View Full Version : Making a good Carpet/Bredli enclosure?
Ryodraco
07-12-13, 09:32 AM
In my quest to own a large reptile suitable for my lifestyle I recently acquired a used wood enclosure off of craigslist which I initially was planning to use for a bullsnake. Yet the more I think about it the more it seems suited to a carpet or bredli python. The enclosure itself was custom built for a boa constrictor by the previous owner.
I wanted to see what your thoughts are on what modifications may be needed to make it as good as it can be for such a snake, or indeed if it is suited for one at all. I've looked through a good seven pages of the forum and feel it would be best to get specific answers for this particular cage.
The enclosure's dimensions are 5 feet by 2 feet by 2 feet.
It has a radiant heat panel installed on top with a thermostat.
Please note that there shouldn't be any heat concerns from the window behind the cage. There is a building behind the window so the window is only exposed to the sun for a short period each day.
My main concerns are four things:
1. The door is scratched up so I am going to try to have a friend build a new one. What should I tell him to do? Simplest is best but I am concerned with ventiliation as currently a space between the current door and the enclosure is the only obvious source of ventiliation. The rest of the enclosure looks sealed tight.
2. In relation to the above question, should I drill some holes on top or on the sides to increase ventiliation, as high humidity is unnecessary for carpets? If so which side of the tank should I do so, the warm or the cool?
3. I have read repeatedly that while not required carpets do benefit from UVB light, their color improving etc. Thus it would seem best to provide one for a better day/night cycle and to make the inside of the cage more viewable. In my experience low wattage UV lights don't get very hot (I can put my fingers on one for a while before it gets uncomfortable), but still what would be the safest and easiest way to install a light in the enclosure? What type of fixture would be best? I only have experience with using lights on top of screen tops.
4. With the given dimensions of the tank should I refrain from considering coastal carpets due to their size? The usual thing I hear is that a good size for a snake enclosure is for half the perimeter to be as long as the snake itself, which would mean I can't consider any carpet that reaches more than seven feet. Yet I have also heard enclosure size rules don't necessarily apply the same way to pythons and boas.
In addition to answers to my questions, feel free to give any other advice you feel is pertinent.
pdomensis
07-12-13, 10:07 AM
1. The glass is an easy fix. Any glass shop or even Lowes/Home depot will custom cut glass or acrylic. If you can't router an edge for the glass to sit in, you could either glue it straight on the wood like it was previously (silicone caulk works well), or get some cheap framing material or wood trim so the glass sits in place.
2. Once the glass is fixed, I would put in substrate, water dish and a hygrometer to see what your humidity is. Then start messing with ventilation. I like holes on both sides and the back; I think it helps the air flow. You can slowly add more holes until you get somewhere close to the proper RH.
3. like you said, UV isn't necessary but does look nice. Ceiling mounted tubes are easy to install; you'll just have to drill a hole for the cord and putty it up so the snake can't get out.
4. It would be hard for any carpet to fill up that sized cage, but I love my bredli and would recommend them to anyone.
additional ideas: I would really clean that sucker before introducing a new snake. If it were me I would probably sand, stain and reseal the whole thing.
Good luck!
Amadeus
07-12-13, 10:30 AM
Actually It's about floor size. Lets say you have a 7 foot coastal. To get the floor size we must find the area of the floor, which would 10 square feet. That's a lot of space. Not to mention how tall it is.
Either way you look at it, an enclosure that size will be fine for a coastal unless it's a giant and pushing 9-10 feet. Cheers
Ryodraco
07-12-13, 11:06 AM
1. The glass is an easy fix. Any glass shop or even Lowes/Home depot will custom cut glass or acrylic. If you can't router an edge for the glass to sit in, you could either glue it straight on the wood like it was previously (silicone caulk works well), or get some cheap framing material or wood trim so the glass sits in place.
Just to be clear, the current glass doesn't seem to be glued on but has many screws attaching it to a metal hinge. I had figured removing the hinge and making a new type of door might be easier than trying to drill twenty holes in new glass.
