Custome Enclosure Ideas

[Minkness]

Hey guys! SoOOooOo....as the closing date inches ever closer (end of feb!) I am fantasizing about allll the stuff I want to build..starting woth Treasure's 5x2x2 enclosure!

Now, I have been looking at materials available at home depot and am blown away by the selection. Since I am going for an asthetic look as well as durability and functionality, I am going for specific materials. I just need to know if what I want to do, is actually doable since it will be housing a reptile.

1st of all is size. I figure that for durability I should have the main frame be 2x4. But, will 2x2 work ok as well? For the siding, I actually want that wood plank look, so I am thinking of doing 1x4. Will that be strong enough to hold up to a 6fl foot boa? (Keep in mind that I will have a middle support beam under, behind, ontop, and in the front). I also want the enclsoure on casters.does anyone have a suggestion of the type I should get to ensure they don't break off?

Next are chemicals...

I know that I shouldn't use ceder or pine, however I am seeing that alot of the wood is "kiln baked". Is that ok? I am also seeing a type of wood labled only as 'common'. Anyone know what that is? Now, for the asthetic side of things....I want to stain the inside of the enclosure cherry and paint the outside black. I would of course need to seal all of this wood as well. So, would I need to worry about any sealant or stains becoming tox when I add the RHPs and florecent lights? What brand of sealant should I look for?

Installation of electronic devices....

What is the best way to install an RHP and lights? What kind should I be looking at for this size enclosure? (Keep in mind it will be intended for a boa).

Please let me know if I have forgotten anything, or, if my plans are just dangerous (to the snake).

[trailblazer295]

I'd suggest using 2x4 for the base part of the frame. I suspect a 2x2 could start to bow due to the length and weight pressing in the middle. 2x4s are cheap so best to have a frame you know won't warp on you.

With planks you'll have to make 100% certain that all the cracks in between each plank are water tight and sealed. You'll quickly find that planks are often warped one axis or another or both. Getting enough pieces that are straight could be a nightmare. It could be added to the outside for aesthetics but on the inside moisture etc could get into the cracks and cause issues.

Each piece of wood be it 2x4, plank etc you should check one by one to see if it's straight. You'll find many that are quiet twisted up.

Look for dolly casters, they come in various sizes but if they are made to handle few hundred pounds a boa moving around in a wood box is nothing.

RHP size depends on the cage size, venting, ambient room temperature. I'd contact pro products when you get to that stage. They asked a lot of questions about my PVC cages before suggesting which model was the right one.

[Minkness]

Can someone chip in about the chemical sde of this? Stains, sealants, ect?

[RAD House]

You want to stick with a water based polyurethane sealant or a latex paint. The sealant will hold up better. I used a stain water based polyurethane combination on my diy terrariums that simplified the process. As long as you seal the wood well the type of wood should not matter. If you do not want to worry about it kiln baked pine should have any harmful chemicals removed, and melamine is already well sealed. Other than that the options get pricey fast. For my enclosures I took apart and old plywood entertainment center, that I got for free on craigslist, and sealed the heck out of the wood. Just make sure you let whatever sealant you use dry for at least a week before putting any animal in it. I also lined the bottom with that sheet protectant they make for drawers and sealed the edges with silicon for extra protection.

[Andy_G]

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa33/UncleRoy_bucket/IMG_0034.jpg

The absolute best IMO. I would do at least 3 coats, but ideally 5. The outdoor stuff is superior. So many people use melamine and claim it to be 100% waterproof, but I have heard of some awful stories where someone with a LOT of experience building cages and keeping snakes had tried to move their BRB cage and the bottom had rotted and fell right out while moving it because of the humidity. It's also heavier than hell...but it is cost effective.

[Minkness]

Thanks guys!

[reptiledude987]

When I made my big custom enclosure I didnt use a frame at all. I used thick plywood (3/4") with a nice finished piece on both sides for asthetics and used a router to do a t&g. In the groove I used pl construction adhesive. Be careful with that as it will stop the wood from taking any stain and is a royal pain in the @#$ to sand off. Then once it was glued used a rubber mallet to get it snug then used a brad nailer just for good measure.

