Some beginners questions for a Red-Tail Boa

[AwesomeGuy376]

Hey everyone, I had a few questions regarding my new snake as I'm a first time owner, I was hoping for some help :)
So the first thing I was wondering is feeding. I would like to feed him in his terrarium (I know there's controversy over it), but I'm more concerned with substrate getting on the Rat then him swallowing it. I've heard you can put the Rat on a plate (or dangle it over a plate so he thinks its alive) and he'll eat it without eating substrate. Anyways, I'd like to know what y'all have done. Also, the store i bought him from said he was due to be fed cause he hadn't been in 2 weeks, the guy there said he should with no problem. However, i tried feeding him last night and he wasn't even interested, in fact he almost moved away from it which kinda has me concerned (Really concerned). I bought him 2 days ago, and i feared it might be too soon, but hes 5 years old and the guy said he was used to all this so I don't know...
The next thing I would like to know is about his terrarium and if i'm doing it right. So I got him about a 2'x3' tank with Fir and Sphagnum substrate. The only problem I'm having is trying to keep it warm, its sat at 75 the past couple days and he has 2 heat lamps (one red and one white). The red one stays on all the time, and the white one is only on during the day. the humidity is sitting at 55-58 steady. I've tried the wet towel half way over the tank method, as well as spraying the tank, but nothing I do increases it :( Is there something I can do to fix this? I also wanted to know if i could add more branches and leaves without him getting annoyed. He has 2 large branches with a half-cut log, but over time I'd like to make a busy-looking habitat that resembles a rain-forest.
Next topic is kinda like the last, its about his water. So I've been using tap water with the drops that eliminate the harsh chemicals like chlorine. Now, I was wondering if i should do it for his spray as well, I did it today with the drops just to be sure before i get responses.
Next thing to ask you nice people, is about handling. So the previous owner works at the store I got him from, and was bragging about how docile he is. I did handle him a bit today and some yesterday (calm and sweet as always), and I asked the guy if he would get stressed and he said "not at all". But I'd like more opinions, he seems like a really sweet snake and hasn't tried to bite me yet. I was planning on handling a couple times a week to ensure he is still used to humans (and because I like spending time with him :)) I was also curious if I should move his den (log) if hes in it to handle him, or if i should leave him alone when hes in there (he barely comes out). And all in all, I'd like some tips on how to avoid getting bit :)
The last thing is his health, I'm pretty sure hes healthy, but i don't know if I can afford to take him to vet visits (Don't know the prices yet). But i wanted to know how to tell if hes sick, cold, or uncomfortable in any way.
My Overall goal is to have him live the longest, happiest life he can possibly have. I'm really excited to have him and I've already gotten attached to him XD (didn't take long at all). And i know most of these things can be found on YouTube, but i like forum responses because i feel you guys are more real and have the experience. Plus I like being a part of the community and hearing what y'all have to say because I imagine you are all snake owners :) As I'm sure you can tell, I'm very nervous and want to make sure everything is the best it can be, I just want him to be happy and healthy :)

Ill attach a pic of him and his terrarium if any of you care :)

[pet_snake_78]

Incadescent bulbs tend to dry the air out pretty bad. If the room has very low humidity, I'd put a humidifier in the room (just remember to clean it as directed). If he uses hides, a humid and a dry hide would be a good idea. I cannot comment too much on your setup because I use tubs which are easier but not good for someone to watch their pet snake. Boas need to be at or over 80F to digest food properly. I have a 90F hotspot the size of their body but they mostly stay on the cool end high 70s so I feel both are important, they use the hotspot for a day or so after eating and periodically, though. Usually leaving the food infront of their hide works but I just food via tongs. Try feeding at night.

[LespaceSerpent]

To keep it warm I would recommend getting one of those under tank heating marks and a thermostat which will keep it warm for him, that way you can guarantee one side of his tank is high enough. Another thing I learned here to help with temp and humidity is to layer the area that isn't covered by lights with duct tape which seals it.

Some people like to wait until they are out of their hides bit my ball python doesn't seem to mind too much when I pick him up from his hide.

As for feeding what I do is I just lay down a piece of paper towel on his bedding to keep him from accidentally rolling his rat on the substrate.

[bigsnakegirl785]

I wouldn't worry about the substrate sticking to it, as long as your snake is properly hydrated and kept warm, it will easily pass whatever it swallows.

You should always wait a week after getting a new snake before offering any food, it likely refused because it was still stressed from the move.

At 5 years old, your boa only needs to eat every 3-6 weeks. 4 weeks being the best, 3 weeks being the absolute most often, and 6 weeks as the least often.

You need a hot spot of 88-90F and ambients no lower than 80F if possible, and no lower than 75F at the absolute coldest. Humidity should be 70-80%.

The only advice for raising humidity I can give you is ditching the tank and getting a modified tub or PVC. What you can do for now is cover 2/3 of the top with aluminum foil or cling wrap.

Here's a video of how I maintain humidity in my enclosures, I would advise doing the same since you're using EcoEarth. It will be much easier on you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=1O-JNnS6XfM

Make sure the bedding falls freely from your hands as demonstrated, and no water strains out. Doing this, I only have to do this maybe once every 1-2 weeks and I can easily keep it 70-80%. You may not have such luck with your tank, but blocking off as much airflow as you can may help.

For the temps, what is your room temp? You may have to heat the entire room to bring the temperature up, it's unusual that two heat lamps can't bring it above 75F. Are you using a digital thermometer, and where are you placing it?

There's no need to treat the water at all unless it's unsuitable for consumption, in which case you wouldn't be drinking it either.

You only got the snake 2 days ago and it hasn't eaten, you shouldn't be handling the snake whatsoever. Give it 7 days, offer food, and then wait until it takes 2-3 consecutive meals without hesitation before you begin handling it. Snakes stress easily, and your boa has already refused food, I'd back off it for the time being.

[EL Ziggy]

Welcome and best wishes AG. Congrats on your new addiction. I don't keep boas so I can't help their specific husbandry needs but once you get your temps and humidity dialed in properly your snake should thrive.

[dannybgoode]

How big is your snake. At 5 years old I'd imagine he's going to be 5' +. I don't think a 3x2 Viv it's big enough for him and you'll struggle to get the right temperature gradient dialed in.

There should be a hot spot around 90f and the cool end dropping too the very high 70's. To achieve this you really need a ceramic heater our radiant heat panel either of which must be controlled by a thermostat.

