Getting a Hognose (eventually)

[Magdalen]

Eventually, meaning a month or so. I have a deposit on one while I get the tank set up and watch the temps and do a ton of research. The one I am getting will be a year old male on the 14th. Captive bred of course, that eats f/t mice.
I live in an area where there is little humidity and summers get quite warm. I like to keep my apartment around 78 degrees. I can't have it any higher than that really, because I also have a rabbit, but without AC my apartment becomes an oven.

Anyway I'd love to see your hognose set up and pictures of the noodles to give me ideas :)

Oh lighting... does anyone here use UV lighting with their hogs?

Anything else I should know that I've forgotten?

[Lefitte]

Congrats! Hognoses are great! One thing I didn't know when I got mine was how active they are. I really wasn't expecting it and it's been a pleasant surprise. Unless she's just eaten, my Hoggle is out roaming her cage throughout the day and it's really fun to watch. We keep our house at 79-84 with a/c but typically around 81 is where it hovers so she has a heat pad. I don't use UV.

Here's my little one:
https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13450971_10209929758625691_6870117925734247369_n.j pg?oh=3c989b5bbc5b4620b755db3ec4a9b0ae&oe=57FCE317

https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13495136_10209929757065652_3753164243556277282_n.j pg?oh=6a351135e749939655c89d13c355f2df&oe=58030504

She's about 7 months old now, 10inches, 20g. Her setup is very simple and she's in a small cage so simple is about all I can do.
https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13315218_10209768619797321_1020089235956102429_n.j pg?oh=4731ed7dfa3e0c98cf3b83bf533bc8e7&oe=57EF3E43
Excuse the cat and the mess.
https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13315321_10209738432922668_8560627583782451732_n.j pg?oh=7fa944a5c402a1de68ae42fd5d686ac8&oe=57C5DBB5
Also, she enjoys redecorating so getting a water dish that he can't knock over would be a very good idea. Though do be aware of evaporation. That stone material hers is made of mixed with the dry environment in my area and the small amount of water it holds means that within a week it can evaporate completely dry so you'll be refilling every few days if you don't do it with the daily checks as it is.

Yeah, my girl has been nothing but sweet as can be. Doesn't even huff when I get into her cage just kind of looks out of her hide like "What do?". She also has the most colorful and interesting sheds of all my snakes.

[Magdalen]

oooooh she's darling :)

Yeah I live in a pretty dry area and my five gallon fish tank is always evaporating. I have a good sized some what light water dish for him (might have to change that). He's a hefty guy I was told he's at 70g. I've got the heating pad set up and running.... it's a tad high, especially on the glass. Once I move it up to the middle of the aspen it cools a little. But I'm excited! I keep finding old information online, especially about whether they are vemonous or not. Whether there bite does a lot of damage or not. I mean yeah I'll be careful of course, but I'd still like to handle him.

Do you feed in a different container?

[trailblazer295]

What do you mean move it up to the middle of the aspen?

[Lefitte]

I was wondering that too. If using a heatmat it should be attached to the glass under the tank on the outside and regulated by a thermostat otherwise you run the risk of burns (seen pics, not pretty). From what I've read, they ARE venomous as they have the gland for it (forgot the gland's name) that's what gives them their chipmunk cheeks. But the venom is so mild that in humans it's more like an allergic reaction to it. Some people swell a lot for a few weeks, some people swell very little, and some bites have no reaction or dont have venom injected. Since they're rear-fanged, they have to chew on you to really inject any venom in the first place. I've heard of one recent case on here of a severe reaction but I believe the person had other medical issues that complicated healing so it was very rare.

I don't feed in a separate container so unfortunately that does mean that Hoggle's pinkies end up with aspen on them when I feed and she hates when I set down towels or anything. But I keep the temps up to digest and there shouldnt ever be a problem. Once her food is more furred, it will be much less of an issue anyway. I feed all of mine in the cage. There is very little reason to feed outside, but some people prefer it. The cage aggression thing is a big myth. Just dont smell like food and give them a warning before picking them up and they wont think you're food. I make sure to touch each of my snakes before trying to grab them. It makes sure they're awake and helps snap them out of feeding mode.

[trailblazer295]

They are classified as mildly venomous and yes rear fanged venomous. But due to the crudeness of the delivery system (chewing the venom in) and the mildness of the venom not classified as a HOT like cobras, rattlers etc. But individuals reaction will vary, be aware it's a potential risk regardless how low it is you'll be bitten and then you'd have to let it chew on you. If you are okay with this risk then go for it. If this isn't something you're okay with then I would look at other snakes.

