Help. California Kingsnake not growing.

[barbicrash]

Ok so I didn't go into it on my welcome post but I have a concern and if anyone has any advice or suggestions or even reassurances I would greatly appreciate it.

In November 2013, I bought a California Kingsnake hatchling and was told she was 3-4 months old. She is not the banded type, she is mostly white with black stripes and a mostly black head. I named her Sindel (she was sexed at the convention). I was told she was being fed frozen pinkies once a week but when I attempted to feed her a thawed frozen pinkie, she got annoyed, rattled her tail and refused to eat it. I found a nearby reptile shop that sold live so I tried a live pinkie and she ate it and has been eating them ever since. I try and feed her once a week but there are times when it turns into 10 days, sometimes even 2 weeks due to my work schedule. A few days ago, I did the math and realized she was about a year old but she looks only very slightly bigger. When I asked the guy at my reptile shop (he's very knowledgeable), he showed me some banded kingsnakes that were 6 months old and they looked fatter than mine and slightly longer. He said I need to move her up to fuzzies which is why she hasn't grown so today I bought her one and she ate it. I'm now going to start feeding her two fuzzies a week because I feel like she's very small for her age.

Anyway, my question is, I have heard of this "power feeding" thing and that its unhealthy. Would you all consider two fuzzies a week to a possibly underfed snake as powerfeeding? Also will she grow as normal now that I've upped her meals considerably or have I stunted her growth or something lol? She doesn't seem to be sick, she's responsive, is very active (probably hunting) but hasn't shed for a few months. She has some loose skin which I thought was her about to shed but maybe its because she's underweight? I live in Los Angeles, so heat is rarely an issue, especially now that its July. Shes in a ten gallon and has plenty of room even with the hides. If you need photos, I can take pics and post them so you can all see her size. Sorry for the uber detailed post, but this is my first snake and the Internet has conflicting solutions. Oh and yes I realize that one pinky every 10 days for a hatchling isn't enough but like I said, I'm going to be much more diligent about her feeding schedule.

[drumcrush]

Two fuzzies in not power feeding at all, not for the age of that king. My garter is a year old and just was moved up from two fuzzies. For being a year old an eating pinkies, she most likely was/ is under weight. You will need to eventually get a bigger tank. A 20 gal. Long at the least, but bigger is always better(provided with enough hiding spaces) . And pictures would be nice.

Anyways, welcome to the forums:) I hoped I helped some

[EL Ziggy]

It sounds like your king is a bit undersized but you should be able to beef her up. A yearling should definitely be able to handle 2 fuzzies a week. A general rule of thumb is to feed prey items 1 to 1.5x the widest part of the snakes body. I typically feed my kings every 5-6 days until they reach the one year mark then I feed them every 6-7 days. I feed them 10-15% of their body weight per feeding. This system has worked well for me. There are other effective feeding plans as well. I alwo agree with Kyle that you'll probably need a larger enclosure soon. Best wishes.

[franks]

Welcome! Post some pics of your snake and set up for us. The quicker you get off of pinkies the better. You should be trying to feed your snake a mouse with as much fur as he can handle. If he can take hoppers go right to them. The more bone mass on the mouse the more nourishing for your snake.

Edit: when determining what your snake can handle El ziggy is dead on with general rule of thumb sizing for prey. Good luck.

[barbicrash]

Two fuzzies in not power feeding at all, not for the age of that king. My garter is a year old and just was moved up from two fuzzies. For being a year old an eating pinkies, she most likely was/ is under weight. You will need to eventually get a bigger tank. A 20 gal. Long at the least, but bigger is always better(provided with enough hiding spaces) . And pictures would be nice.

Anyways, welcome to the forums:) I hoped I helped some

Ok that's good to know cause I'd like for her to get as big as possible! Another issue that I forgot to mention above is part of my not moving her up in feeder size was due to the fact that I have a huge HUGE phobia of rodents. I understand and accept that its just part of being a snake owner and I need to get over it, and I have a bit. The live pinkies were not bad at all. I think I kept feeding her pinkies due to not wanting to deal with more mature mice but the fuzzy wasn't bad at all and now that im concerned about her weight, I'm even more willing to just get over it lol. I'm slowly getting over my mice phobia. But I did have two further questions about feeding. Once she gets big enough to eat hoppers and adults, exactly how "dangerous" is live feeding. I've heard so many different answers but live is much easier for me, plus the only time she's ever refused food was the thawed pinkie. Also, I asked the reptile shop guy if she could eat pinkies her whole life but in bigger quantities, he said yes but I wasn't aware it was at the expense of her growth rate. Do snakes grow based on quantity or size of prey or a little of both?