Also it's probably a bit soon to be trying to feed him. Give him a good 5 - 10 days to settle in. An adult boa only needs feeding every 3-6 weeks so giving him time to settle won't harm him at all.

[AwesomeGuy376]

I wouldn't worry about the substrate sticking to it, as long as your snake is properly hydrated and kept warm, it will easily pass whatever it swallows.

You should always wait a week after getting a new snake before offering any food, it likely refused because it was still stressed from the move.

At 5 years old, your boa only needs to eat every 3-6 weeks. 4 weeks being the best, 3 weeks being the absolute most often, and 6 weeks as the least often.

You need a hot spot of 88-90F and ambients no lower than 80F if possible, and no lower than 75F at the absolute coldest. Humidity should be 70-80%.

The only advice for raising humidity I can give you is ditching the tank and getting a modified tub or PVC. What you can do for now is cover 2/3 of the top with aluminum foil or cling wrap.

Here's a video of how I maintain humidity in my enclosures, I would advise doing the same since you're using EcoEarth. It will be much easier on you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=1O-JNnS6XfM

Make sure the bedding falls freely from your hands as demonstrated, and no water strains out. Doing this, I only have to do this maybe once every 1-2 weeks and I can easily keep it 70-80%. You may not have such luck with your tank, but blocking off as much airflow as you can may help.

For the temps, what is your room temp? You may have to heat the entire room to bring the temperature up, it's unusual that two heat lamps can't bring it above 75F. Are you using a digital thermometer, and where are you placing it?

There's no need to treat the water at all unless it's unsuitable for consumption, in which case you wouldn't be drinking it either.

You only got the snake 2 days ago and it hasn't eaten, you shouldn't be handling the snake whatsoever. Give it 7 days, offer food, and then wait until it takes 2-3 consecutive meals without hesitation before you begin handling it. Snakes stress easily, and your boa has already refused food, I'd back off it for the time being.

Thanks for your long response! Anyways, I went back to the store and asked about the temp, and he just gave me another heat lamp which actually worked. I also asked him about the feeding, which he agreed with you, but he also said that i should handle him lightly just to make sure hes still docile so idk .-. But thanks so much for all this info!

[AwesomeGuy376]

How big is your snake. At 5 years old I'd imagine he's going to be 5' +. I don't think a 3x2 Viv it's big enough for him and you'll struggle to get the right temperature gradient dialed in.

There should be a hot spot around 90f and the cool end dropping too the very high 70's. To achieve this you really need a ceramic heater our radiant heat panel either of which must be controlled by a thermostat.

Also it's probably a bit soon to be trying to feed him. Give him a good 5 - 10 days to settle in. An adult boa only needs feeding every 3-6 weeks so giving him time to settle won't harm him at all.

Well, hes a dwarf, so hes only about 3.5 ft. I just got what the guy told me to get at the store soooo yeah. Ive managed to fix the heating problem with another heat lamp, its now 90 below it and 77 in the cold part of the cage during night. Im also following the feeding advice, im just gonna feed him on the 1st and 15th of every month and hopefully its good :D. Thanks so much for responding!

[AwesomeGuy376]

Thank all of you guys on your responses, i really appreciate it! Y'all have helped a lot! Still one thing I'm kinda stuck on is handling :L Someone told me not to do it for a couple weeks, but the previous owner told me to do it lightly a couple times a week, even when settling in.. so I'm just gonna leave him alone for a couple days until i get more opinions :D

[dannybgoode]

Let him settle in for a good couple of weeks. Maybe longer. He's in a new environment and needs time to settle and get used to his surroundings.

With a younger snake allowing two feeds with no issues id's a good rule of thumb. With your guy I'd leave out a week before you try to feed him then at least another 5 days afterward.

In any event don't handle a snake within 48 hours of feeding ( some say 24 hours but I prefer to leave them longer).

Keep the questions coming...

[bigsnakegirl785]

Thanks for your long response! Anyways, I went back to the store and asked about the temp, and he just gave me another heat lamp which actually worked. I also asked him about the feeding, which he agreed with you, but he also said that i should handle him lightly just to make sure hes still docile so idk .-. But thanks so much for all this info!

Yes, you can handle, but not until he starts eating.

When the snake has successfully taken 2-3 consecutive meals without refusing, then you may begin handling the snake. 2-3 times a week should be sufficient, and how long those sessions are depends on the snake's attitude.

If it is uncomfortable with you and striking, biting, hissing, or posturing at you, keep the handling sessions no more than 15 minutes or whenever the snake stops hissing/biting/posturing. You don't want to stress them out, but you also don't want to encourage defensive behavior.

If it's perfectly chill and doesn't seem to mind, I would start out with 15-30 minute sessions and once you've had it a few months and gotten a feel for it you can have slightly longer sessions.

Again, snakes stress from handling, so you don't want to overdo it. But snakes also don't revert to a defensive personality simply because you don't handle them if they started out already docile.

Handling is not necessary whatsoever in the keeping of snakes, it is for your benefit only.

[dannybgoode]

Yes, you can handle, but not until he starts eating.

When the snake has successfully taken 2-3 consecutive meals without refusing, then you may begin handling the snake. 2-3 times a week should be sufficient, and how long those sessions are depends on the snake's attitude.

If it is uncomfortable with you and striking, biting, hissing, or posturing at you, keep the handling sessions no more than 15 minutes or whenever the snake stops hissing/biting/posturing. You don't want to stress them out, but you also don't want to encourage defensive behavior.

If it's perfectly chill and doesn't seem to mind, I would start out with 15-30 minute sessions and once you've had it a few months and gotten a feel for it you can have slightly longer sessions.

Again, snakes stress from handling, so you don't want to overdo it. But snakes also don't revert to a defensive personality simply because you don't handle them if they started out already docile.

Handling is not necessary whatsoever in the keeping of snakes, it is for your benefit only.

For an adult boa personally I wouldn't wait 2 or 3 maps simply due to the length of fine between feeds. Could be 18 weeks our so.

A juvenile sure because feeds are much more frequent.

5-7 days settling in, feed and then another 5-10 days post feed should be plenty.

Other than that I would agree with your other handling comments...

[bigsnakegirl785]

For an adult boa personally I wouldn't wait 2 or 3 maps simply due to the length of fine between feeds. Could be 18 weeks our so.

A juvenile sure because feeds are much more frequent.

5-7 days settling in, feed and then another 5-10 days post feed should be plenty.

Other than that I would agree with your other handling comments...

