Honduran not pooping in a week?

[Arachnaeoccult]

He's big and theres a lot of room for those mice, he's on adult mice since there are no frozen 'large adult mice' or 'extra small mice'. His owner recommended double feeding sometimes because he has a fast metabolism.

i'm concerned that I haven't seen him poop yet and I think he should have a warm bath. last night was cold.

[EL Ziggy]

Snakes don't typically need baths. Unless you notice a hard lump or bulge near his vent I'd just wait for him to poop on his own.

[serpentgirl123]

Snakes don't typically need baths. Unless you notice a hard lump or bulge near his vent I'd just wait for him to poop on his own.


I agree with Ziggy. Some of mine make messes almost 2-3 days after a meal and I have others that need 4-10 meals before it happens.

[Jim Smith]

I think that sometimes people over think the care for their snakes. As long as the temperatures are right and the animal is eating properly and shows no sign of illness, injury, or distress, I pretty much leave them on their own as to when they drink water, poop or take a soak in the water dish. If I notice one of my snakes spending an inordinate amount of time soaking, I will examine it closely to make sure all looks okay. Just my two cents worth on keeping snakes.

[Arachnaeoccult]

Okay thank you. I gave him a bath to warm him up and hydrate him a little, he wasn't -too- upset.

[EL Ziggy]

Snakes will get all the hydration they need from their food and drinking water.

[Aaron_S]

Okay thank you. I gave him a bath to warm him up and hydrate him a little, he wasn't -too- upset.

If your husbandry is good then your snake is hydrated and getting warm enough on it's own.

It is why we offer hot sides/cool sides.

[macandchz]

is this the same snake that had the possible R.I.the other day? maybe he is getting over what was ailing him and his system is a little off. i wouldn't over do the baths and just let him do his own thing for a while.

[SnoopySnake]

You really need to leave him alone to settle in.....

[Andy_G]

You really need to leave him alone to settle in.....

This snake has already been handled multiple times, had a pointless stressful and unnecessary swim in vicks/eucalyptus water, and here's another unnecssary and stressful bath...all in about a week of being purchased...give or take a few days. How many people have to say this before you get it? It also sounds like you aren't even maintaining his temps. Keep this up and you may have a REAL RI to deal with. :mad:

[Bandit]

Just relax about him. Stop giving him baths, stop handling him so much, and just let him do his own thing for a few days. It's perfectly fine to go a week without pooping. However, the amount of stress you're probably putting on him may cause some problems. I understand you just got a new snake and you want to handle him and interact, but it's not necessary and certainly not going to benefit him in any way.

[Arachnaeoccult]

Its had another owner for years so handling isn't new.

[Minkness]

Neither is your ignorance apparently.

Any time a snake has a change. Be it the tank it's in, decorations added, where it's placed in the home, a snake can stress out. They show it in different ways, so sometimes it's hard to recognize it. That's why people keep telling you to leave it alone.

[Andy_G]

Its had another owner for years so handling isn't new.

What does this have to do with anything?

[Bandit]

As Mink said, the issue isn't about if it's been handled before. The issue is that the move probably stressed it out and you are adding unnecessary stress on top of that. Even though it stayed in the same enclosure, the move can still cause stress.

You're getting valuable advice from knowledgeable people...you should really listen to it.

[Aaron_S]

JUST in case, not that anything has happened BUT just as a reminder you can all read my avatar right about now....

[Arachnaeoccult]

I dunno man. It just sounds illogical. He's not obsessively being messed with day by day and he's become easier to hold. I don't call that 'stress'. So whats your godly wisdom about 'how long' I should avoid handling him?

I think some of this is overboard and nitpicky. I guess I wasn't supposed to handle my other two snakes after getting them either and they've done fine.

[Minkness]

It's not 'godly' it's information that has been learned and passed down and is readily available in more than one place. Some snakes do settle down right away, some don't, and sometimes 'calm' could be the snake showing his stress.

Just because it doesn't make 'sense' to you or sounds 'illogical' doesn't make it any less true.

But hey, you are gping to do whatever you want anyway, so why do you keep asking us?

[Aaron_S]

I dunno man. It just sounds illogical. He's not obsessively being messed with day by day and he's become easier to hold. I don't call that 'stress'. So whats your godly wisdom about 'how long' I should avoid handling him?

I think some of this is overboard and nitpicky. I guess I wasn't supposed to handle my other two snakes after getting them either and they've done fine.

Actually it is pretty logical.

Reptile physiology is what we have to look at here. Reptiles usually exhibit stress by becoming more lethargic and "easier to hold". Quite often the sign of not fighting is a sign of stress. As if they are playing dead because many animals won't actually eat carrion.

The rule of thumb is a week or what I tell my customers is 3 consecutive meals. We want our charges eating well and behaving normally.

About your last point, you can drive over the speed limit on any road and not get caught or have an accident, it doesn't mean it doesn't come with negative consequences each and every time.

