to ensure optimum husbandry the whole 'don't use loose substrates' thing is very outdated advice.

Reptile carpet has issues of its own if not replaced regularly and I'd take a good bioactive mix any day. Your bearded will not suffer from compaction etc and as I say in the wild they'll ingest bits of dirt when burrowing and feeding.

Plenty more advice on bioactive in the natural vivarium section of the forum...

[nakabaka]

Yes, they ingest it in the wild, but that is also a factor that limits their lifespan int he wild. For example, my sister had a raccoon she raised from a baby. In the wild, their lifespan is 4-5 years due to predators, poisoned food (they do scavange), being hit by cars, falling from trees, etc. Peewee's lifespan was 13 years. Ingesting too much dirt over time is one of these factors for beardies. In this regard, NO, it isn't outdated.

And yes, reptile carpet DOES have issues, mostly bacterial buildup, which really is no different from other substrates and the reason you clean it from time to time. You toss it in the wash by itself, dry on low, bam. Never had an issue so long as you don't use softener or scented soaps. Just as easy to spot clean and easier to swap out. All in all, reptile carpet is my go-to for herps that don't require much humidity and don't need to burrow. So far as burrowing, mine never felt the need even when I did try loose substrate.

For brumation, no idea, as mine always did. However, as others online on other forums have noticed, it seems to be the time of year they're hatched that matters for their first brumation. Hatchlings that popped later in the year tended not to brumate that first year. For their brumation, just keep the ambient temp at no less than 60, keep lights off, keep a hide large enough for him/her in there, and place the enclosure out of traffic's way (as in another room where you don't have fumes from chemicals and such) so as to avoid bothering said beardie. He will come to on his own, and yes it's normal for it not to even get up to drink. Do not feed it during this period either, as not having heat can make the food spoil in its stomach and poison it. Even if it will eat and u keep the heat light on for a couple hours after, it COULD get impacted by not waking up to do its business; had an issue with this once.

[nakabaka]

So far as bioactive subs are concerned, I personally wouldn't trust human tech over nature. We tend to come up with AWESOME ideas then years later end up with cancer and other issues. Granted reptile carpet is tech, but it seems to work better than other stuff I've tried. If it works for you, then, I mean, I'm not God or anything.

[dannybgoode]

Bioactive IS nature and not human tech. Its precisely that and couldn't be more natural if it tried! o you even know what bioactive is (genuine question and not having a dig but from your response it seems not) as there's no human tech to it at all!

In the past when it was much harder to get the rest of the basic husbandry requirements right - UV, high temp basking spots etc then yes impaction etc was an issue. Things have moved on massively though with high power UV bulbs, decent radiant heat emitters, much more advanced thermostats etc all being readily affordable to hobby herper helping them to ensure the husbandry parameters are correct.

This in turn means that using a bioactive substrate is an entirely viable, if not very desirable, choice that should be considered.

My T. Lepidus has come on in leaps and bounds since I changed him over and the general upkeep of the viv is a doddle now. And yes, saying that loose substrate should be avoided IS out of date advice.

Sure, you may have a preference for carpet - fine - but to say that something else is wrong and causes problems is not fine when this is not the case (all other husbandry factors being where they should be).

[SnakeyJay]

Bioactive IS nature and not human tech. Its precisely that and couldn't be more natural if it tried! o you even know what bioactive is (genuine question and not having a dig but from your response it seems not) as there's no human tech to it at all!

In the past when it was much harder to get the rest of the basic husbandry requirements right - UV, high temp basking spots etc then yes impaction etc was an issue. Things have moved on massively though with high power UV bulbs, decent radiant heat emitters, much more advanced thermostats etc all being readily affordable to hobby herper helping them to ensure the husbandry parameters are correct.

This in turn means that using a bioactive substrate is an entirely viable, if not very desirable, choice that should be considered.

My T. Lepidus has come on in leaps and bounds since I changed him over and the general upkeep of the viv is a doddle now. And yes, saying that loose substrate should be avoided IS out of date advice.

