atb set up questions

[snakekid6996]

I'm interested in getting my first amazon tree boa. I have a set up in mind, but I want to run it by You guys and see if I can get some feedback. I have aprox. 200$ to spend on the set up and snake.
The original set up:
-zoo med hygrotherm& reptifogger (105.21$)
-70QT. tub (13.38"H X 17.75" W X 24.56"L)(11.99$)
-Flukers large heat pad (19.99$)
-baby/juvi. atb (garden or Halloween phase) (aprox. 50$)
-cypress mulch (aprox. 2-4$ for a bag)
-hides, branches, fake plants (already own)
I would keep the humidity at 60%+ and the heat mat set for about 85-90F.
The heat mat would most likely be placed on the bottom right half of the enclosure.
Once the atb reaches it's adult length I was planning on buying another 70QT tub, placing it upside down on top of the original, glueing them together, and cutting out a door. This would make almost a 2' cube, but with a shorter depth.
What do You guys think of this set-up and the equipment I would use? Please let me know of any problems.

[snakekid6996]

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n160/owen_richards/Cage%20Construction/HPIM3357.jpg
here is what I mean by placing two bins together to make it taller

[millertime89]

If you're using a heat mat with an adhesive side secure it to the back of the tub rather than the bottom since the ATB is arboreal and will be more likely to huddle to a side than on the ground. Otherwise it looks good. Only thing I would say is unless you have a truly monster ATB or want to make a really cool naturalistic viv the two 70s are going to be more than enough. My roommate has 2.4 and he keeps all but the largest female in a single 70. The jumbo female is in the next size up.

[smy_749]

I don't think a heat pad is a good option for an arboreal species. Even on the side. I also don't think you need a fogger. If I were you, I would buy a 5 dollar mister, and a radiant heat panel. It would still be cheaper than a fogger and heatpad combo to invest in the panel.

With either a heat panel or a pad, you didn't list a thermostat which is an absolute neccessity.

[Aaron_S]

I think it needs to be said that ATB's are not arboreal much like Green trees or emeralds are.

They are actually considered semi-arboreal as in many cases they will freely cruise the ground or lay on it like any other snake.

As for your set up it's a large waste of money for a fogger since you're using a rubbermaid. They keep humidity just fine with a bowl and maybe a spray a day. Whatever is necessary.

As Sammy pointed out, a thermostat would work much better for the money you have.

[millertime89]

The hygrotherm controls temp/humidity, something new on the market, looks like a decent little piece of hardware but I've got no experience with it.

Here's how we set the ATBs up:
70qt tub ($12)
paper towels on the bottom (free)
Heat tape on the back controlled by a Hydrofarm T-stat (~$40, more if you use an adhesive heat mat)
Use a temp gun to check temps and digital hygrometer in-tub. ($30)
Decorations (we use fake leafy vines) (couple bucks at the dollar store)

There you go $85ish plus the animal as long as you have a spray bottle to spray the enclosure when the humidity drops.

While Aaron is right that they're semi-arboreal I've found that ours spend the majority of their time on their perches when offered. They'll be in the cover more often than on the ground which has less cover.

[snakekid6996]

So an arb can live in a 70QT it's entire life? Also, I want the fogger because I won't be able to spray the enclosure every day. My parents are devorced and have 50/50 custody. I'm getting it at my dads and want to make sure it's humidity stays correct when I'm at my moms. That's why I'm getting the hygrotherm and fogger. As for the uth, what's wrong with sticking one on the side instead of using a radiant heat panel? I see a lot of people using under tank heaters for arboreals. Also, as Aaron_S stated, atbs' are semi-arboreal so even if I stuck it on the bottom it could curl up on the ground for heat. I also have a heat cable. Could I plug both into the hygrotherm and put the cable underneath the tank and the heat pad on the side?

[snakekid6996]

I don't think a heat pad is a good option for an arboreal species. Even on the side. I also don't think you need a fogger. If I were you, I would buy a 5 dollar mister, and a radiant heat panel. It would still be cheaper than a fogger and heatpad combo to invest in the panel.

With either a heat panel or a pad, you didn't list a thermostat which is an absolute neccessity.

The zoo med hygrotherm is a thermostat and hydrostat combined
It has a probe for both humidity and heat and can connect a fogger and heat strip to control both humidity and heat

[Aaron_S]

So an arb can live in a 70QT it's entire life? Also, I want the fogger because I won't be able to spray the enclosure every day. My parents are devorced and have 50/50 custody. I'm getting it at my dads and want to make sure it's humidity stays correct when I'm at my moms. That's why I'm getting the hygrotherm and fogger. As for the uth, what's wrong with sticking one on the side instead of using a radiant heat panel? I see a lot of people using under tank heaters for arboreals. Also, as Aaron_S stated, atbs' are semi-arboreal so even if I stuck it on the bottom it could curl up on the ground for heat. I also have a heat cable. Could I plug both into the hygrotherm and put the cable underneath the tank and the heat pad on the side?

Heat pad is fine if it's hooked up to the proper equipment. A lot of people go cheap with the hydro farm ones. I have no experience with them myself though.

If you plan to place the heat pad on the bottom and not the side then ensure there's plenty of cover for the snake to feel both safe and warm. As Kyle mentioned, they prefer the cover than being out in the open, regardless of perches or ground.

