View Full Version : Good beginner lizard?
Hello, I am looking into getting a lizard (since my mother is deathly afraid of snakes. I was hoping for a MBK) and I've been wondering what the best beginner lizard would be. Ive seen the veiled chameleon but I'm concerned with upkeep expenses. If you have any suggestions, please tell me about the animal and it enclosure/feeding requierments. There is a slim chance I will be able to get one at a repticon coming up soon. every thing is appreciated (I would prefer so etching with the least mess possible) Thanks again everyone^.=.^ plus I would love any pics. Any links to good care sheets would be helpful too (I would have to sell it to my parents very well)
prairiepanda
04-26-15, 06:11 PM
In my opinion, crested or gargoyle geckos are the ultimate beginner lizards. There are a few advantages(or at least I see them as advantages) over other lizards:
no heating needed as they prefer lower temperatures
no UV lighting needed as they are nocturnal
very little space required compared to some other species(such as bearded dragons)
food is convenient because it's just powder that you mix with water(you can supplement with insects if you wish though)
only need to be fed every other day
generally easy to handle
come in a variety of morphs(especially cresteds)
They do need moderately high humidity, but simply misting once a day is sufficient.
I have two gargoyle geckos. Here is Calcifer, my subadult female fired down:
http://i.imgur.com/DSyOXZE.jpg
Calcifer half-fired:
http://i.imgur.com/oOCtsqJ.jpg
And Calcifer mostly fired up:
http://i.imgur.com/MIt8DeI.jpg
She can actually turn almost completely black, but the red always stays vivid red.
And here is Howl, my hopefully male baby fired down:
http://i.imgur.com/rgk0oO4.jpg
Howl half-fired:
http://i.imgur.com/TBdWEus.jpg
Howl fired up:
http://i.imgur.com/pzGovqR.jpg
Calcifer is a red stripe, and Howl is from a high red line. Calcifer looked pretty much the same her whole life, but Howl will change as he grows. His parents both fire up bright red all over and fire down a pale orangey-pink. Howl is slowly gaining his reds.
It might be worthwhile to look up crested geckos as well. Their care is identical to gargs, but they look quite different.
If you're not into geckos then long-tailed lizards, anoles, or bearded dragons are all great beginner lizards as well. They all require heating and insect feeders. Beardies require more space and also some vegetables, but are generally better to handle than the other two which tend to get stressed easily.
Thanks! I didn't know much about geckos but they are very nice now that I do. This might be a possibility. If I add up enough numbers, I may be ab,email to get it. Thank you again^.=.^
prairiepanda
04-26-15, 06:27 PM
I think you can usually get cresteds cheaper than gargoyles, but it depends on the breeder and the morph you're looking at. I forgot to mention that the second and third pictures of Calcifer are a bit old and she is bigger now and still has a bit more growth to do. Gargs can get up to 8 inches long from snout to tail, so they're a decent size to handle but still small enough that they don't need huge enclosures. Other lizards will have higher care costs because of their extra needs, but the cost shouldn't be too bad anyway. Do you have a long-term budget figured out?
edit, talked to parents and i probably wnot be getting any at repticon just gonna be looking. Plus, by the time I do get one, I'll be in a job to help pay for annual expenses (if not all)
I know initial cost will be a good bit but I love that you don't really need insects. I haven't gotten a long term budgetc but (since I'm still living with my parents and will be for a while) as long as it's not much of an annual cost, it shouldn't be a problem. I have a good bit of money waiting for me and I'm figuring not much more than the cost of feeding a small dog or a cat a month. I was wondering, how long do they usually live? Shouldn't about 40 gal equivalent sized enclosure be enough for an adult (what size do you prefer?) I won't be getting one for a long time I don't think. We have too many Ani as and I don't plan on getting anymore for a bit.
prairiepanda
04-26-15, 08:29 PM
You're looking at waaay less cost than a cat or dog! My cat is by far the most expensive pet I own, and I don't spoil her too much. For the geckos a $17 bag of food powder lasted me around 8 months when I just had one gecko. Mine eat Pangea, but Repashy is similarly priced and individuals have different taste preferences. Both brands produce multiple flavors. Mine like watermelon or papaya best. I use newspaper as substrate, so that doesn't cost me anything...really the only ongoing cost I have is the food. Monthly costs are a bigger concern for other lizards. Start-up cost can vary depending on how you go about it though.
40 gal is actually pretty huge, although excess space would not cause any stress so if you want a nice big display tank then that would be perfectly fine. You could house two or three female cresteds together in an enclosure that size. Female cresteds usually do well communally, but male cresteds or gargoyles of either gender tend to be rather aggressive towards others. For one gecko, something the size of a 12"x12"x18" exo terra is a great size. You can get real nice acrylic ones that size for around $50, or save money by modifying a plastic bin to use. Height is important because they are arboreal, and you should provide plenty of plastic plants to hide in and things to climb. You shouldn't need to get an actual hide if there's enough plants in there. Fake plants from craft stores can be cheaper than pet store ones, but you need to make sure the dyes don't rub off when wet. You can get bendable branches from pet shops which are pretty cool, but sticks from outside are free you just need to sterilize them. A lot of people even just use those cardboard egg crates and toilet paper tubes, which provide hiding and climbing surfaces and are either free or really cheap(they dry pretty quickly so it's okay to be misting them every day). Those need to be changed often though because you can't clean the poop off. All in all, you're looking at $50 to $200 for setup costs depending on how fancy you make it. The gecko itself will probably be at least $40 for a crested or $60 for a garg. The price can be much higher if you're after a fancy morph, though. Usually unsexed babies are cheapest.
By the way, these guys are nocturnal and will only be active at night, but you can handle them during the day no problem.