Course I have zero experience in this, I only know that many refer to the single fold down/up doors to be more cumbersome than they are worth.
2. Once the glass is fixed, I would put in substrate, water dish and a hygrometer to see what your humidity is. Then start messing with ventilation. I like holes on both sides and the back; I think it helps the air flow. You can slowly add more holes until you get somewhere close to the proper RH.
There are hygrometers I neglected to mention (the thermometers are dual) but I'm not sure how accurate they are. One reads 24%, the other 34%, while my own humidity reader says 37%. Basically it is less humid inside the enclosure than it is in the rest fo the room (40%) This is all without a water bowl of course.
And what size should the holes be? Just regular drill bit sized?
3. like you said, UV isn't necessary but does look nice. Ceiling mounted tubes are easy to install; you'll just have to drill a hole for the cord and putty it up so the snake can't get out.
Is that what the tubes are actually called? Could you give me any brand names?
additional ideas: I would really clean that sucker before introducing a new snake. If it were me I would probably sand, stain and reseal the whole thing.
I'll definately clean it, but I'm not interested in it looking perfect. It certainly seems sealed, no signs of rotting anywhere and its weight indicates quite high quality wood.
pdomensis
07-12-13, 11:33 AM
lights: Fluorescent Mounting Fixtures For UVA and UVB Bulbs (http://www.bigappleherp.com/Fluorescent-Mounting-Fixtures?sc=2&category=22)
glass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QopGyy29rbk
holes: smaller than the snake can get through or you could do larger with vent covers or screen
I am assuming that is a piece of acrylic due to the way it is just hanging there and attached. Also, acrylic scratches easy and you said it was all scratched up. It looks like it is 48"x18". It is easily replaceable, I am pretty sure home-depot sells 48"x24" polycrylic. Should be about $40-$50 for 1/8" sheet.
For ventilation, I would drill the holes for, and use these:
2.5 RND ALUM SCREEN LUVER BRN - Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/2-5-RND-ALUM-SCREEN-LUVER/dp/B000KKKBEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373650781&sr=8-1&keywords=luver+vents)
I think if you want to implement lighting you will loose alot of height unless you were to cut out a piece of the top and place your lighting on the top of the enclosure. If you put a light in there you will need to have a covering or screen to protect the snake from it. If you do get a carpet, you are going to regret loosing some of the height as your snake gets older.
Lastly, I do think that your enclosure would be suitable for a coastal. Many people (and breeders) house them in much smaller environments. I do not necessarily agree with that- but your 5x2x2 would be great for a coastal. You may want to replace that branch with a sturdier one. It would cost you $12 to pick up a good solid wooden 5" closet pole at home depot and is easy to install once your snake gets some girth.
Amadeus
07-12-13, 01:20 PM
I am assuming that is a piece of acrylic due to the way it is just hanging there and attached. Also, acrylic scratches easy and you said it was all scratched up. It looks like it is 48"x18". It is easily replaceable, I am pretty sure home-depot sells 48"x24" polycrylic. Should be about $40-$50 for 1/8" sheet.
For ventilation, I would drill the holes for, and use these:
2.5 RND ALUM SCREEN LUVER BRN - Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/2-5-RND-ALUM-SCREEN-LUVER/dp/B000KKKBEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373650781&sr=8-1&keywords=luver+vents)
I think if you want to implement lighting you will loose alot of height unless you were to cut out a piece of the top and place your lighting on the top of the enclosure. If you put a light in there you will need to have a covering or screen to protect the snake from it. If you do get a carpet, you are going to regret loosing some of the height as your snake gets older.
Lastly, I do think that your enclosure would be suitable for a coastal. Many people (and breeders) house them in much smaller environments. I do not necessarily agree with that- but your 5x2x2 would be great for a coastal. You may want to replace that branch with a sturdier one. It would cost you $12 to pick up a good solid wooden 5" closet pole at home depot and is easy to install once your snake gets some girth.
