Things to try for a baby hoggie who hasn't eaten in over a month

[lupegirl8]

I made a post right after I got my baby hoggie about how she was refusing to eat. Well I've had her for a month and 2 weeks now and she still is refusing. She was eating frozen thawed pinkie at the pet store I got her from, but despite trying everything she won't eat for me.

Last week I took her to my vet (who is excellent; lots of experience with reptiles) and he said she looked healthy, active, alert, and didn't seem too thin. He was reluctant to tube-feed an animal that seems so healthy (especially when she is so small that tube feeding will be really tricky) so he recommended I wait another 2 weeks and come back in again if she still isn't eating.

So really I'm just looking for other tricks to try, even weird far out stuff. She comes out flicking her tongue at me looking for food, but then gets defensive and runs away after mock-striking it a few times.

What I've tried so far
-braining
-cutting the head off/splitting the head/splitting in half
-getting the pinkie really hot
-getting the pinkie only about skin temperature
-scenting with tuna
-scenting with a live tiger salamander
-scenting with chicken broth (recommended by the vet)
-tong feeding (multiple times)
-leaving the pinkie in a dark, hidden spot in her tank (multiple times)
-leaving her in a small dark box with the pinkie overnight (multiple times)
-rubbing the blood/tuna fluid/brains of the pinkie in her face

Future ideas (let me know if you've had success with these)
-asking the pet store if I can scent a pinkie with one of their frogs/toads
-rubbing her face in warm, chicken flavored baby food (recommended by vet)
-feeder fish (which kind would be best for this? and live or dead?)
-egg whites

I know someone is going to suggest trying a live pinkie, but I discussed that with the vet and he agreed that it probably isn't a good idea in this case.

[Minkness]

Leave her alone...

I know you don't want to hear that, but it's what needs to be fone. =/

[Tsubaki]

If you've only had her for that long, and already tried all that. I havd to side with Mink. Make sure her surroundings are good and leave her alone completely.

[Jim Smith]

I would also consider giving her a live pinkie and leaving her alone with it. I find that the live movements often stimulate the feeding response. If she takes that, then keep her on live for a few more weeks and wean her over to F/T.

[Humble308]

I'm finding more and more that I have to leave the pinks in Estella's cage. She's stopped feeding with tongs and just hisses and patrols the enclosure. I just leave it on the big rock and usually she'll get it down within the hour.

Did your vet give reasons not to feed a live pinkie? Live pinks can't really harm anything, they're blind and helpless...and your snake can swallow them whole. Live feeding a fuzzy or full grown is a different story

I agree with Minkness and Tsubaki. 11 different methods of feeding over a month and 2 weeks is alot. You're sort of smothering her in care and concern. I don't have anything more to offer other than some of the things that had worked for my snake. Your vet said she looks healthy...Great! Leave her in her cage for 2 weeks without going in the room other than to top off her water and you should find a pretty hungry snake. All the best.

[ManSlaughter33]

Leave it aloen for at least a week. Don't even look at her lol.

Then try braining a pinky again
If nothing, leave alone for another week.

[Minkness]

More like l...leave her alone for 2-3 weeks....I once had to leave one alone for a whole month before they would take anything...they are very stuborn...

[prairiepanda]

Sounds like she's stressed out over being bothered so much. That many attempts at feeding in such a short time is quite a lot. You should be waiting at least a week between each attempt, even if she refuses to eat. That gives her a chance to calm down and de-stress. Also, I advise against rubbing anything on her face. Putting stuff on the mouse's face, yes(and actually the chicken baby food might be a good idea as it has a very strong smell; just make sure it's one that is made only of chicken and water and nothing else) But rubbing stuff directly on the snake's face will just stress her out.

