PDA

View Full Version : First Snake: Am I on the right track?


prairiepanda
10-17-13, 10:35 AM
I've had various reptiles in the past, but never a snake, so I want to make sure I'm doing everything right.

I got myself a 2 year old female cal king with her enclosure and everything for a great deal. I chose an older snake for 2 reasons: 1) I wouldn't have to worry about upgrading the enclosure(or not much, depending on what you guys think of the terrarium size) and 2) I could find one with the personality I want, rather than gambling on the personality of a hatchling(normally I wouldn't discriminate, but since it's my first snake I wanted a calm and friendly one).

After I got her, I kept her setup the way it came for 24 hours to give her a chance to take in all the new smells etc. Then I removed her to clean bin where she got to eat an adult mouse(this is the size she was eating before I got her, and it didn't seem to give her any issues) while I made changes to her enclosure. And yes, I plan on feeding her in the bin rather than in her enclosure every time. Her previous owner did the same.

Anyway, she's close to 3.5ft long came with a 40G tank with one of those clip-on screen lids. There's 4 clips, and they fit snugly, so the lid is quite secure. It's not a 40G long, it's a tall one, and there was a lot of space wasted vertically. There was just one straight branch in the corner for her to climb. I added some more branches, interconnected and supported with those bend-a-branch things(I made sure none of them had wires sticking out). This way, she has a lot more room to move, I think. It also provides a basking area closer to the heat source. I made sure to set it up in such a way that I can take all the branches out as one object, to make cleaning easier.

Her tank was heated with a regular heat lamp that was kept on 24/7 before(I know, right?). The lamp itself has a nice built-in dimmer, so I kept that and replaced the bulb with a ceramic heat emitter. There was a seemingly non-functional strip thermometer on the tank, which I removed. I put one of those cheap analog reptile thermometers at each end of the tank and used a good digital thermometer with a probe to monitor specific temperature zones while I adjusted the heating. I'm really unsure about the heat, though. I've seen a lot of different numbers suggested in books/websites/caresheets/etc. so I'm not really sure what is best for the snake. Right now the hottest point, on the branches just below the lamp, is at 88.5F during the day and drops to 81.0F at night. The coolest point in the tank is around 75F during the day and down to 70F at night. There is a range of temperature zones in between, so the snake doesn't have to move between two extremes. I will have to monitor the temperatures closely, because the ambient temperature of the room changes with the weather.

The room I have her in is south-facing, so she gets a decent photoperiod just from natural sunlight. The blinds are always closed, so even though they let quite a bit of light through there is never direct sunlight on the enclosure. I've read mixed opinions on the need for UVA/UVB in snakes...I haven't found any real evidence that a snake would need a UV bulb, though.

I don't have an accurate hygrometer, but based on my research I get the impression that a water dish big enough to soak in should be sufficient to provide humidity. She came with a little dog dish of water, so I replaced that with a plastic tray big enough for her to fit in. She seemed to appreciate it and spent a long while showing off her ability to hold her breath underwater. Is it okay to replace the water every 3 days? Or should I be doing it daily?

There is only one proper hide in the enclosure, towards the cool end, but there is a pile of fake leaves in the warmer end which she can completely hide under as well.

She is currently on shredded aspen bedding, which I like personally. I'm not completely sure whether I will stick with this or switch to newspaper. How often do you guys change out your aspen bedding? I think with newspaper I would need to replace it quite often.

I plan on feeding her once every 7 to 10 days, and give her around 48 hours to digest her food before handling. I'd like to take her out probably twice a week for exercise and to keep her accustomed to handling. Her previous owner reached right into the tank to pick her up. I don't have any issue working in her tank, even right next to her, as she is very calm, but I'm not sure if maybe a snake hook might be a better idea for actually picking her up? I keep tarantulas, and I never touch them with my hands inside their enclosure even for very docile individuals. Usually direct contact is only safe outside the enclosure. But snakes aren't tarantulas. What do the experienced keepers do?

My cat, a very relaxed senior, enjoys sitting next to the terrarium and watching the snake, even when it isn't moving. The cat isn't prone to sudden movements and won't bother jumping on top of the tank or anything, but I wonder if just the smell of a predatory animal nearby might stress the snake? Or could she get used to the cat's smell? The snake doesn't seem too bothered by it, and usually goes up to the glass so check out the cat. But since I haven't had a snake before I might be reading her body language wrong.

And I think that covers everything....let me know if I am doing anything wrong or if there's anything I can do better.

prairiepanda
10-18-13, 09:38 AM
I should add that I choose to feed in a bin mostly as a matter of convenience. If I just wanted to eliminate food responses upon opening the cage, I would just employ "tap" training. But letting her eat in a separate bin gives me a chance to fiddle with her heating and rearrange her furniture without disturbing her. However, I do spot cleaning and some other maintenance while she is in the cage, just so she's used to my presence. When I take her out, I handle her for a bit before placing her in the bin, where the thawed mouse is already waiting. I only handle the mouse with gloves and wash my hands before handling the snake. When she is done eating and the mouse lump has moved a good way down her body, I let her crawl straight from the bin to her cage without handling her. Doing this also avoids the risk of her ingesting substrate.

nyx
10-18-13, 10:51 AM
I got myself a 2 year old female cal king with her enclosure and everything for a great deal.