Also, I'm considering getting more snakes in the future, maybe ill get a garter as well since don't they like fish? And yes you did help me out, thank you!

Edit: I'm not home at the moment (posting from phone) but ill take pics of her tomorrow morning and post them so you can all see her size.

[drumcrush]

Ok that's good to know cause I'd like for her to get as big as possible! Another issue that I forgot to mention above is part of my not moving her up in feeder size was due to the fact that I have a huge HUGE phobia of rodents. I understand and accept that its just part of being a snake owner and I need to get over it, and I have a bit. The live pinkies were not bad at all. I think I kept feeding her pinkies due to not wanting to deal with more mature mice but the fuzzy wasn't bad at all and now that im concerned about her weight, I'm even more willing to just get over it lol. I'm slowly getting over my mice phobia. But I did have two further questions about feeding. Once she gets big enough to eat hoppers and adults, exactly how "dangerous" is live feeding. I've heard so many different answers but live is much easier for me, plus the only time she's ever refused food was the thawed pinkie. Also, I asked the reptile shop guy if she could eat pinkies her whole life but in bigger quantities, he said yes but I wasn't aware it was at the expense of her growth rate. Do snakes grow based on quantity or size of prey or a little of both?

Also, I'm considering getting more snakes in the future, maybe ill get a garter as well since don't they like fish? And yes you did help me out, thank you!

Edit: I'm not home at the moment (posting from phone) but ill take pics of her tomorrow morning and post them so you can all see her size.

I've fed my king both live and frozen and then just decided to stick with the frozen so that switch wasn't very hard for me. A trick I've heard(and worked for me on my garter) was braining the mice. as far as danger goes with feeding live, if you don't leave the mouse in with the snake and walk away then you should be fine. My king hasn't gotten bit with feeding adult mice but I didn't want to risk it. So when you get to the adult size, just watch so you can prevent any dangers.and the thing with staying on pinkys ive read that they don't have a well established skeletal system so the calcium levels are a bit lower compared to more mature mice.

Moving on to the garter, yes they can eat fish but only certain kinds.Garter Snake Forum - Garter Caresheet (http://www.thamnophis.com/index.php?page=caresheet) read through this and you will know why. This is the best caresheet for garters I've seen.

[barbicrash]

Alright here are some photos I took while spot cleaning her terrarium. I just fed her a fuzzy yesterday so she's been hiding ever since digesting. I intended to put her on a hardback book so you could see the relative size but she got super annoyed when I tried to pick her up so I just left her in there. The ones with blue substrate are from today. She has a big lump cause of the fuzzy. The one where she's in my hand is from late last year and I don't feel she's a whole lot bigger from then. Maybe slightly longer, not fatter.

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I have another concern as well. Shes definitely calmed down a lot during handling, but even now she runs away and tenses up when I open her cage. She has never bitten me but has pooped on me many times though she doesn't seem to do that anymore. She always calms down almost immediately after I pick her up, but the running away thing is frustrating. This morning, I think may have striked at me. I couldn't really tell if it was a strike or she was just wriggling too much. Anyway, do these snakes ever relax. I was told you're not supposed to handle them everyday, but maybe I should now? I don't want an aggressive snake.

[franks]

You should not handle your snake while there is still a "food lump" on it. You should wait two days after feeding before handling. The snake "pooping" on you when being held is called musking. It's a defensive posture that kingsnakes use because they are not comfortable being handled. In time, if he learns to trust you, this will stop. It is not abnormal for your snake to tense up before handling. My snakes are so calm and chill with being handled and they tense up when their enclosure is opened. They are animals that live in a world where pretty much everything is either eatable or could kill them. For starters, birds chow down on reptiles and as a result they do not feel comfortable with things (hands) coming down from above on them. Front opening enclosures are better in this regard, but your snake will eventually get used to it as it gets used to you. With this in mind, when you open up the lid- come down in front of the snake and towards it. Let it sense you, then just grab it. Do not hesitate when it postures and tenses up, because that reinforces it's defensive behavior. I can't stress that aspect enough. A timid handler can make a calm snake feel nervous. Your snake does not need a snake hook, but if you need one it may make grabbing the guy a little easier for you.
One more thing regarding handling- the more comfortable a snake feels in the enclosure the more comfortable it will be out of the enclosure. If you added a little more cover or even empty paper towel holders, it may go a long way. Generally a snake with start getting more confident the larger it grows. In the meantime douse it with security.