[Minkness]

Good to know, however these enclosures will be a base to stacking other enclosures on top, so will need to be load bearing. I can certainly dothe smaller enclosures that way though!

[reptiledude987]

With mine I had several glass units on top of it with no issues. I totally get your structural concern however for the asthetics I havent figured out a way to make 2x4 frames pretty.

[Minkness]

Lol. I actually like the look of the pannels. So just adding a nice cherry stain before I begin construction will be pretty enough for me. The end resuld should be cherry inside, shiny black paint on the outside, silver casters, and if any other hardware needs to show, it will also be silver. The plan is to eventually have 3 matching enclosures that go along a wall in my bed room, and then others will stack on top of them. =)

My pmain concern would be if the stain or sealant would cause bad fumes when exposed to an RHP or humidity. I plan on also sealing the all the corners with silicon to help hold in humidity.

[Andy_G]

The stuff I posted won't give any fumes off whatsoever when exposed to heat or humidity if it's used and cured properly. The only reason that stuff doesn't last forever outside is because of the sun.

[Minkness]

Hey, that's great to know! Thanks!

[McCarthy Boas]

Here is a link to my EZ - cage prints that are on my website. These prints are for 3 foot, 4 foot, 6 foot and 8 foot cages. I also have cut sheet and a hardware list for each cage. I also tell you how to seal your wood cage and there is a print to show you how to layout the track for the sliding doors. This info is for a basic cage not my custom furniture grade cages. I do seal both cages the same way.

Here is the link to the basic cage prints.
EZ Cage Prints (http://www.mccarthyboas.com/EZ_Prints.html)

Take care
Tom

[Minkness]

Thanks! I want these to be almost 'furniture grade' as you put it. But those prints really help!

[REM955]

The final picture does look quite good. I think if you wanted to go beyond that it is either shelling out big bucks for a carpenter or get a cage from these guys...:
Reptile Cages : iguana cage, bearded dragon cage, reptile enclosure, custom wood reptile cages, snake cage, lizard cage (http://www.cagesbydesign.com/t-majesticreptile.aspx)

Lovely design, McCarthy. I wrote out designs with my Dad, who at least knows crown molding, and I can't get past not having an explicit frame in place, worrier and non-engineer that I am (disclosure). I notice in your design you have just the wood walls propping each other up.
I don't suppose you have an idea of how much weight they can support in terms of other cages on top of each other?

[McCarthy Boas]

The final picture does look quite good. I think if you wanted to go beyond that it is either shelling out big bucks for a carpenter or get a cage from these guys...:
Reptile Cages : iguana cage, bearded dragon cage, reptile enclosure, custom wood reptile cages, snake cage, lizard cage (http://www.cagesbydesign.com/t-majesticreptile.aspx)

Lovely design, McCarthy. I wrote out designs with my Dad, who at least knows crown molding, and I can't get past not having an explicit frame in place, worrier and non-engineer that I am (disclosure). I notice in your design you have just the wood walls propping each other up.
I don't suppose you have an idea of how much weight they can support in terms of other cages on top of each other?

I am not sure how much weight they can hold but they are strong, If you noticed the top and bottom sit on top of the sides not butted up to the sides. Doing it this way gives this type of cage more strength. The other way the top could collapse and break away from the screws. Now with my custom cages I use dado and rabbit joints to put them together and this makes them very strong.

http://www.mccarthyboas.com/TomInCage01.JPG

As you can see the bottom of the cage is not the top of the cage above it.
http://www.mccarthyboas.com/KaneMatMounted02.JPG


http://www.mccarthyboas.com/Mary_Cage01.jpg

http://www.mccarthyboas.com/Tomscage3red.jpg

http://www.mccarthyboas.com/ShannonCage04_28_2003_01.JPG

Take care
Tom

[chairman]

If you definitely want an internal frame of 2x4s, why not use luan board on both the outside and inside and fill the gap with insulation? If I recall your future reptile room properly, you have a mostly glass external door that is going to lose heat easily. Insulation could prove helpful.