Minkness
04-26-15, 08:40 PM
Honestly, depending on what ypi want to do as far as care, the total anual cost could be very low. A pound of pangea gecko food could easily last you a year if the unused portion is kept refrigerated (or frozen). That's about $40 including shipping. Sert ups can be as small as 10 gallons, but I personally wouldn't do more than 20 for a single gecko. They don't need more and can actually go off of food if in too big of a space (or just not eat regularly). I don't feed mine crickets, but 3 crickets once a week of an appropriate size should be more than fine. I have found that adults grow out of eating bugs at about a year to a year and a half. That doesn't mean that they won't, this is just my experience. Once established, a planted viv is one of the best ways to go! A $5 brick of eco earth, 1-3 small, live plants, and bam! Perfect humidity! I use the disposable deli cups for food and zoomed water dishes. Over all total anual care could easily be under $100. Innital start up can be pretty easy as well. If you get a baby, a $15 kritter keeper, paper towls, food ($40), bugs (less than $3 a month depending), a spray bottle, and some fake plants (i grabbed most of mine from dollar tree and if I don't feel pike soaking them clean, I just throw them away).
The cost of the gecko is where it will be pricey. Cresties bottom out at about $40 and gargs are about $60. You may find some cheaper on Craigslist at your own risk. I did see some $20 cresties at my last repticon however. So you may get lucky when you're ready.
(Posted at the same time as panda. Woopz! Lol)
You're looking at waaay less cost than a cat or dog! My cat is by far the most expensive pet I own, and I don't spoil her too much. For the geckos a $17 bag of food powder lasted me around 8 months when I just had one gecko. Mine eat Pangea, but Repashy is similarly priced and individuals have different taste preferences. Both brands produce multiple flavors. Mine like watermelon or papaya best. I use newspaper as substrate, so that doesn't cost me anything...really the only ongoing cost I have is the food. Monthly costs are a bigger concern for other lizards. Start-up cost can vary depending on how you go about it though.
40 gal is actually pretty huge, although excess space would not cause any stress so if you want a nice big display tank then that would be perfectly fine. You could house two or three female cresteds together in an enclosure that size. Female cresteds usually do well communally, but male cresteds or gargoyles of either gender tend to be rather aggressive towards others. For one gecko, something the size of a 12"x12"x18" exo terra is a great size. You can get real nice acrylic ones that size for around $50, or save money by modifying a plastic bin to use. Height is important because they are arboreal, and you should provide plenty of plastic plants to hide in and things to climb. You shouldn't need to get an actual hide if there's enough plants in there. Fake plants from craft stores can be cheaper than pet store ones, but you need to make sure the dyes don't rub off when wet. You can get bendable branches from pet shops which are pretty cool, but sticks from outside are free you just need to sterilize them. A lot of people even just use those cardboard egg crates and toilet paper tubes, which provide hiding and climbing surfaces and are either free or really cheap(they dry pretty quickly so it's okay to be misting them every day). Those need to be changed often though because you can't clean the poop off. All in all, you're looking at $50 to $200 for setup costs depending on how fancy you make it. The gecko itself will probably be at least $40 for a crested or $60 for a garg. The price can be much higher if you're after a fancy morph, though. Usually unsexed babies are cheapest.
By the way, these guys are nocturnal and will only be active at night, but you can handle them during the day no problem.
Thank you a lot! This is some great info!WOW With theses numbers, I could pay for this stuff myself and just have to worry about keeping it away from the other animals. Such a small enclosure is great, we have goldfish that take up a 50 gal aquarium.
also, do they escape easily? (Hince the animals listed in my signature. The dogs and cats are all indoor. Yah, big house) the gargs remind me of gators lol very pretty. Maybe I can buy an enclosure prior to repticon and bring one home^.=.^ are the coloration any different with gender? (Yours are beautiful) temperment?
Honestly, depending on what ypi want to do as far as care, the total anual cost could be very low. A pound of pangea gecko food could easily last you a year if the unused portion is kept refrigerated (or frozen). That's about $40 including shipping. Sert ups can be as small as 10 gallons, but I personally wouldn't do more than 20 for a single gecko. They don't need more and can actually go off of food if in too big of a space (or just not eat regularly). I don't feed mine crickets, but 3 crickets once a week of an appropriate size should be more than fine. I have found that adults grow out of eating bugs at about a year to a year and a half. That doesn't mean that they won't, this is just my experience. Once established, a planted viv is one of the best ways to go! A $5 brick of eco earth, 1-3 small, live plants, and bam! Perfect humidity! I use the disposable deli cups for food and zoomed water dishes. Over all total anual care could easily be under $100. Innital start up can be pretty easy as well. If you get a baby, a $15 kritter keeper, paper towls, food ($40), bugs (less than $3 a month depending), a spray bottle, and some fake plants (i grabbed most of mine from dollar tree and if I don't feel pike soaking them clean, I just throw them away).
The cost of the gecko is where it will be pricey. Cresties bottom out at about $40 and gargs are about $60. You may find some cheaper on Craigslist at your own risk. I did see some $20 cresties at my last repticon however. So you may get lucky when you're ready.
(Posted at the same time as panda. Woopz! Lol)
Thanks for those numbers^.=.^ I prefer no bugs which is why I'm interested in these:)
Minkness
04-27-15, 06:23 AM
Males and females have no real difference in colors or markings. Usually the best way to tell is that when they are sub-adults the males have buldges under their tails. Bugs are needed for young ones though for either gargs or cresties. But again, not a ton and only for about a year or so. I'm not sure, but I believe it is because they are a huge protein source to aid in proper growth. It's also a great way to make sure the gecko is getting calcium when young.
Enclosures are cheapest actually at repricon. The same enclosure I got was 7l $75 at my local store and $50 at repticon. Though they did have one at repticon that is a full set up with all kinds of stuff included such as water dush, calcium supliment, water enhancer (which I don't use), climbung stick, fake plants, and some other stuff, and it was only $75 at the con but $120 at the local store. Also, if you get a baby, you really don't need a full sized enclosure. A medium or large kritter keeper is fine for a good while as they are slow growers compared to other reptiles. I have a 7 month old female crestie still in a medium sized kritter keeper that only cost me $5. Also, getting the VIP tickets and being one of the 1st to get in will help out too. I got free calcium (which I don't use since I have my own) and a bunch if other free promotional stuff as well that also included general care sheets and info packets about different kinds of reptiles. Totally worth it, especially for a beginner.
