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sweatshirt
06-17-13, 01:45 PM
I have a ZooMed thermostat that I'm using for Magenta... the problem is it doesn't have ... "settings". It just has a green area (cooler), yellow (warm), and Red (warm-hot). I usually keep it on a high yellow/low red and use my temp gun and it usually says about 85-89 (fahrenheit).

I use both a UTH and a bulb but the bulb is low wattage and it's mostly for viewing. Should I just invest in a new thermostat with legit temp settings or is the temp gun way safe?

My other question is the temperature. I get SO cold easily so the house is pretty much always at 77, resulting in the "cool" side of the enclosure being 79 usually. :/ I'll turn it down to 74-75 if I need to for Magenta but I'll freeze to death, even in this summer heat.

So is there any way to make that side of the tank cooler without turning down the house temps?

Concept9
06-17-13, 01:59 PM
I just bought one of the zoo med thermostats and am testing it right now. So far I'm not impressed. What I did is install another thermometer and laid its probe right beside the probe of the thermostat to monitor the same area then adjust the thermostat up/down till I got my desired temperature.

I find it has approx., a +/- 5~ variance.

As for question #2, do you have some pictures of your set up including the size of the tank ?

Ourobouros
06-17-13, 02:06 PM
My apartment is set to 77 and the cool side of my MBK's tank reads about 80 while the hot side is about 90-95 these are measured by two different types of thermometers in the tank. I'm going to get 3 more I think and a 2nd humidity gage all in the name of accuracy. Sometimes overkill is good.

sweatshirt
06-17-13, 02:14 PM
Here's a pic of her tank. I keep putting off getting a solid top for the tank but I'll hopefully get that done this week... the humidity isn't horribly low or anything, but it needs to be higher.

http://i.imgur.com/UBXH4dw.jpg

Anyways her tank is 30 gal & ignore the dusty lamp lol it's clean now. Anyways thanks for the advice :) I'll most likely just get a new thermostat. The probe thing attached to the thermo confuses me. What's the point of it, if it doesn't tell me the temp?

Mikoh4792
06-17-13, 02:39 PM
Here's a pic of her tank. I keep putting off getting a solid top for the tank but I'll hopefully get that done this week... the humidity isn't horribly low or anything, but it needs to be higher.

http://i.imgur.com/UBXH4dw.jpg

Anyways her tank is 30 gal & ignore the dusty lamp lol it's clean now. Anyways thanks for the advice :) I'll most likely just get a new thermostat. The probe thing attached to the thermo confuses me. What's the point of it, if it doesn't tell me the temp?

If you are going to get a new thermostat I suggest getting a herpstat 2 or VE 300x2. You can use one probe for the UTH and the other for the heat lamp, both with night drop settings. You can also be more exact on what temps you want them to be.

How do you keep humidity up with the screen top like that?

Nice looking setup.

Concept9
06-17-13, 02:41 PM
Personally I do not think your temps are off, I only have one Boa so I am far from an expert.

From everything I have read, this is what I have come up with and do.

Basking temp = 88-90~F
Cool Side = 78-80~F

sweatshirt
06-17-13, 02:53 PM
If you are going to get a new thermostat I suggest getting a herpstat 2 or VE 300x2. You can use one probe for the UTH and the other for the heat lamp, both with night drop settings. You can also be more exact on what temps you want them to be.

How do you keep humidity up with the screen top like that?

Nice looking setup.

Thanks for the advice! I'll look into that thermostat.

For the humidity question.. I can't. The best I can do is spray her moss and tank with warm water and it keeps it decently. That's why I said I *need* a solid top.

And thanks, I tried to make it look nice :D

Concept9
06-17-13, 03:00 PM
Try Cypress mulch, Repti-Bark is good by I find cypress mulch a lot better. Also, throw something over as much of your screen as possible to reduce the humidity loss.

A bigger water dish with more surface area over your UTH will help as well, more surface area for the water to evaporate.

Amadeus
06-17-13, 03:25 PM
Try Cypress mulch, Repti-Bark is good by I find cypress mulch a lot better. Also, throw something over as much of your screen as possible to reduce the humidity loss.

A bigger water dish with more surface area over your UTH will help as well, more surface area for the water to evaporate.

I also like cypress mulch for my two boas.

op- Your temps sound perfect, check it with the temp gun when ever you feel like to make sure the temps are still spot on and you should have a happy boa.

KORBIN5895
06-17-13, 03:50 PM
Here's a pic of her tank. I keep putting off getting a solid top for the tank but I'll hopefully get that done this week... the humidity isn't horribly low or anything, but it needs to be higher.



