Borneo Short-tailed python will not eat

[Kneff1175]

I purchased a 2 yr old BST 2 months ago at a local reptile show. They said she was nice and docile and ate regularly. She was in shed, but aside from that looked very healthy. Since Ive has her she will not eat. Ive tried f/t, live, pre-killed, rats, and mice to no avail. I went back to the show a month later, it comes once a month, and ask what she ate. The young lady said that she was eating african soft fur. Of course no one locally has any and the nearest in 200 miles away. Shouldnt a bst basically eat anything? It has been 2 months since Ive had her and they said she ate maybe 2 weeks before that. She in on cypress, has a litter box filled with water, temp is 87 on hot, 80 on cool. Humidity is kept usually at 70%. She is on a timer for lights, and thermostat, and has a hide/sweat box that I keep with sphangum moss. Her enclosure is 2 1/2 ft by 1 1/2 ft. there are no limbs as she is too big too climb. I try to mimic swampy conditions. I covered the fronts and sides lastnight and the weird thing is she was really in a foul mood this morning. Maybe she couldnt see me coming and I startled her, but she seemed on edge. Usually shes very docile. Almost dogish. I know with BSTs that can change in a heartbeat. I have 7 other different variety snakes and all but her and a rosy boa are eating fine. Should I be worried? It is starting fall here and outside has been really cold and rainy. Could that effect her? There is a window in the sun room where they can see the outside? Im grasping at straws I know. Shes a big girl but how long is too long for a BST. She also has not defecated, but Ive read that BSTs rarely do. She soaks, she burrows, she goes in her hide, when she yawns her mouth is nice and pink. I just dont know. Any help would be appreciated.

[Aaron_S]

Dude, you have serious issues with your snake keeping.

It's clear you keep handling your animals when you don't have their husbandry down. Stop that. Until you do, I doubt you'll solve your problems and I refuse to give more advice until it does.

Please stop.

[Kneff1175]

dude I don't know who or what you are, but I highly doubt I need your advice. I'm pretty sure that my cages, rooms, and snakes have more time, money, and care that you could possibly know. But hey that's why they are called opinions huh. And by the way this snake never gets handled. Not until she eats. The picture of her on the ground is about 2 months old. This is the problem with these sites, everyone is a professional. People like yourself are the reason why there is so much confusion. Instead of helping, you assume your better and go from there. Please do not reply to any threads that have my name on them. And exactly what issues with husbandry are you referring. The heat, thermostats, cypress mulch, sphagnum moss, water bowls, humidity? Out of the 15 reptiles I have, 2 will not eat. Pretty good considering one was a show purchase, and one was bought as a hatchling online. I just want to know if someone else has this problem with BSTs. Maybe I was not clear in my post. She does NOT get handled until she eats. I keep her in her hide and move the entire hide out when I clean. So maybe a total of 30 seconds she has contact with a human.

[Kneff1175]

Sorry for the rudeness but this guy just really worked a raw nerve. I know that is the only reason some people even reply. I usually do'nt let kids like this get to me, but this dude.....

[Aaron_S]

dude I don't know who or what you are, but I highly doubt I need your advice. I'm pretty sure that my cages, rooms, and snakes have more time, money, and care that you could possibly know. But hey that's why they are called opinions huh. And by the way this snake never gets handled. Not until she eats. The picture of her on the ground is about 2 months old. This is the problem with these sites, everyone is a professional. People like yourself are the reason why there is so much confusion. Instead of helping, you assume your better and go from there. Please do not reply to any threads that have my name on them. And exactly what issues with husbandry are you referring. The heat, thermostats, cypress mulch, sphagnum moss, water bowls, humidity? Out of the 15 reptiles I have, 2 will not eat. Pretty good considering one was a show purchase, and one was bought as a hatchling online. I just want to know if someone else has this problem with BSTs. Maybe I was not clear in my post. She does NOT get handled until she eats. I keep her in her hide and move the entire hide out when I clean. So maybe a total of 30 seconds she has contact with a human.

I edited out all the parts that were in clear violation of the forum rules.

What confusion? I've given you advice in your other thread and you refused to take it.

These snakes are monster eaters. Trust me, I've owned a number of them. There's something off and it starts with your handling. You say she's not handled but then in your first post you talk about how docile she usually is. On top of that you've shown you handle your non-eating rosy boa so it's safe to assume you would do the same with this snake.