Wait are you saying it will be fine for a coastal or it wont? I'm tired....
Ryodraco
07-12-13, 01:35 PM
Not sure how to identify if it is acrylic or glass. Would acrylic be simple to drill holes in? Or should I just use glue?
I think if you want to implement lighting you will loose alot of height unless you were to cut out a piece of the top and place your lighting on the top of the enclosure. If you put a light in there you will need to have a covering or screen to protect the snake from it. If you do get a carpet, you are going to regret loosing some of the height as your snake gets older.
The fixtures pdomensis linked don't seem like they would take up much space or need screen covers, but then clarification on that would be appreciated.
The info on those fixtures does say they are meant to be mounted inside the enclosure but doesn't say how. Screws, nails?
You may want to replace that branch with a sturdier one. It would cost you $12 to pick up a good solid wooden 5" closet pole at home depot and is easy to install once your snake gets some girth.
You mean the little vine thing wrapped around the thick pole? If I keep that in it would only be to give the snake something rough to help it grip the main climbing pole.
Amadeus
07-12-13, 02:44 PM
Not sure how to identify if it is acrylic or glass. Would acrylic be simple to drill holes in? Or should I just use glue?
The fixtures pdomensis linked don't seem like they would take up much space or need screen covers, but then clarification on that would be appreciated.
The info on those fixtures does say they are meant to be mounted inside the enclosure but doesn't say how. Screws, nails?
You mean the little vine thing wrapped around the thick pole? If I keep that in it would only be to give the snake something rough to help it grip the main climbing pole.
Acrylic is clear plastic. Acrylic clearer usually. To tell you could make a very small scratch on an area where it won't be seen with a knife/fork. If it makes a real scratch it's acrylic if is scuffs and slides off it's glass. Or you could tap it lol...
Yes, Acrylic is easier to drill. Amadeus above covered the differences.
Regarding the light fixture, personally, I would not let the snake have access to it. I would make sure it is guarded with a screen.
The pole is not a big deal at all, I was referring to replacing or sistering up to the existing pole once your coastal grew. If you were going to get a carpet, he would perch right on and climb all over that pole. That pole is a little narrow for a full grown carpet is all I was getting at.
Ryodraco
07-12-13, 06:22 PM
Yes, Acrylic is easier to drill. Amadeus above covered the differences.
Still not sure what would be better or easier, replacing the existing acrylic or making a new door... Cutting perfectly round holes to install actual vents seems difficult as well, though perhaps not for my friend...
Regarding the light fixture, personally, I would not let the snake have access to it. I would make sure it is guarded with a screen.
Is there a place to get a screen fitted for it? How could I attach a custom-made one?
The pole is not a big deal at all, I was referring to replacing or sistering up to the existing pole once your coastal grew. If you were going to get a carpet, he would perch right on and climb all over that pole. That pole is a little narrow for a full grown carpet is all I was getting at.
I see. The existing pole is a little less than an inch and a half thick. How thick would the replacement/extra poles need to be?
pdomensis
07-15-13, 07:58 AM
Sorry these answers get longer and more complicated each time. Keep in mind there are many ways to go about this and i'm just offering a few suggestions.
For protection against the light, the simplest answer is to not install a UV bulb since it's not necessary strictly speaking.
If you still want the light though, you could get some 1/4 inch hardware cloth (wire mesh) from any hardware store to cover it. I would mount the light on the ceiling toward the front of the cage for best lighting; then you can attach the screen on the front wall below the light and on the ceiling behind the light so the screen is at an angle. I would probably put a strip of wood over the ends of the screen to cover the edges (the ends will be sharp) and then put screws through the strip of wood and the screen and into the wall/ceiling of the cage.
Another thought is to wait until the snake is larger (a year or so) before you install the UV. Then he'll be too big to climb up into the light fixture. The heat won't be a problem if he jsut occasionally bumps against it. You just don't want him to climb on it and get wrapped up in there.
As for the stick, if it's 1 1/2" it will be fine for a while like franks said. A 7' bredli weighs about 5-8+ lbs, figure more for a big coastal female, so just be sure it can handle that.
