Large sterilite clip-on lid tub, how secure is it?

[Arachnaeoccult]

Sylvester should feel a lot more secure now that he has room to breath. I did away with the 10 gallon, scrubbed it, and put the baby corn snake in it (its not the 'best' size but its not going to kill him). Sylvester (5 foot long honduran milksnake) seems to be happily exploring the length and width which he never had before (not in his five years of life).


http://s11.postimg.org/be0kw1x2r/IMG_3286_1.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4aspgfrn3/full/)
20mb image hosting (http://postimage.org/)



I've already caught him pushing on the lid. He would need to pop off the clips. Other than the books in the middle or the side I can't think of anything to secure it.

[Andy_G]

Bungees or binder clips work.

[Arachnaeoccult]

Thank you.

[EL Ziggy]

I'd put some binder clips on the sides ASAP. Your snake will most likely find a weak spot on that top.

[Andy_G]

I'd put some binder clips on the sides ASAP. Your snake will most likely find a weak spot on that top.

Yup. Good advice here.

[Jim Smith]

I use those same tubs for temporary holding when I cleaned the enclosures or if I want to breed my Honduran Milksnakes. I have had snakes get out of those tubs with the clips secured. They will push on the edges of the tub lid until they feel it give just a bit, then they will force their way out. If you plan on leaving them in these tubs, then you really must add a bungee cord around the middle of each tub.

[EL Ziggy]

I prefer the tubs with latches on both ends and both sides.

[toddnbecka]

I'm using the sterilite tubs with black lids and latches on both ends for some of my smaller snakes. The black lids are more sturdy, and designed differently so that there's no access for the snake to get to the sides from inside the tub.
I use 1" wide nylon strap with velcro sewn onto the ends to secure lids as well. A couple of those with the velcro hooks placed on the sides of your tub would hold it in down.
This type, I get them at Wal-Mart, also have a shallower size with the same size lid.
http://www.amazon.com/Sterilite-Gallon-Stacker-Box--Black/dp/B015JTV12M/ref=sr_1_194?ie=UTF8&qid=1457336229&sr=8-194&keywords=sterilite+plastic+storage+bins

[Humble308]

Hahaha I had my house snake escape a tub like that about half a dozen times when I was gone on a work trip. Luckily he escaped right onto the floor everytime and the hilarity that ensued while I tried to guide my snake squeamish GF on picking him up was priceless.

Even the 10 gal tank with a mesh lid that was perfectly fine for my hognose was no match for my currently missing (again :rolleyes:) house snake. That tub would probably be fine for a bp but corns are pretty escapey snakes.

My favorite for the money would be those critter keepers with the locking lids...a reptile shelter or simliar would have them much cheaper than a big box pet store. All the best.

[jpsteele80]

Yes definitely secure the sides, i had a houdini ball python escape from one of those lol, luckily i found him realitively quick.

[chairman]

The lack of security on those lids is probably the driving force behind racks. Then you don't have to worry about the lid because the rack itself holds everything in place. It would actually be very easy to screw together a box that would hold just that tub.

[EL Ziggy]

There are the only tubs I use. I only have one snake in a tub for QT. They come in (4) packs but you can buy the singles also.

Ziploc 4-Piece Large Deep Weathertight Storage Box Set - Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ziploc-4-Piece-Large-Deep-Weathertight-Storage-Box-Set/37299945?action=product_interest&action_type=title&item_id=37299945&placement_id=irs-106-m3&strategy=PWBAB&visitor_id&category=&client_guid=d2e271ff-47d7-4183-934f-4bbf02b5b79b&customer_id_enc&config_id=106&parent_item_id=37299947&parent_anchor_item_id=37299947&guid=b7f18a53-7df7-47b1-b2b6-d15a2cd0504f&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n)

[Arachnaeoccult]

He escaped last night, checked everywhere in this tiny apartment and he's either gone outside or he snuck next door through the water heater nooke and I'm waiting for him to poop as a sign.



I think he's gone and I'm not happy.

[EL Ziggy]

Sorry to hear that A. Hopefully he'll show up and you'll get another chance to work with him.