I am only suggesting this because the snake has already refused food, we want to be sure it's eating before we handle. If it's already showing an inclination to not eat, it could further reinforce it's food refusal. It's simply a matter of patience on the owner's end, and won't affect the snake in a permanent way.

[dannybgoode]

I would be happy handling an adult boa after 1 successful feed, ganets that they are. Not much will put a boa off once it's started again.

Say a ball or another tricky feeder not so much.

[bigsnakegirl785]

I would be happy handling an adult boa after 1 successful feed, ganets that they are. Not much will put a boa off once it's started again.

Say a ball or another tricky feeder not so much.

Yes, but it's worrisome when a boa refuses food, because they're usually garbage disposals. Even if the snake ate the day before, chances are it would still eat, and they don't normally stress out as easily as other snakes.

I brought my sunglow on a 3 hour drive, sat in a restaurant for an hour, and did quick a weighing and picture shoot when I got home, and still did not have a refusal when I later that day. My retic had an hour drive and ate soon after, I've had snakes shipped that ate the same day or 6 days later.

If they had brought the boa home, and it had eaten on the first try then yes, I'd say give it 2-3 days after it eats and then handle. That is not what happened here, so I am suggesting to make sure it's eating first. I have seen cases of boas acting just like ball pythons, so it will be for the better of OP's mind to simply give it time to settle in, especially since OP is a beginner and likely not used to the idea of snakes fasting for months on end.

[AwesomeGuy376]

I should probably explain that I think I tried to feed him wrong.. I see these people on YouTube do it differently and spend time doing it... All I did was dangle it in front of him for about a minute then give up.. I'm starting to think I should tried longer. It's been 5 days since I got him. I only handled him once and he never tried to strike and was curious, but wasn't constricting or anything, just really sweet and friendly. And whevever I put him back in his cage, he actually explored for a bit until he went back into his hide. The only thing I'm worried about is that he's staying in his hide for the entire time. I'm pretty sure he hasn't come out, cause I don't see any trails in the tank. He's only gone out the night I got him cause he was shedding (which also might be why he didn't eat).. Idk I'm just concerned for my snake (I have bad anxiety on everything so ugh). But yeah, just scared of a hunger strike. Update on the cage btw, I got another lamp and the cold side is about 80 and at night it's 75, so I fixed the problem. As for humidity, I spray the cage twice a day and never goes below 60. I'm getting there :). But seriously thanks to all of you, I love these responses so much! And I'm gonna try to feed him on the 1st and see where it goes. As for handling, I've decided to wait till Sunday or Monday to do so. Again thanks guys, I'm still new to this!

[dannybgoode]

I wouldn't handle him until he's fed. See both bsg's and my responses in this respect.

Leave him well alone-just make sure he has fresh water. Other than that let him be...

[AwesomeGuy376]

I wouldn't handle him until he's fed. See both bsg's and my responses in this respect.

Leave him well alone-just make sure he has fresh water. Other than that let him be...

Ok then I'll do that

[bigsnakegirl785]

I should probably explain that I think I tried to feed him wrong.. I see these people on YouTube do it differently and spend time doing it... All I did was dangle it in front of him for about a minute then give up.. I'm starting to think I should tried longer. It's been 5 days since I got him. I only handled him once and he never tried to strike and was curious, but wasn't constricting or anything, just really sweet and friendly. And whevever I put him back in his cage, he actually explored for a bit until he went back into his hide. The only thing I'm worried about is that he's staying in his hide for the entire time. I'm pretty sure he hasn't come out, cause I don't see any trails in the tank. He's only gone out the night I got him cause he was shedding (which also might be why he didn't eat).. Idk I'm just concerned for my snake (I have bad anxiety on everything so ugh). But yeah, just scared of a hunger strike. Update on the cage btw, I got another lamp and the cold side is about 80 and at night it's 75, so I fixed the problem. As for humidity, I spray the cage twice a day and never goes below 60. I'm getting there :). But seriously thanks to all of you, I love these responses so much! And I'm gonna try to feed him on the 1st and see where it goes. As for handling, I've decided to wait till Sunday or Monday to do so. Again thanks guys, I'm still new to this!

Yeah each boa will eat in it's own way. Both of mine will eat if all I do is dangle it somewhere in their cage, and they'll take it immediately, but sometimes I have to make some vibrations to get their attention, and not every snake will eat immediately.

If you want your humidity to rise, misting is not the way to do it, it's a temporary fix to a long term problem and provides wetness rather than humidity. I would suggest you try what I advised earlier in the thread. If that tank is what I think it is (I've got my albino checkered in one), it's got a lot of air flow, and that is going to work against you.

Have you reduced any of the air flow yet? That's going to be the best thing that will help you if you choose to stay with the tank, plus the video I shared. I honestly suggest saving up and buying a PVC cage. You can get a T11 (48"x24"x18") for a base price of $330 or a T12 (48"x24"x24") for a base price of $339 from Animal Plastics, I personally wouldn't suggest one under 18" in height. PVC cages is another good website, and is cheaper than AP but doesn't seem to go above a 4'x2'x2', but that should be plenty for your boa. A PVC cage will keep in heat without you having to use 3 heat lamps (hopefully), and will keep in humidity much much much easier. The main thing that keeps people away are price and waiting times, which can be anywhere from one month to 8+ months. I got my 2 T12's after about 3 months.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Yeah each boa will eat in it's own way. Both of mine will eat if all I do is dangle it somewhere in their cage, and they'll take it immediately, but sometimes I have to make some vibrations to get their attention, and not every snake will eat immediately.

If you want your humidity to rise, misting is not the way to do it, it's a temporary fix to a long term problem and provides wetness rather than humidity. I would suggest you try what I advised earlier in the thread. If that tank is what I think it is (I've got my albino checkered in one), it's got a lot of air flow, and that is going to work against you.

Have you reduced any of the air flow yet? That's going to be the best thing that will help you if you choose to stay with the tank, plus the video I shared. I honestly suggest saving up and buying a PVC cage. You can get a T11 (48"x24"x18") for a base price of $330 or a T12 (48"x24"x24") for a base price of $339 from Animal Plastics, I personally wouldn't suggest one under 18" in height. PVC cages is another good website, and is cheaper than AP but doesn't seem to go above a 4'x2'x2', but that should be plenty for your boa. A PVC cage will keep in heat without you having to use 3 heat lamps (hopefully), and will keep in humidity much much much easier. The main thing that keeps people away are price and waiting times, which can be anywhere from one month to 8+ months. I got my 2 T12's after about 3 months.

