My first monitor.. Varanus tristis orientalis (freckled monitor)

[SnakeyJay]

Hi, after a couple of years of considering it I've finally decided to join the varanid world. I wanted a small monitor due to lack of room to house a sav properly so it was always ackies that I considered..

Well I came across some 6 month old speckled monitors and was fascinated with them. I got a good deal on price so me and my gf decided to make the jump.

I'm so glad I did, and will try to provide the best for this little guy..

Atm he's in a 4ftx1.5x1.5.. 2-3 inch of soil/sand at front built upto 6inch at the back.. 120-130 basking spot down to 76-80 cold end.. 50-80% humidity depending where you measure it.

I'm in the process of finding someone to build me a custom viv 3ftx2ft base and 5ft or so high.. That way I can offer 1.5ft of soil and decent climbing areas, within a planted vivarium..

He is very active and jumps around everywhere. He can also hold his body weight on his tail alone so I'm taking this as a good sign of health so far.

Any tips or advice is always welcome along with constructive criticism :)

I'm sure you'll want pics so here he is along with the (very temporary) setup.

[SnakeyJay]

Phone will only let me post one pic a time..

[SnakeyJay]

...........

[marvelfreak]

Sweet looking little guy.

[SnakeyJay]

Thanks mate, I'm fascinated by the little guy :)

[smy_749]

Hey Jay, welcome to the odatria world ;)

If you have a confirmed male you won't need 1.5 feet of soil. I'm not sure if you are sure on sex or not, but if you are and not planning to pair him up, you can get away with much less than that. He won't use it for burrowing most likely as the tristis monitor group are not much of burrowers.

[SnakeyJay]

I've noticed he's not burrowing much atm, is it worth keeping the soil for humidity etc ?

Not sure on the sex mate, and I don't plan to pair him... Got enough to learn on care, let alone breeding :)

[smy_749]

I've noticed he's not burrowing much atm, is it worth keeping the soil for humidity etc ?

Not sure on the sex mate, and I don't plan to pair him... Got enough to learn on care, let alone breeding :)


If your not sure on sex, then its a good idea to keep the soil into adult hood. If he pops for you and you are sure, you won't need it. 1.5 Feet of substrate in a sealed enclosure is going to keep the humidity close to 100% especially in a planted viv (he will probably destroy them all) and fogged glass with adequate heat...I'm not convinced they need that much humidity all the time.

[SnakeyJay]

It is quite humid in there already with only a few inches of sand/soil.. He's scratching at the glass often... is this normal curiosity and escapism or a sign there's something wrong?

[smy_749]

Could be either honestly. If hes acting normal, basking, exploring, hanging out and doing typical monitor things, and scratching at the glass, than Id say its normal. If hes always on the glass something could be wrong. Maybe add a few cork tubes / more hide spots.

[smy_749]

Looking again at the enclosure, I would go outside and grab a ton more branches, 1 inch diameter or thicker, and just put them all over the place. Give him alot more to climb on, and take the cork tubes and wedge them firmly into the branches so they are suspended off the ground. An easy 0$ fix.

[SnakeyJay]

I've added more cork bark, he's exploring.. Running around.. Then dives at the glass for 5 mins or so.. Basks again and so on lol.. He's eating ok aswell so far.

[smy_749]

its probably normal then

[jpsteele80]

Congrats on your first monitor

[SnakeyJay]

If I put too many branches in I'm worried that he'll get on the UV light n pop it out or hurt himself on it..

[SnakeyJay]

I've got a video of the behaviour but my phone won't let me post it here.

[SnakeyJay]

I've just added even more cork bark n arranged it for more floor coverage... He seems to have settled down now and resumed hiding lol.

[SnakeyJay]

So do you offer food loose in the viv or in a bowl ? He seems to walk past Dubia and mealies in a bowl but will take mealies off tweezers.

[murrindindi]

So do you offer food loose in the viv or in a bowl ? He seems to walk past Dubia and mealies in a bowl but will take mealies off tweezers.

Hi, you can leave food in a dish (not so much the more mobile insects) or allow them to free roam in the enclosure (roaches, locusts, but not crickets).
You might also offer cut up fuzzy mice now and again, much easier to chop up while still frozen, then obviously defrost before feeding (you`d be surprised how many ask if they can be fed still frozen)?? ;)

[smy_749]

Hi, you can leave food in a dish (not so much the more mobile insects) or allow them to free roam in the enclosure (roaches, locusts, but not crickets).
You might also offer cut up fuzzy mice now and again, much easier to chop up while still frozen, then obviously defrost before feeding (you`d be surprised how many ask if they can be fed still frozen)?? ;)

This is what I do normally, after tong feeding I leave the rest in the enclosure, cover it with a blanket and they usually finish the rest in privacy. No need to cover the enclosure with a blanket, but mine are in a high traffic area and still a bit skittish so by doing this they are generally out more (as far as I can tell by peaking under the blanket).

