Questions about AP cages.

[TxScarlet15]

I'm thinking I want to upgrade my MBK to either the T11 or T12 AP cage and am also looking into getting the T3 for my corn when he gets big enough. I have some questions though for anyone who has AP cages. 1. How hard is it to clean? I would probably start out with a regular substrate but would most likely want to go to bio-active eventually, so that's my next question, how hard is it to do bio-active in one of these? 2. How do you work out lighting? does it have built in fixtures and if so how do you regulate the wattage? Would the flexwatt heat tape be better for keeping temps and if so do you install it yourself? 3. Which is better, acrylic or glass doors? If anybody has some detailed pics of their AP cages and how you have it set up I would greatly appreciate seeing them!

[Mikoh4792]

1. Not hard to clean. I just use a cleaner like Healthy Habitat and disinfectant like f10 and wipe with paper towels. No experience with bio-active.


2.

For lighting: You can order AP cages with an LED strip or Flourescent fixture. LED options are not listed on the website, but you can e-mail AP if you'd like to go with LED's.(I like the LED's better as they produce very little heat, and last longer)

For heating: There is an option for AP to cut out a circle and install a screen mesh so you can use heat lamps. You can also have AP install a radiant heat panel. I prefer heat panels as it does not require a screen cutout(loss of heat and humidity), and allows for easier stacking of cages. You can install heat tape or heat mats yourself, or have AP do it.

3. None is really better, it depends on what you prefer. Acrylic scratches easier, but is lighter and does not shatter like glass. I prefer glass.

[EL Ziggy]

I just got a few T8s and really couldn't be happier. I use aspen and haven't had to clean mine yet but I think it'll be pretty easy. I have the AP LED light strips and use UTH's as my primary heat source. I did get the 8in. screen cut outs on two enclosures for my heat lamps and/or CHE's. I'll probably go with RHP's once I move the carpets into their separate enclosures. They're in a divided T8 for now. I have the sliding glass doors and I love them. Here's a picture of 3 of mine.
http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/t674/EL-Ziggy/Mobile%20Uploads/20150901_233730-1_zpsjl1xgken.jpg (http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/EL-Ziggy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150901_233730-1_zpsjl1xgken.jpg.html)

[TxScarlet15]

I like UTH's in general but I imagine if I went with a bio-active setup it wouldn't be able to get through the layers enough to be effective. I've never used RHP's before and am not too familiar with them in general. I know I would like to have the LED lights at least but I'm not sure how that would work in combination with the RHP. I use a heat lamp right now for my GBK's vivarium, but I'm struggling with her soil because it gets dried out so fast because of the lamp. I really like the look of the AP cages, just trying to figure out what would work best for what I want to do, I don't want to end up spending a bunch of money and not be happy with the outcome. And thanks for sharing your pic EL-Ziggy, looks incredible!

[TxScarlet15]

Another question: what do you think about the basking shelf for colubrids? I plan on putting some of my own branches in it anyway but was just wondering if that might be a nice addition.

[MDT]

I have 9 AP cages, 5 of the Carpet cages with the basking shelves, and four T3's. I have the integrated LED lights, and ordered the FlexWatt option for all of them. Running the lights on a standard timer from Home Depot, and the temps regulated by Vivarium Electronics thermostats (VE-300's). The carpets def use the basking shelf, the retics are in the T3's. I have tried using loose substrate, but found that the ease of cleaning is better for me using productinfo (http://www.cageliners.net/dclproductinfo.htm) . I got the acrylic sliding doors which are functioning well at the time for me.

Best cage I have used, hands down.

[chairman]

I have a couple AP T10s with hinged acrylic doors. They're fantastic. You can't do bioactive in them because there isn't enough depth available for substrate. I use cypress as a substrate and you can grow low plants with shallow root systems, but not true bioactive.

[Mikoh4792]

How much depth do you need? AP is very customizable so you can ask them to give you any depth you'd like.

[chairman]

I think that you need about 6" to do bioactive. Could probably order a T11 or T12 and ask them to cut a T8 door into the front. But I don't know if you could stack them with that much weight in them. They're sturdy, but maybe not 100lbs of substrate sturdy (except for the bottom cage).