As for them getting loose...it happens. I had one in a front opening enclosure that has a lock on it but I used to be lazy and not lock it, figuring my crestie couldn't open the door....he learned that if he jumped at the door hard enough, it would open, and he'd get out. Same guy also figured that if he jumped suicide style from my hands and hit the floor running, that he could get under or behind something I couldn't move. One got out and I somehow still don't know how and I found it two days later just chilling in an extra kritter keeper I used to keep old fake plants in. It happens, but be watchful, mindful, and careful, and you should be good. For the record, I have 2 cats and a dog and with as many times as my little Hudini has gotten out (i seem to have only 1 offender out of the many, many I have kept over the years lol) there has been no fatalities.
Hope this helps.
Males and females have no real difference in colors or markings. Usually the best way to tell is that when they are sub-adults the males have buldges under their tails. Bugs are needed for young ones though for either gargs or cresties. But again, not a ton and only for about a year or so. I'm not sure, but I believe it is because they are a huge protein source to aid in proper growth. It's also a great way to make sure the gecko is getting calcium when young.
Enclosures are cheapest actually at repricon. The same enclosure I got was 7l $75 at my local store and $50 at repticon. Though they did have one at repticon that is a full set up with all kinds of stuff included such as water dush, calcium supliment, water enhancer (which I don't use), climbung stick, fake plants, and some other stuff, and it was only $75 at the con but $120 at the local store. Also, if you get a baby, you really don't need a full sized enclosure. A medium or large kritter keeper is fine for a good while as they are slow growers compared to other reptiles. I have a 7 month old female crestie still in a medium sized kritter keeper that only cost me $5. Also, getting the VIP tickets and being one of the 1st to get in will help out too. I got free calcium (which I don't use since I have my own) and a bunch if other free promotional stuff as well that also included general care sheets and info packets about different kinds of reptiles. Totally worth it, especially for a beginner.
As for them getting loose...it happens. I had one in a front opening enclosure that has a lock on it but I used to be lazy and not lock it, figuring my crestie couldn't open the door....he learned that if he jumped at the door hard enough, it would open, and he'd get out. Same guy also figured that if he jumped suicide style from my hands and hit the floor running, that he could get under or behind something I couldn't move. One got out and I somehow still don't know how and I found it two days later just chilling in an extra kritter keeper I used to keep old fake plants in. It happens, but be watchful, mindful, and careful, and you should be good. For the record, I have 2 cats and a dog and with as many times as my little Hudini has gotten out (i seem to have only 1 offender out of the many, many I have kept over the years lol) there has been no fatalities.
Hope this helps.
Isn't it better to have an enclosure ready? (I live a bit ways off away from where replica and I will not be able to set up until I get back home) if I buy one there, I'd have to have it out of an enclosure for a good bit before I even get home
Those prices do sound good though.
Ballchris
04-27-15, 10:50 AM
it is a good idea to always have your enclosure set up already, that way things can be acclimated temps can settle in and so on. another reason it a good idea is when the animal comes home it going to be stressed and you will have to leave it alone for a week or two i have heard other people leave them alone longer.
it is a good idea to always have your enclosure set up already, that way things can be acclimated temps can settle in and so on. another reason it a good idea is when the animal comes home it going to be stressed and you will have to leave it alone for a week or two i have heard other people leave them alone longer.
I thought so but I have to choose between a good priced enclosure or a good priced animal. :/ unless I wait an entire year (or take the risk of ordering from a site and getting it delivered) to get good prices(If I did it that way, I probably won't be able too anyway v-v)
RAD House
04-27-15, 12:25 PM
If you are not able to set up the tank before hand then maybe you could at least make a plan of everything that you need and how you will set it up. With the right plan you should be able to set the critter up fairly quickly when you get home. Just keep the lizard in the container you purchased him in. Sellers keep them in these type of containers all day at a expo so I don't think a few extra hours would hurt it. Just make sure you don't place him an area that is in the extremes of cold or hot. For example in direct sunlight, or next to an air conditioner.
Minkness
04-27-15, 12:38 PM
With many reptiles it is best to have a set up ready. With gargs and cresties however, they don't really need a special temp. Room temp is fine, so they can be in something not quite 'ideal' for a bit. So, if you see a nice crestie/garg baby for say... $80 and that's the one you HAVE to have. Cool, grab it. The kritter keeper cost will be between $5-15 depending on size, and the other stuff you need will also be there. So, if you need to wait somewhere for a week, or you have a 6 hour drive home, whatever it is, the animal will be just fine. That's what makes them an awesome beginner animal. Once you put them in something (even just a kritter keeper) leave them alone other than food/water/misting for about 2 weeks, or until you see them coming out to explore on their own. I have gotten some that are out and about and eating like a pig in 2-3 days but also have had some that took over a month to settle in.
So, if you get everything you need and set it up as soon as you can, the crestie/garg will be fine. This is not something I would suggest for other reptiles that require a heat source or very limited stress. Cresties, gargs, and even leos are VERY hardy. I see it all the time where people don't even have an uth for their leos, but use those awful overhead lights, and they live for years....not healthy or happy, but they live. A few days for one of these animals is not going to kill them or even be too much stress due to their low care needs. Even beardies require ALOT of work (to me anyway lol).
prairiepanda
04-27-15, 01:25 PM
As others have stated, for a garg or crestie there wouldn't be any problems getting the enclosure the same day as you get the gecko. With other reptiles, it's important to make sure temperatures and humidity are correct in the enclosure before moving the reptile in, but since cresties and gargs are kept at room temperature and aren't too picky about humidity this is not a concern.
If you get one of those acrylic enclosures, misting once a day will keep them happy and shedding well and prevent their food from drying out. In an exo terra or other enclosures with screen mesh tops, you'll probably need to cover part of the screen to keep humidity in. No need for any humidity gauge, though. Just watch and see if their food dries out or they have shedding issues, and cover up some of the ventilation if needed.