Try to reduce stress as much as possible for her. Don't touch her unless absolutely necessary, and don't open the enclosure more than you have to. It might help to add more hiding spots for her as well. I know it sounds really lame because you'll barely see her and won't get to interact with her, but these are only temporary measures until she's eating consistently(at least 2 or 3 meals in a row before you start introducing more interaction)

Once she's had a chance to cool down for a week or more without any excessive stress, you can either try a live pinky(pinks have no teeth or claws to hurt the snake with, so they can be left in overnight unlike older feeders) or try putting a bit of chicken baby food on a warm pinky. Just try one thing, though. Leave it in the cage overnight, right in front of the hide she's in so she doesn't have to go out in the open, and cover the cage with a towel or something so that she won't be disturbed by activity in the room or lighting.

[lupegirl8]

For the record my vet said that it was perfectly fine to attempt feeding twice a week (which is what I have been doing) as long as she is not hiding all the time. She sits out in the open area at the front of the cage looking at me a lot and when I open the cage she comes towards me with her tongue flicking looking for food. So she's not acting like a scared snake that is terrified of my presence.

Leaving her alone for over a week didn't work last time I tried it, but I'm trying it again in the space between vet visits. I guess I'll try a brained pinkie with warm chicken baby food when the time comes. Do you think I should try cutting the pinkie up since she seems kinda intimidated by the full size one? Also is it better to hold it in front of her with the tongs wiggling it and then leave it in there if she doesn't take it, or is it better to just leave it in there without even showing it to her?

And just to be clear I HAVE NOT BEEN HANDLING HER. My only interaction with her has been to change her water, offer food twice a week, and occasionally weigh her (at the request of my vet). Since the vet visit (about a week ago) I haven't even been weighing her.

[ManSlaughter33]

No offense but your vet saying a live pinky isnt a good idea, is a red flag for "little to no real experience" in snake keeping. Knowing about snakes and illnesses is different to actual snake keeping. Why can't you feed a live one? it cant even open its eyes it is no harm to your snake :S

[Minkness]

If you are just going to do what your vet says, why are you asking us? This attitude is highly annoying from anyone who posts asking for help with anything. Do what you want, but the best thing is to just leave her alone for a WHILE. I have personally learned by trial and error and from some amazing people on this forum and others. I am not doubting your vet as it sounds like they know what they are doing since even they say your snake is FINE....the only criticism I have is that they agree that twice a week is acceptable, rub baby food on it's face, and not to offer it a viable food source of a live pinky whoch may actually be the best option.....

But hey...your vet went to school for aaaaall sorts of animals and charges you for everything even when nothing is wrong....so listen to them. Not like we know anything.

[ManSlaughter33]

If you are just going to do what your vet says, why are you asking us? This attitude is highly annoying from anyone who posts asking for help with anything. Do what you want, but the best thing is to just leave her alone for a WHILE. I have personally learned by trial and error and from some amazing people on this forum and others. I am not doubting your vet as it sounds like they know what they are doing since even they say your snake is FINE....the only criticism I have is that they agree that twice a week is acceptable, rub baby food on it's face, and not to offer it a viable food source of a live pinky whoch may actually be the best option.....

But hey...your vet went to school for aaaaall sorts of animals and charges you for everything even when nothing is wrong....so listen to them. Not like we know anything.

^^ pretty much yep

[Little Wise Owl]

I had a baby female who refused to eat until I put her into a smaller enclosure. She was about 8 inches log and I put her into a sandwich Tupperware with aspen chips and a tiny hide. And most importantly I left her alone. If her enclosure is too big then there's a chance she's just insecure and stressed. My male anaconda morph also did not eat until being moved into a smaller tub.

So my advice would be to move her to a tiny enclosure and leave her alone. In a week or two offer a live pinky. Rinse and repeat if it fails. If she's truly stubborn try a live rosy red minnow. A breeder I know had a super conda morph who refused literally everything except for live rosy red minnows.

[Little Wise Owl]

Something small like this would work too. Grreat Choice® Critter Keeper Small Animal Home (http://m.petsmart.ca/h5/hub?id=%2Fsmall-pet%2Ftravel-carriers%2Fgrreat-choice-critter-keeper-small-animal-home-zid36-20360%2Fcat-36-catid-600029%3Fnull)

Right now she needs security and to be left alone. Don't bug her unless it's to change water or if she's made a massive mess.