[drumcrush]

Wow, gorgeous king! But anyways, yeah she should be bigger than that at a year old.when you up the food size, she should start shedding more which means growth. I would try to feed 2 fuzzies. As far as handling, I wouldn't handle much after feeding. but every couple days or so for maybe 10-15 min is okay. My king is suuuper chill, and doesn't mind being pet on the head. Its really just something developed over time. As she get older, I would definitely expect her to calm down more.

[barbicrash]

Thanks for the tips! I don't know if you can tell from the photo but there are 3 hides. The Buddha head to the far right, the dragon head to the left and then you can't really see it but behind the dragon is this cardboard thing, I don't know what to call it, but she rarely hides in there. She also hides under the bowl and the statue in the middle is hollow and rarely she'll hide in there. Should I redo the layout? She doesn't seem stressed or scared when she slithers around but again this is my first snake so I'm open to any and all suggestions, especially since I really would like to get a couple more in the near future

[drumcrush]

Most snakes like to hide in tight, dark spaces so some snakes will have their "favorite" hide, I know mine does. Kings also like to burrow. You can redo the layout if you want, totally up to you. I've redone my lay outs a lot. Just don't do it to often or your snake can get stressed out.

[EL Ziggy]

You have a beautiful king. Once you start feeding it more I'm sure she'll grow fast.

[barbicrash]

Most snakes like to hide in tight, dark spaces so some snakes will have their "favorite" hide, I know mine does. Kings also like to burrow. You can redo the layout if you want, totally up to you. I've redone my lay outs a lot. Just don't do it to often or your snake can get stressed out.

Thanks for all the compliments! And oh yeah she definitely has a favorite hide lol. When she's not out and about she is in the large Buddha head 95% of the time. She loves that thing. I think its because its a hide but she can also climb it too.

[CosmicOwl]

Aside from pretty severe underfeeding, snakes don't usually suffer from stunted growth. They will grow slowly or quickly, depending upon how much they're being fed. I don't think it's advisable to feed colubrids much more than 15% of they're body weight, though.

Also, I think snake hooks are good tools if you want to make the snake feel less afraid. I find that picking my snake up and then lowering them into my hand is less frightening to them.

[franks]

Looks nice! If she is out and about and getting comfortable then your setup is working. I love the high white by the way. Good looking king.

[EL Ziggy]

What kind of substrate are you using btw?

[barbicrash]

I use aspen. I read that pine is toxic to snakes.

I took two more photos of her on a standard sized hardback book so you could see her size relative to an object so you could compare. Based on these photos how undersized or underweight would you say she is. Btw, its been over 48 hrs and she still had the food lump so keep that in mind.

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[EL Ziggy]

She's definitely a bit undersized but nothing that can't be corrected with larger and/or more frequent meals. If you've been feeding every 7-14 days you can increase that to every 6-7 days which is appropriate for a yearling king. Once she thickens up a bit move her up to the next largest prey size. Don't rush it or power feed her but give her heartier meals for a while. She should bulk up once you increase her food intake.

[barbicrash]

She's definitely a bit undersized but nothing that can't be corrected with larger and/or more frequent meals. If you've been feeding every 7-14 days you can increase that to every 6-7 days which is appropriate for a yearling king. Once she thickens up a bit move her up to the next largest prey size. Don't rush it or power feed her but give her heartier meals for a while. She should bulk up once you increase her food intake.

Ok so she threw up the fuzzy which I'm not going to lie, really frustrated me. I don't know if its because it was too big or because I handled her this morning. I fed her in the morning on Wednesday and this morning I took her out only to take the two photos. She couldn't have been out of the cage more than two minutes if that. Sooooo I dunno, should I keep trying the fuzzies or should I do multiple pinkies. Shes never regurgitated her food before...

Edit: Btw, she still had a lump this morning so I'm assuming it was too big for her. I can't imagine my brief handling was the cause. This is her first fuzzie so maybe its too big? It did leave a pretty large lump.

[EL Ziggy]

Ok so she threw up the fuzzy which I'm not going to lie, really frustrated me. I don't know if its because it was too big or because I handled her this morning. I fed her in the morning on Wednesday and this morning I took her out only to take the two photos. She couldn't have been out of the cage more than two minutes if that. Sooooo I dunno, should I keep trying the fuzzies or should I do multiple pinkies. Shes never regurgitated her food before...