[Arachnaeoccult]

I found him.

After scouring this house up and down I found him slithering behind the drawer of his enclosure, one of 15 places I triple checked for snek.

Holy Crap.

[EL Ziggy]

Did you find a way to secure the top or get a new tub? If not, it'll only happen again.

[Arachnaeoccult]

I weighed it down with 5 steven king sized books for tonight, and tomorrow getting the binder clamps I need to seal the deal. This shouldn't happen again. We also know he'll stay inside because he hasn't found a secret escape hole (there isn't one I found he could slip threw in this whole house).

Those 20 dollar ziploc storage boxes though, that come with 4 locks on the side, how do we feel about those? Do they work in and of themselves or need security attachments?

[EL Ziggy]

Good luck with the books. Hopefully they'll hold for the night. The weatherproof tubs with latches on all sides work great IMO. I kept my bull snake in one for almost 2 years with no escapes and my 6 m/o Bredli python is in one now. That tub is very secure even for a strong snake. I think I paid like $15 max at Walmart.

[Arachnaeoccult]

Good luck with the books. Hopefully they'll hold for the night. The weatherproof tubs with latches on all sides work great IMO. I kept my bull snake in one for almost 2 years with no escapes and my 6 m/o Bredli python is in one now. That tub is very secure even for a strong snake. I think I paid like $15 max at Walmart.

I saw a '4 set' for 70 dollars on wally world website, it must've been a shipping price thing.

[Arachnaeoccult]

He keeps trying to escape constantly, he's been trying to escape for the past 3 hours that I know this morning and probably way before I woke up, starting last night before I fell asleep. is this desperation normal behavior? maybe If I stop feeding him double mice like I've been he'll settle down. good god

[serpentgirl123]

He keeps trying to escape constantly, he's been trying to escape for the past 3 hours that I know this morning and probably way before I woke up, starting last night before I fell asleep. is this desperation normal behavior? maybe If I stop feeding him double mice like I've been he'll settle down. good god

I am glad that you found him. Definitely a relief to be sure.

He will most likely be constantly looking for an escape for several weeks I wager. Mine did the same thing for almost 3-4 weeks when it got loose. It is what they do--they "tasted" freedom and are trying to get free again.

Just triple check that everything is secure, even going so far as to buy a more sturdy enclosure. I would personally offer food as normal, might have him calm down a bit faster. But be prepared for this behavior for a good while. Good luck!

[Albert Clark]

It can also be he keeps trying to escape bc he's uncomfortable, and cramped. How are you heating the enclosure?

[Andy_G]

Most snakes put in a new enclosure will constantly survey their new surroundings by pushing everything with their nose and if the front of their head can get can get through an opening, most of the time the body can as well. This is normal behaviour even seen with established captives. Hunger, the need to breed, insecurity or discomfort, as well as very active species will do this at varying levels. If your husbandry is in check and the enclosure is secure, the attempts will lessen soon enough.

[chairman]

Honestly, I'd bag the snake in his enclosure (cool side) until you get those clips. Just use a clean pillow case for the bag. If you don't then he'll probably just get out again.

[Arachnaeoccult]

His behaviour is relaxing now and all my snakes have new aspen bedding (Kaytee's though, its wood chips rather than shred).

The good thing is if I block off the water heater nook with a board behind my book shelf it'll seal off any possibility of them leaving the premise. Sylvester seemed to have stayed in one place unless during his escape. The only ones that could get out of the house are the little ones that can slip through the AC units.

I'm using a UTH on all the enclosures.

I heard March is the breeding season for honduran milk snakes, that could be another reason for his high energy level. I think he's just new to the concept of not living in a 10 gallon prison too (I can't stress the disappointment that the lady who had him for 5 years kept him in such a small cage, not enough room for a hide even).

[Albert Clark]

His behaviour is relaxing now and all my snakes have new aspen bedding (Kaytee's though, its wood chips rather than shred).

The good thing is if I block off the water heater nook with a board behind my book shelf it'll seal off any possibility of them leaving the premise. Sylvester seemed to have stayed in one place unless during his escape. The only ones that could get out of the house are the little ones that can slip through the AC units.

