never had issues until the past month....

[kuester]

Ive had my corn for 11 years this year. Hes always been a good eater and shedder. But he hasnt eaten since 3/16 ive been offering a f/t rat every 2 weeks also the last 2 times hes shed i noticed its in pieces as opposed to his normally flawless sheds in one piece so i the next time he went into shed i lightly misted his cage but then i noticed the beginnings of what ended up being scale rot so i ditched all the bedding and put in paper towels, of course he pooped on the fresh paper towels immediately so i had to change it right away, he went into shed again and shed off the colored scales that i noticed scale rot starting on. His scales are of a normal color now some are just a bit off looking due the scale rot areas but he still has not eaten and when can i go back to aspen bedding from paper towels?

[Albert Clark]

Keep him on the towels for now. Even though he looks better, snakes are slow healers and he probably just doesn't have a appetite. Push back on the frequency of the offerings and give him more time to heal. Make sure he has fresh water and the ability to soak.

[lady_bug87]

You don't get scale rot from "just misting" i have dumped full water bowls in enclosures and left it for days and have never come close to rot. You need seriously gross conditions to get rot.

Snakes will heal in whatever time they take to heal. Just keep an eye on your husbandry. Unless there's weight loss or dehydration, just wait it out.

[Albert Clark]

You don't get scale rot from "just misting" i have dumped full water bowls in enclosures and left it for days and have never come close to rot. You need seriously gross conditions to get rot.

Snakes will heal in whatever time they take to heal. Just keep an eye on your husbandry. Unless there's weight loss or dehydration, just wait it out.

If you dump full water bowls and leave it for days that is setting up a breeding ground for bacteria. Especially if there is urine , urates and feces already on the substrate. That will definitely predispose the animal to scale rot. Snakes have slow metabolic rates and take longer to heal overall. They don't heal when they feel like it. They heal when conditions are corrected that predispose them to diseases and when the appropriate measures are taken with regards to their condition and prognosis. :suspicious:

[lady_bug87]

...
When I dump water its on clean newspaper. Not some filthy wood shaving nonsense.

Ya. I know how it works with healing. Thanks though.

It stands as this: you don't get rot from misting. If you did than everyone would get it. Snakes heal when they heal meaning when their bodies are ready conditions are optimal.

So my advice stands. take care of the husbandry and the rest will follow.

[kuester]

His cage was never it a gross condition ever! i check and spot clean daily and the bedding was brand new when i noticed it and before that the bedding was only 2 months old and i only misted his cage a couple times because he shed in pieces

[kuester]

And he has lost weight... not a lot but its visually noticeable

[lady_bug87]

If he's starting to lose weight it may be time to consider either braining his food or offering something small and alive.

[kuester]

The past 13 years so his whole life hes been eating frozen thawed. The past 11 years with me he hasn't ever went off feed.

[lady_bug87]

You could also be facing the possibility that he's nearing the end of his life. 13 is a great age.

[kuester]

He'd go off feed for that? I hope this isn't the case

[prairiepanda]

You don't get scale rot from "just misting" i have dumped full water bowls in enclosures and left it for days and have never come close to rot.


I'm curious why you would do that? Is it something you do regularly?


His cage was never it a gross condition ever! i check and spot clean daily and the bedding was brand new when i noticed it and before that the bedding was only 2 months old and i only misted his cage a couple times because he shed in pieces

It's possible that you got a contaminated batch of bedding, or that the snake's immune system is starting to slow down with age, or both. If you start to see the rot coming back when you do get him back on shavings, then I would toss the whole batch and get new stuff.


And he has lost weight... not a lot but its visually noticeable ....... The past 13 years so his whole life hes been eating frozen thawed. The past 11 years with me he hasn't ever went off feed.

Try braining one of his usual frozen mice. Just take a sharp knife or a nail and poke a hole in its head, then squeeze out a bit of the fluid and spread it over the head. For some reason brain fluids are very enticing to snakes. Try that about a week from now, though. If that doesn't work, try the same thing again with a smaller sized mouse. Also, if the weight loss is visibly noticeable then it probably is a lot. Have you weighed him(if so, what was his weight before vs now?), or are you just judging by feel and appearance?

[kuester]

Okay when i put him back on shavings ill pay close attention and if it happens i will toss it.

He usually eats 2 small rats a month but hasn't eaten since 3/16... im judging by feel and appearance.

[Albert Clark]

Well, he is a mature corn snake who is otherwise healthy and has been on a food strike for only a couple of feedings. I really wouldn't panic or think the worst! It's not like he has been off feed for months. I would think he will eat when he is ready. Have you done anything to change his enclosure, temps or hiding places? I would triple check my husbandry. Secondly I would double check him for illnesses. Lastly, if all those points are affirmative I would think about brumating him if he continues on the food strike. Do you have the ability to hibernate him for about two months? And can you find a nice female for him when the hibernation period is over bc he is going to want to breed at that time. Make sure he isn't suffering with a internal parasite load before you put him into a hibernation mode. Good luck!