Sure, you may have a preference for carpet - fine - but to say that something else is wrong and causes problems is not fine when this is not the case (all other husbandry factors being where they should be).

Gotta agree here, I keep all my cave gecko species on a bioactive substrate... There is no bacterial build up, that's the point of "bioactive".... The organisms break down any waste etc..

I even have shed skins disaapeared within a night. :)

[dannybgoode]

It is great to see a lizard dropping completely covered in various organisms within minutes of them being deposited and then gone completely within hours. The cycle of life at the max...

[nakabaka]

danybgoode I didn't say it is WRONG, I said it WASN'T OUTDATED. I still wouldn't trust it, personally. Do what you will, but don't attack someone just because they don't agree with you. That's childish.

I know what you are referring to as bioactive substrate. The one I commonly use in many lizard tanks is referred to as ABG mix, and NO, I wouldn't put a beardie in that. In order for it to work at its best, it HAS to have larger clumps. Even so, I still wouldn't put anything that it might possibly ingest in there. And as I said, to each their own, though. ABG is downright awesome for stuff like frogs, geckos and anoles, though.

[dannybgoode]

Looking at abg substrate I wouldn't use it for a lizard but I would (and do) mix my own using soil, sand and gravel. Nor does abg look to be bioactive as such but it could be turned into it.

You need to chuck in the clean up crew (woodlice, springtails, a nice chunk of routing wood from the forest full of all kinds of organisms, meal worms etc) to make it bio.

Bioactive isn't the Kuroiwae per se. It's all the critters that get chucked in to help keep the place spick and span that's the magic. Never have to clean your viv again or change the substrate. You have your own mini ecosystem.

Oh and some plants if you like. Alfalfa works really well with beardeds. Some succulents are going in with some grass with my lepidus.

[nakabaka]

Yes, it DOES start off pretty sterile (as I guess you'd put it), but that is the beauty of it! You can tailor it exactly to your needs. More peat or spaghnum if you need more humidity, more fern fiber and bark if you need more structure, more of a specific organism if you need that. And no, it is definitely NOT for certain things. I love it for arboreal stuff, as they rarely are on the ground to get harmed by the sticks and whatnot, but I've never had ANY issues with maintaining very high humidity levels for certain species that need it (such as 75-85, maybe 90%), nor have I had any issues with having to add any "bio critters", as I guess you call them (I know it as "microfauna"). Ok, so maybe terminology is what hung me up on the whole putting a beardie, specifically, in with "bio substrate." I still wouldn't personally. But again, to each their own.

I never did like top soil for this sort of thing (I'd imagine that's what you mean by "dirt"), it always gets bogged down easy and bleeds into the drainage layer, in my experience. Component substrates such as ABG can get moisture throughout without being bogged down. And depending on the type of material you use in the drainage layer (such as expanded clay), it can wick that moisture back up from below, helping keep it moist throughout the substrate without it becoming swampy.

However, in this kind of sub, you DO need to change it every 6 months or so, but totally worth it in my opinion. The parts that give it structure tend to break down. The structure gives it those extra pockets for beneficial bacteria to grow, moisture pockets to form, and air to get down into the substrate for plants roots. Only reason you'd use this is if you're planting a viv, which is the best kind of viv for many species. I absolutely love ABG because of its versatility.

[dannybgoode]

Yes, but that is the beauty of it! You can tailor it exactly to your needs. More peat or spaghnum if you need more humidity, more fern fiber and bark if you need more structure, more of a specific organism if you need that. And yes, it is definitely for certain things. I love it for arboreal stuff, as they rarely are on the ground to get harmed by the sticks and whatnot, but I've never had ANY issues with very high humidity levels for certain species that need it, not have I had any issues with having to add any "bio critters", as I guess you call them (I know it as "microfauna"). Ok, so maybe terminology is what hung me up on the whole putting a beardie specifically in "bio substrate." I still wouldn't personally. But again, to each their own.

I never did like top soil for this sort of thing (I'd imagine that's what you mean by "dirt"), it always gets bogged down easy and bleeds into the drainage layer, in my opinion.