I'm using a UTH on all the enclosures.

I heard March is the breeding season for honduran milk snakes, that could be another reason for his high energy level. I think he's just new to the concept of not living in a 10 gallon prison too (I can't stress the disappointment that the lady who had him for 5 years kept him in such a small cage, not enough room for a hide even).
Ok. Cool. Got it. The uth is regulated on a thermostat/ rheostat right? Just checking.

[Arachnaeoccult]

Ok. Cool. Got it. The uth is regulated on a thermostat/ rheostat right? Just checking.

No none of them have thermostats. I haven't noticed any extroardinarily hot temps in fact I'm more concerned with the room reaching mid 90s on an average summer day. I don't have a thermostat but room temp is currently low-80s even if outside is 70-75 . it also gets muggy so I don't think humidities gonna be a problem. it also helps to run the shower hot as possible. the little corn snakes cage still has a thermogauge but I think it might be off on the humidity at least idk.

The Honduran is all over the enclosure tending toward the cool side, MJ is on the cool side or in her hide (I want another log, or 3), both have deeper aspen substrate now after going through the last bag. MJ has just started burrowing under the aspen on the cool side now that its deep enough. The baby corn snake tends to in the middle or cool side. I've been feeling all 3 heaters, two of which are duct taped. No issues since I started the hobby and two of them are older dating from when I thought arachnids needed heat pads last year.

[EL Ziggy]

All heat sources should be controlled by a thermostat, dimmer, or rheostat. Some UTHs can get as high as 130F which could injure your snake or at least make them very uncomfortable.

[Arachnaeoccult]

All heat sources should be controlled by a thermostat, dimmer, or rheostat. Some UTHs can get as high as 130F which could injure your snake or at least make them very uncomfortable.


I looked up the signs of burning on the belly . I might've felt 100-105 at the highest temperature but they're significantly layered over with new aspen now.

[trailblazer295]

Many snakes will bury there way down to the heat source. No matter how thick i make the substrate they will curl up and push it away. Only do it on the hot side not the cold side. Where did you read 100f at the surface on top of substrate or on the bottom?

[Arachnaeoccult]

Umm, I didn't. I used my hand and said "Pretty hot".


whats the cheapest of a rheostat, dimmer and thermostat?

[trailblazer295]

Body temperature is 95-98f so pretty hot to your hand is well above 100 or 105. Your snake might be trying to escape because it's to hot. You should have a regulation device or a infared gun.

[EL Ziggy]

For a relatively inexpensive, and reliable, thermostat I like Hydrofarms. I've used them for years without any issues. The higher end options with more features are Herpstat and Vivarium Electronics. Try not to prioritize the essentials by what's "cheapest ". Find the best equipment for your animals that you can afford and upgrade as you can. You're hopefully going to care for your critters for many years. They deserve the best care you can give them and I'm sure that's what you want for them.

Amazon.com : Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden (http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457660754&sr=8-1&keywords=hydrofarm+thermostat)

[Arachnaeoccult]

Body temperature is 95-98f so pretty hot to your hand is well above 100 or 105. Your snake might be trying to escape because it's to hot. You should have a regulation device or a infared gun.

He had bare minimum substrate before I bought a new bag, it might be the case. its filled pretty deep so he shouldn't have any issues now unless he intentionally makes it his priority to sit on the hottest spot possible. right now he's still sitting on the cooler side of the cage where I left 1 corner with barely any substrate in case he likes that (and for his water dish, he seems to be on his water dish a lot)

[serpentgirl123]

He might be on/in his water dish because he is trying to cool off. As others have suggested I would find a way to control your heat as soon as possible and invest in an infared temp gun. You might be surprised how hot it really is in there.

I left one of the UTH on under a tub (no animal inside), no regulation, and it was over 110 and nearly 140 under the hide. Of course this was with just newspaper but I have experienced that even with a mildly deep layer of substrate, it can trap a decent amount of heat.

[Arachnaeoccult]

Could i just do away with the heater on the summer?

The temperature next monday is going to be 83 according to google. Its only spring right now.