I've managed to restrict airflow using a wet towel and so far it's been holding up relatively well. I've been thinking about buying a humidifier cause I really don't want to have to buy a new cage.. The only problem is I heard that they break a lot.. But the humidity hasn't dropped past 60 since I've done my modifications, the misting is a bit annoying but I don't mind. I just really am kinda broke in the bank after the whole purchase soo yeah, can't really afford a new tank :P I've also done that bedding thing you showed in your video and it seems to help as well.

[dannybgoode]

60% humidity is fine imo. Bsg and I have differing opinions about humidity for BCI's. 80% is up at the levels required for Brazilian Rainbow Boas and the like and there is a danger of you get it too high you're into the realms of potential RI's and the like.

Get the substrate too wet all the time and you've got problemsc and it's a tightrope that is not necessary to walk.

Out course this is the internet so you're going to get different opinions but my girl is doing just fine at 50-60% and I've not seen a care sheet yet for common boa that suggest 80% ( the highest I've seen it's 60-70%, the lowest 40-50%. I aim for low to mid 50's). Perfect sheds, eats and poos as she should and looks stunning. Recent photo below.

Bsg-do you have any links to care sheets or other resources that suggest 70-80% as I'd be interested to see what else they suggest that I could consider doing differently.

[dannybgoode]

Oh, and where are you measuring the humidity? Humidity tends to be higher and ground level where the snake usually is and drops quite quickly even within the confines of a Viv.

I have a probe at substrate level and this reads a good 5-10% higher than the hygrometer I had mid way up the back wall of the Viv.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Oh, and where are you measuring the humidity? Humidity tends to be higher and ground level where the snake usually is and drops quite quickly even within the confines of a Viv.

I have a probe at substrate level and this reads a good 5-10% higher than the hygrometer I had mid way up the back wall of the Viv.

I have the probe half way up the tank dead center. The humidity only gets that high when I first spray, and tends to stick around 70 once settled down. But now I'm scared of an RI XD. My main concern is that he hasn't come out of his hide at all, I don't know if it's normal, but last night I put a camera facing the tank and he never came out, only moved within the hide. Ugh this is stressful :P is an ambient temp of 82 too high? And are red lights too bright for night time?

[dannybgoode]

Whilst it's understandable that you're concerned I think just leaving him well alone is the best thing to do for now.

Your numbers are fine, I'd actually try and get the warm end up a bit higher 86 or so and a hot spot around 90-92.

Yes, it's perfectly normal for them to stay hidden. A) they're nocturnal anyway and quite often hide during the day and b) he's still nervous of his new surroundings. Mine sometimes still keeps out of site for a day or more.

I'd ditch the bulb and get a ceramic heat emitter. These look like light bulbs but give out pure heat. Will keep the temps up easier and no danger of disturbing the snake at night.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Whilst it's understandable that you're concerned I think just leaving him well alone is the best thing to do for now.

Your numbers are fine, I'd actually try and get the warm end up a bit higher 86 or so and a hot spot around 90-92.

Yes, it's perfectly normal for them to stay hidden. A) they're nocturnal anyway and quite often hide during the day and b) he's still nervous of his new surroundings. Mine sometimes still keeps out of site for a day or more.

I'd ditch the bulb and get a ceramic heat emitter. These look like light bulbs but give out pure heat. Will keep the temps up easier and no danger of disturbing the snake at night.

The cool end is roughly 83 during the day, but i really can't afford any new equipment right now :(. I kinda have to make due with what I have, the previous owner used this, and I guess he was fine. Last night I actually saw him looking out of his cage, but I walked by not knowing and he went right back in (which I assumed scared him for the rest of the night). Here's my next problem, my dad worked at a pet shop when he was 16 and is giving me endless crap about how I'm "overdoing it"... He said that humidity doesn't matter and that the snake is "too warm" and that's why he won't come out.. He's also saying I should handle the snake every day (which I'm positive is a horrible idea).. If someone can post telling why all this is wrong so I can show him it'd be great.. But I tried explaining how humidity is essential for a good shed, and explained how he shouldn't be handled for a couple weeks till he's settled.. Anyways, back on topic, like I said, I actually saw him peak his head out a bit last night, so some progress :) and I've left him alone for a couple days, and will continue to do so, so no worries there

[dannybgoode]

Humidity is important but imo people over think it and worry about it far too much. Some species it is critical but bci's are not one.

What temp is your warm end then? Your cool end is too warm really and the snake won't be able to thermoregulate properly. They need to be able to choose a temperature according to whether they're digesting food etc. If it can't do this it's a problem hence my early comment about the Viv being on the small side.

You do have a thermostat don't you? Apologies can't remember the exact details of your setup.

Handling every day is unnecessary and will stress the snake. As previously advised you shouldn't be handling at all at the moment. You wood honestly do the snake no harm if you were to never handle it but most people like some interaction with their pets.

Follow the advice given on here and not your dad's!

[AwesomeGuy376]

Humidity is important but imo people over think it and worry about it far too much. Some species it is critical but bci's are not one.

What temp is your warm end then? Your cool end is too warm really and the snake won't be able to thermoregulate properly. They need to be able to choose a temperature according to whether they're digesting food etc. If it can't do this it's a problem hence my early comment about the Viv being on the small side.

You do have a thermostat don't you? Apologies can't remember the exact details of your setup.

Handling every day is unnecessary and will stress the snake. As previously advised you shouldn't be handling at all at the moment. You wood honestly do the snake no harm if you were to never handle it but most people like some interaction with their pets.

Follow the advice given on here and not your dad's!

It's not the "cool end" really, the probe is kinda places dead center of the tank. It's stuck on the glass half way up in the middle, between the heat lamps. Is this temperature life threatening? Stressing out ;-;

[AwesomeGuy376]

By the way, I have 2 more small thermometers on the way to put one in the really hot end and one in the cool end. Right now the probe is kinda in the middle

[dannybgoode]

Do you have a thermostat not a thermometer to control the temperature of the heat bulbs?

Do you know what the temperature at the hot end is and the cold end?

[AwesomeGuy376]

Do you have a thermostat not a thermometer to control the temperature of the heat bulbs?

Do you know what the temperature at the hot end is and the cold end?

No I don't, and I don't know the exact temps though I would gues cold is about 80 while hot is somewhere in the 90s

[dannybgoode]

Ok we're getting somewhere. You need a thermostat right away. Funds may be tight but you must have one. No ifs, no buts.

Until you have one and we know your temps are right theres not much we can do.