You can blame the source of where you got the animals but I doubt the animals are at fault here.

Aside from that, 99% of all feeding problems exist in the husbandry of the keeper. Having two animals in your home that aren't eating leads me to believe you fit in the 99%. Until you can admit to the fact you have done something wrong you won't solve these issues. I've been around a long time so I've seen this type of issue before.

To be somewhat fair, it could simply be your temp guns or humidity gauges are broken and aren't reading the right temps/humidity.

[infernalis]

Constant human handling, lack of cover (snakes need security) and the open mesh top all are likely playing a role here...

[PatrickT]

why is there no hiding box? how are humidity levels? hy is the top not covered?

[Little Wise Owl]

Maybe I misread but the op does have a hide box in the enclosure. I found that I have more success with keeping non-eating snakes in tubs when they're young. Can you post a picture of the full enclosure? The snake might feel too exposed. Add more cover and hides.

[PsychoSnake]

It is starting fall here and outside has been really cold and rainy. Could that effect her?
Yes. Some snakes go off feed when fall/winter approaches. I have a rosy boa that becomes a difficult feeder during this time of year. She snaps out of it in February. Right now she is spitting her food out of her mouth! The local reptile store here last year got a lot of complaints of snakes going off feed last November. Advice from my vet and the reptile store was as long as they are at a good weight and maintain weight don't worry until you hit the six month mark for an adult. Keep offering and try different foods. Maybe see about ordering f/t African soft furs online?

[marvelfreak]

Do you know what time of day they use to feed? I had one Borneo that would only eat live and never before it was dark outside. Pickiest damn eater i ever had.
Now to your set up Bloods and short tails do best in totes or tubs. But working with what you have it in. You need to cover at least 2/3 of the top of your cage to help hold your humidity in. Your low side should be closer to 73. Unlike Reds Bloods i found Short tail prefer it a little cooler. Also you need to ditch the light. The light coming into the room is plenty. Having a light on will stress them out. They prefer it darker makes them feel safer. Bloods and Short tails stress easy so more than likely it's just stress. How do you check temps? If you don't have one you really need to get a temp gun.

[Kneff1175]

ok yall so I hav her in a tub. Ill put up pics and will yall say if she needs anything else. For the record. I hardly handle her. Just to move her to clean. Ive actually been doing that part well. Everywhere was closed lastnight so I still have her on cypress. The humidity does stay up better. But what about heat. My snake room stays at 81. Her temp this morning was 79.6. What do I do for extra heat? Does she even need it or is 79 good. It will probably raise to 81-83. I cant use a pad with this species. Any more advice?

[Kneff1175]

Thanks for all your help. And I mean that ya'll. So many people rip others for making a mistake, or not knowing about a species. Its a shame too. That's why there is so much confusion and in-fighting on these forums. I wish everyone would stop trying to compete for "most knowledgeable, and just help to advance this hobby before its completely outlawed in the states.

[Kneff1175]

Yes. Some snakes go off feed when fall/winter approaches. I have a rosy boa that becomes a difficult feeder during this time of year. She snaps out of it in February. Right now she is spitting her food out of her mouth! The local reptile store here last year got a lot of complaints of snakes going off feed last November. Advice from my vet and the reptile store was as long as they are at a good weight and maintain weight don't worry until you hit the six month mark for an adult. Keep offering and try different foods. Maybe see about ordering f/t African soft furs online?
I have a rosy that wont eat also. She never has. Shes a hatchling that I got in April from back water. Ive tried it all with her as well. These two are the only ones that I have this problem with. She in in a ten gallon, two hides. Low humidity. Hot side 90 cool side 80-83. She moves sooooo slow. Ive had to force feed her 3 times. Im serious with her Ive tried everything. I used to handle her but havent touch her in 3 weeks. Well thats not accurate. I have only touched her to force feed her. She doesnt regurgitate them. Although I know FFing has got to be very terrifying for her. I would be scared too if someone shoved a steak in my mouth.

[Kneff1175]

One more thing about my BST. What about a water dish that she can get into. I have a large tuperware thing in there now, but I do not think she can get in a soak. I tried a larger one but there was no room. This is the largest tub I had thats not green or black. Can it be a colored tub, or somewhat see through. And the bungee on top in the pic is so she can't open it. Which I doubt is a very good deterrent.