Today he's quite calm , calmer than usual. he didn'tfight me during handling

[Obsidian_Dragon]

Could i just do away with the heater on the summer?

No, not really.

I realize some people here don't offer all their animals heat and I have to say it drives me batty. They deserve a choice (even if you don't see them exercising it!).

I keep two animals in my office, which is the hottest room in the house. It can hit 80 in there. They still have heat, because their hot spot is 85--and they'll still use it, all summer long. Aaaand sometimes they don't, as is their right.

Do it right or don't do it at all, dude. Your animals deserve that much. Providing properly regulated heat is a basic aspect of keeping snakes.

[Arachnaeoccult]

I set the gauge in sylvester's tank to make sure nothing fishy is going on.

[nyx]

I usually don't login here at all anymore, but I can't. You have a beautiful Honduran locked in a tub (a too-small tub with inadequate ventilation holes, IMO) with no security - not even a bungee cord. You're offering your animals unregulated heat in the middle of 83°F weather. And, if I remember your other threads correctly, you own other snakes that are also improperly housed, AND you're not on a steady income that allows you to provide everything these animals need on a regular basis, including equipment and other assorted husbandry gear.

Should that woman have been housing that amazing animal in a 10 gallon? No. But her abuse does not excuse yours, and housing snakes with no regulator on the heat is straight abuse, no pussyfooting, no sparing the feelings. It can and will result in burns. It is almost certainly stressing the animals.

I am not the kind of person to tell broke people they can't have pets. God knows a pet is sometimes all that keeps us getting up in the morning. But if you cannot afford the basic equipment for an animal, you cannot own that animal.

Either pony up the money for a digital thermometer ON EACH CAGE and a regulator on EACH CAGE, and I mean now, tonight, go, and find a way to get them into a cooler ambient before they die of heat stress (I'm not American, but I assume Florida summers are going to get brutal), or find them new homes.

[Andy_G]

I usually don't login here at all anymore, but I can't. You have a beautiful Honduran locked in a tub (a too-small tub with inadequate ventilation holes, IMO) with no security - not even a bungee cord. You're offering your animals unregulated heat in the middle of 83°F weather. And, if I remember your other threads correctly, you own other snakes that are also improperly housed, AND you're not on a steady income that allows you to provide everything these animals need on a regular basis, including equipment and other assorted husbandry gear.

Should that woman have been housing that amazing animal in a 10 gallon? No. But her abuse does not excuse yours, and housing snakes with no regulator on the heat is straight abuse, no pussyfooting, no sparing the feelings. It can and will result in burns. It is almost certainly stressing the animals.

I am not the kind of person to tell broke people they can't have pets. God knows a pet is sometimes all that keeps us getting up in the morning. But if you cannot afford the basic equipment for an animal, you cannot own that animal.

Either pony up the money for a digital thermometer ON EACH CAGE and a regulator on EACH CAGE, and I mean now, tonight, go, and find a way to get them into a cooler ambient before they die of heat stress (I'm not American, but I assume Florida summers are going to get brutal), or find them new homes.

Even more sound advice...

[Humble308]

Don't do away with a hot spot, the critters need it to digest properly. All my snakes routinely stay on their cool side unless they've got a full belly then I see them chilling in their hot hides.

At the very least go buy yourself a $10 light dimmer from Lowes. Similar to serpentgirl I did a test with my 10 gal tank and a UTH and it hit around 143 on the glass with no temperature regulation. I see melted enclosures and burnt snakes at the shelter all the time because they didn't want to take that extra step to provide the animal the best husbandry possible. It doesn't have to be elaborate, just do it right.

Here's a couple links. The first is a Thermostat that EZ mentioned...I use this myself for most of my snakes and leopard geckos. Really cheap, but it can add up as you need to have one for each cage

http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457728178&sr=8-2&keywords=uth+thermostat

And here's a dimmer also known as a rheostat

Shop Lutron Credenza Slide Dimmer at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_70717-539-TT-300NLH-WH___)

Best of luck.

[Tiny Boidae]

I didn't want to jump into this discussion but I guess if I have to.