They're not expensive and to honest ( and tis isn't a dig at you, out happens all the time) you shouldn't commit to a reptile without having the funds for the right equipment. People think they're cheap, secondhand fish tank and a heat bulb and of you go.

A good but not expensive set up is at least $100 if you get good secondhand kit, easily double that new and people don't realise. It's not the snake that costs it's all the stuff needed to keep ithealthy.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Ok we're getting somewhere. You need a thermostat right away. Funds may be tight but you must have one. No ifs, no buts.

Until you have one and we know your temps are right theres not much we can do.

They're not expensive and to honest ( and tis isn't a dig at you, out happens all the time) you shouldn't commit to a reptile without having the funds for the right equipment. People think they're cheap, secondhand fish tank and a heat bulb and of you go.

A good but not expensive set up is at least $100 if you get good secondhand kit, easily double that new and people don't realise. It's not the snake that costs it's all the stuff needed to keep ithealthy.

I spent over 500 for all this (not including the snake), so it's not a cheap setup. And you have to remember, I just listened to the guy at the store who was showing me all this. He never mentioned a thermostat, all he said was to make sure the temps are about 80-90 and the humidity was around 60-70 and gave me the thermometer and humidity reader.. He never told me about some device that you can control the heat with besides just using the lamps.... I've never even seen a thermostat and I know 2 people who also own snakes..

[AwesomeGuy376]

And also there's a picture of his enclosure attached to the first post if you're curious

[dannybgoode]

As I say I not bashing you. You followed the advice of someone who you thought would know.

Sorry to say but at $500 for your set up you're pet store is taking the proverbial. Unfortunately it happens say too often.

A thermostat automatically controls the power going to a light or other heating device to keep the temperature constant. Without it you could cook your snake or it may be way too cold.

With your setup I don't think you'll cook it but it certainly won't be happy and it may not eat accordingly. You must get a thermostat ( or star as they're commonly referred to as). Your friends aren't doing it right either.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Then can you link me to one that will work? I mean, the temps seem right where the care sheet is saying it should be and so is the humidity.. I've been monitoring all day.. But if it's absolutely necessary then I guess I'll get it

[AwesomeGuy376]

So will something like this work- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018CLYNG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1455903641&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=reptile+thermostat

I don't want to have to buy new lights... Those were expensive..

[dannybgoode]

I'm afraid I don't know the US brands so I'm not the best person to advise on a good value stat your side of the pond.

I'm sure someone will be along soon who can point you in the right direction.

[AwesomeGuy376]

I'm not really concerned about value as much as effectiveness. I can afford three of these for my lights I just wanna know if they'll work. Considering it says 500 watts and my lights are only 50 and white one is 100.. Like you said, I need to be investing, I just got paid today (off my little YouTube job got $150 woo hoo :P). But yea, I just wanna get everything right, I just need to know if that's a thermostat that you're talking about

[chairman]

I think that the product you linked is a rheostat. You'll want something more like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_ss_i_2_8?k=hydrofarm+thermostat&sprefix=hydrofar

[AwesomeGuy376]

What's a rheostat? And those all say that they're for mats.. Will they work for the lights I have?

[dannybgoode]

What's a rheostat? And those all say that they're for mats.. Will they work for the lights I have?

A Rheostat is in essence just a variable resistor. It will limit the power to a heat source by a set amount but will not then alter that power to take account of the ambient room temperature. So, on a hot day it still may allow the temperature to get to high, on a cold day too low.

Think of it like a volume control on a stereo. You can set the volume but then you may need to manually alter that volume if you open a window and a load of outside noises get in.

A thermostat automatically controls the power to the heat source keeping it constant whilst factoring in the ambient temperature.

[AwesomeGuy376]

So why would they sell it? Just curious.. I just want the best for my snake, I really do. I would buy the ones he said, but it says they're for mats and I don't have one.. Just want to know if it will work with lights?

[dannybgoode]

If it sells people will sell it if that makes sense. For some applications, where for example the ambient temperature is pretty constant, a rheostat is fine.

Someone in the States will hopefully confirm but my understanding is that Herpstat are a good make. You need a dimming thermostat to work properly with a heat bulb.

My recommendation would be to spend the few dollars more and get a ceramic heat emitter (the lightbulb type thing I mentioned previously) and a pulse stat. This will give you the best control and will be the most efficient also. Note though you can use a dimming stat with a ceramic heat emitter should you want to just get a stat for now and upgrade the actual heater but later.

[EL Ziggy]

AG- I'd ditch the multiple heat lamps and go with a radiant heat panel or under tank heater as a primary heat source. The RHP can be used as an exclusive heat source. The UTH will create a hot spot but you may need to boost your ambient temps with a CHE or the red heat bulb (on a dimmer). In any event you'll want a thermostat to regulate your temps. I use ultratherm UTH's and hydrofarm thermostats on my enclosures and haven't had any issues with them.

http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1455906988&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=hydrofarm+thermostat

RBI Radiant Heat Panels (http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels)

Ultratherm Heat Pads (http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads)

[bigsnakegirl785]

I've managed to restrict airflow using a wet towel and so far it's been holding up relatively well. I've been thinking about buying a humidifier cause I really don't want to have to buy a new cage.. The only problem is I heard that they break a lot.. But the humidity hasn't dropped past 60 since I've done my modifications, the misting is a bit annoying but I don't mind. I just really am kinda broke in the bank after the whole purchase soo yeah, can't really afford a new tank :P I've also done that bedding thing you showed in your video and it seems to help as well.

I understand the money thing, which is why I gave you advice for the tank. If you just can't get it above 60% in your tank, it will have to do. If it has a hard time shedding (which it shouldn't, but you do have 3 heat lamps), then offer a humid hide. Just a hide big enough for the snake + moss and keep the moss constantly wet. Just strain out the majority of water, and put it in soaking wet. You will have to replace it once a week, and you can even offer 24/7 outside of shed if you wish.

60% humidity is fine imo. Bsg and I have differing opinions about humidity for BCI's. 80% is up at the levels required for Brazilian Rainbow Boas and the like and there is a danger of you get it too high you're into the realms of potential RI's and the like.

Get the substrate too wet all the time and you've got problemsc and it's a tightrope that is not necessary to walk.

Out course this is the internet so you're going to get different opinions but my girl is doing just fine at 50-60% and I've not seen a care sheet yet for common boa that suggest 80% ( the highest I've seen it's 60-70%, the lowest 40-50%. I aim for low to mid 50's). Perfect sheds, eats and poos as she should and looks stunning. Recent photo below.