[marvelfreak]

ok yall so I hav her in a tub. Ill put up pics and will yall say if she needs anything else. For the record. I hardly handle her. Just to move her to clean. Ive actually been doing that part well. Everywhere was closed lastnight so I still have her on cypress. The humidity does stay up better. But what about heat. My snake room stays at 81. Her temp this morning was 79.6. What do I do for extra heat? Does she even need it or is 79 good. It will probably raise to 81-83. I cant use a pad with this species. Any more advice?
Actually that what i use for all of my tubs and totes. UTH (under tank heaters) work just great. Just be sure to use a thermostat to control the temperature.

[Kneff1175]

OK. But if my temps stay around 80 should I mess with them. Thats with a probe on the cypress right next to her hide. Or just use the pad for emergencies? Lots of people have said they prefer cooler temps but higher humidity. She has a tall hide too. She seems too like it so Im inclined to just really leave it all be for now till she eats a few, or would it be best to get her a more snug hide? She really is way different than a ball or red tailed. I was really unprepared for this on. She was sort of an impulse buy. Once I put my hands on her at the show it was over. But I finally think Ive got things right. Now hopefully she takes care of the rest. On a side note the people I got her from said their male had worked his way in between the top and the tup and it crushed his top ribs of something. Maybe she was overstating because she said he was still alive, anyway I would really like to avoid that, so will she ever acclimate to a tank or will it be a tub her whole life. Either is fine, but having her just for personal reasons I would like to see her. How often is good to handle her, after she starts eating a few times. My red tail and balls seem to do fine with daily handling times of about 30 min. Do they like to be handled less? Do they stress easier. Every article Ive read seems to only say to leave them be for the first few weeks then normal handling. I noticed too that in the tank she was constantly burrowed, but last night and today in the tub shes just kinda hanging out. At least from what I see through the tub. ( Havent taken the top off). Is that good? Maybe shes more secure. This whole thing has taught me to not every snake is keep hot, feed, clean and presto snake keeping. This BST and Rosy Boa have showed me that number one above all is security. Theirs.

[Kneff1175]

Actually that what i use for all of my tubs and totes. UTH (under tank heaters) work just great. Just be sure to use a thermostat to control the temperature.
I was told that this species is way too heavy bodied for UTHs.

[Kneff1175]

Do you know what time of day they use to feed? I had one Borneo that would only eat live and never before it was dark outside. Pickiest damn eater i ever had.
Now to your set up Bloods and short tails do best in totes or tubs. But working with what you have it in. You need to cover at least 2/3 of the top of your cage to help hold your humidity in. Your low side should be closer to 73. Unlike Reds Bloods i found Short tail prefer it a little cooler. Also you need to ditch the light. The light coming into the room is plenty. Having a light on will stress them out. They prefer it darker makes them feel safer. Bloods and Short tails stress easy so more than likely it's just stress. How do you check temps? If you don't have one you really need to get a temp gun.
I have a zoo med item# RT-1. Its the kind where you take the top off point and it gives a reading after pushing the button. It lines up with the temps on the digital probed and analog therms I use in each tank. Its 81 throughout the tub.

[Aaron_S]

OK. But if my temps stay around 80 should I mess with them. Thats with a probe on the cypress right next to her hide. Or just use the pad for emergencies? Lots of people have said they prefer cooler temps but higher humidity. She has a tall hide too. She seems too like it so Im inclined to just really leave it all be for now till she eats a few, or would it be best to get her a more snug hide? She really is way different than a ball or red tailed. I was really unprepared for this on. She was sort of an impulse buy. Once I put my hands on her at the show it was over. But I finally think Ive got things right. Now hopefully she takes care of the rest. On a side note the people I got her from said their male had worked his way in between the top and the tup and it crushed his top ribs of something. Maybe she was overstating because she said he was still alive, anyway I would really like to avoid that, so will she ever acclimate to a tank or will it be a tub her whole life. Either is fine, but having her just for personal reasons I would like to see her. How often is good to handle her, after she starts eating a few times. My red tail and balls seem to do fine with daily handling times of about 30 min. Do they like to be handled less? Do they stress easier. Every article Ive read seems to only say to leave them be for the first few weeks then normal handling. I noticed too that in the tank she was constantly burrowed, but last night and today in the tub shes just kinda hanging out. At least from what I see through the tub. ( Havent taken the top off). Is that good? Maybe shes more secure. This whole thing has taught me to not every snake is keep hot, feed, clean and presto snake keeping. This BST and Rosy Boa have showed me that number one above all is security. Theirs.