With many reptiles it is best to have a set up ready. With gargs and cresties however, they don't really need a special temp. Room temp is fine, so they can be in something not quite 'ideal' for a bit. So, if you see a nice crestie/garg baby for say... $80 and that's the one you HAVE to have. Cool, grab it. The kritter keeper cost will be between $5-15 depending on size, and the other stuff you need will also be there. So, if you need to wait somewhere for a week, or you have a 6 hour drive home, whatever it is, the animal will be just fine. That's what makes them an awesome beginner animal. Once you put them in something (even just a kritter keeper) leave them alone other than food/water/misting for about 2 weeks, or until you see them coming out to explore on their own. I have gotten some that are out and about and eating like a pig in 2-3 days but also have had some that took over a month to settle in.
So, if you get everything you need and set it up as soon as you can, the crestie/garg will be fine. This is not something I would suggest for other reptiles that require a heat source or very limited stress. Cresties, gargs, and even leos are VERY hardy. I see it all the time where people don't even have an uth for their leos, but use those awful overhead lights, and they live for years....not healthy or happy, but they live. A few days for one of these animals is not going to kill them or even be too much stress due to their low care needs. Even beardies require ALOT of work (to me anyway lol).
This is great! This helps a lot (in case I get my parents to agree on an animal (even if it's a last minute thing) *gears in my head planning it out* I can just have a list of everything I need ready *rubs handside together*:D thanks
As others have stated, for a garg or crestie there wouldn't be any problems getting the enclosure the same day as you get the gecko. With other reptiles, it's important to make sure temperatures and humidity are correct in the enclosure before moving the reptile in, but since cresties and gargs are kept at room temperature and aren't too picky about humidity this is not a concern.
If you get one of those acrylic enclosures, misting once a day will keep them happy and shedding well and prevent their food from drying out. In an exo terra or other enclosures with screen mesh tops, you'll probably need to cover part of the screen to keep humidity in. No need for any humidity gauge, though. Just watch and see if their food dries out or they have shedding issues, and cover up some of the ventilation if needed.
Thanks for the tips. Maybe if I'm quiet about it for a while they'll relax about it:)
jjhill001
04-28-15, 02:57 AM
Leopard Gecko hands down. Ten gallon, screen top, heating pad, substrate, hides. Just that simple. You can hold them as well. Starting cost for a leopard gecko and supplies would probably be around 75 bucks including the lizard.
If your parents are cool with it I would suggest a snake as a first pet to be honest. A corn snake is just as cheap but the feeding schedule is much more forgiving.
Leopard Gecko hands down. Ten gallon, screen top, heating pad, substrate, hides. Just that simple. You can hold them as well. Starting cost for a leopard gecko and supplies would probably be around 75 bucks including the lizard.
If your parents are cool with it I would suggest a snake as a first pet to be honest. A corn snake is just as cheap but the feeding schedule is much more forgiving.
I'll have to check these little guys out^.=.^
I've already tried for a snake, I was wanting a Mexican black kingsnake but my mom is scared to death of any snakes (no matter how small or harmless) I've done Stuy on corns already:/ thanks though.
prairiepanda
04-28-15, 11:18 AM
Leopard geckos are pretty cute and easy too, but they do require a bit more than cresties or gargs. They do need high temperatures, which means a heat source and thermostat, which adds quite a bit to start up costs, and their diet consists entirely of insects so upkeep costs are higher as well since you need to either buy insects frequently or breed your own. Great pets though and just as easy to care for as cresties or gargs if you don't mind dealing with bugs.
I guess leos and reptile stuff must be a lot cheaper down there than they are in Canada if you can set them up for $75? Here I'd be paying over $100(with the thermostat being the most expensive part) not including the lizard. Don't think I've seen a leo for less than $50 here, but I do know there are a lot more breeders in the states.
reptiledude987
04-28-15, 11:39 AM
Leopard geckos are pretty cute and easy too, but they do require a bit more than cresties or gargs. They do need high temperatures, which means a heat source and thermostat, which adds quite a bit to start up costs, and their diet consists entirely of insects so upkeep costs are higher as well since you need to either buy insects frequently or breed your own. Great pets though and just as easy to care for as cresties or gargs if you don't mind dealing with bugs.
I guess leos and reptile stuff must be a lot cheaper down there than they are in Canada if you can set them up for $75? Here I'd be paying over $100(with the thermostat being the most expensive part) not including the lizard. Don't think I've seen a leo for less than $50 here, but I do know there are a lot more breeders in the states.
Ive seen leos on sale for $25 before but 50 is average. Plus at an expo who knows what kind of deal may be out there. Good luck with your search!
Minkness
04-28-15, 02:04 PM
I saw baby leos for sale for $15 at the last repticon and many are for sale in my local CL for like $60 for them AND their full set up. Though, most on CL seem to be kept on sand -_-
Leopard geckos are pretty cute and easy too, but they do require a bit more than cresties or gargs. They do need high temperatures, which means a heat source and thermostat, which adds quite a bit to start up costs, and their diet consists entirely of insects so upkeep costs are higher as well since you need to either buy insects frequently or breed your own. Great pets though and just as easy to care for as cresties or gargs if you don't mind dealing with bugs.
I guess leos and reptile stuff must be a lot cheaper down there than they are in Canada if you can set them up for $75? Here I'd be paying over $100(with the thermostat being the most expensive part) not including the lizard. Don't think I've seen a leo for less than $50 here, but I do know there are a lot more breeders in the states.
The bugs are the biggest offset to the Leo. I hate to rule out a good animal based on diet but bugs can be quite expensive (especially in such a rural area I live in(I have to drive about an hour to even get to the closest reptile supplies at a pet shop) I want something that I won't have to make that Treck just for feeder insects and prices(and variety) aren't that great after that drive. And frankly, crickets are noisy and I already have enough wild ones chirping and hopping about. My cats also like to eat bugs so I'd have to make complete sure they can't get close to where they are kept or they will be everywhere:(
Yah, I think I'd stick to least insects as possible (the heating wouldn't bother me though)
thankyou though.
Ive seen leos on sale for $25 before but 50 is average. Plus at an expo who knows what kind of deal may be out there. Good luck with your search!
Thanks^.=.^ I can't wait for the expo, what would a reasonable price on a gargoyle or crested gecko be?
