Am I On The Right Track?

[Brett943]

I am currently building a 36"x18"x18" melamine enclosure for a Corn, King, Milk or possibly Ball Python. It has a 3" substrate dam and an acrylic front/door.

I have read that marine sealant/silicone would be good for the seams/joints inside. Is this a good choice?

For the exposed wood I was going to spray with coats of varathane to seal the melamine from getting moisture in it. Is this alright?

I am going with belly heat either with an UTH or heat tape (never used before). Which would you recommend? Thermostat will of course be used.
My plan was to build a raised platform at 1 end with heat on the bottom of the enclosure with a small gap and pegboard which the snake would essentially rest on so the heat will rise up through the holes. I will run the wiring out the gap where the snake has no access.

For the 1/4" acrylic front should I screw the hinges to it or use and adhesive?

Any advice on things to change?

First pic is looking in from front before substrate dam and acrylic. 2nd pic is looking down on the front with acrylic front mocked up but not attached.

Thanks,
Brett

[ilovemysnake]

i have no idea, but it looks good! i love the custom made ones. beautiful!

[Lankyrob]

Personally, that is too small for a ball, ok for a corn tho.

Nice looking cage

[KORBIN5895]

Everything looks great so far. I would screw or pop rivet the acrylic on. I would also go with a radiant heat panel for a heat source.

[kwhitlock]

Dam! Looking good! :)

[kelzerman]

I would seal those Raw edges. The minute water hits those edges they will swell like a sponge. If you search fastcap on google go to there site and they have what you call peel and stick edgebanding. It is 15/16" wide so it will cover 3/4" melamine well. You can use spray adhesive on the edges to give it a better adhesion. The trick with the spray adhesive is to let it dry before sticking. It creates a better bond. After you apply the banding you will have an overhang along the edges. Take a sharpened putty knife or use a razor to trim.

Looking good though!!!

[Brett943]

Personally, that is too small for a ball, ok for a corn tho.

Nice looking cage

Thank you for the insight, I have a corn that will most likely go in there once she grows.

[Brett943]

Everything looks great so far. I would screw or pop rivet the acrylic on. I would also go with a radiant heat panel for a heat source.

Thank you, I was thinking screws for the acrylic as well. What are others take on a radiant heat panel for Corn/King/Milk snakes if there warm hide will be on the hot side? Would they get any belly heat that way or would the outside of the hide just get warm?

[Brett943]

I would seal those Raw edges. The minute water hits those edges they will swell like a sponge. If you search fastcap on google go to there site and they have what you call peel and stick edgebanding. It is 15/16" wide so it will cover 3/4" melamine well. You can use spray adhesive on the edges to give it a better adhesion. The trick with the spray adhesive is to let it dry before sticking. It creates a better bond. After you apply the banding you will have an overhang along the edges. Take a sharpened putty knife or use a razor to trim.

Looking good though!!!

Thank you very much. This sounds like it will make it look better and seal well. I will probably still spray varathane on it first just to be extra cautious.

Thanks for the advice and comments everyone, keeo the ideas rolling!

[kelzerman]

Screws don't take well to acrylic. I would pre-drill very carefully with a drill bit made for acrylic. Then go with rivets. Or even a small nut and bolt. The acrylic doesn't really bite the threads and has a tendency to crack.

[Brett943]

Screws don't take well to acrylic. I would pre-drill very carefully with a drill bit made for acrylic. Then go with rivets. Or even a small nut and bolt. The acrylic doesn't really bite the threads and has a tendency to crack.

Oh ok thanks. I would hate to mess it up as it wasn't cheap!

[kelzerman]

Yes acrylic is not cheap! I learned my lesson the hard way.

[KORBIN5895]

Screws don't take well to acrylic. I would pre-drill very carefully with a drill bit made for acrylic. Then go with rivets. Or even a small nut and bolt. The acrylic doesn't really bite the threads and has a tendency to crack.

Thanks for clarifying for me. I did mean nut and bolt.... at least in my head I did.

[kelzerman]

I believe you.

I mean don't get me wrong you can drill and tap acrylic. Or drill and countersink and use a brass insert, but that is for thicker acrylic. I have done it many times. To be honest it is not worth it for this purpose. On a hinge that will be opened and closed constantly you will want something that will hold up to abuse.