[Aaron_S]

The zoo med hygrotherm is a thermostat and hydrostat combined
It has a probe for both humidity and heat and can connect a fogger and heat strip to control both humidity and heat

Pretty neat. I don't know how good it is but nonetheless at least you've covered your bases.

[snakekid6996]

Heat pad is fine if it's hooked up to the proper equipment. A lot of people go cheap with the hydro farm ones. I have no experience with them myself though.

If you plan to place the heat pad on the bottom and not the side then ensure there's plenty of cover for the snake to feel both safe and warm. As Kyle mentioned, they prefer the cover than being out in the open, regardless of perches or ground.

I use a hydro farm for my bci and it works perfectly for me. I have plenty of decor and foliage I've saved up I can use.

[millertime89]

I use a hydro farm for my bci and it works perfectly for me. I have plenty of decor and foliage I've saved up I can use.

I've got 10 or so and I haven't had any issues with any of them in the 3ish years I've been using them. I know a lot of people that use them with no issue either. I've heard of one failure and it was a "friend of a friend of a friend" story so I take that with a grain of salt. One friend uses one to run his incubator but I won't go that far. I've got a herpstat for that.

[snakekid6996]

I don't think a heat pad is a good option for an arboreal species. Even on the side. I also don't think you need a fogger. If I were you, I would buy a 5 dollar mister, and a radiant heat panel. It would still be cheaper than a fogger and heatpad combo to invest in the panel.

With either a heat panel or a pad, you didn't list a thermostat which is an absolute neccessity.

If I ended up getting a heat panel what size would You recommend for a 70QT? Would a 40W be good?

[snakekid6996]

Also, during another discussion on my last thread someone told me a 40 gallon breeder tank is to small for a amazon tree boa. However, on here I'm told a 70QT tub is just fine for one. How can this be when a 70QT is (13.38"H X 17.75" W X 24.56"L) and a 40 gallon breeder is (16"H X 18"W X 36"L)?

[Aaron_S]

That person wasn't correct.

[millertime89]

^yup, not an ideal setup since it's glass and most likely has a screen top and costs too much, but the size is ok.

[lady_bug87]

The set up with the 2 bins is a lot of wasted space in my opinion. I have my big breeder female in one of those bins situated normally. She has intersecting perches (very important) but uses her ground space very often. As Aaron said these snakes are semi arboreal and in my opinion do best when set up as such.

As for the fogger. I have a water bowl and plants in the enclosure so I fill the bowl and dump water in once a week and I never have any issues with humidity. But it's up to you. I personally wouldn't waste time on it.

In terms of heating I've used everything from lights, to mats, to CHEs and never had an issue. So that's up to you as well. I like my hot side a little hotter than most. I keep it at 95. I've never had an issue in the years I've been keeping multiple animals.

If you have any questions shoot me a PM as I don't check here often

[SSSSnakes]

I breed ATBs. I keep them in a single tub with plastic lattes for perching. They like 3 points of contact for perching. I have a water bowl and a hide in the tub. I heat the snake room the tub is in to 80 to 90 degrees and I never use a fogger nor do I spray the tub. My ATBs breed, eat and shed with no issues.

[snakekid6996]

I'm a bit worried about the humidity. I live in Indiana where's don't always have the highest humidity, especially our winters. How often do You think I'd have to spray the tub if I used cypress mulch and had the water bowl over the heat mat?

[SSSSnakes]

I'm a bit worried about the humidity. I live in Indiana where's don't always have the highest humidity, especially our winters. How often do You think I'd have to spray the tub if I used cypress mulch and had the water bowl over the heat mat?

In that condition with the tub, you should have no issues with humidity. I never spray my tubs and my ATBs are fine.

[snakekid6996]

I changed my set up idea a bit.
I plan on having exactly 320$ for the set up.
I want to get a 2' pvc cube with a 40W rhp and perches (280$)
A hygrotherm thermostat (35.14$)
Cypress mulch bedding (2.25 for 2 cu ft.)
Fake plants and a hide (already own)
A large water bowl (own)
Temp gun (own)
And a snake hook (5.59)
This adds up to be exactly 322.98$
Only 3$ over budget.
I would have the hot spot under the 40W set for 90-95F, keep the water bowl on the warm side and mist once a week.
What do You guys think? And dose this cover everything?

[millertime89]

Looks good, which cube are you ordering?

[snakekid6996]

the 2' cube with the 40w heat panel from pvccages.com
unless I can find a cheaper one

[Mikoh4792]

the 40watt rhp would be too much for the 2 foot cube. I use 28watt rhps in my 2x2 cages to create high 80's and low 90's hotspots while maintaining 80-82F ambient air temps. I use 40 watt rhp's to do the same in enclosures that are 3 x 2 x 2.

[millertime89]

You could go with an A10 (2x3x2) from animal plastics for $240 and get a 40 watt RHP from RBI and decorate as you see fit.
Animal Plastics (http://www.apcages.com/home/)
RBI Radiant Heat Panels (http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels)

[snakekid6996]

the 40watt rhp would be too much for the 2 foot cube. I use 28watt rhps in my 2x2 cages to create high 80's and low 90's hotspots while maintaining 80-82F ambient air temps. I use 40 watt rhp's to do the same in enclosures that are 3 x 2 x 2.

They only come with the 40w. And that's what is reccomended. Also, my room gets very cold during the winter. It drops down into the 60's. Besides, don't they both reach the same temps, just the 40W covers more space than the 28W?