When I first started keeping these guys, I didn't run them on a thermostat (burn me at the stake for it). It wasn't that I couldn't afford it or I chose not to, it was just no caresheets I read had indicated that a thermostat was needed, so I was just ignorant. This is what happened.

http://i64.tinypic.com/2dkzptj.jpg

(I was waiting until I got my new snake to show off my brand new, not smashed to pieces phone camera, but oh well)

I was just lucky that my snake, who WAS in there when this happened, didn't get roasted (she didn't even have any minor burns- I was blessed with a miracle). I still use the enclosure with some minor tweaks. I keep a sheet of reptile carpet between the glass and her for one (although dirt still gets under there sometimes when I go to mess with it :/ ), but more importantly I dug into the cause of this and ordered a thermostat for ALL of my snakes that very same day. Their enclosures stay at a nice 95° now and there is no guessing. I understand you want to cut corners on and there are certain things where it's okay, but the temperature is NOT one of those things and I think that's something that isn't emphasised enough.

[dannybgoode]

Thermostats on all heart sources. No if's, no buts.

/thread closed.

[Minkness]

I checked out that dimmer and had a laugh at the 1st review that shows.... XD

On a side note, I have some questions about that dimmer.

First, how do you know how warm it makes things? Temp gun?

Also, can you plug it into a multi-plug system and still have it work? (Think...6 plug surge protector)

[Humble308]

I checked out that dimmer and had a laugh at the 1st review that shows.... XD

On a side note, I have some questions about that dimmer.

First, how do you know how warm it makes things? Temp gun?

Also, can you plug it into a multi-plug system and still have it work? (Think...6 plug surge protector)

HAHAHA I just went and read it, cracked me up.

Yea I use them in conjunction with an IR temp gun. I mostly experimented on empty cages with substrate to see how consistent my self wired flex watt and dimmer would work. And they work pretty well, but they have some drawbacks since they're constantly powered. They don't give quite the warm fuzzy as t-stat does. But so far they're usually only up or down 2-3 degrees. My herp rooms stays at 76 at all times. I think as long as you have a good consistent ambient you wouldn't have too much problems. However I'm manic and check my temps with the gun twice per day. Once I have temps dialed in I make a hash mark with a sharpie to indicate this is hot spot and I can adjust from there.

You can plug multiples into a power strip or surge protector. All the dimmer does is adjust how much amperage is being drawn and delivered to the heat source. You may have issues if you've got 4-5 bulbs/mats drawing from one outlet though.

T-stats are definitely the way to go, but I've used the dimmer and IR temp gun before in a pinch until Amazon delivers the hydrofarm

[Minkness]

Why would multiple bulbs/mats have issues?

[serpentgirl123]

I checked out that dimmer and had a laugh at the 1st review that shows.... XD

On a side note, I have some questions about that dimmer.

First, how do you know how warm it makes things? Temp gun?

Also, can you plug it into a multi-plug system and still have it work? (Think...6 plug surge protector)


I don't know about a multi-plug system--I only use them with 1 heat mat that is connected to a surge protector for extra protection against a possible fire.

But what I do, is get an empty tub or tank (I have multiple of each size) and set the dimmer about 1/2 way and add whatever substrate and other cage accessories I plan on using. I leave it for a day and then check the temps with my temp gun. If it isn't at the desired range, I move the dimmer up or down, leave it alone for another day and check the temps. Once it is in the rough range of temps, I use a small piece of tape and with a pen, write the temp at that spot on the dimmer (aka it is between 85-90). This way I know if I push the dimmer button up "this particular amount" it is about 85-90. But whenever I use a dimmer I double check the temps at least 2x a day and adjust a bit accordingly. It is a lot of trial and error and constant adjusting.

I personally prefer the Jump Start over the dimmer because I can set it and it stays within the desired range. But I have/still use both along with a herpstat for my racks.

[Minkness]

What is the jump start?

[serpentgirl123]

What is the jump start?


It is the name of the heat mat thermostat that EZ mentioned and Humble linked.