Bsg-do you have any links to care sheets or other resources that suggest 70-80% as I'd be interested to see what else they suggest that I could consider doing differently.

I am basing my 70-80% off the book by Vin Russo "The Complete Boa Constrictor," it is not available online to read as far as I know so you'd have to buy the book. In the book, he states that boas do best at a constant 80% humidity, but can be dropped to 60% during the winter breeding season.

As long as the high humidity isn't met with wet conditions, 80% should not cause an RI. It's not humidity itself that causes RI unless too low, although maybe 90-100% would cause an RI even if dry in a BCI. I wouldn't know, I don't keep my boa that high. I do keep him at 70-80% with zero illnesses of any sort, but I also don't keep him in wet conditions.

The cool end is roughly 83 during the day, but i really can't afford any new equipment right now :(. I kinda have to make due with what I have, the previous owner used this, and I guess he was fine. Last night I actually saw him looking out of his cage, but I walked by not knowing and he went right back in (which I assumed scared him for the rest of the night). Here's my next problem, my dad worked at a pet shop when he was 16 and is giving me endless crap about how I'm "overdoing it"... He said that humidity doesn't matter and that the snake is "too warm" and that's why he won't come out.. He's also saying I should handle the snake every day (which I'm positive is a horrible idea).. If someone can post telling why all this is wrong so I can show him it'd be great.. But I tried explaining how humidity is essential for a good shed, and explained how he shouldn't be handled for a couple weeks till he's settled.. Anyways, back on topic, like I said, I actually saw him peak his head out a bit last night, so some progress :) and I've left him alone for a couple days, and will continue to do so, so no worries there

Snakes rely on external heat to digest their food, if it isn't warm enough food could rot in their stomach. They also should be allowed to thermoregulate, which they have to do by moving between different temperature gradients. Boa constrictors are tropical snakes, why would 80-85F be too warm? I wouldn't exceed 90F, but there's no way that's too warm for them, especially if it's just a hot spot at 90F.

Your dad sounds exactly like my father was when I lived with him, it sucks having to deal with that. :(

If you want a cheap thermostat you can use in the meantime, get the Hydrofarm from Amazon, only about $30. I would advise getting a pulse-proportional thermostat ASAP, though, especially if you invest in a CHE set up. A CHE can blow up on an ON/OFF thermostat after awhile, and a pulse-proportional will also almost double your CHE's life.

(Here's the link, I currently have two of these and they seem reliable http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S)

I'd advise a Herpstat or pulse-proportional Vivarium Electronics when you can. They will be a couple hundred dollars each, but ON/OFF thermostats are not the best.

Always use a thermostat with a digital read out, the one you linked to won't be very good.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Ok so I can't really afford those heat panels.. Sorry but it's just a bit too much right now. But I think I can work with the heat lamps, the humidity rarely goes below 60 and is often 70 all day after spraying, but wetness causes RI? idk how I mist it without it getting wet.. Anyways, I'll find a way. So I'm ready to buy the thermostat, but do I order one or three? Cause I figured I could plug an extension cord into it and make 3 more ports, or is it only designed for one? Once again guys, thank you all so much for this advise it's really helped. You sure beat the n00b outta me :P. So right now, I have 2 more thermometers on the way to measure the hot and cold in the tank (right now it's in the dead center to get an average temp). I also have some plants and stuff to make it resemble a rainforest more cause he's from Central America, which when I went down there is all forest :P. But anyways, I've gotten humidity under control, and temp is mostly under control, just kinda confused cause someone said it shouldn't be as high as 85 cause he can't thermoregulate, but then BSG said that its fine soo kinda confused. Also, some happy news about him, he popped his head out a bit last night, so at least he's thinking about coming out and exploring :P but yeah, hopefully I'm doing the best I can!

[dannybgoode]

I am basing my 70-80% off the book by Vin Russo "The Complete Boa Constrictor," it is not available online to read as far as I know so you'd have to buy the book. In the book, he states that boas do best at a constant 80% humidity, but can be dropped to 60% during the winter breeding season.

Thanks BSG - I know of Vince's book but have not read it. That said I still think 70-80% is unnecessarily high for a BCI and Vince is the only person I know who suggests such levels.

When I next get paid I may invest in a copy but its pricey here in the UK.

I guess one of the issues with BCI's in particular is they are found in such a wide geographic range the conditions they live in in the wild will vary greatly. There are some BCI living in locations that will never in a million years experience humidity that high and others that probably will year round.

Each to their own though and a healthy snake is a healthy snake and there are many a healthy boa being kept at a far lower humidity than that.

[EL Ziggy]

I feel you on the RHP costs. Maybe it's something you can add on later. If I were you I'd get the UTH, thermostat, and a dimmer for your red heat bulb. I think your humidity will be fine at 50-60%. The heat bulbs may lower that a bit but you can offer a humid hide or mist your enclosure from time to time. Here's a picture of my carpet pythons setup. I'm using heat maps to create my hot spot and the IR heat bulbs to boost my ambient temps a bit. I'm going to upgrade to RHP's once they outgrow this enclosure in a year or so.

http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/t674/EL-Ziggy/Mobile%20Uploads/20151221_183001_zpszzkzck55.jpg (http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/EL-Ziggy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151221_183001_zpszzkzck55.jpg.html)

Amazon.com: Zoo Med Deluxe Dimmable Clamp Lamp with 8.5-Inch Dome, Black: Pet Supplies (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FTEQCY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00)

[bigsnakegirl785]

Ok so I can't really afford those heat panels.. Sorry but it's just a bit too much right now. But I think I can work with the heat lamps, the humidity rarely goes below 60 and is often 70 all day after spraying, but wetness causes RI? idk how I mist it without it getting wet.. Anyways, I'll find a way. So I'm ready to buy the thermostat, but do I order one or three? Cause I figured I could plug an extension cord into it and make 3 more ports, or is it only designed for one? Once again guys, thank you all so much for this advise it's really helped. You sure beat the n00b outta me :P. So right now, I have 2 more thermometers on the way to measure the hot and cold in the tank (right now it's in the dead center to get an average temp). I also have some plants and stuff to make it resemble a rainforest more cause he's from Central America, which when I went down there is all forest :P. But anyways, I've gotten humidity under control, and temp is mostly under control, just kinda confused cause someone said it shouldn't be as high as 85 cause he can't thermoregulate, but then BSG said that its fine soo kinda confused. Also, some happy news about him, he popped his head out a bit last night, so at least he's thinking about coming out and exploring :P but yeah, hopefully I'm doing the best I can!