Anyways her tank is 30 gal & ignore the dusty lamp lol it's clean now. Anyways thanks for the advice :) I'll most likely just get a new thermostat. The probe thing attached to the thermo confuses me. What's the point of it, if it doesn't tell me the temp?

First off your thermostat is fine. The probe is there to measure the temp and tell the unit when to cut power, not to tell you the temp.

Secondly most thermostats attached to a uth have to be run at a higher temp setting to get the proper temp at the probe so the numbers would be irrelevant anyway. What that means is you have to run your thermostat at 95°f to achieve 90°f at the hot spot because the number are inaccurate.

If you do get a new thermostat Herpstat is my favorite.

There is no way to cool your cold end with out lowering the ambient room temp unless you use a fan which would kill your humidity even more.

Finally your temps seem just fine.

Mikoh4792
06-17-13, 04:35 PM
First off your thermostat is fine. The probe is there to measure the temp and tell the unit when to cut power, not to tell you the temp.

Secondly most thermostats attached to a uth have to be run at a higher temp setting to get the proper temp at the probe so the numbers would be irrelevant anyway. What that means is you have to run your thermostat at 95°f to achieve 90°f at the hot spot because the number are inaccurate.

If you do get a new thermostat Herpstat is my favorite.

There is no way to cool your cold end with out lowering the ambient room temp unless you use a fan which would kill your humidity even more.

Finally your temps seem just fine.

Just to add you don't have to attach the probe to the UTH. You could always just place it somewhere in the warm side and set it to 90F. It will get 90F there.

smy_749
06-17-13, 04:56 PM
I think placing it outside is better. Having water spilled on it, or having it moved around by the snake and end up dangling in the air or on a piece of cage furniture, can cause serious issues. Your thermostat is going to crank up the heat and then you might as well have no thermostat at all. If your going to put it in the enclosure, make triple sure its secure. Outside is better, and just adjust for the diff like korbin said.

Mikoh4792
06-17-13, 05:27 PM
I think placing it outside is better. Having water spilled on it, or having it moved around by the snake and end up dangling in the air or on a piece of cage furniture, can cause serious issues. Your thermostat is going to crank up the heat and then you might as well have no thermostat at all. If your going to put it in the enclosure, make triple sure its secure. Outside is better, and just adjust for the diff like korbin said.

For my enclosures the probe and water bowl are on opposite ends so a water spill is nothing to worry about for me. Plus my water bowls are short and shallow so they can not be tipped over.

However I did worry about the probe dangling around so I silicone the cords to the walls and have them secured by heavy objects.

On my rack systems I place the probe outside the tubs directly on the heat tape since I heat multiple enclosures with one heat source.

ErikBush97
06-17-13, 05:52 PM
Thanks for the advice! I'll look into that thermostat.

For the humidity question.. I can't. The best I can do is spray her moss and tank with warm water and it keeps it decently. That's why I said I *need* a solid top.

And thanks, I tried to make it look nice :D

Honestly.. I tried the whole modified screen thing... It works a little bit, but it is NOT consistent/doesn't stay at the same %. fluctuated from 40-60% humidity for me. I changed to a tub a like Thursday or Friday, and I am definitely never going back to glass. It's intense how much humidity stays in there (70-90%) And I have not misted once! So it's working amazingly. The tub I bought was $7. The dimensions are 23"L x 16"W x 6"H... I think. Again... $7 over a $70 terrarium. You should buy one, set it up as if you'd have your snake in it (with some hides, water bowl, etc.) and keep your snake in it's terrarium with the screen cover/modified top, and keep track of heat & humidity in both and decide which one is better! again... If you don't like it, it only costs around $7 for one (where I live, anyways) so you're not going to screw yourself out of a crap ton of money if you don't want a tub :)

smy_749
06-17-13, 06:37 PM
Siliconing or ziptying etc. to the enclosure is fine, and works great. I just like to be able to remove the probe when I take the tubs out to clean etc. and I find it easier to be on the heat, not the tub, but whatever works.

Mikoh4792
06-17-13, 07:13 PM
Siliconing or ziptying etc. to the enclosure is fine, and works great. I just like to be able to remove the probe when I take the tubs out to clean etc. and I find it easier to be on the heat, not the tub, but whatever works.

How can I do this with a zoo-med reptitherm heat pad? The reason why I choose to put the probes inside the tank is partly due to the fact that the heat pad only generates heat outwards from the sticky side of the heat pad. The back of the heat pad may get warm but that is only residual heat being produced from the sticky side. What kind of heat pads can I use where I can place the probe directly on it? By the way I am using these heat pads on glass enclosures.

smy_749
06-17-13, 07:23 PM
How can I do this with a zoo-med reptitherm heat pad? The reason why I choose to put the probes inside the tank is partly due to the fact that the heat pad only generates heat outwards from the sticky side of the heat pad. The back of the heat pad may get warm but that is only residual heat being produced from the sticky side. What kind of heat pads can I use where I can place the probe directly on it? By the way I am using these heat pads on glass enclosures.