I saw baby leos for sale for $15 at the last repticon and many are for sale in my local CL for like $60 for them AND their full set up. Though, most on CL seem to be kept on sand -_-
Hmm, pretty low prices. This makes me look forward to repticon even more. Thanks:)
Minkness
04-28-15, 09:20 PM
If bugs are a problem, stick to gargs or cresties. They really will be the cheapest and easiest to care for.
If bugs are a problem, stick to gargs or cresties. They really will be the cheapest and easiest to care for.
Okay, thanks:)
So, I was wondering, in your opinion is the nicest lizard to keep. Other expenses aside, what is the nicest to handle and least intimidating of the lizards to you? (Maybe stay down to a 20 gal adult tank size if possible) and what are your favorite lizards to keep? Just curious now and want to keep talking since Im out of school and i don't want to start a new thread lol ':) as always, pictures are welcome.
Minkness
05-12-15, 07:10 PM
Crestie or leo. 10 gallon tank for an adult, easy to handle, easy to care for.
Crestie or leo. 10 gallon tank for an adult, easy to handle, easy to care for.
Yah^.=.^ thx they are cute to me too lol
prairiepanda
05-13-15, 08:06 AM
To be honest, the nicest and least intimidating lizards I can think of which would be common as pets have already been listed here. Under the 20gal size restraint, gargs, cresteds, and leopard/AFT geckos fit. Since gargs and cresties do jump sometimes that can intimidate some people, though. Taking away the size restraint, bearded dragons and blue tongued skinks are pretty chill.
My favorite lizard, which I have never owned but have known a few individuals, would be a tegu. Not a beginner lizard by any means, and definitely a completely different kind of pet than any of the other lizards listed here. They're a huge commitment for time, space, and money, but incredibly rewarding. Very interactive, friendly, and intelligent. They're often compared to dogs.
Although if I were to think of more common pet lizards which are less of a commitment, another favorite of mine is the Chinese water dragon. Not exactly a friendly lizard, though handleable, but fun to keep anyway. I don't have any right now because humidity is a pain to maintain where I currently live.
Some great news, my parents said I can get a gecko at Repticon (I don't know the terms and conditions yet though) so I have to add up some numbers^.=.^ I am so excited lol. Any suggestions on how to get the best price (if not already) and what are some big pointers on buying? (I can't believe they are letting me do this!) anyway, your opinions? I feel like I'm forgetting something. Anything else is helpful to (just in case I am missing something)
Btw, what should I expect while handling reps there at repticon?
Minkness
05-13-15, 08:36 PM
Congrats!!!
What kind of gecko? Need to know this to give you options.
Congrats!!!
What kind of gecko? Need to know this to give you options.
Thanks! :)
Most likely crested or gargoyle (want a garg more though) those are the ones I've explained the most to the folks
I also welcome pictures of setups everyone ^.=.^
Minkness
05-13-15, 09:41 PM
Keep an eye out for a 'small' zoomed or exoterra enclosure. You can get one for 50$ with nothing, or a whole set up for 75$ (this is only if you buy an adult garg or crestie). A medium or large kritter keeper should be fine for a baby or juvie and run between 10-20$ a stick, some fake plants, and a water dish should be about 20-30$ all together. You can get bugs, calcium, and food for under 10$ each. Do NOT be talked into substrate! It's a waste for gargs or cresties. Just use paper towels or shelving liner for the bottom of the enclosure.
So, depending on the size and age of your new addition, your looking at about 100-150$ for everything, including the animal. At my last repticon they had teeny crestie babies for 25$ a piece. Gargs were roughly 50$ for juvies, but the one near me didn't have many gargs at all though.
Keep an eye out for a 'small' zoomed or exoterra enclosure. You can get one for 50$ with nothing, or a whole set up for 75$ (this is only if you buy an adult garg or crestie). A medium or large kritter keeper should be fine for a baby or juvie and run between 10-20$ a stick, some fake plants, and a water dish should be about 20-30$ all together. You can get bugs, calcium, and food for under 10$ each. Do NOT be talked into substrate! It's a waste for gargs or cresties. Just use paper towels or shelving liner for the bottom of the enclosure.
So, depending on the size and age of your new addition, your looking at about 100-150$ for everything, including the animal. At my last repticon they had teeny crestie babies for 25$ a piece. Gargs were roughly 50$ for juvies, but the one near me didn't have many gargs at all though.
If I get a Baby or juvie, do you think I should go ahead and get the small tall exo terra? Plus the critter keeper? To save money In the long run? I'm going to be checking out the "local" pet store for their prices on pretty much everything. the store here had a baby garg for $60 and I mean not even as big as your thumb when it got to the store. So I think the store here is pretty cheap compared to some places I guess. But I don't think there is a whole lot of demand for reps over here, some, but not much. (I'll ask more later, I shouldn't be up in the middle of the night lol) thanks
I have decided I like the black and white or high contrast gargs the most. ^.=.^
prairiepanda
05-14-15, 11:45 AM
$60 is a fair price for a garg, but you might find a better deal at the expo. Plus you'll have more to choose from. Some breeders have package deals that include an enclosure, so you might save money that way. Don't forget to pick up some food(Pangea or Repashy) at the expo as well(ask what brand and flavor the breeder has been using, as some individuals are picky) because pet stores usually don't have the good stuff.
It's good to make note of what your LPS has for enclosures and stuff too in case you need to get things on the way home if the expo doesn't have everything, but that's unlikely. You should be able to find everything you need at the expo at a better price.
My personal preference for an enclosure would be one of the acrylic ones, but the Exo terra ones are nice too. If you're getting a baby, though, it would be easier to start with a kritter keeper and upgrade later on.
Here's a shopping list for ya:
> Food/water dishes (the breeders usually have mini solo cups that work well for this)
> some fake plants (look for things for climbing as well as hiding)
> appropriately sized enclosure
> gecko food (Pangea or Repashy; ask the breeder)
> a gecko!!!
If you want you can also pick up a spray bottle for misting there. Otherwise you can get one at a dollar store. You can use newspaper or paper towel as substrate.