Ryodraco
07-15-13, 01:19 PM
Sorry these answers get longer and more complicated each time. Keep in mind there are many ways to go about this and i'm just offering a few suggestions.
For protection against the light, the simplest answer is to not install a UV bulb since it's not necessary strictly speaking.
If you still want the light though, you could get some 1/4 inch hardware cloth (wire mesh) from any hardware store to cover it. I would mount the light on the ceiling toward the front of the cage for best lighting; then you can attach the screen on the front wall below the light and on the ceiling behind the light so the screen is at an angle. I would probably put a strip of wood over the ends of the screen to cover the edges (the ends will be sharp) and then put screws through the strip of wood and the screen and into the wall/ceiling of the cage.
Another thought is to wait until the snake is larger (a year or so) before you install the UV. Then he'll be too big to climb up into the light fixture. The heat won't be a problem if he jsut occasionally bumps against it. You just don't want him to climb on it and get wrapped up in there.
As for the stick, if it's 1 1/2" it will be fine for a while like franks said. A 7' bredli weighs about 5-8+ lbs, figure more for a big coastal female, so just be sure it can handle that.
Thanks for the detailed answer. I intend for the one I get to already be largely grown, so it coiling around the fixture shouldn't be an issue. I was wondering whether it would be best to mount it in the front or back of the enclosure so its good to know front is better.
As for the stick, I'm actually having trouble finding wooden closet dowels at local stores. I do want to add to the climbing options, but most actual branches for sale seem too small (I do have a store that sales large perches, I'll have to see if any are suitable).
Now I know I won't get a unbiased answer as to whether a coastal carpet or bredli is better, so let me ask this. Can I be assured a bredli will never need prey larger than jumbo rats? Or should I look for a variety of carpet smaller than the coastal to be sure of that? Looking online I see people referring to feeding their bredlis rabbits, and large coastals being given small pigs, neither of which are feeders I could easily acquire.
Course I realize that even the largest could simply be fed multiple smaller prey items, but is this an optimal way to feed?
pdomensis
07-15-13, 01:40 PM
Adults of both would be able to handle a g-pig or small rabbit, but both species do just fine on a strict rat diet.
Be creative with the branch. PVC works well (but is ugly IMO); also think about curtain rods, ladders, elk antlers, and shovel handles. My preference is to go find a branch not currently being used by a tree.
Ryodraco
07-27-13, 03:52 PM
Moving slowly ahead with my plans, I'd like some input on perches. I decided I would rather use actual branches, and figured that it would be easiest to get perches that were designed for birds (attempting to properly secure the branches I picked up myself in the neighborhood has proven difficult and I like the bird perches more).
That is all I would have to do is drill a hole in the side of the enclosure for the screw fitting attached to the perch and voila.
But what kind of wood would be best? There is a lot of variety. Manzanita seems common but could it be too smooth? Is grapewood too bumpy? How important would it be for there to be branches? Here's a selection on one website: Perches (http://www.everythingbirdie.com/perches.html)
As far as I understand it based on "The Complete Carpet Python" by Mutton and Julander, the main thing of importance regarding a perch is that it be high enough for the python to hang down from.
Mikoh4792
07-27-13, 04:31 PM
Moving slowly ahead with my plans, I'd like some input on perches. I decided I would rather use actual branches, and figured that it would be easiest to get perches that were designed for birds (attempting to properly secure the branches I picked up myself in the neighborhood has proven difficult and I like the bird perches more).
That is all I would have to do is drill a hole in the side of the enclosure for the screw fitting attached to the perch and voila.
But what kind of wood would be best? There is a lot of variety. Manzanita seems common but could it be too smooth? Is grapewood too bumpy? How important would it be for there to be branches? Here's a selection on one website: Perches (http://www.everythingbirdie.com/perches.html)
As far as I understand it based on "The Complete Carpet Python" by Mutton and Julander, the main thing of importance regarding a perch is that it be high enough for the python to hang down from.