Edit: Btw, she still had a lump this morning so I'm assuming it was too big for her. I can't imagine my brief handling was the cause. This is her first fuzzie so maybe its too big? It did leave a pretty large lump.
A regurge isn't good but a fuzzy definitely shouldn't be too big. It's possible that you stressed her a little by handling her too soon after her meal. More importantly, what are your temps like and do you have a thermostat to control your temps? I would wait 7-10 days before attempting to feed her again and wouldn't handle her at all until you get a couple of meals in her. A regurge is most often caused by stress, temps, or illness.

[barbicrash]

A regurge isn't good but a fuzzy definitely shouldn't be too big. It's possible that you stressed her a little by handling her too soon after her meal. More importantly, what are your temps like and do you have a thermostat to control your temps? I would wait 7-10 days before attempting to feed her again and wouldn't handle her at all until you get a couple of meals in her. A regurge is most often caused by stress, temps, or illness.

Ok so when I do try and feed her again, should I try a fuzzy again or mulitple pinkies? As far as temperature, like I said, I live in LA and temperatures right now are 80 at the lowest and we have plenty of 90+ days. I have one of those Zilla thermostats, it came with the terrarium. I've heard they aren't super reliable but from what it says the temperature on the hot side is around 80-85, it rarely if ever drops below that. I have a light and then an under tank heater on the warm side as well. Its possible she's sick but as I said earlier, before I fed her she didn't seem sick at all. She was always moving and climbing, smelling things and she was alert. After she ate, she's been hiding for the last two days I'm assuming to digest. I took her out of thr cage to take the picture and she actually didn't freak out making it more confusing. My roommate took the pics, then I put her back. Took about 2 minutes. I was considering bringing her to the reptile shop because he is super knowledgeable, I think he may even be a herpetologist but I don't wanna put more stress on her. :-/

[EL Ziggy]

Ok, do you have a thermostat which allows you to set the desired temperature or do you have a thermometer that just measures temps? There's a big difference. I live in GA and the outside temps are mid 80's-low 90's but with the AC on the temps in the tank are mid-high 70's on the cool side. My UTH is set at 94 which keeps my surface temps at 86ish on the warm side. You may also want to invest in a temp gun to accurately measure your temps throughout the enclosure. If your snake seems healthy and isn't losing any weight it should be ok. Double check your husbandry and if that's on point I would try feeding her again in 7-10 days. I wouldn't handle her at all during this waiting period. Some would even say wait 2 full weeks after a regurge to feed again. Best wishes bud and keep us posted.

[barbicrash]

Ok, do you have a thermostat which allows you to set the desired temperature or do you have a thermometer that just measures temps? There's a big difference. I live in GA and the outside temps are mid 80's-low 90's but with the AC on the temps in the tank are mid-high 70's on the cool side. My UTH is set at 94 which keeps my surface temps at 86ish on the warm side. You may also want to invest in a temp gun to accurately measure your temps throughout the enclosure. If your snake seems healthy and isn't losing any weight it should be ok. Double check your husbandry and if that's on point I would try feeding her again in 7-10 days. I wouldn't handle her at all during this waiting period. Some would even say wait 2 full weeks after a regurge to feed again. Best wishes bud and keep us posted.

Ok then no I don't have a thermostat, just a thermometer. I don't normally have the AC on in my room cause its broken but the fan works and I will have it on occasionally but her tank is across the room and not in direction of it. Whats strange is she rarely hangs out on the warm side. I'd say most of the time she's in her hide on the cool side even at night when the room temperature is much lower. My husbandry has been fairly consistent aside from the outside weather but I got her in the winter and she never threw up any pinkies. As far as losing weight, that I'm not sure of but I didn't notice any weight loss. Last time she ate was July 3rd so I'm a bit antsy for her to eat again but if its best to wait I will. When I do feed her again should I try for the fuzzy again?