That's because, as I mentioned earlier in the thread, misting does not provide humidity, only wetness. All you're doing is throwing water into the air to settle down on stuff. Humidity is provided by evaporation, and the amount of water you'd put into the enclosure to be evaporated from simply misting, even if you sprayed until your hands cramped up, is completely negligent compared to using the bedding itself for humidity. That is why it is only a temporary thing, if you're doing what I showed in the video, you shouldn't need to spray.

Ok let me explain the temps a little better. Imagine the cage with no heat, with a base temperature of 80F, that is the ambient. Now, add a heat source on one end for a hot spot, which should only be big enough for the snake to bask, that should be 90F. The heat from that basking spot will heat up the entire end the heater is on, creating a hot end, which should be 85F. That leaves the rest of the cage at 80F for a cool end. So, ambients of 80F, hot end of 85F, and hot spot of 90F, creating a gradient from 80F to 90F from one end of the cage to another.

[EL Ziggy]

Redtailboas.com - Amazing Boas and the Ultimate Care Guide (http://www.redtailboas.com/general_care/general_care.shtml)

Colombian Red Tailed Boa Care Sheet | Exotic Reptiles (http://www.exoticreptiles.org/care-sheets/columbian-red-tailed-boa-care-sheet/)

Red Tail Boas Care & Information (http://www.cascadekennels.com/boarding-exotic-pets/red-tail-boa-care/)

[AwesomeGuy376]

Ok I understand the temps, So I'm still curious a ot the thermostat, can I buy one and connect an extension cord to it so it connects to 3, or do I have to buy 3 thermostats, one for each light?

[AwesomeGuy376]

I just also want to thank you guys again for all this help. It's really amazing how many of you take time to help me, it really means a lot! Everything y'all have said has helped, I stopped handling him after my initial post and now he's actually out exploring! And I won't touch him till a successful feed (then after that 2 days ofc) I also got the temps about right, it's a steady 85 median with 60% humidity. I've also ordered more thermometers as I said so we will know exact temps of the cool and hot spots. I've taken BSG's advice on bedding with the humidity and helped a lot! You guys are awesome, all I'm waiting on now is info on the thermostat and I'll order it. Owning a snake I can see is a big responsibility and I'm up for the challenge, I'm gonna make sure he lives a long healthy life. and also sorry I guess for all the nooby questions, I saw another thread where I saw people get annoyed with this one guy that was worse than me when it came to questions, hopefully I'm not too bad! Thanks so much!

[Andy_G]

Once your set up is right, they are the easiest pet you could ever choose to have in your life! In regards to your thermostat question, most have more than one plug fitting, but you may need to use an extension cord provided it is okay to do as per the instruction manual that comes with the thermostat. For some, this is not an option.

As far as annoyances...it's really only when people don't listen because think they know better...yet they still ask and when they don't hear what they want it's taken personally or insulting. Don't do that and you'll be good.

[bigsnakegirl785]

I just also want to thank you guys again for all this help. It's really amazing how many of you take time to help me, it really means a lot! Everything y'all have said has helped, I stopped handling him after my initial post and now he's actually out exploring! And I won't touch him till a successful feed (then after that 2 days ofc) I also got the temps about right, it's a steady 85 median with 60% humidity. I've also ordered more thermometers as I said so we will know exact temps of the cool and hot spots. I've taken BSG's advice on bedding with the humidity and helped a lot! You guys are awesome, all I'm waiting on now is info on the thermostat and I'll order it. Owning a snake I can see is a big responsibility and I'm up for the challenge, I'm gonna make sure he lives a long healthy life. and also sorry I guess for all the nooby questions, I saw another thread where I saw people get annoyed with this one guy that was worse than me when it came to questions, hopefully I'm not too bad! Thanks so much!

As mentioned, it's usually only people who ask for advice and don't follow it, or people being rude that gets us annoyed. Most of us are not annoyed in the slightest by people genuinely wanting to learn!

[dannybgoode]

+1to what bag has said - you've asked questions, listened, asked more questions to clarify etc.

It's clear you want to properly look after your snake so It's a pleasure to help out.

Boas are awesome snakes, imo the best non-venomous snake there is and once you've got the enclosure sorted they're such a rewarding snake to own.

Keep asking and keep learning.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Still really confused about the thermostat though, sorry I know its probably clear to everyone but me XD So all i do is order them, plug the lamps in, set temp, then done? Ive also read of probes melting or something on some other website? thats kinda what i got out of it. Also, will he be fine until it gets here? It could take up to 2 weeks to get here so yeah.. Also, I'd go with the one BSG said -http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S?tag=viglink21195-20

just want to make sure this is all correct before i spent $90 :)
I think im more stressed then the snake on his first day...

[dannybgoode]

Have a look at this post I wrote about placing the stat probe. I wrote it with a ceramic heater in mind but there's no reason it won't work with a bulb.

I'd still look to get a ceramic heat bulb at store point. Should screw straight in to your light fitting and cheaper than a heat panel. Just make sure your snake can't make contact with it.

http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/general-enclosure-discussion/111433-how-properly-place-thermostat-probe-snake-viv.html

As for setting it up-yes it's very simple. Plug stat into wall, bulb into stat and set the temp.

I'll let someone else comment on the make and model. If you were on the UK it would be easy for me!

[AwesomeGuy376]

Hey guys just an update for those that care, ever since i got the temps right and listened to all of you guys, the snakes been out of his den and exploring a lot more! Hes still a bit shy around people when they come into the room, but never the less still active!

http://puu.sh/nfDtm/020eaa66b3.jpg
http://puu.sh/nfDuB/10302a07ed.jpg

[dannybgoode]

Good to see him out and about - looks to have a nice healthy body tone. Boas are very easy to over-feed and they end up on the chubby side but yours looks nice.

Leave him be another 5 days or so before trying to feed him again and let us know how you get on...

[AwesomeGuy376]

Good to see him out and about - looks to have a nice healthy body tone. Boas are very easy to over-feed and they end up on the chubby side but yours looks nice.

Leave him be another 5 days or so before trying to feed him again and let us know how you get on...

Thanks! Yea i was pretty happy to see him exploring. Actually tonight he sat and watched me for a good 30 mins XD So cute. But yea, im gonna stick with a 15 day feeding schedule. 1st and 15th of the month, and see how it goes, its what the previous owner did and i guess he did a good job taking care of him :P. And ill definitely post when i feed him, i plan on doing it march 1st

[dannybgoode]

For an adult boa I'd space that out a little more - 21 days between feeds. That said - what size prey is he on?

