Removing heavy duty screen clips...

[Sevvy]

This might be a silly question, but can anybody please tell me how to remove Zilla heavy duty screen clips? I put them on, and now I can't do maintenance until I figure out how to take them off again! I guess they're doing their job, at least! :p

[Tsubaki]

Hello Sevvy, welcome to ssnakess! I am sure someone will come along with the right answer, wish I was of any use but I'm not familiar with the system. Consider sticking around and introducing yourself in the "new to the forum" subforum! :D

[macandchz]

are you talking about the kind that clip over the side of the tank?

[Sevvy]

are you talking about the kind that clip over the side of the tank?

Yeah, I am. I just can't figure out how to get it off...

[chairman]

Zilla - Where Reptiles Rule » Screen Cover Clips | Products (http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/screen-cover-clips.htm)

I assume that you're talking about these. They should be connected under the plastic rim of the aquarium and between the metal frame & screen of the lid. It is usually easier to get the clip off the front of the screen since there's less to grab on to there. Gently press the corner of the clip towards the top-middle of the screen, it should come off.

[Sevvy]

I assume that you're talking about these. They should be connected under the plastic rim of the aquarium and between the metal frame & screen of the lid. It is usually easier to get the clip off the front of the screen since there's less to grab on to there. Gently press the corner of the clip towards the top-middle of the screen, it should come off.

Thanks. Yes, I do mean those. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by the top middle of the screen, though? I tried pushing them inwards, but they still won't come off.

[Hank]

I had to put a slight custom bend to mine and to remove, I grab the top of the clips squeezing my fingers under the top lip sides, then lift. OR a small screwdriver to slip under the top and gently lift. No problems for me... THEN to re-install, hook the lower lip first and slide the top over the screen and you will hear a click-in-place. Eazy-Peazy :D

[Sevvy]

I had to put a slight custom bend to mine and to remove, I grab the top of the clips squeezing my fingers under the top lip sides, then lift. OR a small screwdriver to slip under the top and gently lift. No problems for me... THEN to re-install, hook the lower lip first and slide the top over the screen and you will hear a click-in-place. Eazy-Peazy :D

Thank you SO MUCH! You're a lifesaver! I used the screw driver method (well, flat wrench, really) and it worked!

Er, if I might ask you guys another question since I don't want to make too many threads... About how long have you found that the zoomed reptitherm UTH heater takes to work? I installed it yesterday and right now I'm only getting a temperature gradient of 1.5 degrees if my thermometer is right.

[Andy_G]

Where is your thermometer located? You should be measuring the actual surface that the UTH is in direct contact with, preferably with a temp gun which can be purchased for a very small cost.

[Sevvy]

Where is your thermometer located? You should be measuring the actual surface that the UTH is in direct contact with, preferably with a temp gun which can be purchased for a very small cost.

Ah, that might explain it then. The thermometer was a few inches above the bedding, so I moved it, but there's still some bedding and glass between it and the heater.

[Andy_G]

Sevvy, you want to measure the glass that's in contact with the heat pad on the inside of the tank. Almost all snake species like to burrow, milksnakes included, and you want to ensure that it isn't too hot. Most milksnakes do very well with a room temp ambient and only a "hot spot" or "basking spot". Furthermore, you never want to measure anywhere where the snake can't get to, as hot air rises and your snake won't be hovering above the bedding. All you have to do until you get a temp gun (I think you can get one for around $15 at a hardware store there...they're more expensive here but not by much) is put the thermometer directly on the glass and monitor it. Heat pads don't raise ambient temps very effectively so that's why you aren't seeing much difference.

Another thing that you may not know is that you should invest in some kind of controlling device to restrict the heat output of the heat mat. They can get much too hot if left to run "open". A rheostat/dimmer switch/thermostat would all be appropriate options for you.

[SWDK]

I find it easiest to remove the from the bottom side that attaches to the plastic rim of the tank. Just slightly pull down until the clip unlatches. They are quite stiff the first few times.

[Hank]

Hey Sevvi,
Not to start a "top heat" vs "bottom heat" war, but, I have taken the opinion that a CHE (Ceramic Heater Element) overhead is best for my "Monty" yea - Python, for her warm side. I have a 40G breeder that maybe viewed as too large a home for my 20 inch buddy, but, if you are trying to achieve a recommended warm/cool side, it will be difficult at best if the home is not large enuf to permit a recommended thermal gradient for our legless buddies. I have switched to small cardboard boxes (now a 4x4 cube = 2 hides cut in half) and a slightly larger 6x6 box (also trim-able for 2 hides) as a warm hide. With the CHE overhead (150 watt unit powered at about 50% via a common light dimmer), the inside top of the hide is a nice 90 degrees which makes for a "warm cave" hide. I also recommend a 20 buck IR gun thermometer for spot-on temp readings. The above 90 degree reading is on the inside top of the box whiled the radiated temp on the Aspen floor is a good 88 degrees. What I did was make damn sure that my 40G home was set up and fine-tuned a couple of days AHEAD OF TIME before bringing home Monty. One thing to remember is that in buying/using heating or illuminating lamps, I have found that there is not an EXACT wattage that will be right for your conditions, so, the larger wattages controlled with a dimmer works great. In addition to fine tuning your heating and lighting requirements, you will find that ANY heater/light will last almost forever since it is being operated at much reduced power. AND for the cooler months it is easy to turn-up the heat a bit, (be sure to measure), to keep our friends safe and warm.

[Sevvy]

Hmm, well I've already ordered a temp gun on Amazon so it should be getting here in about a week. I think It hasn't shipped yet so I might add the temp controller to my order... Have you ever bought a good one on there?

Hank, my tank is 18 inches tall. I feel like that's tall enough for a some of the heat to disperse once it reaches the bottom, so overhead may not be the best option for me. I might get a higher wattage heating pad, though, since I'll probably want another few degrees of heat on the hot spot.

[Andy_G]

This one works pretty well...some people have mixed feelings on it, though. It's a decent starter thermostat, but not as good as a herpstat.

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471896821&sr=8-1&keywords=jump+start+thermostat

[Hank]

Hmm, well I've already ordered a temp gun on Amazon so it should be getting here in about a week. I think It hasn't shipped yet so I might add the temp controller to my order... Have you ever bought a good one on there?

Hank, my tank is 18 inches tall. I feel like that's tall enough for a some of the heat to disperse once it reaches the bottom, so overhead may not be the best option for me. I might get a higher wattage heating pad, though, since I'll probably want another few degrees of heat on the hot spot.

My description of having a large enuf tank was to mean in the "length" or distance between warm/cool sides. Kinda like a hallway having the distance between the two not like being in the same small room (I.E. bathroom. What ever makes your boat float.... Check the temps and check again. You will appreciate the IR temp gun for sure.... NO snake cooking allowed :D

[dannybgoode]

Definitely get a thermostat. You're asking for trouble without one. If you're using a uth then make sure your probe is so positioned to make sure the mat does not get too hot-don't positron it somewhere to measure ambient air temp as the mat will be running full blast to try and heat the viv up.

I'm with Hank and prefer overhead had and again a thermostat would stop it getting to hot even in a low viv. My vivs are only 18-20" high and I have no problems running 150W ceramic heaters.

[Sevvy]

This one works pretty well...some people have mixed feelings on it, though. It's a decent starter thermostat, but not as good as a herpstat.

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471896821&sr=8-1&keywords=jump+start+thermostat

Thanks! I added it to my order. I also switched from a zoo med temp gun to a PE2, so I hope that's worth it cuz I'm running out of gift cards :p