$60 is a fair price for a garg, but you might find a better deal at the expo. Plus you'll have more to choose from. Some breeders have package deals that include an enclosure, so you might save money that way. Don't forget to pick up some food(Pangea or Repashy) at the expo as well(ask what brand and flavor the breeder has been using, as some individuals are picky) because pet stores usually don't have the good stuff.
It's good to make note of what your LPS has for enclosures and stuff too in case you need to get things on the way home if the expo doesn't have everything, but that's unlikely. You should be able to find everything you need at the expo at a better price.
My personal preference for an enclosure would be one of the acrylic ones, but the Exo terra ones are nice too. If you're getting a baby, though, it would be easier to start with a kritter keeper and upgrade later on.
Here's a shopping list for ya:
> Food/water dishes (the breeders usually have mini solo cups that work well for this)
> some fake plants (look for things for climbing as well as hiding)
> appropriately sized enclosure
> gecko food (Pangea or Repashy; ask the breeder)
> a gecko!!!
If you want you can also pick up a spray bottle for misting there. Otherwise you can get one at a dollar store. You can use newspaper or paper towel as substrate.
This is awesome! Thank you so much! My mom is insisting that we put it in the full size enclosure even but she does have a good point that we have to be careful to not let the other animals get to it. (cats and dogs, especially the dogs who we have caught killing and eatin wild skinks, that wasn't a good sight...)a little critter keeper wouldn't phase two of the dogs at al and the cats can just knock it off whatever I put it on.
Do you happen to know what a normal price is for high contrast or black and white morphs are?
Minkness
05-14-15, 12:49 PM
You must have some crazy dogs and cats....I have 2 cats and a dog and have never had an issue with them around my reptiles. If you put a baby in a full sized enclosure, it will stress out and probably not eat. So if that's the case, and you feel you need a full size enclosure, look for full size geckos.
You must have some crazy dogs and cats....I have 2 cats and a dog and have never had an issue with them around my reptiles. If you put a baby in a full sized enclosure, it will stress out and probably not eat. So if that's the case, and you feel you need a full size enclosure, look for full size geckos.
I can make a solution for this, I will just stick the critter keeper inside the full enclosure until it's bigger. Animals can't get to it and it won't stress out. Lol
prairiepanda
05-15-15, 08:44 AM
I can make a solution for this, I will just stick the critter keeper inside the full enclosure until it's bigger. Animals can't get to it and it won't stress out. Lol
Yep, that's a perfect solution. It would help with keeping humidity in the kritter keeper too as they tend to dry out quickly. Since your animals are such a problem I would go with an Exo Terra enclosure because the heavy glass will be harder to knock over than a lightweight acrylic enclosure. You may have to cover half of the screen(or more) on the Exo terra with a towel or tinfoil once you upgrade the little guy to it because those Exo Terras have great ventilation and also don't hold humidity too well. Keep an eye on your food dish to decide whether you need more or less humidity. Moldy food means too much humidity, which is solved by opening more ventilation, and dried out food means not enough humidity, which is solved by reducing ventilation(but don't cover all of it!) and/or misting more frequently. Food should be good in there for 2 nights.
Yep, that's a perfect solution. It would help with keeping humidity in the kritter keeper too as they tend to dry out quickly. Since your animals are such a problem I would go with an Exo Terra enclosure because the heavy glass will be harder to knock over than a lightweight acrylic enclosure. You may have to cover half of the screen(or more) on the Exo terra with a towel or tinfoil once you upgrade the little guy to it because those Exo Terras have great ventilation and also don't hold humidity too well. Keep an eye on your food dish to decide whether you need more or less humidity. Moldy food means too much humidity, which is solved by opening more ventilation, and dried out food means not enough humidity, which is solved by reducing ventilation(but don't cover all of it!) and/or misting more frequently. Food should be good in there for 2 nights.
Thanks ^.=.^ I really like the design of the exotic terra, I was planning to get one of that brand:)
For my birthday, my parents said that they would pay for $50 of my gecko! Which means I could end up getting a higher end one by supplementing with my money ^.=.^ I'm so exited! Just a bummer that repticon is a little over a month away. :(
prairiepanda
05-16-15, 10:30 AM
The month will go by quickly, I'm sure :) In the meantime, you can try thinking of possible names for your future pet! You can also look into what vendors will be at the con and check out their websites to see what they'll have available. Not all breeders announce their offering beforehand, but usually you can at least see what they've been breeding.
The month will go by quickly, I'm sure :) In the meantime, you can try thinking of possible names for your future pet! You can also look into what vendors will be at the con and check out their websites to see what they'll have available. Not all breeders announce their offering beforehand, but usually you can at least see what they've been breeding.
Good point! Will do, thanks^.=.^
Okay, I've seen somewhere that the 12th 18th is for hatchling to juvies but from what you are saying, it's good for an adult. (I may be misunderstanding) the larger size I've read is something like 18x18x24 or something like that. That is more but I am willing to pay for it if it will be appropriate. And, is it necessary to feed insects when they are young? If so, I might just consider buying a juvie or adult. I do want one that gets a nice white coloration to it when fired down, maybe some red in it as well. (I have about $200 with the $50 my parents are pitching in for the gecko)
prairiepanda
05-20-15, 09:32 AM
The 12x12x18 Exo terra is ample for an adult; you don't need the bigger one. Crested geckos need some insects as babies but gargoyle geckos do not. A tiny bit of calcium supplement in the food would be good for a baby garg though. The geckos at the con might be fired up or down, so it would be good to ask the breeder if they have photos. You should ask about the parents also, as some morphs change colour as they grow. A baby that fires down all white might gain a pink or orange tinge fired down as an adult if the parents are high reds.
The 12x12x18 Exo terra is ample for an adult; you don't need the bigger one. Crested geckos need some insects as babies but gargoyle geckos do not. A tiny bit of calcium supplement in the food would be good for a baby garg though. The geckos at the con might be fired up or down, so it would be good to ask the breeder if they have photos. You should ask about the parents also, as some morphs change colour as they grow. A baby that fires down all white might gain a pink or orange tinge fired down as an adult if the parents are high reds.