I'm glad you learned your lesson. Don't buy animals you may be unprepared for. Handling this species is animal specific. Some do quite well, some are horrible and some are in between.

As for the person you got this from. I don't see how a tub lid would crush the snakes ribs. It makes very little sense.

As seen by your experience, your temps are too low. I wouldn't listen to the other people. How many have they kept who are telling you to keep low temps? Mine always did fantastic in the higher 80's. Eating machines.



I was told that this species is way too heavy bodied for UTHs.

Simply put, you were told wrong. I would recommend finding new sources of info.

I have a zoo med item# RT-1. Its the kind where you take the top off point and it gives a reading after pushing the button. It lines up with the temps on the digital probed and analog therms I use in each tank. Its 81 throughout the tub.

I don't know what that item is but see above comments about your temps.

[Kneff1175]

I'm glad you learned your lesson. Don't buy animals you may be unprepared for. Handling this species is animal specific. Some do quite well, some are horrible and some are in between.

As for the person you got this from. I don't see how a tub lid would crush the snakes ribs. It makes very little sense.

As seen by your experience, your temps are too low. I wouldn't listen to the other people. How many have they kept who are telling you to keep low temps? Mine always did fantastic in the higher 80's. Eating machines.





Simply put, you were told wrong. I would recommend finding new sources of info.



I don't know what that item is but see above comments about your temps.
Several sies say the will be way too heavy for UTHs as far as temps thats what I was told by a breeder in the same state as I am. Ill post his site and maybe you two can get the temp thing down. I think I may try to keep uping the temp a degree until I find out what makes her comfortable. His business is El Grande Bloods, and its at Https://www.facebook.com/El-Grande-Bloods_376506975801146/timeline/?ref=hl

[Tsubaki]

I have kept Bloods (Breitensteini / brongersmai) with UTH's in tubs, they did absolutely fine :) I gave them a cool spot to burrow, and a warm spot to burrow.. And that (besides feeding time) was the last i ever saw of them.. i think they were part mole...

[Aaron_S]

Several sies say the will be way too heavy for UTHs as far as temps thats what I was told by a breeder in the same state as I am. Ill post his site and maybe you two can get the temp thing down. I think I may try to keep uping the temp a degree until I find out what makes her comfortable. His business is El Grande Bloods, and its at Https://www.facebook.com/El-Grande-Bloods_376506975801146/timeline/?ref=hl

As suggested, you were told wrong. Many people keep them with UTH's.

As for temps I'll stick to what I know and my experience.

Your link also didn't work.

[Kneff1175]

I have kept Bloods (Breitensteini / brongersmai) with UTH's in tubs, they did absolutely fine :) I gave them a cool spot to burrow, and a warm spot to burrow.. And that (besides feeding time) was the last i ever saw of them.. i think they were part mole...
Yeah she burrows like crazy. I put a pad under the tub this morning. So hopefully this will solve the riddle of the non feeding BST.

[Kneff1175]

[QUOTE=Aaron_S;976096]As suggested, you were told wrong. Many people keep them with UTH's.

As for temps I'll stick to what I know and my experience.

Your link also didn't work.[/QUOTE
Using your moderator position to avoid being blocked is somewhat harassing. This is the fifth time I have asked you not to reply to me. I do not like your tone,advice, or the pushiness in your response. I've tried to ignore you but you insist on inserting yourself in my threads over and over. Cmon dude just skip it. It was funny before but now it's just plain stalking. Please no more replies or private messages. I really would like you to just skip my threads. Thank you.

[Kneff1175]

Several sies say the will be way too heavy for UTHs as far as temps thats what I was told by a breeder in the same state as I am. Ill post his site and maybe you two can get the temp thing down. I think I may try to keep uping the temp a degree until I find out what makes her comfortable. His business is El Grande Bloods, and its at Https://www.facebook.com/El-Grande-Bloods_376506975801146/timeline/?ref=hl
El Grande bloods. I'm sure there aren't very many from Indiana on FB. Not hard.

[SnoopySnake]

Aaron isn't rude, just blunt. And he gives some pretty good advice. Ignoring it just because you don't like his "tone" could be a big mistake on your part. Why don't you like his advice? Because it goes against what you think you know?