Dubia free roaming in the enclosure will generally bury themselves and wedge under everything, they are not a very 'hunt worthy' species.

Keep the bowl, be persistent with tong feeding, etc. etc.

You won't know what works until you've tried them all, trial and error with these little varanids to find what they prefer.

[SnakeyJay]

Thanks for the replies... Why can't you put crickets in there? I've just gone and picked up crickets and locust to try him on. :)

He's very active and fast but I'm worried if all he will eat off tweezers is mealworms and wax worms that's it'll stunt him lmao..

On a different note, is it normal for them to try to escape through the glass often... Every now n then he will spend 5 mins scratching at the glass.. Not sure if it's normal escapism or..

He basks and explores normally, chills then returns to attempted escape lmao.

[smy_749]

Thanks for the replies... Why can't you put crickets in there? I've just gone and picked up crickets and locust to try him on. :)

He's very active and fast but I'm worried if all he will eat off tweezers is mealworms and wax worms that's it'll stunt him lmao..

On a different note, is it normal for them to try to escape through the glass often... Every now n then he will spend 5 mins scratching at the glass.. Not sure if it's normal escapism or..

He basks and explores normally, chills then returns to attempted escape lmao.


I would still add more cover, and more obstacles off of the ground for him to climb AND hide in. The terrarium should be very full. I would also replace the red bulb with a few halogen bulbs with different basking areas. 2 or 3 basking sites at different elevations and or different wattages. You can put crickets in the viv, but they have a tendency to annoy critters and they will surely breed in your substrate, resulting in thousands upon thousands of pinheads. Don't make mealworms a staple, they should be kept to a minimum IMO. Wax worms as well. Crickets, roaches, maybe some super worms, chopped fuzzies, feeder lizards if you can get them would be great, and so on.

[SnakeyJay]

I would still add more cover, and more obstacles off of the ground for him to climb AND hide in. The terrarium should be very full. I would also replace the red bulb with a few halogen bulbs with different basking areas. 2 or 3 basking sites at different elevations and or different wattages. You can put crickets in the viv, but they have a tendency to annoy critters and they will surely breed in your substrate, resulting in thousands upon thousands of pinheads. Don't make mealworms a staple, they should be kept to a minimum IMO. Wax worms as well. Crickets, roaches, maybe some super worms, chopped fuzzies, feeder lizards if you can get them would be great, and so on.

Thanks, the multiple basking sites can and will be added to the new vivarium once built.. There's not much room in this for multiple spots. As for the halogen bulbs, why are they better? Not saying your wrong, but I like to know why I'm doing things :)

I already have put in more cover , I'll get a pic in the morning if you wish. :)

If I have to tweezer feed him for now, how much do I feed? Till he stops accepting food or?

Thanks and the info is appreciated.

[smy_749]

From the picture it looks like the red bulb is somewhat of a flood light, and you have supplemental lighting which is good. I'm not 100% sure but I believe the red is somewhat blinding (its not invisible light for reptiles as advertised on 'night bulbs') and impairs vision. Maybe murrindindi can comment on this further.

The multiple spots are not absolutely necessary, however different spots with different temperatures gives him more to choose from. Also, a way for him to bask without being seen or exposed out in the open would be greatly appreciated I'm sure.

As far as feeding goes, feed them until they lose interest in food every time.

[murrindindi]

Thanks, the multiple basking sites can and will be added to the new vivarium once built.. There's not much room in this for multiple spots. As for the halogen bulbs, why are they better? Not saying your wrong, but I like to know why I'm doing things :)

I already have put in more cover , I'll get a pic in the morning if you wish. :)

If I have to tweezer feed him for now, how much do I feed? Till he stops accepting food or?

Thanks and the info is appreciated.

Hi, I`m not sure you need more than one basking site, the more heat bulbs you have the more they will dry out the air, plus you only have the one animal.
Halogen bulbs (flood, not spot) are very efficient, they can also be dimmed which makes adjusting the surface temp easier.
I use this brand, I usually pay around £5 each, they can last up to 3,000 hours (if you`re interested, try eBay). You must use a ceramic bulb fixture.
You should feed as much as the monitor will eat (daily), at this time their metabolism is at it`s highest.

http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/murrindindi/11123186274_6832645d461_zps5a0c57d6.jpg


Edit: The infrared bulbs are fine, I use them at night, mainly during the colder weather, and contrary to what some people say, I`ve never noticed them disturbing my monitors sleep (so many myths )!