[EL Ziggy]

Ok then no I don't have a thermostat, just a thermometer. I don't normally have the AC on in my room cause its broken but the fan works and I will have it on occasionally but her tank is across the room and not in direction of it. Whats strange is she rarely hangs out on the warm side. I'd say most of the time she's in her hide on the cool side even at night when the room temperature is much lower. My husbandry has been fairly consistent aside from the outside weather but I got her in the winter and she never threw up any pinkies. As far as losing weight, that I'm not sure of but I didn't notice any weight loss. Last time she ate was July 3rd so I'm a bit antsy for her to eat again but if its best to wait I will. When I do feed her again should I try for the fuzzy again?
I would definitely get a thermostat for your uth and make sure your temps are spot on. That's going to be crucial, then give her at least a week before feeding her again. You can give her 1 or 2 smaller meals until the regurge issue is resolved then bump up the prey size again. As long as they're not losing weight two weeks is not a big deal for a healthy snake to not eat. My Cal King went off feed for 3 months over the winter. And again for 3 weeks not so long ago. He decided he didn't want rats anymore so I've been feeding him a bunch of smaller mice instead. Feeding 3-4 mice as opposed to 1 rat ia getting old quick!

[barbicrash]

Ok so its been ten days since she threw up and I'd like to feed her again but some websites say 10 days and some say two weeks. I was gonna try feeding her a pinkie today and then maybe one in 5 days and then try for a fuzzy if she keeps both down. She's very hungry, she was hunting for about a week but I think she's given up now cause she hasn't moved much in the past few days. My gut is telling me that she's not sick because this was the first "big meal" she's had and I did handle her. The guy at the reptile shop said that when a snake first moves up food size, they are a bit more "sensitive" if you will and are more likely to throw up if handled. Also I plan on getting that thermostat but i really don't think heat is the issue and I don't even think she likes the heat, she spends 95% of her time on the cool side, even when the warm side is only like 80 degrees.

[SnoopySnake]

Also I plan on getting that thermostat but i really don't think heat is the issue and I don't even think she likes the heat, she spends 95% of her time on the cool side, even when the warm side is only like 80 degrees.

Never had a regurge so I don't have any advice on that, I'd imagine it'd be okay to feed, but I'm not 100% so I'd wait for someone else to chime in. Regarding the thermostat, you should really get one. Heat mats can get way too hot, which may be why your snake is avoiding the hot side. Those analog thermometers are only measuring your air temps, not the surface temp where your heat mat is, and are notorious for being wrong. I would recommend getting an infrared thermometer to measure surface temps and a digital thermometer/hygrometer. And obviously a thermostat.

A good inexpensive thermostat: Amazon.com : Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden (http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406571169&sr=8-1&keywords=hydrofarm+thermostat)

A good digital thermometer/hygrometer: Amazon.com - AcuRite 00325 Home Comfort Monitor, Black - Indoor Thermometers (http://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00325-Comfort-Monitor-Black/dp/B004K8RF10/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1406571301&sr=8-10&keywords=acurite+indoor+outdoor+thermometer)

An infrared thermometer: Nubee® Temperature Gun Non-contact Infrared Thermometer w/ Laser Sight - Instant Read Thermometers - Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/Nubee%C2%AE-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406571488&sr=8-1&keywords=infrared+thermometer)

[EL Ziggy]

A thermostat is a vital piece of equipment when keeping snakes that require a heat source. I use hydrofarms for all my tanks. They're not very expensive and they're pretty reliable. I haven't had any issues with mine. I think it's definitely ok to try feeding her. Start with a pinky or small fuzzy and see how she does and don't handle her for at least 2 days after feeding. Best wishes and keep us posted.

[barbicrash]

Yeah I'm definitely going to buy a thermostat. I fed her a large pinkie today and if she keeps it down, I'm gonna move her up to a fuzzy again. I've decided not to handle her until she gets a few large meals in her. Shes not an aggressive snake whatsoever so I'm going to focus on feeding her more regularly with bigger prey. I've heard that lack of handling makes them more aggressive but I dunno, she wasn't even bad when I first got her. Once she seems to be eating normally again, ill start handling her regularly and ill update here every so often.

[EL Ziggy]

She should be ok B. I think that's just a myth about snakes becoming more aggressive when you don't handle them. I handle my snakes maybe once or twice a week for about 5-10 minutes. I don't believe most snakes really like to be handled but they tolerate it, some better than others. I actually prefer watching my snakes more than handling them anyway. You're on the right track. Once your husbandry is dialed in and she's had 2-3 good meals you'll be good to go. Your girl is a little undersized right now but try feeding her 10-15% of her body weight every 6-7 days and you'll see her bulk up pretty quickly. Best wishes and keep us posted.