However, in this kind of sub, you DO need to change it ever 6 months or so. The parts that give it structure tend to break down. The structure gives it those extra pockets for beneficial bacteria to grow, moisture pockets to form, and air to get down into the substrate for plants roots. Only reason you'd use this is if you're planting a viv, which is the best kind of viv for many species. I absolutely love ABG because of its versatility.

Again - it depends on the substrate as to whether it needs replacing. I would never replace a mature dirt / sand mixture because it is exactly that - a mature ecosystem. It takes a few months to get it mature and fully working so you'd just be chucking away all the hard work and starting again. Ask some of the Savannah monitor keepers on here when they last changed their substrate!

The worms and bugs keep it aerated and it doe snot break down in the way say ABG would that has a much higher vegetative content. Sand and dirt do not break down much further than they already are and for lizards the whole thing is kept reasonably dry (30-40% humidity under the top layer and very dry at the surface.

[nakabaka]

I've had a Nile, and I used top soil only because it was more cost effective. I never put worms or anything in there, I spot cleaned, I replaced every couple weeks, and I never had an issue. AND I had turned a bedroom into a habitat for her. So as far as monitors are concerned, I guess they're going to the extreme. My mentioning ABG was just an example of what I know as a bio substrate. Might check into what you're talking about though, as I am considering firing up another anole tank. The stuff you're talking about sounds much like a marine tank, so to speak. I still like the idea of soil having structure, though.

[dannybgoode]

I've had a Nile, and I used top soil only because it was more cost effective. I never put worms or anything in there, I spot cleaned, I replaced every couple weeks, and I never had an issue. AND I had turned a bedroom into a habitat for her. So as far as monitors are concerned, I guess they're going to the extreme. My mentioning ABG was just an example of what I know as a bio substrate. Might check into what you're talking about though, as I am considering firing up another anole tank. The stuff you're talking about sounds much like a marine tank, so to speak. I still like the idea of soil having structure, though.

The marine tank is a good analogy yes. It is a complete living ecosystem. Look on the varanid forum for some ideas on the whole concept.

The soil has structure so to speak as there is gravel in there as well as sand and then with the bugs (and lizard in my case) tunnelling and the plant roots it all works very well.

A bedroom is a good way to go with a Nile but given that for Savannah's now for example the thining is a good 2' of substrate so they can burrow properly changing a couple of tons of substrate every month would be a significant undertaking!

[nakabaka]

Ya, I don't know much about sav's. My nile needed quite a bit, with a large child's pool at the least. Had to reinforce it from below in the basement. Was a bit of a renovation project in itself but was fun. She had full run of the house, usually found her basking on the sofa (which was in direct sunlight) in preference to her basking lamps. Vet checkups always came back in the clear for d3 and calcium levels and such, so I didn't worry too much about heat as she did always bask in there after a meal. I'd LOVE to get a blue tree monitor, those are beautiful.

Anyway, ya, I'll check that out then given the analogy, for my own upcoming uses.

[nakabaka]

Question though, with that type of setup. And here is why I've preferred ABG over anything else, given I need to replace it for structure, anyway. My anole tanks, frog tanks, etc.. have always ended up going low on stuff like springtails and other stuff that I put in there, because, well, they become food for the animals I kept. I've had to replace them along way anyway. So, does the way you set it up create a surplus of these things, or do you replace along the way too, or what?

[dannybgoode]

I replace them from time to time but I've also introduced some microorganisms. I picked a suitable chunk of rotting wood from the local forest and chucked that it.

Introduced all manner of interesting beasties that are far too small to become food. Next time I see a dropping with these tiny white organisms all over it I'll post a picture.

This is why the substrate has to mature and get the micro stuff in there as well as the bigger creatures.

Plants will go in mine at the weekend to finish it off. Plants are a little more difficult with a bearded as they eat them but as I say alfalfa is a good choice.

You have much more choice with an insect only lizard.

[nakabaka]

Ya, I wouldn't put plants in given how fast a beardie will chomp on them. Just never had any luck with keeping plants THERE with them, lol.