Chameleon Cage Build

[DiscoPat]

I am planning on getting a Panther Chameleon sometime within the next 8 months or so.

I would prefer not to buy an already built enclosure, they are often way more expensive and sometimes the dimensions just don't work right. So I've been trying to find resources on building the enclosure myself and it is hard to come across.

I work at a home improvement store so basically anything I need I have access to, I just need to know what kinds of materials to use and mainly what kind are off limits.

Is there any major disadvantage to starting them in a nearly adult sized enclosure? I know people are usually split on this topic. I know with monitor lizards people are also split but from what I've witnessed with them it is basically useless to have a starting enclosure.
I feel if they're ready for an adult enclosure at 9 months why build a smaller one first.

I initially thought of making a wood frame around 18" deep 3' wide and 4' tall with a 2x6 at the top to mount a fluorescent fixture for a UVB bulb.
Would a PVC pipe frame work or would it be too flimsy?
What type of screen should be used, fiberglass, aluminum, hardware cloth? I've read of people doing two layers of screen, a pvc or vinyl inside with an aluminum outside, I didn't see many people talking about why.

Are automatic misters really worth it? I know they definitely need misting but is there an advantage to an exact schedule to the misting or keeping it consistent, things an automated one could do that would be hard to replicate.

If I am missing anything please add.

[Starbuck]

great choice, panthers are really beautiful animals!!

my dad and i built a really nice 6x3x2.5 standing enclosure using sealed oak and galvanized 1/4inch wire on all 5 sides. The base was two back-toback above microwave wooden cabinets, with the middle piece taken out so it was one big 3x16x2.5 storage nut under the cage. We also sunk a square plastic planter in the base to hold dirt and plants (we had live plants).
the only disadvantage with full size is that they can be tough to spot when they are tiny, and you have to be vigilant that they are finding their prey items. You can counter this by utilizing cup feeding (live insects contained in a plastic cup with a wooden dowel passed through for the cham to perch on, they will learn to recognize where to get their food and will hag out by the cup when they're hungry. you can release other insects for enrichment but the cup makes sure you know tha they are at least eating something, and helps when your insects are dusted.

i had issues with the insects escaping, so when i get some chams again i will definitely double screen it. I dont know the pros and cons of various screens (check on chameleon forums?) but my veiled would sometimes get nail bed injuries in his strter cage while we were finishing up the big one.

I used automatic misters and loved them, i also wish i had had maybe the top and two sides as plexiglass or something to maintain humidity, and i had very hard water so i went through 2 misters before switching to distilled. I think if you can mist adequately by hand then a mister isn't required.

As for the UV, i used a mercury bulb, as it provided both heat and UV, and i think the UV penetrated further than a fluorescent would.

best of luck!

[DiscoPat]

Yeah I have heard the mercury bulbs are great and the UVB penetrates about 4 ft where as the standard UVB fluorescent gets maybe 12 inches deep. I heard mercury vapor bulbs could be harmful to juvenile chameleons though.
I live in Oregon and the relative humidity is around 60-90% here so I think regular misting with a full screen should be fine.
The insect escaping thing makes me think that I would want to doubly screen it. Probably a wide screen on the inside and a tight mesh on the outside.

Are there any good mixes for a chameleon so that it doesn't need live insects as much?

Also I have heard many different size requirements for panthers, I think the most common I heard was a 4' tall 2' deep and wide. I was thinking that maybe a more appropriate style could be 4' or 6' tall 4' wide and like 12-18" deep.
I guess I'm wondering how important the depth is.

[Starbuck]

That is up to you and the plant cover you can provide, in my 6ft Vic I has a ficus and potholes on the ground, 2 staggered hanging plants, and a big peice of grape wine bolted to the roof. You really cant havetoo mmany plants or too much cover. You can also try out fake plants, but I preordered live for keeping humidity up. Lots of cover qill also help to shield your young charm from too much light.

Live prey is really the only way to go with these guys, and variety is the spice of life. I fed crickets, mealworm, Dubia roaches, wax worms and butterworms. I dont know of any formulated diets and I wouldn't recommend it. They are built to catch live insects (my veiled qould occasionally munch on hibiscus flowers or similar, my panther never did).

[fuzzhc]

I wish I had the time and patience to make a custom build lol. I use a repti breeze xl for me female panther, exo terra glass for my male as he's only 4 months or so and a flexarium for my vieled but replacing that with a repti breeze this week.

Misters are great from what I've read however I've also heard of alot of problems with them breaking. I just hand mist 4 times daily and when I'm not in someone else will for me.

You could start out in a adult cage but will have to keep an eye on their food intake, as someone else stated cup feed or hand feed.

As for the mvb I wouldn't use one for a juvi as they require lower basking temps. I have one for my vieled but would never use them for my panthers, especially female as her temps are quite alot lower. The disadvantage of using these are also that they can't pick and choose when they want heat or uv. If you use a tube and basking bulb then they can walk freely between the two.

Hope this helps :D