[barbicrash]

She threw up the pinkie. Now I'm a bit worried. It was a larger pinkie than I normally give her yes, but it was definitely a pinkie. I really don't even know what to do at this point. Shes never done this before and and it only started when I attempted to give her large food. She was eating perfectly fine before that. :-/

[EL Ziggy]

It's hard to imagine a pinky causing a regurge with a snake that size B. Most hatchlings start on pinkys and are usually off of them in a month or two. I'm stumped on this one brother. To my knowledge most regurges are caused by stress, temps. or illness. Usually if a prey item is too large the snake simply wont eat it or they'll quickly spit it out. What are you using as a heat source and what are your warm side temps like? If it's too hot or too cold that could be an issue. If it happens again a visit to the vet might be in order. Best wishes buddy.

[barbicrash]

Well I don't have a thermostat (I'm going to get one) so all I can go off is the thermometer which says 79-80 when I have the light off. If I leave the light on too long, it goes up to 100 so I turn it on and off as needed. If I were to assume she were sick, what does a sick snake look like? Its easy to tell when a dog is sick, but I don't know what a sick snake looks like. Even after she regurged the first time, she was very active and alert and looking for food. I fed her yesterday, she hid to digest and then sometime this morning she threw up. Today she's not very active or alert, probably resting. Her scales don't look odd. I don't really know how to gauge what sick is.

[EL Ziggy]

80 is going to be a bit too cool for your warm side. It should be somewhere between 86-90. You can try putting a dimmer on your heat lamp to keep your temps somewhat stable but heat lamps suck a lot of humidity out of tanks which can lead to dehydration related health problems. That might help for a while until you get your thermostat which you really want to do ASAP. Unless they're losing a lot of weight it can be hard to tell if a snake is sick just by looking at it. They can hide illness very well. I hope everything works out for you brother.

[barbicrash]

Thanks for all your help. I will definitely buy a thermostat and see if that helps. I will keep everyone posted on the status. Quick question though (sorry, I'm full of questions lol) if sickness is the issue, is regurgitation a sign of a serious illness or is that something that happens with many scopes of illness. Like should I be expecting the worst or is this a common problem with snakes?

[EL Ziggy]

Thanks for all your help. I will definitely buy a thermostat and see if that helps. I will keep everyone posted on the status. Quick question though (sorry, I'm full of questions lol) if sickness is the issue, is regurgitation a sign of a serious illness or is that something that happens with many scopes of illness. Like should I be expecting the worst or is this a common problem with snakes?

B- Regurgitation is one of the primary indicators of stress or illness in snakes but it definitely shouldn't be a regular occurrence and should be addressed quickly to ensure there aren't serious underlying health issues. Chronic regurgitation should be taken very seriously. It's very stressful on a snake's digestive system. I've never had a regurge with any of my snakes. The first thing to do is to make sure your husbandry is dialed in. That will usually correct most issues. If your husbandry is on point and you're still having regurge problems then you may have a more serious issue on your hand like internal parasites. A visit to a qualified herp vet would definitely be in order at that point. I hadn't thought about it until now but I guess it's possible you have a bad batch of feeders. Are your feeders completely thawed and warm when you offer them to your snake? Just trying to explore every possibility.

[barbicrash]

I've been feeding her live prey since I got her. I tried to give her frozen once and she didn't want it.

[EL Ziggy]

I've been feeding her live prey since I got her. I tried to give her frozen once and she didn't want it.

Copy that B. That rules out the bad feeders possibility. Once your husbandry is in order giver her another 7-10 days and try placing her in a deli cup with a thawed warm pinky overnight. If she doesn't eat or doesn't hold down her meal your next best option is a trip to the vet brother.

[barbicrash]

Just wanted to let everyone know that she actually died on July 30th in the afternoon. I'm kind of in a bit of shock, I had no clue that she was this bad. She was (seemingly) perfectly fine until I tried to give her that fuzzy on July 3rd. After she threw up the pinkie was when she seemed to be sick but I thought she was resting. I had sent off for a thermostat and everything but she died the next day. I was worried that she would but I chopped it up to being overly worried. So yeah, my roommate and I buried her in the garden in front of our apartments. She was a good snake, never bit me or acted aggressive and she was very beautiful. So yeah just wanted to thank everyone for their advice and support.

[franks]

I am very sorry to hear that.

[EL Ziggy]

Sorry for your loss brother. I wish we could have done more.

[NewSAHSnakeMom]

Sorry for your loss hun.

[sharthun]

Sorry for your loss!

[SnoopySnake]

Sorry to hear that :(