If you're having potential health issues as you've indicated here then you're better off leaving the snake alone until it's all sorted out. It isn't helping. You want to take any and all variables out of the equation when trying to figure out a problem.

[Arachnaeoccult]

He's easy to pick up, when I'm holding him he picks up the pace and I only let him make a few wraps before I put him back. He still twitches and fidgets away when touched, he's still fast and can't be trusted to look away for a minute, he's by no means 'playing dead'. He just seems more tolerant.

[Aaron_S]

He's easy to pick up, when I'm holding him he picks up the pace and I only let him make a few wraps before I put him back. He still twitches and fidgets away when touched, he's still fast and can't be trusted to look away for a minute, he's by no means 'playing dead'. He just seems more tolerant.

I'm sorry you didn't understand my first statement.

A snake that is fidgetting away or "picks up the pace" when being held is a snake that is trying to move away or get away. It does NOT want to be held. Just because you force it to be held doesn't mean it wants to be or likes it or is in any way comfortable with it.

I presume since you say "can't be trusted to look away for a minute" tells me it has bitten you or struck at you? If so, another sign you should back off for a couple of weeks.

[Tiny Boidae]

Please, before you continue to fight with people who are just trying to help, I want you to go through this post and put a tally mark by every symptom your snake is displaying:
Signs of Comfort and Stress in Snakes (http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?221255-Signs-of-Comfort-and-Stress-in-Snakes)
We're not doing this for you, we're doing this for your snake and anything suggested is not and should not be taken as a personal insult. No one has anything to lose in this situation other than your snake, and when you bought him you agreed to take care of him for the rest of his natural born life to the best of your ability. Covering your ears and repeating "Not listening- lalalalala" isn't sticking true to this social contract.

[Minkness]

That's a great link!

[Arachnaeoccult]

Sleep or repose - not on me
Relaxed - not tense - yes
Relaxed or normal respiration rate - yes
Normal alertness - what standard of measurement?
Relaxed awareness Same as above
Calm tasting or smelling of the air - measured in rate of tongue flicking - yes
Unhurried motion - yes
Normal feeding and drinking -yes
Relaxed grasp on handler - Seems to be the case, he doesn't feel tight or weak


Attempts to escape - only the first day
Hissing - no
Non-feed induced biting- no
Over alertness - I don't know, I can open the cage without riling him if i do it lightly
Mock striking- no
Retraction of the head or tail induced by minor stimuli- I don't know what a minor stimuli is but i know they don't like their heads touched. I can touch him with only a slight retractive jerk along his body.
Immobility - whcih may included eye contact with keeper - no he goes in and out of my shirts, tries to climb into pockets and even ties around my waist like a belt. hes not immobile but I'm not sure how you would interpret these movements
Hiding the head - no?
Clutching (tightly coiling or grasping)- no. originally yes
Death feigning (in animals that display this behavior)- no
Stuttery, jittery or otherwise hesitant mobility- his movements are jerky and I believe it to be his species locomotion but I otherwise don't know if that counts as 'jittery'.
Loop pushing with the intent to resist physical contact- ?

[Andy_G]

If you aren't letting your snake settle in and eat at least twice before you bother it, than it's not good for them and a very bad habit for you to get into. This is something that everyone should follow, it's very commonplace and shouldn't be a surprise. The fact that you haven't encountered anything yet is IN SPITE of your actions, not because of them...and keep in mind you've only had a few snakes, all of which are for beginners in that they are very forgiving of mistakes...so the experience is not there but nobody will be on you for that. We are ALL trying to help you and your animals here, and you're dismissing it as useless or being "godlike" or arguing it. With all due respect, and this is is statement of observation only and not attack, but that is pure ignorance. Why ask for help if you know better than everyone? Godlike? Get serious, man.

[Arachnaeoccult]

He's eaten 3 times with me and once the night before i got him, 7 days in total. I'm advised to feed him adult mice because small rats are too big and theres none in between these sizes, and the previous owner advised 2 on some days. He has no plainly visible lumbs when he eats. the mouse is about his width maybe a little slimmer.

[Andy_G]

3 times in one week? Is that correct? What I mean to ask is, how often is he eating?

[Arachnaeoccult]

i fed him the day (he was fed the night before) I got him ,maybe 2 days later because i wasn't sure if the mouse was big enough for him and this week setting his feed day as sunday which is the day I got him.

Someone once told me feeding them as a way to gain trust too and I'm thinking it worked because he began to show more cooperative behaviour after the first 3-4 days. I fed him so much because she told me 'small to medium rats' and i figured his usual meal had to be bigger below a small ratsize somewhere

[Andy_G]

I don't think feeding builds trust in snakes. I would also say that he looks to be of excellent body shape, and he is an adult and growing quite slowly, so you won't need to feed him as often...easier on the pocketbook! Depending on who sells feeders around you, someone may sell weanling rats, a size between a pup/crawler, and a small adult rat. A weanling rat or two adult mice every 10 days should be good.