[Magdalen]

Sorry I wrote that when tired haha. The UTH is on the outside on the glass on the bottom of the tank. I have the aspen a couple of inches deep if not more. The temp on the glass right above the matt is about 100 and then when I move the probe up an inch but still buried in the aspen it goes down a few degrees. When I have the probe on top of the aspen and not buried the temp is at about 90 with a night drop of 86. Hopefully that makes sense. I have a few weeks before he gets here to play with the temps. Cool side is high 70s with humidity at about 45%.

Anyway I'm ok with the risk but I plan to be extra careful around him. I know they are a pretty laid back snake but that also depends on the snake. Always wash my hands before handling him, feed with tongs. And well if he doesn't take to handling then I'm ok with that and he can be more of a display snake.

Ah yes when I had a snake years ago everyone said feed outside and I did. But I'd rather not handle too much after they've just eaten. Now I've been seeing more people say ok to feed inside tank.

[Andy_G]

Feeding in a seperate container in almost all situations does nothing but stress out the captive. Be sure to measure whatever the snake can touch...in this case bare glass under all the substrate...and modify that one so it's at the proper level. A hognose will spend a great deal of it's time while digesting completely burrowed against that very spot.

[Magdalen]

Great Andy. Thanks! You know that's what I thought and I made the aspen pretty deep on that spot. I knew the UTH would get a little hot but the surface temp confused me.

[trailblazer295]

You have to make sure the surface temperature of the glass is safe. By nature hogs burrow but even my BP would move all the substrate from his hide and have his belly on the pvc. By nature they seek warmth when digesting and will get as close as they can.

[Magdalen]

So I pick up my guy today after work :D After a few delays he ended up having to be shipped to the nearest FedEx, since I am not home in the mornings. I wish I could get out of work early but we're slammed here. At least he'll be indoors.

Anyway since he's a year old, how often should he be fed? When do they reach their full grown adult size? I'm not expecting to see him grow too much and I do like watching the babies grow, but his picture spoke to me. I've learned to listen to that.

[Andy_G]

Every 5 days is fine for hognose. Their growth rate significantly slows down at the 3 year mark.

[Ian of Oldham]

Heat mat under a glass will crack it and your snake will cut itself on the crack, you are better with a lamp


2 Royals 1 Corn 1 Boa 1 Carpet and a mad Cat.

[Andy_G]

Heat mat under a glass will crack it and your snake will cut itself on the crack, you are better with a lamp


2 Royals 1 Corn 1 Boa 1 Carpet and a mad Cat.

Respectfully, the above statement is incorrect. You should never use a heat mat or a heat pad without controlling it's output with a thermostat or rheostat. A controlled heat mat is MUCH better than using a lamp (doesn't dry out the air, lasts longer, less wattage being used) and will not crack the glass. The only circumstance where a lamp should be used with a snake is if your ambient temps are too cool.

[Magdalen]

Respectfully, the above statement is incorrect. You should never use a heat mat or a heat pad without controlling it's output with a thermostat or rheostat. A controlled heat mat is MUCH better than using a lamp (doesn't dry out the air, lasts longer, less wattage being used) and will not crack the glass. The only circumstance where a lamp should be used with a snake is if your ambient temps are too cool.

Yeah agree with Andy here. I have the mat controlled with a thermostat (didn't like the rheostat). Plus the YEARS (about 12) that I had leopard geckos (and the sand boa) with matts not once has the glass cracked. Mind these tanks are on stands that are open in the middle so there is a lot of air flow under the tank.
Also this is a fish tank so the glass is much thicker than standard reptile glass tanks. One time I had crack the glass was me lifting the tank (thinner reptile glass) and I squeezed too hard and it cracked.

Ian, I'm curious, has that happened to you or someone you know?

[Magdalen]

And since I forgot...he arrived at the FedEx!! My friend who works there is keeping an eye on him/his box. He likes snakes too.

[dannybgoode]

Radiant heat emitters (bulbs, ceramic bulbs, radiant heat panels etc) ate better in some situations. I wouldn't use one for a heavy bodied snake or a very long snake but a uth can be very effective for smaller species.

Uth's are also essentially useless for most lizards where a specific basking spot is required or for an arboreal species where they will rarely be anywhere near the uth.

It's wrong to condemn either solution as it depends on the species being kept (I've been guilty of condemning uth's is the past but was not fully up on how to properly use them).

In any event, whatever the heat source a thermostat must be used. If you're using a bulb, ceramic heat emitter or radiant panel then a guard must be used. End of, no debate...

[Magdalen]

Oh I agree Danny, they work with some animals. I had them with leopard geckos, that needed the belly heat. And the sand boa, which never came out from the aspen anyway, except at night. I normally have kept (small) nocturnal animals anyway so the UTH works for my needs.

And it definitely has a thermostat :)