[lady_bug87]

Well, he is a mature corn snake who is otherwise healthy and has been on a food strike for only a couple of feedings. I really wouldn't panic or think the worst! It's not like he has been off feed for months. I would think he will eat when he is ready. Have you done anything to change his enclosure, temps or hiding places? I would triple check my husbandry. Secondly I would double check him for illnesses. Lastly, if all those points are affirmative I would think about brumating him if he continues on the food strike. Do you have the ability to hibernate him for about two months? And can you find a nice female for him when the hibernation period is over bc he is going to want to breed at that time. Make sure he isn't suffering with a internal parasite load before you put him into a hibernation mode. Good luck!

How does a long term captive (11 years at least) suddenly have a parasite load?

Parasites largely come from food sources. As long as the food source doesn't have parasites the snake wont either. At least that's my understanding.

[Albert Clark]

Any snake can become opportunistically infected by parasites. Certainly a 11year old snake who is off food should have a fecal to rule out parasitic loads. Frozen mice and rats can also be suspect if they came from unreliable or reliable sources. Remember the shelf life of frozen is 90 days 120days max before the freezer burn sets in. Freezing doesn't absolutely rid the snake of any potential of infection. As long as the food doesn't have parasites the snake won't is not true. Parasites are opportunistic invaders of the gastrointestinal tract of reptiles. If his immune system is compromised he can acquire a myriad of possible illnesses. It's not a one size fits all approach with reptile illness and disease. A non feeding snake should have a fecal and parasitic loads ruled out . Don't you think he deserves that? That is the first suspicion in a non feeding snake too. Actually I think he should be hibernated once all possible illness has been ruled out. He probably just wants to breed. He is seemingly on a food strike for a reason and could use a female after a short brumating cycle. That would possibly reset his feeding clock as well.

[kuester]

Ive never hibernated him... and not looking to breed him although he is a sweetheart and would probably nake beautiful babies. He hasnt eaten since 3/16 today is 5/11 so its been about 2 months. only thing i switched was from a uth to a ceramic heat emitter which makes it like 2degrees warmer in his hot spot and i purchase all my frozen feeder rats from layne labs and have never had an issue with parasites.

[Albert Clark]

Did you get a thermostat? I understand how you feel. Then just ride out the feeding strike and limit the numbers of attempts at feeding. I would think increasing the time between offerings is better.

[Sasha2]

Just a thought but Try switching to adult mice, maybe he is slowing down and just doesnt need that large a meal or he is bored with them. Small rats seem a bit much for a cornsnake unless he is really big.

[kuester]

He normally eats 2 small rats at a feeding. They're not too big, been feeding him small rats for 2 years. I really don't see how pretty size would make a difference, i have bulk frozen Pinkies, small rats and jumbo rats so i dont really want to switch size as these will get wasted then unless i get another snake of his size. I have a thermometer sitting in his cage bottom right in the hot spot then 2 others on the back piece of glass, half way up the cage on each end.

[kuester]

Imgur (http://imgur.com/vySwO6W)
Imgur (http://imgur.com/e3q5WHV)
Imgur (http://imgur.com/xL9xFgt)
Imgur (http://imgur.com/HOizCRY)
Imgur (http://imgur.com/YykFbJ0)

This is my lovely boy. I wish i knew what was wrong. Going to try to feed him next week.

[prairiepanda]

Trying a smaller size of prey might actually help. It's possible that he's just not up to the challenge of the larger prey anymore. You could try buying just one adult mouse or smaller rat and see how it goes, and if he takes it you can just sell your bigger rats on your local classifieds.

You can also try braiding his next meal or scenting it with either a mouse or canned fish. A vet visit would be good too.

[kuester]

He's always been a good eater without scenting and hes always eagerly taken small rats. He's 6'1" his big corn and just 2 months ago he took 2 small rats like usual. I know he is getting older but i hope he isn't going to die soon :( he's only 13. I will try a ve

[kuester]

Try a vet visit if he doesn't eat for me next week. The site just tweaked out.

[Albert Clark]

Well, we are all giving you suggestions of things to try and it seems you are unwilling for one reason or another to continue doing what you're doing even though its not working. In that case ,we all hope he doesn't die, but good luck at the vets office. Please keep everyone updated with the diagnosis. Best of luck!

[kuester]

He is 13 and ive never brumated him before so im confused how that would help when ive never done it before. And i will do a vet visit if he doesnt eat im going to try on monday night with the braining method.