[AwesomeGuy376]

For an adult boa I'd space that out a little more - 21 days between feeds. That said - what size prey is he on?

He has frozen rats. Hes also a dwarf, so his feeding schedule is a bit different than normal boas

[dannybgoode]

As I say - he looks healthy enough but even accounting for him being a dwarf I wouldn't feed him any more than 2 weeks even working down to 3 weeks over time (even accounting for him being a dwarf).

Longer is better for boas...

[bigsnakegirl785]

He will be fine eating every 3-6 weeks, just the same as other boa constrictors. He honestly looks Colombian to me, males average 5'-6' so he's not small for his age at all even for a Colombian, did you get papers verifying he's a dwarf? You can stick to 3 weeks if you wish, but I would not feed any more often than that.

[AwesomeGuy376]

He will be fine eating every 3-6 weeks, just the same as other boa constrictors. He honestly looks Colombian to me, males average 5'-6' so he's not small for his age at all even for a Colombian, did you get papers verifying he's a dwarf? You can stick to 3 weeks if you wish, but I would not feed any more often than that.
The store said he was Central American, and he's 6 years old. I just listened to the previous owner, who got him from the manager of the shop and was a breeder.

[bigsnakegirl785]

The store said he was Central American, and he's 6 years old. I just listened to the previous owner, who got him from the manager of the shop and was a breeder.

Without papers, you can't claim it as a dwarf. I guess it's harmless saying it in threads, if you acknowledge you don't know, but you will not be able to sell it or sell any offspring as anything other than "unknown" without verified paperwork. Going off size alone, I still don't think it's a dwarf. The patterns look Colombian, but it could very well be a mix. All boa constrictors can be fed similarly, within that 3-6 week time frame. Some details may change slightly depending on species, like constrictor needing significantly smaller meals due to their sensitive stomachs, but they all fit within the 3-6 week schedule, and where exactly they fall on that range is more an individual thing than a species/locality-dependent thing.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Well.. I don't plan on selling or breeding him, when I buy animals I get them and take responsibility for the rest of their life and to give them the best life possible. I also don't buy animals to breed them, he's a pet, not a money maker. And I don't think a professional shop that specializes in reptiles would classify him wrong. I'll go back and get papers, but I find it kinda hard to believe that they would classify him as the wrong species saying he's a dwarf considering it's literally a shop that only sells reptiles and has for years without bad reviews...

[AwesomeGuy376]

And even if he isn't Central American I'm fine, but the manager of the store and the previous owner both said he was a dwarf soooo

[Andy_G]

Maybe it's just the pics...but I see a lot of nicaraguan (central) influence in that snake and at it's current age the smaller size would support that. Whether it's a mix or not who knows, but if I were you awesomeguy, I would call it what it was sold to me as under the circumstances...nothing more and nothing less, and try to find some kind of proof of lineage to support it in the meanwhile if it is in your interest to do so...and IF you ever sell it, sell with full disclosure.

Sounds like you're happy with your purchase and you're asking all the right questions about keeping it properly and that's really what's important here.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Thanks Andy :) I'm really happy with him. I think he's what they said he is, but even if he isn't, oh well. I like him for who he is, a nice, calm snake with personality. I'm doing my best to keep him happy and I hope he is, with all the advice in place he seems much more active and curious. Honestly one of the best pets so far I've had and it's only been a week :P what's ironic is that I used to have pet rats and now I'm feeding him rats XD but they lived past their expectancy cause of the care I took (went on a lot of forums) so hopefully Rex will be the same way :)

[macandchz]

dear ag, if you are going to seal anything around your tank or put heating pads under it, use foil tape, not duct tape. the foil tape can with-stand the heat, does not melt or come off. you do not need to add anything to his water. if you're worried use bottled water. the extra plants shouldn't bother him, but add them gradually as they get used to the order of their living space. use warm water for spraying as that helps with the humidity problem. good luck with your new snake.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Yea I've been spraying the tank and putting a wet towel over half of it. I think my last question is do I need one or three thermostats? I have 3 lights, but can I just put an extension cord to attach all three to just one thermostat?
This one in specific- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

And will he be fine for 2 weeks till I get it?
And I think the lights are 50w each

[dannybgoode]

My Rachel is a CA Bci- snakes. I expect her to reach 6' max so 4-5' for a male, assuming it is a CA, would seem about right.

Also people do have a habit of exaggerating the size of their snakes so even if a Columbian Bci then a male at 5-6' wouldn't be far off.

I also have no interest in breeding mine so kick back and enjoy the snake whatever the exact genes it carries. :)

[AwesomeGuy376]

Hey guys, just wanted to leave an update for those that were curious. So i finally got the thermostat and CHE, which have been working fine. The hotspot is set around 88 with the cool at 80 constant. Its a huge relief to have that thermostat! He's also been coming out a lot more often and seems to be comfortable switching between temp gradients. I had his first handling session a couple days ago and went really well, he was really calm and relaxed. He will be fed for the first time on Tuesday and hopefully it will go well. The only last concern is that hes stargazing, which i searched online to see IDB. I did a few more handling sessions then I did the traditional tests for IDB (\holding the end of him to see if hell climb up) which he did flawlessly, so I'm not that concerned. but yea, that's about were we are with him. Hes actually out right now staring at me XD He overall seems to be doing great and again i thank you for all yalls help :D So ill leave ya with some pics :)

http://puu.sh/np2ss/3fc831bdb9.jpg
http://puu.sh/np2uC/c3d76d66d8.jpg
http://puu.sh/np2ze/c4e46fd750.jpg
http://puu.sh/np2AU/d18be0ae4b.jpg

[bigsnakegirl785]

IBD stargazing is not what you think it is. It is not them just staring up or staring into space. That is 100% totally normal behavior for many species of snake, if the snake reacts and moves around throughout the day it's just sleeping or resting.

No, what stargazing is, in reference to IBD, is the lack of muscle control (i.e. rolling around, twisting the head, unable to right itself, etc.). It's very misleading.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Ok thanks! Again, thanks for all your help, you helped me a lot its really appreciated :)

[bigsnakegirl785]

No problem! The first one's always the hardest, you worry night and day if it will be ok! Even when you get a bunch of 'em, you worry when you first get a new one, too. I spent several years with my ball python randomly checking in on him and freaking out when he didn't move, poking him to make sure he was alive, until I learned how to make out the movements of his breathing and the teeny muscle contractions he made turning to watch me.