[TxScarlet15]

I have a couple AP T10s with hinged acrylic doors. They're fantastic. You can't do bioactive in them because there isn't enough depth available for substrate. I use cypress as a substrate and you can grow low plants with shallow root systems, but not true bioactive.

Do you have any pics of your setup? What kind of plants are you talking about specifically? I don't have any experience with cypress but what I have seen of it I never cared for the look of, and I have determined that I detest aspen. Even if I can't go bio-active in an AP cage I would like it to look as natural as possible.

[chairman]

Sure, a carpet setup (pothos really just starting out):
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad77/chairman_tfo/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2013502_rewind_zpsevup8gc3.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/chairman_tfo/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2013502_rewind_zpsevup8gc3.jpg.html)

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad77/chairman_tfo/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2013197_rewind_zpsxbg4l6cc.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/chairman_tfo/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2013197_rewind_zpsxbg4l6cc.jpg.html)
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad77/chairman_tfo/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2014034_rewind_zpsgkvscnik.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/chairman_tfo/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2014034_rewind_zpsgkvscnik.jpg.html)

And a cornsnake:
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad77/chairman_tfo/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2015513_rewind_zpsyondxeio.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/chairman_tfo/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2015513_rewind_zpsyondxeio.jpg.html)
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad77/chairman_tfo/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2016356_rewind_zpswyzcp2ww.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/chairman_tfo/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151005_2016356_rewind_zpswyzcp2ww.jpg.html)

[TxScarlet15]

Is the blue lighting the LED fluorescent? What are the other lights and what do you use as your heat source? Beautiful carpet by the way!

[chairman]

The carpet has a line of led lighting. I bought a 50' roll of lights that is designed to get cut like flexwatt is; it is powered by a DC power supply from goodwill. The cornsnake as a led puck light.

The carpet also has a light fixture with a cfl in it. There is heat cable wrapped around a perch for belly heat.

The cornsnake has a 25 watt xenon puck light that creates a basking spot as well as heats the enclosure.

[TxScarlet15]

One more question (well, actually a couple lol) the option that AP has is for 11" heat tape, is that width or length? Would it be sufficient enough to heat the appropriate amount of cage? Would I be better of buying my own heat tape separately (I'm not very good with DIY and know nothing of electricals)? What is a puck light and a cfl? I'm not familiar with those terms yet.

[MDT]

Mine is width (I believe they all are).

[chairman]

A puck light is a light that is roughly the same size and shape as a hockey puck. They make them for "under cabinet" applications. But they happen to be low wattage xenon/halogen bulbs that put out a good combination of heat and light, can be run on a rheostat or proportional thermostat, and don't come with the burn risks associated with trying to install an in-cage heat light or ceramic heat emitter.

A cfl is a compact fluorescent, just your regular spiral fluorescent bulb. Just provides light with very little heat output.

[TxScarlet15]

Back again everybody! So I ordered the T11 and it's currently in the making, but now I have another question. I'm going with a RHP from Reptile Basics and I need help figuring out if I will need the 80w or the 120w. It's for a MBK.

[EL Ziggy]

Back again everybody! So I ordered the T11 and it's currently in the making, but now I have another question. I'm going with a RHP from Reptile Basics and I need help figuring out if I will need the 80w or the 120w. It's for a MBK.

The 80w RHP should be just fine. I think you got a little more cage than you need with the T11 though. A MBK would do just fine in a T8 or T10 as they really don't climb that much. I'm thinking of getting the T11's for my carpets. I actually have my 2 kings in a divided T8 with a basking shelf and they have plenty of room. They're 2 & 3 years old and both are about 4ft. I'll move them into individual enclosures if they outgrow the ones they're in but I really don't see that happening.

[TxScarlet15]

I had thought about going with less height, but decided I wanted more inches to work in some low branches and what not for him to climb around on. No, I don't expect him to be climbing around like an arboreal snake would, but he's still a fairly active snake and I want to give him that extra room if he so chooses to use it. I spoil my dogs and cats, why not my snakes? But thank you anyway for your input, it does give me some ideas for Scarlet my smaller kingsnake.