[reptiledude987]

Aaron isn't rude, just blunt. And he gives some pretty good advice. Ignoring it just because you don't like his "tone" could be a big mistake on your part. Why don't you like his advice? Because it goes against what you think you know?

Agreed. Aaron knows his stuff. but he wont sugar coat things he calls it the way he sees it. For those of us who have been on this forum for a while we expect this from him. He is blunt but rarely wrong. Plus when he is wrong about somthing he is humble enough to admit his mistake. In my time here I think Ive seen that maybe twice. However regarding your query here I personally agree 100% with what he has said.

[ManSlaughter33]

MAke sure you get a thermostat for the UTH, or it will burn your snakes belly.

PS
Aaron is very experienced and knowledgable.
Your basically in kiddy karate telling a master to eff off because of his tone, and blunt advice.. you might not like the tone, but all his advice is true and correct. Read it, learn it, you dont have to respond to his comments.

[Kneff1175]

her temps are at 86.7 on her digital probe therm. That's on hot during day. Cool side is 83. With a +/- .3 degrees. At night her temps drop to 81. And that is with a 1 degree drop too the cool side of 79. When should I attempt a feeding? Five to seven days? Or a couple of weeks. She's been in the tub since 10/5. However her temps were slowly raised to a top of 86.7. She's been on that temp since yesterday. Should I cover her tub also. I have other snakes in the room so I cannot just isolate her completely.

[Aaron_S]

[QUOTE=Aaron_S;976096]As suggested, you were told wrong. Many people keep them with UTH's.

As for temps I'll stick to what I know and my experience.

Your link also didn't work.[/QUOTE
Using your moderator position to avoid being blocked is somewhat harassing. This is the fifth time I have asked you not to reply to me. I do not like your tone,advice, or the pushiness in your response. I've tried to ignore you but you insist on inserting yourself in my threads over and over. Cmon dude just skip it. It was funny before but now it's just plain stalking. Please no more replies or private messages. I really would like you to just skip my threads. Thank you.

Unfortunately my job is to monitor all the threads. As a member as well as moderator I leave advice in threads I know I can add additional knowledge to.

However, I don't personally care if you or anyone in particular takes the said advice. My goals it to leave the advice out there for anyone reading the thread (many do but don't post) so they can then take the advice given in the thread and figure out what best suits them and their needs.

If you take any of this as personal then that's on you and how you handle things.

As I already sent a private message to you, yes you'll continue to recieve them because as long as you keep breaking the forum rules.

El Grande bloods. I'm sure there aren't very many from Indiana on FB. Not hard.

Already did. Just was letting you know the link wasn't working. Trying to be helpful is all. :)

[Aaron_S]

her temps are at 86.7 on her digital probe therm. That's on hot during day. Cool side is 83. With a +/- .3 degrees. At night her temps drop to 81. And that is with a 1 degree drop too the cool side of 79. When should I attempt a feeding? Five to seven days? Or a couple of weeks. She's been in the tub since 10/5. However her temps were slowly raised to a top of 86.7. She's been on that temp since yesterday. Should I cover her tub also. I have other snakes in the room so I cannot just isolate her completely.

1. You should practice quarantine in a separate room. This animal is new, correct? It means if something that we can't visbly see is the reason for the non-feeding then your other animals are subject to it as well. We all wish that not to be the case it's more likely the extreme case here.

2. I always recommend attempting to feed on a 5 or 7 day schedule CONSISTENTLY. Pick one that you prefer and offer the same prey, the same way, at the same intervals. I found this to work best.

3. Does the temps drop at night because of just general drops or are you dropping them with the thermostat? I would recommend to not drop temps yourself. If it's just because the room drops a few degrees then leave it but I'd advise against doing it on your own. There is no need for the drop unless you were planning to breed.

[Kneff1175]

ok yall so I hav her in a tub. Ill put up pics and will yall say if she needs anything else. For the record. I hardly handle her. Just to move her to clean. Ive actually been doing that part well. Everywhere was closed lastnight so I still have her on cypress. The humidity does stay up better. But what about heat. My snake room stays at 81. Her temp this morning was 79.6. What do I do for extra heat? Does she even need it or is 79 good. It will probably raise to 81-83. I cant use a pad with this species. Any more advice?
Thanks y'all. She feed tonight. The tub and lower temps seems to have done the tricks. She's definitely a live feeder.