Calkings are pretty bomb-proof and make good first snakes.

And yes, I plan on feeding her in the bin rather than in her enclosure every time. Her previous owner did the same.

It will probably make no difference to a king whatsoever. Their feeding response will continue whether or not you feed them in a bin or in the enclosure or if you do it hanging upside down from a trapeze.

I added some more branches, interconnected and supported with those bend-a-branch things(I made sure none of them had wires sticking out). This way, she has a lot more room to move, I think. It also provides a basking area closer to the heat source. I made sure to set it up in such a way that I can take all the branches out as one object, to make cleaning easier.

Kings can climb, but they are terrestrial snakes. They would enjoy a nice 36" PVC cage better than a 40 gal tall tank. Still, it won't hurt her.

The lamp itself has a nice built-in dimmer, so I kept that and replaced the bulb with a ceramic heat emitter.

I prefer belly heat for terrestrial snakes, but it doesn't matter.

I put one of those cheap analog reptile thermometers at each end of the tank and used a good digital thermometer with a probe to monitor specific temperature zones while I adjusted the heating.

The digital one is the only one you need to keep. Go ahead and throw out the analog ones.

I'm really unsure about the heat, though. I've seen a lot of different numbers suggested in books/websites/caresheets/etc. so I'm not really sure what is best for the snake. Right now the hottest point, on the branches just below the lamp, is at 88.5F during the day and drops to 81.0F at night. The coolest point in the tank is around 75F during the day and down to 70F at night.

I keep North American colubrids (some exceptions) at 75°F - 85°F. Your temps are fine as quoted.

The room I have her in is south-facing, so she gets a decent photoperiod just from natural sunlight. The blinds are always closed, so even though they let quite a bit of light through there is never direct sunlight on the enclosure. I've read mixed opinions on the need for UVA/UVB in snakes...I haven't found any real evidence that a snake would need a UV bulb, though.

They don't. And glass is filtering out the helpful rays anyhow. Be sure that the sunlight is not raising the enclosure temperature.

I don't have an accurate hygrometer, but based on my research I get the impression that a water dish big enough to soak in should be sufficient to provide humidity. She came with a little dog dish of water, so I replaced that with a plastic tray big enough for her to fit in. She seemed to appreciate it and spent a long while showing off her ability to hold her breath underwater. Is it okay to replace the water every 3 days? Or should I be doing it daily?

You can also provide a humid hide (small plastic box, hole cut in lid, fill with sphagnum moss) but kings don't need extra humidity. I like water replaced daily, if you can, but three days is fine as long as there is no substrate or other foreign matter in the water.

There is only one proper hide in the enclosure, towards the cool end, but there is a pile of fake leaves in the warmer end which she can completely hide under as well.

It would be nice to give another one.

She is currently on shredded aspen bedding, which I like personally. I'm not completely sure whether I will stick with this or switch to newspaper. How often do you guys change out your aspen bedding? I think with newspaper I would need to replace it quite often.

Newspaper is for birdcages. Give burrowing snakes a particulate substrate (as you've done with aspen). Aspen is spot-cleaned when needed and I replace in full once a month.

I plan on feeding her once every 7 to 10 days, and give her around 48 hours to digest her food before handling. I'd like to take her out probably twice a week for exercise and to keep her accustomed to handling. Her previous owner reached right into the tank to pick her up. I don't have any issue working in her tank, even right next to her, as she is very calm, but I'm not sure if maybe a snake hook might be a better idea for actually picking her up? I keep tarantulas, and I never touch them with my hands inside their enclosure even for very docile individuals. Usually direct contact is only safe outside the enclosure. But snakes aren't tarantulas. What do the experienced keepers do?

With that handling schedule, you may get defecated on, depending on how fast the food moves (kings are usually pretty quick about "processing"). A snake hook is probably only necessary if you have a defensive or food-centred snake. If it makes you feel more comfortable, use one. It doesn't really matter; it is safe to pick up a king with your bare hands; it is also safe to use a hook properly on one, and there is no set way of doing it.

My cat, a very relaxed senior, enjoys sitting next to the terrarium and watching the snake, even when it isn't moving. The cat isn't prone to sudden movements and won't bother jumping on top of the tank or anything, but I wonder if just the smell of a predatory animal nearby might stress the snake? Or could she get used to the cat's smell? The snake doesn't seem too bothered by it, and usually goes up to the glass so check out the cat. But since I haven't had a snake before I might be reading her body language wrong.