[SnakeyJay]

He has a cork bark that's heated next to the basking spot to hide under, and I may try the halogens at some point. I take it the people who use halogen bulbs switch to ceramics for heat at night then?

[murrindindi]

He has a cork bark that's heated next to the basking spot to hide under, and I may try the halogens at some point. I take it the people who use halogen bulbs switch to ceramics for heat at night then?

You can use either a CHE or an infrared during the night if you need supplementary heating. I personally wouldn`t let the lowest ambient go below 24c (75f).
You can even leave the heat/lights on 24/7, providing of course there are darker/cooler areas to retreat to.

[SnakeyJay]

Is that 24c cold end or general ambient temp.

How much of a temp drop do you allow at night? And do you still supply a basking/hot spot during the night.

[murrindindi]

Is that 24c cold end or general ambient temp.

How much of a temp drop do you allow at night? And do you still supply a basking/hot spot during the night.

24c is the coldest spot anywhere in the enclosure (including under the substrate) both day and night (this is a tropical species).
If you want to use 24/7 heat/light then yes, there will always be a basking site at the "daytime" surface temp.

Edit: To make things easier, you basically need to know two temps; the lowest ambient @ approx 24c, then the surface temp at the basking site @ between approx 50 to 60c (120 to 140f).

[smy_749]

Is that 24c cold end or general ambient temp.

How much of a temp drop do you allow at night? And do you still supply a basking/hot spot during the night.


24 c is the coldest part of my enclosures during the day. At night I let it drop to 21 ish with no issues. I don't provide 24/7 heat, its lights out, heat off at night for me. Both ways work fine Imo.

[SnakeyJay]

I'm getting just over 120 on the basking spot and the coldest temp I can find is 76-80 so all seems good.. He's sleeping atm I think so I'll tweezer feed him in the morning (day off work tomorrow) and then release a couple of gut loaded locust and see how he does..

Do I need to worry about the locust being a little bit large or will he just smash them to bits lol.

[murrindindi]

I'm getting just over 120 on the basking spot and the coldest temp I can find is 76-80 so all seems good.. He's sleeping atm I think so I'll tweezer feed him in the morning (day off work tomorrow) and then release a couple of gut loaded locust and see how he does..

Do I need to worry about the locust being a little bit large or will he just smash them to bits lol.

The temps sound o.k, and providing the locusts aren`t overely large the monitor should be able to handle them easily enough. By the way, locusts are an excellent prey choice.

[SnakeyJay]

Well I got both locusts, crickets , my own large colony if Dubia (if I can get him eating em) and mealies etc... Hopefully he'll eat in his own without tweezers lmao.

[smy_749]

Well I got both locusts, crickets , my own large colony if Dubia (if I can get him eating em) and mealies etc... Hopefully he'll eat in his own without tweezers lmao.

Cut the dubia in half, and let his tongue taste the goop. That usually works.

[SnakeyJay]

Cut the dubia in half, and let his tongue taste the goop. That usually works.

Thanks SMY... I'll give that a go today. :)

[Pirarucu]

If he still doesn't go for them, try lobster roaches. They're softer-bodied and some of the dwarf species prefer them over dubias.

[SnakeyJay]

Thanks Pirarucu I'll keep that in mind... I've given him more climbing space and he's eaten a large (large for him) locust and a fed crickets.. Does that sound enough?

The locust was almost as big as his belly so I'm guessing that filled him up a bit. :)

[SnakeyJay]

He's calmed down and is eating well now.. :)

[smy_749]

He's calmed down and is eating well now.. :)

Great feeling isn't it? Well done.

[SnakeyJay]

Great feeling isn't it? Well done.

Yes it is mate :)

[SnakeyJay]

I got him a larger viv.. 3ftx3x2, I'm aware it may not do forever but it's a substantial space for now.. What does everyone think? :)

[smy_749]

I got him a larger viv.. 3ftx3x2, I'm aware it may not do forever but it's a substantial space for now.. What does everyone think? :)

Viv size is good for now. Tristis can get fairly large for a dwarf so I'm not sure how soon you will need to upgrade. Only thing I'd say is ....more foliage ! lol

[SnakeyJay]

Viv size is good for now. Tristis can get fairly large for a dwarf so I'm not sure how soon you will need to upgrade. Only thing I'd say is ....more foliage ! lol

I'm in the process of getting more things for the viv.. As soon as he gets too large he will be upgraded to a larger enclosure.. Trust me I'm not gonna scrimp on size, I just wanted him happy n healthy n in a suitable viv for now :)