I didn't think about the fact that they'd change coloration as they grow but I did expect the fact of the fired up or down at the time I view them. The pictures and asking about the parents is a good idea. The calcium supplement should come free since I'm getting the VIP tickets (I might even get a free exo Terra set up if I'm lucky enough) and getting there early. Thankyou^.=.^
I forgot to ask(for gargoyle gecko), I know about misting but humidity varies a lot sometimes here so what is the range I should keep it in because I'll probably get a humidity sensor (what brand is the best BTW and what price should I look out for?)
prairiepanda
05-24-15, 08:53 AM
For the hygrometer, you can get the cheapest one if you'd like because you don't need to be precise. Just don't get an analog hygrometer; make sure it's digital. The analog ones are sometimes calibrated okay when they're new but always eventually get screwed up. I've seen digital ones for as low as $16, and I think that was a hygro/thermo combo.
For a garg you want the humidity to be around 50% all day(don't let it get too far below that). It'll spike to around 90% when you mist and gradually drop to 50. This spike is important, so mist daily even if the humidity never drops below 50. Just don't let it sit at 90 all day either(but that shouldn't be a problem unless there's no ventilation).
A lot of breeders don't use a hygrometer, though. I judge by watching what happens to the food, as I described before. But the humidity in my place is fairly constant(around 20) so I don't have to make any changes from day to day. If your place fluctuates a lot then a hygrometer might come in handy.
For the hygrometer, you can get the cheapest one if you'd like because you don't need to be precise. Just don't get an analog hygrometer; make sure it's digital. The analog ones are sometimes calibrated okay when they're new but always eventually get screwed up. I've seen digital ones for as low as $16, and I think that was a hygro/thermo combo.
For a garg you want the humidity to be around 50% all day(don't let it get too far below that). It'll spike to around 90% when you mist and gradually drop to 50. This spike is important, so mist daily even if the humidity never drops below 50. Just don't let it sit at 90 all day either(but that shouldn't be a problem unless there's no ventilation).
A lot of breeders don't use a hygrometer, though. I judge by watching what happens to the food, as I described before. But the humidity in my place is fairly constant(around 20) so I don't have to make any changes from day to day. If your place fluctuates a lot then a hygrometer might come in handy.
I've heard about the analog ones messing up. Yah,sometimes the humidity will make you sweat even if it's not very hot ouside. I might get the combo one just in case Temps fluctuate too much too. It's going to be in a room that isn't well insulated and is far from the main heater/AC. I don't trust the window AC much either and will probably need a fan in the summer. You mentioned breeders before, are you a breeder?
Also, I've read that regular tap water isn't good for herps but to get them the spring/drinking water from the grocery store. What do you prefer/use ?
And what about display light? What should I get. I plan to have a day- night timer for it (or switch it on/off accordingly) to stimulate day and night but what should I use? I was thinking eventually led because lamps (I've read) dry out the air and my end up getting the temp too high.
And what about using decoration that is meant for aquariums or something that is meant for just decor in the home like Newport Coast Collection Dragon Castle Tea Light Holder - Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Newport-Coast-Collection-Dragon-Castle-Tea-Light-Holder/35487876)
(of course I wouldn't put candles in it lol just in case somebody misunderstands)
prairiepanda
05-24-15, 07:18 PM
I'm not a breeder, but I know two breeders in my area. I do hope to breed in the future, though, after being inspired by my virgin female's one fertile egg(it didn't make it to full term, unfortunately).
As for temperature; generally, if you're comfortable then the gecko is comfortable. So if you're roasting then a fan would be a good idea. Try to keep the temperature below 80F. They can handle higher temperatures for short periods, but try to avoid that. The ideal temperature range is 68-75.
I would go with LEDs for lighting. Keep in mind these are nocturnal animals and will become more active when the lights are dim. If you're installing lighting directly on/in the enclosure, I'd recommend 2 different lights: one daytime bright light for daytime viewing and one dim light(can be coloured if you wish; blue seems to disturb them less than red...green should be okay too) In the evening I dim the lights in my room to encourage the critters to start coming out to explore before it's time for lights out completely.
Aquarium deco is completely safe, just rinse it with hot water before use. Home decor items are a bit more questionable because sometimes the paints or coatings on them are intended to be kept dry and may leach chemicals when wet for extended periods, as they would be in the terrarium. In most cases, it should be safe, but I would soak it in water for a couple days to see if anything comes off it. A cheap pH test kit to test the pH of the water before and after would help determine whether anything invisible is leaching out. Most people aren't paranoid enough to go to such lengths, though. Also, anything intended to be in contact with food would be safe.
EDIT: Oh yeah, and about tap water: It depends on your water. I give my animals tap water. But I have contacted my town and confirmed that they do not use chloramine or fluoride in the water here. I know that some people even use tap water without those additives and have no issues, but I personally would not. Chlorine is perfectly fine as it usually dissipates from the water as it's coming from the tap, not to be confused with chloramine which lingers. Of course, if you don't drink your tap water directly then you shouldn't give it to your animals either. Some areas have suspicious water even for humans lol
I'm not a breeder, but I know two breeders in my area. I do hope to breed in the future, though, after being inspired by my virgin female's one fertile egg(it didn't make it to full term, unfortunately).
As for temperature; generally, if you're comfortable then the gecko is comfortable. So if you're roasting then a fan would be a good idea. Try to keep the temperature below 80F. They can handle higher temperatures for short periods, but try to avoid that. The ideal temperature range is 68-75.
I would go with LEDs for lighting. Keep in mind these are nocturnal animals and will become more active when the lights are dim. If you're installing lighting directly on/in the enclosure, I'd recommend 2 different lights: one daytime bright light for daytime viewing and one dim light(can be coloured if you wish; blue seems to disturb them less than red...green should be okay too) In the evening I dim the lights in my room to encourage the critters to start coming out to explore before it's time for lights out completely.
Aquarium deco is completely safe, just rinse it with hot water before use. Home decor items are a bit more questionable because sometimes the paints or coatings on them are intended to be kept dry and may leach chemicals when wet for extended periods, as they would be in the terrarium. In most cases, it should be safe, but I would soak it in water for a couple days to see if anything comes off it. A cheap pH test kit to test the pH of the water before and after would help determine whether anything invisible is leaching out. Most people aren't paranoid enough to go to such lengths, though. Also, anything intended to be in contact with food would be safe.