It's probably fine. Unless the cat is hammering on the glass, the snake doesn't care. They are not set off by the scent of nearby predators, or else people who own calkings would never own anything else (California kingsnakes eat other snakes).

prairiepanda
10-18-13, 11:02 AM
Thanks for the tips. If I hadn't got the snake along with the enclosure and everything, I would have preferred a more horizontally oriented enclosure and a heat mat with rheostat. But I saved money this way and it seems like the setup is pretty decent now. I may rehouse her in the future, though. Is a 40 gal big enough for a fully grown king?

nyx
10-18-13, 11:35 AM
Thanks for the tips. If I hadn't got the snake along with the enclosure and everything, I would have preferred a more horizontally oriented enclosure and a heat mat with rheostat. But I saved money this way and it seems like the setup is pretty decent now. I may rehouse her in the future, though. Is a 40 gal big enough for a fully grown king?

Yes. 40 gallon long is 48", which is 12" less than I would consider minimum for an adult king. I don't like aquariums because they are heavy and awkward, but it is functional and can be used for your king's entire life if you want.

prairiepanda
10-18-13, 01:04 PM
Yeah, if I rehouse her I'll be getting a plastic enclosure. I just like to use the aquariums for size reference, because they have standardized dimensions.

I'm wondering if she's a bit overweight. Seems like I'm seeing a lot more skin between scales than I do on photos of healthy kings. I tried to post a pic, but kept getting "post denied" because of the URL, so...maybe somebody can give me some advice just based on my description? I see skin between scales when she is in a straightened out and relaxed position, not just when she's curled up. And it's not just the lump where her food is either. Her whole midsection is like this to some extent(around the head and tail looks normal). If you think she's overweight, what would be the best solution? Smaller prey, or less frequent feedings? Her previous owner fed her every 7 days exactly.

nyx
10-18-13, 01:15 PM
Yeah, if I rehouse her I'll be getting a plastic enclosure. I just like to use the aquariums for size reference, because they have standardized dimensions.

I'm wondering if she's a bit overweight. Seems like I'm seeing a lot more skin between scales than I do on photos of healthy kings. I tried to post a pic, but kept getting "post denied" because of the URL, so...maybe somebody can give me some advice just based on my description? I see skin between scales when she is in a straightened out and relaxed position, not just when she's curled up. And it's not just the lump where her food is either. Her whole midsection is like this to some extent(around the head and tail looks normal). If you think she's overweight, what would be the best solution? Smaller prey, or less frequent feedings? Her previous owner fed her every 7 days exactly.

Your posts are denied because you've only made 4 posts. I believe, at 5, you can post images.

Here is a very fat corn snake (http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71836). Note the "hips" by the vent, the rounded shape of the back, the skin between scales. California king snakes can be judged similarly, and many colubrids are overweight in captivity.

I would want to see a picture before I said she was overweight; if she was, switching to 14 days between feedings (yes, two weeks won't kill her) can help, as can exercise (letting her crawl, supervised, up and down stairs, or swimming in a bathtub - again, supervised).

I feed on a 10 day schedule for adult colubrids (some exceptions). Maintain that and let her have some time out and make sure she has a basking spot to metabolize her food, and I wouldn't worry too much.

prairiepanda
10-18-13, 01:35 PM
Thanks! She doesn't have hips, and certainly isn't as round as that corn, so I don't think she's doing too bad. I'll go with a 10 day feeding schedule with plenty of exercise and see how she does. I never would have though about the bathtub!

I'll try to get a photo of her whole body so you can see her general shape and whatnot...not sure when she'll come out of hiding though.

nyx
10-18-13, 02:05 PM
Thanks! She doesn't have hips, and certainly isn't as round as that corn, so I don't think she's doing too bad. I'll go with a 10 day feeding schedule with plenty of exercise and see how she does. I never would have though about the bathtub!

I'll try to get a photo of her whole body so you can see her general shape and whatnot...not sure when she'll come out of hiding though.

With the bathtub, be careful that the water is neither too warm nor too cold; what feels warm to us is hot for a snake (we generate our own heat), and cold will also be bad. Also ensure that you watch, and that she is not in too long and gets exhausted and unable to keep her head above water.

Watching a snake swim is quite interesting, enjoy!

prairiepanda
10-18-13, 02:49 PM
Seems like 5 posts isn't enough to use URLs after all! Oh well. Thanks for your advice anyway. Very helpful!

atavuss
10-18-13, 09:50 PM
Seems like 5 posts isn't enough to use URLs after all! Oh well. Thanks for your advice anyway. Very helpful!

Try posting pictures after 10 posts. ;)

prairiepanda
10-19-13, 10:18 AM
Heres a pic of part of her body(she looks fairly squarish to me, though I'm not sure the photo conveys that) and a close-up of her skin in a mostly straight relaxed position. That grey thing is a dirty shirt, by the way. Not sure whether it's necessary to give her my scent, but she likes to snuggle up in it anyway. That thermometer stopped working(go figure) so I'll replace it with a second digital. Do I have to worry about her eating the probe?

http://imgur.com/jSM2BfK (http://imgur.com/jSM2BfK)
http://imgur.com/s05ebqb (http://imgur.com/s05ebqb)

(Pics aren't showing up for me, so I turned them into hotlinks in case you can't see them either)