View Full Version : Bioactive setup for Thayer's kingsnake
I would like to set up a planted bioactive tank for my Thayer's kingsnake Ra but I'm not sure if that will work for him as he is a desert species. I do keep a leopard gecko in bioactive with humidity in the 50% range which seems to work well and has really improved his shedding problems so I don't see why it shouldn't work with appropriate low water plants, but I wanted to check because I am worried the increased humidity will give him respiratory problems. Does anyone here have experience of planted/bioactive set ups with species that require lower humidity?
formica
05-13-14, 10:46 AM
I would like to set up a planted bioactive tank for my Thayer's kingsnake Ra but I'm not sure if that will work for him as he is a desert species. I do keep a leopard gecko in bioactive with humidity in the 50% range which seems to work well and has really improved his shedding problems so I don't see why it shouldn't work with appropriate low water plants, but I wanted to check because I am worried the increased humidity will give him respiratory problems. Does anyone here have experience of planted/bioactive set ups with species that require lower humidity?
desert/dry bio-active setups are difficult, but not impossible, to sustain.
the 3 main ingredients, crustaceans, bacteria and fungi, cannot survive without moisture, the only way to achieve what you want, would be to have a deep substrate, with excellent drainage and free flowing ventilation, and a heavy covering of bark/leaves on the surface so the substrate doesnt dry out to much.
If the ventilation is free flowing, then humidity should not be to much of an issue, if you ensure that the air flows all the way thru the enclosure, ie suck in cool dry air at one end (low down), and expel warm humid air at the other end (high up), then you should be good to go, but there are lots of factors which can affect humidity, and as you say RI's are a very real danger, if the air gets trapped inside the enclosure, that will mean that infection causing spors will start to build up inside, and the risk of infection goes up
ensuring that dry hides are available at various temps and heights will give the snake plenty of options regarding humidity, if it can only sleep on the ground, it will be in constant contact with higher humidity
Thank you for your help formica. I am curious though because according to the care sheets I've found, most kings seem to have the same humidity requirements as cornsnakes - 40-60%. Do Thayer's kingsnakes need significantly lower humidity levels than that, or would a similar set up to a cornsnake work?
formica
05-14-14, 04:28 AM
Thank you for your help formica. I am curious though because according to the care sheets I've found, most kings seem to have the same humidity requirements as cornsnakes - 40-60%. Do Thayer's kingsnakes need significantly lower humidity levels than that, or would a similar set up to a cornsnake work?
I dont know Thayer's Kings specifically, I would ask for peoples experiences in the Colubrid forums, but yes you are right most Kings have the similar requirements to Corns, and they are generally quite tolerant to a little variation, but as I say, check with Thayer owners first - free flowing ventilation is the key to avoiding RI's either way (for temperate species)
Thank you again formica. We have pretty good ventilation in our rec room where the tank is but it does get pretty humid here in TN even with the AC running so I think it would be a good idea to rig up a fan to improve airflow. I'll see if anyone on the Colubrids board can confirm the humidity requirements.
formica
05-14-14, 11:04 AM
Thank you again formica. We have pretty good ventilation in our rec room where the tank is but it does get pretty humid here in TN even with the AC running so I think it would be a good idea to rig up a fan to improve airflow. I'll see if anyone on the Colubrids board can confirm the humidity requirements.
no probs, look forward to seeing your setup when you get it finished, post some pics up! :)
the ventilation I was referring to should be part of the enclosure, essentially lots of holes/vents, providing a flow of air into the cool side near the floor, and out the warm side at the top of the enclosure
He's currently in a 20 gallon terrarium with a steel mesh top and I will be moving him into a 35 gallon bow front aquarium once I've created the new set up. I'm not sure what top comes with it (a friend is donating it to me and I've not actually seen it yet) but I'll probably get my husband to fabricate a hinged mesh top to fit it. As far as I know the aquarium is glass, but if it is plexiglass I guess I could drill holes towards the bottom on the cool end. If not do you think a mesh top will provide sufficient ventilation?
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