But leave her alone!

[lupegirl8]

When I say "my vet said this" it is not because I am undermining your opinion it is because I want to give background (so you can take the vet's opinion into account when you give your advice) and explain why I did certain things. Since when is it forbidden to get opinions from more than one source? Just because I value the vet's opinion doesn't mean I can't also incorporate advice from other experienced keepers.

My vet used to be the reptile house vet at a zoo and has experience not only with keeping snakes but specifically with keeping hognose snakes. He was also highly recommended by several experienced reptile keepers as well as by the Reptile Humane Society. I have used him before for treating my turtles (animals with which I am VERY experienced) and everything he said was spot on. I know the kind of vets you are talking about, and have had the unfortunate experience of meeting some (which has made me very wary of exotic vets), but I assure you he is not one of them. But hey I should value the advice of strangers on the Internet over a certified and highly recommended vet shouldn't I?

He actually said to put a spoonful of warm chicken baby food in front of her face so she can flick it with her tongue, so I suppose I worded that incorrectly. And his rationale for not feeding live food was 1) it can be hard to switch from live to frozen thawed and if I can't get her to switch I'll eventually have to feed her food that could hurt her, 2) she seems intimidated by the size of the pinkie so a live, moving pinkie might scare her even more, 3) hognoses generally prefer amphibians so something that smells even more like a rodent will not necessarily entice her, and 4) she was eating frozen thawed before so that's probably what she is more used to.

However I would like to respectfully request that we move away from the discussion of whether or not my vet is competent. I trust him and all the experienced keepers I know trust him. Besides that's not really the point here. And I'm not going to offer live. The vet didn't think it was necessary and that's enough for me. Let's move on.

The point is: I am going to try the waiting method you suggested again. I am going to wait to feed her for pretty much the rest of the time I have until the next vet appointment (it will be about a week and 2ish days). Now I want to know how you would recommend that I offer the pinkie when it is time to try feeding her again.

[Little Wise Owl]

I'm going to stress putting her into a smaller enclosure along with leaving her alone. In another post I think you said she was originally in a 5 gallon at the store and now she's in a 10 gallon. That's too big. Baby hogs stress out easily. I really think she should be put into a smaller cage until she's readily feeding.

TL;DR
Put her in a small enclosure (similar to the one I linked above) with a UTH and leave her alone. Do not handle, look or disturb her at all unless absolutely necessary. Then a two weeks later offer a warm f/t pinky.

This is what I kept my 10 gram babies in when they weren't eating (they were previously kept in a 10 gallon too)

Worked like a charm. Now they're in much larger tubs in a rack and eating voraciously
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/10501709_10156189414320134_585193699363888396_n.jp g?oh=41e2634cca648c68c7656ffc7bb0cc0a&oe=56CC8307

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/12074663_10156189414370134_1879047277303744703_n.j pg?oh=8237f9c0d674e4dab0bcdd90f355c807&oe=56CB91EA

[Minkness]

I kept my babies in 3 gallon kritter keepers, then 5 gallon tanks, and only get up to 10 gallons when I see them being overly restless in the 5 gallon. My 2 larger females are now in fairly large tubs. So, that makes 2 juvie males in 10 gallons, 1 small juvie male in a 5 gallon, and 2 adult females in 16 qt tubs. No one is moved up until they are feeding/shedding properly and they show an interest in a larger enclosure.

For a while I had one that would only eat if I put him in a metal water bottle in complete darkness with his pinky. 5 mins later...no pinky. He now readily takes pinkies off the tongs (after hissing several times).

Also, it doesn't hurt to leave the pinky in the small enclosure for a full 24 hours. The stink attracts them. Another of mine went through a phase where that's the only way he would eat them....so happy he's over that now....