EDIT: Oh yeah, and about tap water: It depends on your water. I give my animals tap water. But I have contacted my town and confirmed that they do not use chloramine or fluoride in the water here. I know that some people even use tap water without those additives and have no issues, but I personally would not. Chlorine is perfectly fine as it usually dissipates from the water as it's coming from the tap, not to be confused with chloramine which lingers. Of course, if you don't drink your tap water directly then you shouldn't give it to your animals either. Some areas have suspicious water even for humans lol
Good tips, thanks:) I don't like the taste of my water (although I don't like water anyway) I'll get drinking water from the store (or spring water, lol tastes better and costs the same at the supermarket) as to the decor, I'll probably test that the way you said when I get a chance but I have some extra old aquarium decor that I can use, and I can get others to provide cool looking hides in addition to some fake plants from the expo. My dad did suggest using very diluted bleach to sterilize used pieces.
How can I go about making the pieces I really want in there safe if there are chemicals leaking? I want to go with a boneyard/midevil theme if I can. (Like a mini dragon living in my room lol) I want to name it after a dragon of some kind. Like off of eragon (the book series) or something like that.
prairiepanda
05-25-15, 10:59 AM
If chemicals are leaching off it, I wouldn't put it in a terrarium. But if you're really really determined to have a certain piece in there and it fails the water test, you could remove all the paint from it and re-paint it yourself with a waterproof non-toxic paint. I doubt it will come to that, though. These days most things will pass the water test, thanks to decades of lawsuits getting manufacturers to exercise more caution.
When you're sterilizing used aquarium ornaments, diluted bleach is fine but be sure to rinse it several times and let it air out for several hours to ensure no bleach remains. Vinegar is safer and easier to remove, but not as effective as bleach.
Sounds like a really cool theme by the way. I bet your enclosure will look awesome! its been years since I have read the Eragon books; I should look up the dragon names again...
Good point, and Ive read about the rinsing and airing, makes sense, and is something to remember But I'll probably only Have to do that a couple times so I won't mind if it is better for cleaning and disinfection. I have a cool eastern dragon statue for the aquarium. or the one I showed you. I'm actually going to checkout some different aquarium decor in a bit.
Yah, I have read all four books (hopefully the fifth when it comes out if I'm remembering right.)
Thanks! I hope it works the way I want it to.Dragon dragon names are pretty awesome and not used for reps as much as you would think. If I get one with yellow in it, I want to name it Glaedr or if it has a lot of black/black stripes, Shruikan :) (unsexed or male of coarse)
prairiepanda
05-26-15, 08:58 AM
Shruikan would be pretty sweet. I tend to disregard gender when I'm naming herps and inverts, partly because their gender can be so uncertain and partly because I tend to get attached to specific names for a species or morph and can't think of a new one when I end up getting the wrong gender. The only time I'm really picky about gender-specific names is when there's significant sexual dimorphism. I sure get enough people asking whether I plan on breeding Zelda and Link though! Not only are they both female, but they're also not even from the same genus!
Shruikan would be pretty sweet. I tend to disregard gender when I'm naming herps and inverts, partly because their gender can be so uncertain and partly because I tend to get attached to specific names for a species or morph and can't think of a new one when I end up getting the wrong gender. The only time I'm really picky about gender-specific names is when there's significant sexual dimorphism. I sure get enough people asking whether I plan on breeding Zelda and Link though! Not only are they both female, but they're also not even from the same genus!
Hmm, good point, XD I doubt they care, even mammals don't seem to care when named wrong gender names. Humans are the only ones that seem to care. (Plus you wouldn't believe how many people think link is named Zelda lol) I don't even care what gender I get anyway so I'll probably get an unsexed if they are what I want.
Minkness
05-26-15, 12:01 PM
In gargs, most are female, so males are rarer and usually more expensive. It's the opposet in cresties.
prairiepanda
05-26-15, 12:34 PM
In gargs, most are female, so males are rarer and usually more expensive. It's the opposet in cresties.
Shhh don't say that! I'm trying to convince my new unsexed baby that he's a boy. He must be. He has to be. I even listed him as male in my sig. Couldn't afford an adult male so I'm stuck just telling him that he's a boy and hoping that will make it true :p
Minkness
05-26-15, 12:41 PM
Hey, it could happen! I had one that I got for like 40$ as unsexed and turned out to be a boy XD
Needed to down size though and wnded up selling him for 120$. He was a pretty nice orange blotch. =)
Lol, that's one thing I didn't know, but I don't really care about the gender anyway, especially since the dispositions (or size) don't differ between genders with the gargoyles.
Btw, about how much would an unsexed striped garg be by what you have seen? Maybe the red/orange stripe or the plain black stripe? (I think I want one that is almost completely black when fired up and almost completely white when fired down but that is probably unlikely. )
Minkness
05-26-15, 01:42 PM
Price differs on breeder honeatly. Could get a B/W striped for about 80$
Mine was a stral since I snatched it up for a local breeder going out of business.
Price differs on breeder honeatly. Could get a B/W striped for about 80$
Mine was a stral since I snatched it up for a local breeder going out of business.
Hmm, doesn't really sound like very much (well my parents have payed about $350 dollars for a great Dane puppy lol) My parents are paying for $50 of the garg and I have $200 to pay for the supplies and I can supplement with it:)
Minkness
05-26-15, 01:55 PM
Then you're set!
So awesome your parents are helping! Mine never did lol. Not even for my furry anomals XD
Then you're set!
So awesome your parents are helping! Mine never did lol. Not even for my furry anomals XD
It was part of my birthday gift^.=.^ (that and a crawfish boilXD ) my parents are the best, I'm lucky to have them. (Even though I rant about them sometimes ':)
I finally got my mom to touch a 2month old active BP yay!
Btw, exited for repticon! I hope they have what I want and I don't have to order online.
Does anybody have experience in Baton Rouge with the repticon there or even breeders of any reptile there?
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