Oh hey I forgot to mention when drilling the acrylic with a new bit you can grind down the first edge a little to keep it from catching and cracking the acrylic. Also, I would add a little candle wax to the bit. And once you start to drill do not stop. Keep that bit moving. Use a wooden backer (block) so you don't blow the back out.

Just some advice I learned from my horrendous mistakes made in the past.

[Brett943]

I believe you.

I mean don't get me wrong you can drill and tap acrylic. Or drill and countersink and use a brass insert, but that is for thicker acrylic. I have done it many times. To be honest it is not worth it for this purpose. On a hinge that will be opened and closed constantly you will want something that will hold up to abuse.


Oh hey I forgot to mention when drilling the acrylic with a new bit you can grind down the first edge a little to keep it from catching and cracking the acrylic. Also, I would add a little candle wax to the bit. And once you start to drill do not stop. Keep that bit moving. Use a wooden backer (block) so you don't blow the back out.

Just some advice I learned from my horrendous mistakes made in the past.

Really appreciate this advice! I bought the edging material and glue, hit the exposed wood with 8 light coats of varathane and siliconed the inside seams/joints and am waiting for it to dry.

Also picked up a 12" LED light to mount inside for display purposes and will be using left over acrylic for my raised heating platform instead of pegboard.

[kelzerman]

No problemo

[LarryS]

Looking great! Nice work.


Kelzerman is not kidding about the drill bit. Acrylic bits are inexpensive and well worth the trouble to locate. I order mine online.

Plexiglass, Lexan & Plastic Drill Bits On-Line (http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Plexiglass_Lexan_Plastic_Drill_Bits)

There are other sources including Amazon etc. Also, if there is a plastic supply in your area they may carry them as well.

Looking forward to the rest of the build!

[Brett943]

Today I installed the tracks for the raised acrylic platform, mounted the LED light, drilled holes in the acrylic front door for the hinges and applied the edge banding. Enclosure is nearly done!

Here is a pic with the platform in and light on. Don't mind the mess inside, I will clean it up....

[kelzerman]

Looking good!

[Brett943]

Well she's all finished! Here are some pics with the acrylic door installed. There is roughly 3/8" of combined top and bottom gap all along the door to allow air in/out. Also the hole for the uth plug will allow hot air to escape and the vertical barrier also has 1/4" gap between the acrylic platform to allow air to circulate. Do you think I have enough ventilation?

[LarryS]

That came out really nice!

As far as ventilation, hard to say. Heating/venting is a very complex compilation of factors. Most people kinda "wing it" by going with proven techniques and it works out just fine though. Your room temps and ambient humidity will be a big factor. Make sure you have a proper temp gun or the like and a hygrometer to check things.

You currently have a total of about 20 square inches of ventilation around your door. That's huge, so you may have some difficulty maintaining your control temp/humidity points. You should set everything up and see what happens before introducing an animal into the cage.

If the ventilation is too great you could always put "lands" around the door edges to block it off.

Great job on the cage!

[kelzerman]

Looks good. Now get the snake in there and snap some photos ;)

[MizCandice]

Great job! I wish I had the skill and patience to do this :-)

[Brett943]

That came out really nice!

As far as ventilation, hard to say. Heating/venting is a very complex compilation of factors. Most people kinda "wing it" by going with proven techniques and it works out just fine though. Your room temps and ambient humidity will be a big factor. Make sure you have a proper temp gun or the like and a hygrometer to check things.

You currently have a total of about 20 square inches of ventilation around your door. That's huge, so you may have some difficulty maintaining your control temp/humidity points. You should set everything up and see what happens before introducing an animal into the cage.

If the ventilation is too great you could always put "lands" around the door edges to block it off.

Great job on the cage!

I will be setting up the enclosure ahead of time to monitor it. I have a digital thermometer and an analog hydrometer. I figure it cant be any worse than a glass aquarium with screen top and cover that the snake is in now...at least I hope not!