I stopped using zoomed pretty much anything, except a spray bottle I have :P. I had a zoomed undertank heatpad when I was like 15 or something, and without a thermostat. It burned my carpet and could have caught my house on fire....
so yea. I'll post a picture of the ones I use if I'm not using heat tape from flexwatt.

Mikoh4792
06-17-13, 07:26 PM
I stopped using zoomed pretty much anything, except a spray bottle I have :P. I had a zoomed undertank heatpad when I was like 15 or something, and without a thermostat. It burned my carpet and could have caught my house on fire....
so yea. I'll post a picture of the ones I use if I'm not using heat tape from flexwatt.

How is flexx watt on glass? I actually have a spare roll of heat tape(8 feet I think) but I've never tried using it on glass enclosures.

I had a similar experience, although it was more my fault than the product's. When I was 9 or so I was cleaning enclosures and I left a heat lamp's ceramic socket top on the carpet and it burned a hole right through. Almost caught on fire.

smy_749
06-17-13, 07:41 PM
How is flexx watt on glass? I actually have a spare roll of heat tape(8 feet I think) but I've never tried using it on glass enclosures.

I had a similar experience, although it was more my fault than the product's. When I was 9 or so I was cleaning enclosures and I left a heat lamp's ceramic socket top on the carpet and it burned a hole right through. Almost caught on fire.

Idk if your referring to flexwatt heat tape, I don't use glass enclosures generally, and if I do its with a heat lamp. Never tried the tape on them, I have flexwatt type pads that are laminated or w.e, and they never get too hot.

They look like this (nothing to 'stick' them with) You can use velcro or something lol

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UTd4lZc8L.jpg

Mikoh4792
06-17-13, 07:50 PM
Idk if your referring to flexwatt heat tape, I don't use glass enclosures generally, and if I do its with a heat lamp. Never tried the tape on them, I have flexwatt type pads that are laminated or w.e, and they never get too hot.

They look like this (nothing to 'stick' them with) You can use velcro or something lol

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UTd4lZc8L.jpg

I've seen those type of pads before. Do they get hot enough to penetrate plastic enclosures? Once my snakes become juveniles I am moving them to AP or PVC cages. And if you aren't using glass enclosures(with the bottom having some distance between itself and the floor), how do you keep the cage elevated so the cage doesn't pinch the pad/cord?

smy_749
06-17-13, 07:53 PM
I've seen those type of pads before. Do they get hot enough to penetrate plastic enclosures? Once my snakes become juveniles I am moving them to AP or PVC cages. And if you aren't using glass enclosures(with the bottom having some distance between itself and the floor), how do you keep the cage elevated so the cage doesn't pinch the pad/cord?

Folded pieces of cardboard and 4 pieces of velcro stuck to the pad / bottom of the enclosure works well.

sweatshirt
06-18-13, 03:53 AM
Haha thanks for all the replies everyone.

I'm just gonna make do and modify the glass tank til she outgrows it in a year or so, then I'll get a boaphile or something.

I'm hoping to get a new thermostat and a humidity monitor for her tank.

And yeah, about the substrate, I ditched the aspen I had her in first and got a bedding that holds humidity better... I forget what it's called and I lost the bag but it seems to have helped so far. :P

I also am wondering about something I read on another forum... they said a way to help keep humidity in is to moisten some paper towels and lay them on the top of the tank... should I just turn off the lamp and do that til I get Plexiglas?

P.S. Right now I have the probe inside on top of the UTH so should I move it to the outside and tape it on?

Ourobouros
06-18-13, 09:40 AM
The heat lamp is what evaporates moisture most. My glass tank is fine with the night heat lamp on, maintaining 35-40% (for MBK) without my help, but the day bulb just drinks up all the water I spray. I actually covered one half the tank lid with a nice large thick plastic bag (not a grocery bag) and then a folded pillow case on top of that.. No bueno guys... Still too much of the screen unconvered

What is the science behind why everyone here thinks glass loses humidity? I think the heat and screen top are to blame. Going to find out soon. Here's an interesting solution I found that I'll try for myself..

Solution for Humidity Problems in a Glass Tank. (http://www.herpcenter.com/ball-pythons/33355-solution-humidity-problems-glass-tank.html)

KORBIN5895
06-18-13, 10:04 AM
Just put tin foil across your mesh then put the lamp directly on top.