Grape wood, mountain laurel, java, oak...etc.
There is actually a guy on fauna classifieds selling a whole bunch of branches/logs that you might like. He can cut them to size for you. Look under the caging section
I actually bought some for my 3x2x2's coming in next week.
Ryodraco
07-27-13, 10:24 PM
Grape wood, mountain laurel, java, oak...etc.
There is actually a guy on fauna classifieds selling a whole bunch of branches/logs that you might like. He can cut them to size for you. Look under the caging section
The one selling the oak branches? Thank you but I'd rather they came with a mounting screw already in them.
And what about manzanita wood? I noticed you didn't include it in your list.
Mikoh4792
07-27-13, 10:30 PM
The one selling the oak branches? Thank you but I'd rather they came with a mounting screw already in them.
And what about manzanita wood? I noticed you didn't include it in your list.
I have had bad experiences with manzanita. They all seem to rot and mold even in enclosures with average/slightly above average humidity.
By the way do you know where to buy thick logs of manzanita? The only manzanita I could ever find were thin twigs with skinny branches.
Ryodraco
07-27-13, 11:23 PM
I have had bad experiences with manzanita. They all seem to rot and mold even in enclosures with average/slightly above average humidity.
By the way do you know where to buy thick logs of manzanita? The only manzanita I could ever find were thin twigs with skinny branches.
The ones at Petsmart and Petco seem to be a good inch or a bit more thick. Not ideal perhaps, but ordering online worries me a bit as I fear the mounting screw not being long enough to fit through the half inch plus thick walls of my enclosure.
Finding local stores that sell large branches is proving difficult though. I went to a specialty bird store but the large perches I wanted were in display cages with birds and not for sale, or rather they no longer sold them. Most perches for sale seem to be around a foot long and I am presuming at least two feet would be better for a python.
Oh, the manzanita here is claimed to be an inch to two inches thick: Manzanita Perch 24" Straight 1"-2" diameter (http://www.everythingbirdie.com/sp7.html)
Mikoh4792
07-27-13, 11:26 PM
Ah I see. Why can't you just put your own mounting screws? Just get some screws, spacers, and nuts.
I was just browsing a few enclosures on youtube and I found this. This guy makes corner shelves out of straight logs. I might just do this for my carpet pythons when my new cages come in next week.
Yo1pCW5uUks
Ryodraco
07-27-13, 11:50 PM
Ah I see. Why can't you just put your own mounting screws? Just get some screws, spacers, and nuts.
I have basically no such skills, if I tried to drill a mounting screw into a perch I would probably just end up breaking the perch.
I was just browsing a few enclosures on youtube and I found this. This guy makes corner shelves out of straight logs. I might just do this for my carpet pythons when my new cages come in next week.
Yo1pCW5uUks
I wish I could make things like that, but my attempts tend to just lead to stress and confusion.
Mikoh4792
07-28-13, 12:07 AM
I have basically no such skills, if I tried to drill a mounting screw into a perch I would probably just end up breaking the perch.
I wish I could make things like that, but my attempts tend to just lead to stress and confusion.
LOL once you try it you'll realize how easy it is.
All you need is a power drill and some drill bits.
1. Drill a hole in your enclosure
2. Drill a hole in the branch that is slightly thinner than the screw you will be using
3. Screw together and your done.
pdomensis
07-29-13, 07:19 AM
I prefer mounting closet rod hangers and not securing the stick. Makes cleanup easier and sometimes it's easier to get the snake out attached to the stick than trying to unwind him in the cage.
Mikoh4792
07-29-13, 11:41 AM
I prefer mounting closet rod hangers and not securing the stick. Makes cleanup easier and sometimes it's easier to get the snake out attached to the stick than trying to unwind him in the cage.
How big can you find them though? The biggest I could find were only 1" in diameter.
Ryodraco
07-29-13, 06:17 PM
Also you can still remove the sticks in the mounting method I intend to use, you just have to unscrew them.
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