[Brett943]

Great job! I wish I had the skill and patience to do this :-)

Thanks for the compliment! It certainly isn't beautiful but I don't think the snake will judge me :rolleyes: and for the record I don't have woodworking experience and used a simple acrylic cutter for the door and skill saw for the pieces that Home Depot didn't cut for me. Take the time and plan and anything is possible.

[kelzerman]

Thanks for the compliment! It certainly isn't beautiful but I don't think the snake will judge me :rolleyes: and for the record I don't have woodworking experience and used a simple acrylic cutter for the door and skill saw for the pieces that Home Depot didn't cut for me. Take the time and plan and anything is possible.


You learn with experience and this was a good one!!

[Chris72]

Looks good.
Looking forward to seeing it all decked out and furnished.

[LarryS]

I will be setting up the enclosure ahead of time to monitor it. I have a digital thermometer and an analog hydrometer. I figure it cant be any worse than a glass aquarium with screen top and cover that the snake is in now...at least I hope not!

Actually, now that I am looking at your pictures on my iPad instead of my phone I see that the acrylic door overlaps on the side. I was figuring rough vent area with the sides included. That cuts what I had figured by almost a third.

Still, you are smart by setting up the cage to get it right first.

Again nice work!

[Brett943]

Actually, now that I am looking at your pictures on my iPad instead of my phone I see that the acrylic door overlaps on the side. I was figuring rough vent area with the sides included. That cuts what I had figured by almost a third.

Still, you are smart by setting up the cage to get it right first.

Again nice work!

Yes the sides overlap so hopefully it will hold the heat and humidity well enough. Should get it set up this weekend to see if it will be sufficient and if so my baby boa will be moved to it instead of the glass tank he is in now.

Thanks for the compliment.

[kelzerman]

Are the hinges riveted? How much flex is on the end of that door? Can you pry it open? I only ask because acrylic bends. And almost positively will start to warp in time. That's a given and there isn't much you can do to prevent that.

[LarryS]

You know I have seen acrylic warp. But we have almost 100 acrylic doors in service between my buddy's collection and the ones we have built and not one problem with this. Many of them are over 8 years old.

We use only 1/4" acrylic but I have seen 1/8" used with no problems as well. I think it is due to the door being held captive by the hardware or guides.

[kelzerman]

Yes your right if you have the hardware placed correctly or it's in a track it shouldn't warp. Depends on the quality of the acrylic also. If it's cast or extruded... I'm worried about this upper corners. But only time will tell.

[LarryS]

I have used both cast and extruded with no warping problems. I use nothing but cast now though.

I think extruded would be more likely to warp.

[kelzerman]

I would have to agree on the extruded. I work with a lot of extruded at work because the thickness doesn't vary as much as the cast. Cast is all over the place. Is the 1/8" doors you use in a track?

[LarryS]

I use all 1/4"

A friend of mine has several cages using 1/8" in tracks with no problems. I agree the tracks probably keep it straight.

I'm betting though that the 1/8" will do ok with hinges and latches.

[Brett943]

Are the hinges riveted? How much flex is on the end of that door? Can you pry it open? I only ask because acrylic bends. And almost positively will start to warp in time. That's a given and there isn't much you can do to prevent that.

The hinges are drilled then bolted. I placed them so that the door cannot be pried open on either side or the top.

[Brett943]

It is 1/4" acrylic as well and if warping occurs then I will correct it as needed. It won't happen over night so not too worried.

[Brett943]

Well I didn't move my boa into that enclosure as it was a bit big and ugly for my girlfriends house but I have since been busy converting an old tv stand into and enclosure that is 30" long at the longest and 20" or so at the back by 16" deep. I used a radiant heat panel and a uth in it. Tonight I just finished building my rack/shelf using 4" heat tape. This can hold three 32qt sterilite tubs or six 15qt sterilite tubs or nine 6qt sterilite tubs or any combination of those. Here are some cell phone pics (the tv stamd is not an up to date pic it is just of the stand before I modified it). I left the top open so I could put a higher tub up there if I acquire a semi arboreal or arboreal snake. Looked at some Irian Jaya Jag carpet python babies today and will likely pick one up in the next few days:)

[Brett943]

Semi arboreal tubs. May need to add more dowel and plants.