[Arachnaeoccult]

I don't think feeding builds trust in snakes. I would also say that he looks to be of excellent body shape, and he is an adult and growing quite slowly, so you won't need to feed him as often...easier on the pocketbook! Depending on who sells feeders around you, someone may sell weanling rats, a size between a pup/crawler, and a small adult rat. A weanling rat or two adult mice every 10 days should be good.

Handy. he is essentially eatings 3 times a month instead of four... What about my thick healthy two foot female ball python and her medium-large rats? easier on the pocketbook if they all eat less (except the baby corn, he's got enough on his hands with fuzzies)


As far as his excellent body shape hes also really EXTREMELY pretty and even moreso than the red-black-white one I originally was seeking but theres no such thing as an ugly snake to me. This honduran though is hardly white but a solid chrome silver color flecked with black.

[MDT]

it's kinda funny, every few months, you see this play out:

person x: "hey, my snake is doing _______, what should I do?"

forum (collective advice from species specific experts): "what you are doing isn't healthy, you should do ________ instead"

person x: "no, that's not right" (translation, "that's not what i wanted to hear")


Never fails...

sometimes humility and wisdom to know when to take advice is a great thing.

[SnoopySnake]

it's kinda funny, every few months, you see this play out:

person x: "hey, my snake is doing _______, what should I do?"

forum (collective advice from species specific experts): "what you are doing isn't healthy, you should do ________ instead"

person x: "no, that's not right" (translation, "that's not what i wanted to hear")


Never fails...

sometimes humility and wisdom to know when to take advice is a great thing.

LOL this. I gave up, this is honestly why I don't give much advice anymore. I say my part and when we're all disagreed with by OP I just try to let it go.

[Minkness]

I agree with both of you

[Andy_G]

What about my thick healthy two foot female ball python and her medium-large rats?



I'm unclear as to what you're asking. Is she on mediums and you are thinking of bumping her to large? How old is she? Do you have a pic of her with something for size reference?

[serpentgirl123]

I'm unclear as to what you're asking. Is she on mediums and you are thinking of bumping her to large? How old is she? Do you have a pic of her with something for size reference?


(Please correct me if I am wrong Arachnaeoccult) But this is how I interpreted it: That since the BP is healthy and not showing signs of stress, the overall husbandry and care can't be all bad.

IMO: Every snake is different, just like people, and what works for one is not a universal thing. Just because one snake isn't stressed or showing signs of stress, doesn't mean that under similar conditions another wouldn't be.

For example: I had my 2 adult boas since I was 16yrs old, same care, same enclosure sizes, same heat etc. My male has been docile/relaxed, eating every time (except in shed), healthy etc since I got him as was the female. But about a year ago, the female began showing signs of stress (restlessness/constantly striking)--could have been hormonal, I don't know.

I attempted to correct the situation by covering her cage more, providing more hides (never used them), getting her out more (when I could and just FYI--I hardly get them out anyway, except for cleaning or a necessary vet trip), upping her feeding size, moving her into another room, and a few vet trips just to make sure. She still was/is healthy and eating great, but I knew that she was not happy.

I felt it best that she would be happier in a place that could provide more space and less stimulation than I could. She needed to be in home that had a good 8-10foot (she was already in a 6ft) enclosure with lots of climbing space and loads of time outdoors and that is where she ended up. I have heard from the person I gave her too--that is has calmed down greatly and less striking. I had to put my own feelings aside and do what was best for HER.

[Andy_G]

(Please correct me if I am wrong Arachnaeoccult) But this is how I interpreted it: That since the BP is healthy and not showing signs of stress, the overall husbandry and care can't be all bad.


Is this what you meant arach?

[Aaron_S]

i fed him the day (he was fed the night before) I got him ,maybe 2 days later because i wasn't sure if the mouse was big enough for him and this week setting his feed day as sunday which is the day I got him.

Someone once told me feeding them as a way to gain trust too and I'm thinking it worked because he began to show more cooperative behaviour after the first 3-4 days. I fed him so much because she told me 'small to medium rats' and i figured his usual meal had to be bigger below a small ratsize somewhere

Snakes don't "trust" people. They are incapable of this.

As for feeding, use the standard on what Andy said.

For ball pythons, all of my females are strictly on medium rats. I don't need larges for any reason. From my small females to my larger ones. All the same. And they breed regularly.

[Arachnaeoccult]

She's in a 20 gallon long.

I'm not sure if she's been on larges before or if I've given her a max of size of medium. Memory alludes me. Last week she refused to eat and I'm waiting till friday. I'd upload a picture of her but I need to use someone else's USB. She's healthy but not fat and curious about everything.

[Andy_G]

I would follow Aarons advice. It's rare for a female ball to ever require larges.

[Arachnaeoccult]

Hes all dandy and he seems to like his fake plants I added in. The snoot is strong with this one.

[Arachnaeoccult]

I'm buying him some sphagnum moss for a humidity box now.