Amazon.com : Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden (http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457728178&sr=8-2&keywords=uth%20thermostat&tag=viglink21195-20)

[Minkness]

Oooh! I missed that XD

Thanks for the info and suggestions. Been looking for a better way to control heat for when I go 'big'.

Would the dimmer work on an RHP as well?

[Humble308]

I don't know about a multi-plug system--I only use them with 1 heat mat that is connected to a surge protector for extra protection against a possible fire.

But what I do, is get an empty tub or tank (I have multiple of each size) and set the dimmer about 1/2 way and add whatever substrate and other cage accessories I plan on using. I leave it for a day and then check the temps with my temp gun. If it isn't at the desired range, I move the dimmer up or down, leave it alone for another day and check the temps. Once it is in the rough range of temps, I use a small piece of tape and with a pen, write the temp at that spot on the dimmer (aka it is between 85-90). This way I know if I push the dimmer button up "this particular amount" it is about 85-90. But whenever I use a dimmer I double check the temps at least 2x a day and adjust a bit accordingly. It is a lot of trial and error and constant adjusting.

I personally prefer the Jump Start over the dimmer because I can set it and it stays within the desired range. But I have/still use both along with a herpstat for my racks.

Pretty much exactly how I do it as well. No animal enters the tank until it's dialed in. The Jump Start is that HydroFarm T-stat I linked earlier.

Depending on your houses power services when you draw too many amps from an outlet you can trip a breaker. Usually stuff like heat mats won't cause issues, not sure about bulbs...I trip breakers in the house I rent fairly often when like an idiot I'm trying to microwave something and use the toaster oven at the same time. (Frankly idiotic wiring by the original owners). You might notice that a light dims when you use a hair dryer or similar...same idea. If this happens when you're not at the house then you can lose power to your heat sources. Not a problem for a day or two, but if you've got a trip to take then it can mean no heat for your sweeties.

I fear I've gone drastically off topic as this won't be an issue for most modern houses, but it's something to consider when you're hooking alot of crap into one outlet.

[Minkness]

Ah, thanks for that info! I was asking because I did recently get a house. It's about 20 years old and I know zero about te electrical yet, but the room I'm making my herp room has like 2 outlets on every wall lol. Right now my mats don't cause an issue, but I am looking to redo setups and heating options. So I appreciate the info! I never travel, so not too worried about power outages.

[Humble308]

Oooh! I missed that XD

Thanks for the info and suggestions. Been looking for a better way to control heat for when I go 'big'.

Would the dimmer work on an RHP as well?

I don't think it works as well as the T-stat would. I've done a little research on it as I'm preparing to put an RHP in my gray rats enclosure and the general consensus was to stick with the t-stat. Depending on the panel you're already into for $70 at least, so why not just spend the extra $30 and do it right.

The dimmer in itself will work on all kinds of stuff. It simply limits how much electricity gets to whatever it's plugged into. Think of it like the burner knob on your stove top...You can boil water slow or boil it super fast :D

[Minkness]

Ah, that makes sense!

I will revisot the dimmer vs tstat when I'm ready for the new set ups. Thanks for the great info though!

[toddnbecka]

I looked at the available options, and decided that the herpstat 4 is probably the best all around for multiple enclosures. I have several Helix that I use for heat mats, and they're fine for maintaining a steady temp, but they don't have a night-drop option like the herpstats. The other consideration is that the Helix will run up to 3 mats but only has 1 temp probe, while the Herpstat 4 has 4 separate probes to more closely regulate the temps in individual enclosures.
I started out with rheostats and zoo-med heat mats. Now those are gathering dust in a cabinet, and I use Ultratherm mats and Helix or Herpstat t-stats to regulate them.

[dannybgoode]

Think of a rheostat as like a volume control on a hi fi. It will set the sound level but will take no account of ambient noise so will not make the music louder or quieter as and when background noise levels change.

A dimmer or rheostat is the same with heat.

[pet_snake_78]

Dimmers work OK for me but I use them in a snake room with very tight temperature control so there is not a lot of flucuation there. In general, I think most people will fair much better with a proportional tstat on heat mats. You can even throw in the dimmer to make sure if the tstat fails open that the mat does not get enough heat to melt the tub.